ILLUSTRATED FASHIONS.

Otago Witness, Issue 2523, 23 July 1902, Page 67

ILLUSTRATED FASHIONS.

IXear Emmeline. — The evening gowns made- ' for this season's debutantes are of the softest and flimsiest materials, and are noteworthy by -reason <ot "feheir^ simple elegance. The fact, however, of their x exceeding frag-ility makes the prettiest evening toilettes an expensive, almost extravagant, item in the outlay incurred in introducing a young girl into society. The economical mother will, however, lessen the expense by providing -her daughter with one or two really good silk or satin underdresses, which can be used again and again with a fresh overdress oi lace or .net. Indeed, girls "who move in less exalted society •would find such a plan economical, as, with the aid of a dress stand, they can themselves renovate an old gown and make it as as new, even if their knowledge of dressmaking is not very extensive. Common sense and good taste, together with an over-

dress (with ready-made skirt and -material for bodice such as one can buy anywhere) are all that is required, and th« task will "be considerably lightened if some pretty model gown has been duly and carefully noted, and is imitated as faithfully as possible. It is always a «ood ■plan to spend a morning inspecting -the windows of the best -dressmaking establishment* before selecting a toilet of any nature, as .one, if observant, may j)ick up many little hints as to the tendency of

the modes, and. so have even a simple gown

rendered distinguished by those littie effec- • touches which one is so apt to overlook, and which go so far to make a successful tout ensemble. The prefcty ball gown sketched is of soft pale blue aißophane over a cream silk underdress. The toilet is trimmed w '.h gar-

lands of creamy roses shading U nalo j-irilv a little fine lace finishing the decolletage. There are quantities of -flowers of all sorts used this season for evening wear, arranged as berthes, chatelaines, and sprays, while some of the most charming sleeves are composed -entirely of chains of flower 3. The rose. especially the small banksia species, is the chief favourite, whether beoanse of its natural beauty, or because of the important position it will hold during the Coronation seaeon, it is difficult to say. A very beautiful ball gown of white esprit net had its edpre bordered with forget-me-nots, while loops of ribbon and small knots of the -flowers decorated the front of the bodice.

■One is never wearied of reiterating the charms and fascinations of la>:e. and it is used on all articles of dress profusely, sometimes different varieties being lalerniiugl'-'ti. There are many dainty lace slcirtt now 'Bold in the shops, ready to mount on slips for evening wear, some of which are charmingly embroidered -with raised leaves and flowers in silk, while others, again, are braided with 6ilk. The more inexpensive kinds of overdrcssea arc of d'espnt net decorated with numerous lines of satin ribbon about liv -wide. Silk gauze? printed with lovely designs -of flowers and foliage are much in vogue, while mousseline de soie and chiffon are employed in the construction of -many charming evening gowns.

Flowers are much worn in the coiffure this season, and a. pretty sample of this mode is shown in my sketch. Very artistic wreaths

oE artificial flowers so cunningly fashioned as to almost rival Nature, are sold for the hair, and are particularly becoming to a fresh young face. The fashion for twining chiffon in the hair is also very pretty, and •et off a certain stamp of face in a wonderfully becoming fashion. It only requires clever fingers and a study of the features and head to achieve success Of course, the more classic the features the better the -effect.

In the' r-ealms of drees one Df the most notable features is the revival of the oldfaahioned coloured pipings which were beloved by our mothers in their youth. Among other quaint fancies are rouleaux of satin in colours on white toilets, while satin riblions are also 'used in quantities round the bottom of slrirts, or as borderings to flounces. Catfhmere, especially in -white, is a material whose charms I fancy are Jiardly appreciated, and in oream or ivory waite it is particularly attractive. Its draping qualities are admirable, and its -wear almost endless. The full flowing skirt still .holds it* own, and ■prill continue to do so throughout all the summer season, "but there are many other varieties which "have much to Teeommend them. Among these are the skirt with a cloae-£tcing emplacement round tbe hips, lato w.hicli the tkift, ycopas i# §»fc. The- ful-

ness in such is set into j)leats, . gaagings, or volants. This is, indeed, quite one of ibe most chic skirts of the moment, and when, as illustrated, guipure lace covers the em- ■ •piecement and is continued into the lower part of the bodice, the effect is excellent, i

This mode will be much employed for cotton or batiste dresses, as these lend themselves kindly to the necessary pleating. In light materials also, favour is found for the exploiting of the skirt decorated at the hem with triple flounces, the edges of which are generally finished by narrow ribbon or lace edging. The skirt with the shaped volants, one over the other, is popular for cloth costumes. Some venturesome votaries of fashion are having their more elaborate toilets flounced up to the waist with tiny flounces some *in or sin deep, on the edges of which narrow bebe ribbon is run. These are mostly employed en taffetas or foulard gowns reserved for fetes or garden parties. — Yours truly.

COQUETTE