ILLUSTRATED FASHIONS.

Otago Witness, 5 December 1900, Page 61

ILLUSTRATED FASHIONS.

Dear Emmeline, — We have, so far as sartorial matters are concerned, reached the transition stage when the fragile muslins and laces of summer have lost their wonted freshness, and are becoming insufficient for the tinge of chilly autumn which pervades the air, while we hesitate to cloth ourselves in weightier and more practical, but far less fascinating garments. Most of the departments dominated by the whims of Madame La Mode are now almost at a standstill waiting for the production of the early autumn fashions, but in that section devoted to the evolution of the "tailor-made" pure and simple, considerable activity is being evinced. I give 'a sketch of a very desirable woollen gown of this class, the original of which was caried out in hedge-sparrow blue homespun, strapped with itself, outlined and stitched- in black. The skirt, you will observe, does not sweep its folds along the ground, but is cut to clear the surface, thereby permitting its owner a freedom of movement debarred to those who prefer the trained skirt. The "gay Parisiennes" have shown of late a tendency to greatly abbreviate the length of their walking garments,' and in some instances have let their zeal in this respect carry them to the extent of curtailing' the length of their skirts to their ankles, a style, our American

sisters long since determined, particularly well suited to the display of a prettily-turned foot and ankle. However, the trailing skirt is likely to continue to rank highly in the uffeetions of many women, especially those of small stature, as it most undoubtedly possesses the qualification of in.crea.sing the apparent height. As the season advances a more pronounced tendency will be practically displayed towards the really much more useful walking skirt, which clears the ground and allows its wearer the use of her hands for other purposes than that of combatting with voluminous folds and protecting them from contact with dust or miid. The bach of such a skirt is usually set into .a box pleat or finished by a series of tiny tucks stitched down for about^l2in. i-set me, however, recommend the former mode to the home dressmaker, as it allows of the placket-hole and pocket being neatly concealed from- view under the- overlapping fold at the right side — a highly advantageous point, as a gaping pocket or semi-visible placket-hole will spoil the effect of the best-hung skirt. These facts are apt to be overlooked by the amateur worker, whose aim should be a scrupulous neatness in finishing XS all such details.

For an out-door wrap during the transition period, nothing will be found so thoroughly useful as a three-quarter length covert coat, or a cape such as is here depicted, which can be easily flung on, and possesses a hood which will be found a great comfort during a journey by sea or land. To sport-

ing women whose tastes incline to golfing or shoting, such a wrap is invaluable, and might almost be termed a necessity. The smartest samples of these cape's are expressed in reversible tweed 01* tartan-, and the benefit derived from such a garment cannot be too highly estimated. Another style boasts a loose-fitting portion like a sleeveless coat, a cape hanging after the fashion of angel sleeves over the arms, and being attached to the shoulder seams and high collar. Such

a cape is usually made of tartan, the clan to which it pertains being a detail insignificant in respect to the fascinations of the colours blended together. Nearly all the ladies' tailors are having the three-quarter coat (whose possibilities I cannot impress upon you too v/armly) fashioned with large revers and collar, afterwards, as the season advances, to be covered with fur, which, they consider, breaks the severity of the long lines, but for myself I confess to a weakness for the coat of mannish cut as pre-eminently smart and chic. These can also be obtained in waterproof cloth, an even more serviceable variety. My sketch shows the smartest sample of autumn millinery; as yet displayed for our edification, and it is one which, if I mis-

take not, will continue to advance in our affections as time goes on. The marqxxise hat is a three (or four) cornered affair which, ■worn at the inclination of an angle, carries the utmost expression of style and grace. In this instance it is formed of black crinoline trimmed with a narrow ruche at the edge of the brim of black tulle. A chou of coloured silk is arranged at one side, while the natural coloured iving gives an additional air of smartness to the toutensernble. There is a picturesqueness about this hat which will en&ure its futtire success. — Yours truly,

COQUETTE,