ILLUSTRATED FASHIONS.

Otago Witness, Issue 2471, 24 July 1901, Page 69

ILLUSTRATED FASHIONS.

Dear Emmeline, — Madame la Mode has displayed a truly wonde v fnl fidelity to the modes announced some months ago, and so far the fa3hioup for summer leir.ain as they were with but few alterations, and these are so slight as to be only apparent to the initiated. Skirts continue to fit tightly at the top, while they are fuller and longer, if possible, and, clinging to the upper part of the figure, flow lound the feet in a profusion of frills and flounces. Such a style is eminently suited to show to advantage the curves and graces' of a really good figure, but is apt to prove rather ungraceful when worn by a stout and portly matron. It also requires considerable skill on the part of the modiste to ensure the correct liung jf the skirt, as if the fulness is not correctly arranged the result is ciuinsy. In light materials the tucked skirt still holds its own, but is altogether avoided when anywoollen materials are employed, as experience has proved to most women that only a weighty and unmanageable garment is evolved. Though much black and white will be worn throughout the season, there is a general growing inclination towards delicate mauves and soft greys, while for those of 4i* who do not presume to be included in Court circles, where mourning is still a necessity, tl:eive are -the ijayer colours in all ti.eir manifold shades and tones, intermingled with contrasting materials or softened by a

trimming of lace. One of the most fashionable and, at the same time, becoming colours — mare especially to brunettes — is of a curious shade of pinkish red, a mixture of :omato and squashed strawberry, and the stylish gown depicted in my first sketch is of & rough-surfaced frieze of this particular tone. For ordinary everyday weai these rongh materials will be found eminently serviceable, but it -should be borne in mind that no elaborateness of style should be selected for the skirt, and that no trimming is correct, save any amount of stitchery or a. few lines of braid. Any dressy effect must be confined to J>e coatee, as all such costumes are for the most part composed of a plain skirt and a well -cut bolero with fanciful revers. In this instance, a <*imming of a deeper shade of red velvet is employed, outlined with narrow gold cord, the buttons being likewise gold. Lace applique'and ribbon inter-threading promise- to be much used in connection with summer toilets, and black lace sprays and flowers on a white background, or vice versa, are •exceedingly effective. Ribbons of all kinds are much in evidence, whether the jream or black velvet bebe ribbon used for interthreading, or the broad variety, printed in delicate floral designs, which constitutes tfce long sashes which give a finishing touch to co many airy summer gownp. The long

ends of these ribbon sashes finish generally in a handsome "tag" or a golden tassel.

The fashionable bolero or Russian, blouse of black silk or satin seem 3to be daily and hourly advancing in popularity, and a very pretty sample of this kind of outdoor garment is to be found in my illustration, worn with a frieze skirt in eau de ml trimmed with black braid and stitching, and made with -a shaped flounce at the feet. The coatee is, as I said, black and of a dull soft eatJn, the sleeves being tucked from shoulder tf wrist, where an unde» sleeve of accor-dion-pleated chiffon ponches, and terminates in a frill which falls over the hands. The fanciful collar is covered with yellowish cream lace, and a knot and chou of black accordion-pleated ohifEon finish the neck. Such a toilet is exceedingly useful, ac it is dr-essy and yet quiet, and «ither effect can be further emphasised -by the toque or hat which accompanies it. In this instance an eau de nil chiffon toque trimmed in front by a pink rose and foliage is worn, but Wack could be substituted with •almost as good an effect.- Hats nowadays are a law irate themselves, being" so varied in style, and as long as tfhey are becoming to the wearer it is all ihat is desired. The picturesque note still prevails in millinery, and the newest hats are trimmed both outside and in with flowers. The toque which projects over the face in front, oftd. is bent

down over the hair at the back, is considered most chic, and certainly has a smartness all its own. The pretty model in my last sketch is made of fanciful straw of a lacelike pattern, the brim bordered with a frill of lace, while the crown is >f drawn eau de nil silk--'f the word :-rown may be so ap-

plied — as it is almost flat in shape. In front a cluster of bright red berries are grasped, while the leqnisite touch of black appears in the bow of black velvet which finishes the back and the knot on the bandeau at the left side, which givos a slightly upward tilt. Very lovely also are the lace toques whose sole trimming consists of a black velvet bow coquettishly arranged. For morning wear the straw hats with a rather high crown, banded with navy blue or black eilk, spotted with white and tied in a smart bow in front, &re particularly imart, the brim dipping over the face in front, while it curves upwards at the tdde=, only to be again and more deeply depressed at the back.— Yours tTOIy ' COQUETTE.