UPS AND DOWNS IN CHINA.

Otago Witness, Issue 2523, 23 July 1902, Page 69

UPS AND DOWNS IN CHINA.

FAGtS FROM THE DIARY OF MR W. S. STRONG. Edited by Eldred J. D. Herctts, M.A., B.Sc.

(Maps, plans, etc., drawn by Mr Strong.)

VI— THE CRISIS AT CHUNG KING

Jnne 15. — About 5 this morning we passed a place called Shih-pao-tsah — "Precious Stone Castle'* — which consists of a conical hill rising about 200 ft above the river. On the top of this is a square rock about 250 ft x 50ft, rising up perpendicularly a little over 100 ft, to judge from the 13-storied pagoda built at the side of it. On the top of this rock is the temple, which almost completely covers the top. From where I now am the rock is seen to be leaning over to the north, and its narrow face reminds one of the tower at Pisa.

A very large down-streamer has ju«fc passed us. They are a curious sight when ■well-manned, as they need to be, for in a rapid of, say, 10 miles an hour, they have to get way on their boat through the water in order to have steering power over her. There are (see diagram) first, the big bow sweep, worked by 12 men ; second, 12 ordinary oars worked by

loat, an " Ea

the men standing erect, faces forward, four or five to each oar ; third, the che, very gigantic oars made from the cypress trunk, and worked by 10 men apiece ; fourth, four tremendous eculls (yaolu), worked alongside on an outrigger, and thus parallel with the boat, and not interfering with the "che." Each of these different gangs of oarsmen has its overseer or two, who hold sticks, which they at times lay on the men. The men's brown bodies are naked, though they wear a kind of turban on their head. They hare to keep time with their oars and yells to the short howl of the overseer. Each gang keeps its own time thus : longest time, by the che ; shorter by the sculls; shortest by the oais. The time of the sweep varies. The howling and yelling of over 100 men at such irregular times and all at once can mure easily be imagined than described. June K>. — I tad to open O. and X.'s box yesterday, and get out mosquito netting, which I had to make np all by myself. Now it is finished I can really congratulate myself upon my success in tailoring, and the biting plague had to keep outside last night. We have now left all the gorges, and have entered a lovely country, very hilly, but fertile. Here and there are rich bamboo groves, and amongst the undisturbed bush in some places you can see some gentleman's home situated quite picturesquely — for China, at least. During the last two days we have seen a mood deal of tpld-tyasiune, with methods

r etting a rest at

after their

montlis to-morrow since I left Wellington for China, and lam still on the move. I can scarcely expect to be at the journey's end for another two months. lam glad to find that the men are getting a rest at midday, when they cover the boat with the matting and have a good sleep after their meal. We Lave had it very calm the last week, and in here between the hills the heat is oppressive. The best time is in the morning, and I am now usually up a little after 4 for quiet meditations over the Word and sweet seasons of prayer. They have been blessed times indeed to my own soul, when I have also poured out my soul in prayer for many believers in Him Who answereth piayers that are in accordance with His will, and endorsed by His never-failing promises. The evenings are now wasted, and given up to mosquito fighting : they bite through thickh - lined calico fcocks and everything else you may happen to be clad in. Sly health is all that T could wish, and I am well able to spend the entire day in study. June 19 --About dinner time to-day the men sighted the foreign steamer, and got j quite excited over it, and I must confess J that we followed suit. We fired a salute, to which the steam whistle replied. A good number of foreigners were on board.. this I>eing the tnal trip of the first stearcnr by a company who purpose to reach Chen Tv very snou, and keep up a regular <?*?■■- vice on the upper Yang-tsi-Kiang. As » i*t »3 we couM «cc she hod haJ -*■

days 1 rain, and it was hard to behold the men on the track the whole day in their wet rag% and to know that they constitute their whole wardrobe, many of them not 6ven having a bit of quilt or rag to sleep on, but lying on the bare boards wet as they are. We have had several smaller mHiaps through the ri.pes being snapped on the rocks. I suppose all the ropes are getting pretty well worn out. On one occasion — a few days ago — we had to negotiate a very strong watei race ending in a direct fall of 3ft between two very large boulders. To enable us to climb this the towline was taxed to its utmost, and so were my nerves, when I looked on the 200 or 300 yards of spent rope and 60 men almost oir their faces. The boat moved an inch or so. but only now and then, making tl.e while a swing in the whirlpool below, the suction of which kept her back. Then the shout, "Ta chang!" — "Rope snapped !" — and we were hurled back. I looked aft, and wondered if it was possible indeed to be saved from a total wreck, with the boulders all around us. But in less time than it takes me to describe it, amidst shouts and screams of men and women, our faithful shui-wa-tsi (water boy) comes down the side, undressing as he runs, and in the angry water meets the rope thrown him from the boat. He looks aft, and sees what a crash i& imminent, and knows at once that unless he swims right across there can be no hope. Soon the rope is round a boulder, and now, will it hold? It seems almost impossible, but with careful hands the rope is handled or. board, and soon we find the stern of our junk just lightly touching the rock : the was well in Land, aud so it> , safe. Such dangeis are really daily occurrences, and bring one daily to God in praise and thanksgiving for saving mercies.

