ILLUSTRATED FASHIONS.

Otago Witness, Issue 2456, 10 April 1901, Page 61

ILLUSTRATED FASHIONS.

Dear Emmeline, — The arrangement of the coiffure is a point to which we Englishwomen do not as a rule attach sufficient importance, although our sisters across the Channel have both by example and precept done all that 13 possible to demonstrate how essential it is to the success of the tout-ensemble cf the toilette to be bien coiffe. There has been little or no variance in the style of hair-dressing for the past few months, in epite of an attempt to introduce the coil or knot at the nape of the neoV. This mode, however, is only becoming to a very few faces, so the majority still continue to simply wave the hair and draw it up to the top of the head, where it is arranged in a small knot or twist. In my illustration you will find sketched a simple style with the hair divided at one side and brought in a wave across the forehead, thereby absolutely precluding all possibility of exploiting a fringe. It is as well to call into requisition the services of a semi-cir-cular frame to allow the hair to have the

necessary amount of fulness at the back of the head. With the hair nicely arranged in a few deep pronounced undulations, the «ntire coiffure carefully covered by a fine fringe net, which, by the way, must be carefully secured by some fine hairpins and not allowed to float away from the head in an ■untidy fashion, any hat will appear to much greater advantage than when carelessly placed on a badly-dre>sed coiffure. lam sure all of us number among the list of our acquaintances at least one woman who, in spite of being possessed of the most _ex.pensive hats and toque?, always contrives to appear dowdy. In nine cases out of tea this will be found the result of an unbecoming style of dressing the hair. Even the plainest" face will have its roughness of feature vastly eoftenod by being framed in pretty and nicely-arranged hair. Dull hair will be found to improve greatly in lustre if subjected to half an hour's steady brushing; night and morning by a long-bristled" brush, and the addition occasionally of a little brilliantine of the best quality. If »ny tendency to come out or become broken is evinced the ends of the hair should be cut and singed. , Blouses in all styles are much to the fore, and even figure for outdoor wear expressed in velvet or fur. The accompanying 1 sketch illustrates a velvet Russian blouse jacket trimmed with fur. This is quite the

garment of the hour and can be had in a variety of forms, but the very newest are slightly pouched all round, though not sufficiently so to produce a clumsy effect. Nothing could be more becoming to a slender figure, as the fulness above has the effect of reducing the apparent size of the waist. A very pretty costume worn by a bride as her going-away dress was of a warm brightred serge, the' coat made in the form of a Russian blou&e jacket and so arranged as to be able to be worn open to show the revers lined with oyster-white satin. It was trimmed with" bands pf sable, and a handsome cable necklet, cuffs, muff, and toque completed a most chio toilette. For dressy street costumes the favourite tones this season are seal or golden brown, cafe au lait ecru, grey and crimson. The pale tones are usually brightened by an effective touch of colour in the muff or toque or by trimmings of fur. The intermingling of gold in the form of braidings upon our winter dress schemes has introduced a cheerful element much to be applauded, and a black costume with revers arid collar of gold braid looks exceedingly emart. There is, however, one drawback to gold as a trimming, and that is the undeniable faot that fog and rain tarnish in a comparatively short time. Therefore it poseibly more to be recommended is a bright red, the correct «hade verging on that of a ripe tomato, which when used to brighten up a black dress has an admirable effect. My sketch shows a hat of this colour carried out in velvet and eilk. It must be remembered that for a pale woman a red hat or one trimmed with red is highly becoming, aa it enhances the complexion, a touchy of black somewhere beneath the brim adding *4 its attractjvenegs, A. dark-haired ipmgiu

however pale, would a' ~- ■• at hpr be^t gowned in blark with a h * - tomato reel. The latest plippcrs arc o, "lack or coloured velvet to match the costume, with pa-to or gold buckles, and are \ery no\el and dainty. Among the most attractive deo.'rations for the neck just introduced is Us long tie made out of three-quarter inoh black vchet, which is passed twice round the throat, and knotted in front, the ends being finished

with small gold tassels. There are a hundred and one pretty accessories of dress which in their own way repay careful study, as, for instance, the wonderfully dainty vests of lace, chiffon, or similarly diaphanous materials which often appear in conjunction with the most luxurious fur coats. Some of the swathed cravats arc most becoming, and appear at their best when made in soft silk, crepe-de-chine, or panne.' Very fashionable still is the large bow of tulle or net which, when adjusted by the skilful and dainty fingers of a Frenchwoman, forms such a coquettish and chic item of the toilette as to be irresistible. — Yours truly.

COQUETTE