OUR YORKSHIRE LETTER.

Otago Witness, Issue 2467, 26 June 1901, Page 8

OUR YORKSHIRE LETTER.

(Troi£ Oue Special Cobsespoxdent.) BRADFOED, April 26. THE FLEECE OF THE ANGORA GOAT.

History fails to record the date when goat hair wa-< firat used as a textile material; it 3 use in the Far East extends back to the remotest periods. Mohair, the hair of the Angora, or Cashmere, domestic goat, became known to Western Europe about the jear 1655. It was first imported into England ia 1820. Until that time its distribution through the \arious countries was greatly limited, owing to the severe lestrictions placed upon its exportation by the Turkish Government, which had entire control of the production, Angora, the home of the goat, being a province of Asiatic Turkey, which was governed by European Turkey.

The first importations into England consisted of a few bales only, which were sold at the small price of lOd per Ib. It was an. article which was not appreciated, the textile manufacturers not knowing how to work it, and having no piactical use for it. In 1836 Titus Salt, the Bradford woollen manufacturer, having his attention called to mohair, purchased a binall lot for the purpose of experimenting with it. He soon discovered that it was a valuable material, and with the assistance of a bank which he let into the secret, he bought all the stock there was in the market, and contracted for all that came in for the next five years. He used it for dress goods, and in making lustrous stuffs. In those days lustre was a desiiable feature in all materials used for clothing, both for men and women. Halt observed the utmost secrecy in l-egard t> his use of mohair, and it was commonly supposed for a long time by his inquisitive and prying competitors that he was obtaining the lustrous effects by the use of silk and China glass. In fact, he bought largely of both these material?, which he had shipped to his factory to assist in the delusion his competitors were under. Salt made a large fortune oui of his discovery before his secret became public. Titus Salt was the pioneer in introducing alpaca as a textile material, and for this lie was knighted by the Crown. His memory has been perpetuated by a statue, which was erected by the manufacturers of Bradford. The great impetus given' to the trade in mohair by Salt's discovery of its value as t. material suitable for textile purposes, thereby greatly enhancing its commercial value, stimulated efforts towards acclimatising the goats in other places, and large number* were carried to vai ious countries. In 1849 the first importation of the goat was made to America. Since then large numbero have been taken in, ai d they are now widely distributed amonrj the various State«. The largest flocks aie in Toxas and California, ai-d there ace also flocks of considerable M-ze in Virginia. The goat is a Lrudy animal, but thrives best m a dry climate and among ihe hills and forests. The production of mohair in "America amounts to about 1.000,0001b annually. The Asiatic mohair trada is controlled at Constantinople, and England obtains the greater bulk of her hair from this source, though large quantities aie imported from South Africa. Angora mohair is a fine, soft, woolly hair of a brilliant white, with a btaiile fiom 7in to Bin in length. It is elaotie, and why, but possesses none of the felting qualities of wool. Under the microscope it presents a smooth, even surface, and its shape is that of an elongated cone, a gradual tapering to a point. Its biilliant lustre is one of its principal f calmer. It has great durability, and its elasticity and lustre peeulirrly fit it for working into long-piled fabrics. It-- u--e is confined principally, at the uresent day, to dress quods, plush, and

biaids. It is also used in imitation furs, such as sealskin, beaver, otter, and chinchilla. It has been largely uped in tbess goods, in bringing out lustrous effects. It has a large variety of uses, and its field would be largely mci eased were it not for the difficulty in working it. It has a peculiar nature which is hard to control, except by those who have learned its secret. It must be handled tenderly both zu the preparation for spinning and in the spinning. Tn working it, the operator must bear in mind that haste makes waste ; he must make speed slo\>ly. It quickly generates electricity, and if care is not taken the fibres will act like electrified eels, and squirm and twibt until they separate from esch other. WOOL MARKET— WAITING OPENING OF SALES. The amount of business doing in this market this week has been veiy small. The general disposition of purchasers is to await the London sales, and see what is the course of event* there. They still believe that the firmer attitude adopted by topr.jiikers recently will nul be justified; but, on the other hand, topmakers are to-day pointing to the upward tendency at Antwerp, and assert with confidence that there will be no fall in values. Meanwhile a wiiiting policy is adopted, and transactions are exceedingly small. The price asked fox' a good 60 s top to-day is between 19^d and 19^d, and the former figure has been paid, though there is no doubt that a good customer could operate on the basis of 19d. The finest classes of crossbreds are not in so good a position as had been anticipated, and the medium torts are neglected, and, with no prospect of immediate improvement, English wool too is dull, and mohair quiet. There is no marked change to record in the yam department. The spinners of the lower counts of yarns are badly off for work, but those in the botany trade are keeping iheii machinery pretty well employed. The amount of new business available is small on the whole, and the offers made by export merchants are low. Mohair apinners, also, are quiet. The improvement in the merchanting trade is maintained, though the volume of business is a long way from satisfactory.