ILLUSTRATED FASHIONS.

Otago Witness, Issue 2499, 5 February 1902, Page 63

ILLUSTRATED FASHIONS.

Dear Emmeline, — The ostrich feather, which only returned to fashionable favour a few years ago, is now everywhere to be encountered in the latest creations in the world of millinery. Whether adorning the picture hafc of velvet or appearing in single beauty on the Marquise hat it is equally welcome. The erase for ostrich feathers is indeed greater this season than last. There i» a* new method of curling the feathers which greatly adds to their already acknow-' ledged beauty. Happy, indeed, are the possessors of long, full, curling plumes, as these can be used again and again, and can. transform, a really cheap and inexpensive hat into one which looks well worth three or four guineas. It is advisable even- for the igixl with quite a small dress allowance that she should possess at least one really good hat, last year's model with a few renovating touches doing/ duty on unimportant occasions. The English girls have of late greatly improved in. the way they arrange their hats on their heads, thereby emulating the example of their sisters across the Channel, and giving an air altogether chic to even the most severe pieces of millinery in a fashion which has hitherto been beyond the "ingenuity of- anyone but a Frenchwoman. Feathers of every kind are very fashionable and sometimes whole birds are used for

trimming. There are many people who oppose this fashion on the grounds of unnecessary cruelty, but it is asserted on the other side that the plumage employed by the milliners is not that of real but of manufactured birds — the feathers of the farmyard inhabitants and the game supplied to the market during the shooting season being all used for this purpose. Indeed, some of the birds supplied for millinery purposes demonstrate this fact most glaringly, as they evidently belong to a species which has yet to be discovered. The smart little hat depicted is of white felt, the brim draped with a scarf of old Mechlin lace caught at intervals with pretty little buckles of an ornate description, while a black and white bird is apparently perched on the crown and on the point of winging its way elsewhere. The shape in which Panamas captured our affection in summer is now being reproduced for cold weather in a fine silk felt, and is admirable for driving, cycling, and country wear. The all-fur hat has ousted the fur toque from its wonted popularity, although it is really hard to determine the line where a toque differs from a email hat. One of the prettiest hats I have seen lately was tricorne, a lovely lace scarf being wound round the crown, the ends being left to fall upon the hair behind. Most of the newest models show either a bow of lace or velvet drooping over the hair at the back.

In Paris the hair is now mostly worn low on the neck, but many of us do not_ find such a style becoming, and remain faithful to our coiffures dressed high on the crown of the head, claiming that it adds height

and dignity. The fur hafc or toque cannot be termed hygienic, as it is weighty and presses heavily on the hair. The latest style* of coiffure dressed low on the neck for the evening is set forth iD the illustration. To my mind it is a style quite unsuited for day and street wear, for the Jiair necessarily rubs against the dress and gets untidy at once. The life of the bloose shows no sign of decay, and, indeed, it seemingly is possessed of the secret of eternal youth, as with each day it increases in smartnes3 and beauty, and there are no traces to be observed of the extinction predicted some time ago for this most useful item of dress. For shirt i>louses very charming printed flannels are offered to us this season, showing wide and narrow stripes and artistically vague checks in all colours and harmonious tones. _With the flannel of Pompadour pattern a simple style of making it up should be selected, and, indeed, the most chic specimens show simply manifold tuckings, and possibly a little lace insertion. The neck should be finished off by a dainty cravat of black or harmoniously tinted satin, fhere are some bewitching samples in crepe de Chine in delicate pinks and blues, tender greens, and every imaginable tone of mauve. Others •gain are of a fragile and diaphanous gauze, and require careful handling; while in most AsUaces ifee £»<*§ Si iiw cravat aro finished

by plain hem-stitched borders. The charming shirt blouse depicted is of printed flannel, and is liberally tucked, while the neck is completed by one of the most fashionable stock cravats. Amongst this season's novelties in the

way of materials are the many styles of rough hairy-surfaced material, which, are somehow particularly suited to the figure of an Englishwoman, the French preferring smooth material? rrirh a dressed surface.

ripes appear among flannels and friezes, and have a considerable vogue, for they certainly make a srout woman look thinner and taller unless she unwisely invests in a broad stripe. A very smart toilette I saw recently was of grey zjbeline with, steel buttons, worn wth a chinchilla toque, necklet, and muff. Each of these latter items had somewhere or other in its construction a touch of good lace. The result set off to advantage the slim figure and rosy countenance of the wearer. Silver buttons are much in evidence on gowns of this style. — Yours truly,

COQUETTE.