Chung-King, June 29, 1900.— Have arrived safely in this city, having come in blissful ignorance of the dangers that sui - rounded me on the latter part of my journen. Pnoi to teaching liere I knew nothing of the Peking tioubles, but they have made the river very unsafe, and many horrible things have been done by lawless robber :-. We hear of some very bold attempts successfully made against boats that pieceded us, and danger:- are brewing 1 hue too now. The two highest officials ol the city rau away, a^ i.-> .supposed, yeettrday. and are believed to be in retirement "•omewheie incognito for feai of coming tioubles. The whole foreign community here is astir, and anxious for new*. We do not know whether the Impeiial Post Office ih or not, nor how long it may he *o. The consul will piobubly stop me here, and not allow me to go any fait her till news becomes moie reaesuring.

I am thankful to say that I am in good health, better than I had dining the hist pait of my journey. lam greatly longing to go forward and reach my destination, of which, however, there seems very little hope. One is very glad to kr.ow that many prayers aie at this juncture going up on behalf of China, and also for Llod"^ people in this land. Many wild rumours aie afloat as to what is to happen, and tiuuble has already begun. At Unnan city, up the river horn here, all the mission stations aie looted, but no lives lost. All the friends are in the Yamen under protection of the magistrate. I journey th r ou!»h a country dir.,r aiii 1 wild. Yet is my heart by such s^eei. tlioughU hcguiled Of Him ol Whom I lean, niv strength, my &tay, I can forget the troubles c-f the \va>.

July 7. — Oui piesent trouble is on nccount" of tl.e soldieis having got to know of the defeat of the foieign troops in Peking. Being equipped with foieign guns, they are planning a night attack ujjpa. all the fweiimexa hire, jKhea ne may.

very primitive indeed. They wash out all the loose sand on the river bank, but the yield is infinitely small, and the}- only work at it when there is nothing else to do on the farm. The same plots are washed every other year, as they believe that the summer floods deposit* a little gold every year. The other theory is that gold rises up from below, or grows;, as they will have it ; but my belief is that if they used a little mercury they would probably clear it once and for ever.

A beggar-boy, black with dirt as a nigger, came alongside the boat at breakfast time begging, so I promised him some cash if he went into the river and washed himself clean. This he did, and really the whole boy appeared in a new colour. I watched and directed the proceeding, and saw that he was well washed ; but it took time.

Chung-Chon. — Arrived here at 11 a.m.. and have anchored opposite the city. Will probably be delayed a httle. It is three

journey thus far. and as there are no b'-g rapids on the remainder of her j'vinuy, she will be in Chung-King in less than 24 hours' steam — a distance which vu.'l take us a week.

June 20. — Arrived at Fu Cheo this morning, and moored above the town. The town is situated on tne left bank, and being built on the hillside we had it in full view. Several temples with green and yellow tiles shone out verj r bright I}-.1 }-. These buildings are in general the < rily well-built one?.

Juue 25. — We are now nearing Iho city of Chung-King, the end of this stage of our journey, and hope to be there to-moirow about dinner time. For the last five days the river has been constantly rising, and tiavelling has been difficult. Xew rapids are forming, and the water is covering the rocks, many of w hich are now only known by a whirlpool. The water is very swift, but, on the other hand, the back-eddies are stronger. We aie. however, in constant need of extra help in getting tip these rapid?, which also involve delays awaiting our turn to ascend. We had two

be taken nnawares and massacred. This cloud has hung over us for the last week, and now we aie to leave, the consul having ordered us out of town — to the coast, in fact. We have taken "a boat, which will be kept ready, should we have to leave suddenly ; but, really, we do not know which is saier — to stay or to go, for the river abounds with banditti and lawless people, who make their "living in troublous times by their piracy. We feel very anxious on account of all our friends mland, who will find it very difficult to get down safely. But for them our party would probably start for the coast soon, but they will need, our heip here in: getting boats, etc. We may have to send down tihe ladies, but I think -I must stay for the friends' sake. ' All the other missions and foreigners in general are getting ready to leave, only a few men starving behind to help others of their mission expected down. There is supposed "to be a mail down river every ' Monday, and as long as 1 am in this world and the postal communications not broken off. I will write by every mail. You probnbly will know far more than we do | ab:>ut affairs. [The above extract, with many others, has been kindly furnished by the author's friend, Captain" H. S. Blackburne, of Wellington.] July 14. — We are beginning to get used to this kind of living on a volcano, for another week has passed, ?nd we are still in this world, although at present the foreigners who still remain are very scat- [ tered, so that they will find it a pretty big ' order to kill the' lot in one night, as the original plan was. During the nights there are very few foreigners inside the trails, and the rioters would find it hard to know on which house to pick in order to get one. Those to be killed first are the British Consul, and then the French Consul. These two gentlemen keep lots of secret service men, some of whom are

