ILLUSTRATED FASHIONS.

Otago Witness, Issue 2451, 6 March 1901, Page 61

ILLUSTRATED FASHIONS.

LONDON, December 26.

Dear Emmeline, — Christmas, with its motto of "Peace and Goodwill," resolves itself into a season when the outward expression of these sentiments finds relief in a continuous succession, of dinners, dances, and every variety of social entertainment which can be devised to further the enjoyment of both young and old. With a constant stream of gaieties to be encountered, the contents of our wardrobes are j. matter of much importance, especially when ways and means have to be considered and the choice of a new evening frock is a matter of deep consideration. Fortunately for most of us, Madame La Mode is kindly disposed even towards the comparatively impecunious girl who has wasted her substance in the riotous purchase of gifts for her nearest and dearest, leaving herself with a very narrow margin for the replenishing of her evening toilets. There is probably among these an old silk or satin dress rather the worte for wear. This must not be deemed worthless, but rather as a treasure, and if it is not very much stained it may be possible with soap and water, or a little ammonia, to do all that is required at home, and so avoid the expense of a yieit to the cleaner ; but tbis must be a matter of due and careful consideration. If

the owner of such a gown has a slender and graceful figure, combined with a pleasing plumpness of neck and shoulders, I should advise her to evolve a gown a l'Empire such_ as is here depicted. Carefully unpick all trimming off the bodice of the under-dress, and leave it as severely plain and tight-fitting as possible. Over this arrange a drapery of lace (for preference), embroidered net or any semi-transparent material, allowing it to fall from the bust in soft folds to the feet. A sash of pale green chiffon is draped •across the figure, and, after being loosely knotted, falls in ends finished by a gold and green fringe. A small chemisette of embroidered net or lace is arranged above this, while long sleeves to match come well down over the hands.

Diaphanous fabrics of every kind are the most popular, and crepe-de-chine, voile, tulle, net, and chiffon are used witb great success over a silk or satin foundation. Silk French lawn is also another very charming dress material, and can be made up with or without a coloured silk lining. Very pretty and not very expensive are the spotted, embroidered, or plain muslin robes, which have the dual advantage of looking equally pretty as a summer or afternoon toilet. I think an exceedingly sensible plan is to have the evening bodice very simply made, so that by the addition of a lace slip with long sleeves the gown can be worn on less festive occasions when a decollete bodice would be out of place, and will be of use when worn out of doors. The corsage

displaying a semi-transparent yoke and sleeves is a very fashionable mode this season, and undoubtedly has many good points to recommend it. The charming muslin gown depicted is formed of fine spotted muslin over an under-dress of bright yellow silk, a yellow chiffon sash encircling the waist. A very chic effect is produced by the lines of black velvet ribbon which extend down all the seams of the skirt, apparently held in place by the small buckles of cut steel. A piece of black chiffon should be tied coquettishly round the throat wh^n the gown is worn as

a full-dress toilet, but when the lace chemisette and sleeves are adapted, the essential touch of black is evinced in narrow black velvet ribbon, which is threaded in and out of the pattern of the lace, emphasising particularly the line of throat.

The social round of dinners, dances, etc., which is the programme of events Fate appoints to most mortals just now, necessitates the possession of at least one nice evening cloak, and, though these wraps have of late years become such elaborate and muchtrimmed articles of dress, they can be quite easily manufactured at home without the amateur dressmaker confessing to puzzledom verging on the borders of distraction. A very pretty, and at the same time useful, evening cloak is shown in this illustration, and

owing to the fact that it is only semi-fitting the task of its formation is not so formidable. Black satin is the material selected, while the whole garment is carefully lined with pink quilted satin, such as can be readily purchased for a little more than a shilling a yard. The chief feature of the garment is the high collar, which when thrown open forms revers likewise. — Yours truly, COQUETTE.