actually employed in the Yamen, but for extra money are ready to sell their master twice over if possible. The Customs Commissionaire, on whom I called to-day, knows everything ti!a"t goes on in every yamen in town, and gets to know every secret telegram that comes to any of the mandarins. Being employed in the Imperial Customs Service, he deems it his duty to know everything, and keeps quite a company of spies. Thus, in a town like Chung-King, all Cabinet secrets are public property among the foreigners. It wae tlie Commissionaire of Customs who,

through his men, was watching the Tao Tai and Chiu Tai — the two highest officials in the town — who tried to abscond in disguise. When they were ready, he was ready also, and had told the Consuls here, so they were caught. Sunday Evening. — I have jtist had notice to say that to-night the riot ie to start. If it does — well, then, this letter will not

get to Wellington. I don't know if you can understand the feeling of living, as it were, on a mine, with the fuse already lighted, your only hope being that the fuse may by some means be quenched. Such, no doubt, is the state of several in this town. "Chance" — but no, there are no chances happening to Christians, aud in this I rest, and am satisfied. Hence while lying still on board a boat, which we have taken as a refuge (where I am now keeping watch), I am giving all my time to ihe study of Tibetan and Chinese. I have been on board here since last Saturday (the 7th), and we have moored just opposite the town on the other side of the river. I take my food with the boatmen, and am quite happy— Loping, however, and praying that the present strain may soon be ended, and that if it be possible I may . be able to continue my journey. We are ' lying under a high rocky bank, and on this side I have the whole force of the sun : for the last four days I have had it up to 109deg in the afternoon, with a tern-" perature of 90deg at 6 a.m. July 26, 1900. — We have had many uncomfortable scares lately, but nothing serious has happened, and if anything the town seems quieter. Yet that i» nothing to depend on. Only a few days ago, when a Frenchman was starting off the crowd got news of it, and, humanly speaking, it was only tie fear of his revolvers and guns that got him safely away from them. The quietness or otherwise of this city clp-

pends much, we feel, on the way matters shape at the provincial capital, Chen Tu. TLe Ciovernor-general lias mled with a pretty strong hand, aud i.s determined to do .bis best, but wheu it became known that the troubles at Peking would interfere with their Triennial Examinations, the gentry rose, and we are anxiously awaiting news. A' l foreign missionaries h;>ve been ordered off. but we have no news as to their_whereabuuts. They will, if safe, have to pass this place. At Kia Tuig, west from here, a riot started at the Baptist Mission* The crowd gathered, and began to pull down the wall, but the mandarins nipped their designs in time, and for two days and nights they themselves, with tlieli soldiers, watched both that mission, the C.1.M. . and the Presbyterian Mission. All the Yunnan missiunanes have had to leave for the coast, their stations, with houses and goods, being wiecked and looted. This trouble began with a raid on the Fiench railway engineer*. I have thought a great deal of going to India across Yunnan, in the event of being prevented fiom going to Tibet by this route, but this news practically blocks the way. What the end ultimately niay be it is veiy difficult to forecast. ' For tbe present I have offered to escoit a Mrs H. and Mrs M.. her nurse, down to I'Chang. but I an? leaving my tilings here, a*- I hope to return, and feel that I cannot beat a letreat till I am really pushed, as long as hand and mind nutv he needed in the service of refugees. Both women nnd children have been ordered to leave immediately, but as the langers en the river aie in one sense growing worse, few wives are prepaied to undertake the journey without their husbinds. In addition to other dangers, the river is in

full flood, and there aie few bouts prepared

to take the risk of travelling. With all ! these pros and cons for everything we dare

not choose for ourselves, but simply resti and pray for that Divine guidance that shall be given, and escape granted in due time.

I paid a call on one of the leading English traders here, Mr Arch. Little. It ia he who brought up the first steamer here, the Pioneer. TKough built expressly for this Upper Yang-tsi at a cost of £40,000, she is almost a failure, being scarcely powerful enough. The British Government have comandeered her to serve as a refuge, and she lies provisioned, and with all steam up. ready to start at a moment's notice. Thus are matters at present, but all in His hand Pray, pray. Chung Ching, July 26, 1900.— Am still living all alone in the -boa* with the Chinese, aud have my meals with them. They have no clock, and so they have their meals very irregularly. On fine days (i.e., when they can see the sun) we have breakfast between 7 and 8. dinner between 3.30 and 4.30, and tea about 9 ; but on dull daya they are sometimes two hours later. Once or "twice they have brought in my rice at 11 p.m. [The above is the last record to hand from Chung-King, but it seems that early in August Mr Strong was forced to beat a letreat down through the gorges to I-Chang, whence the next extract is penned. Of the doubtless exciting and perilous journey down no account is available, if indeed any was written, beyond an allusion to the s.s. Pioneer, above described, as having rescued him "in tha nick of time "' whilst en route. — E. H.]

(To be continued.)