ILLUSTRATED FASHIONS.

Otago Witness, Issue 2437, 28 November 1900, Page 61

ILLUSTRATED FASHIONS.

Dear Emmeline,— Just at this particular season of the year affairs in the world of dress are somewhat at a standstill, as few people cars ttrindulge in the luxury of new frocks, and content themselves with the smartening up of those they already possess. This is not a matter of much difficulty, as there are nowadays so many pretty adjuncts of dress which can be varied to suit circumstances, and easily renewed at little cost. "Among such are the pretty chemisettes of silk and lace insertion, and those collars of lace or ambroidered lawn which can be worn ■with excellent effect in conjunction with a simple gown. Quite among the most charming features introduced this season are the picturesque fichus that have made a pleasing addition to the many artistic trifles, and have an echo of the older times which harmonises perfectly with elbow sleeves and a large l>lack hatofthe "picture" order. There has been a distinct attempt to bring in those sleeves which stop short at the elbow, but to my mind there is something incongruous in covering up the prettiest part of bhe arm (which is /taidou'bteclly that between the shoulder and the elbbw) and leaving exposed the remainder, whichr is rarely perfect enough to court at-

tention. It is a very much better plan to fill in the intervening space between the elbow and -wrist with a puffed undersleeve of lace after the style of those adopted by our grandmothers. This mode, you will observe, is adopted in my illustration, wherein a charming bodice is set forth. The material _ employed in this instance -was rosecoloured foulard, and one, if" not the most admirable point in its construction is the fichu of lace, which is draped across 'the back and shoulders, and is knotted on either side of the front, whence it falls in two long ends a short way below the waist. The bodice, which was not a new one, had got slightly faded across the upper part of the figure and rubbed at* the wrists, and after giving the matter due consideration this was' the plan hit upon by its ingenious ownei to conceal all deficiencies, the result Ijeing such a compete success as to warrant its portrayal here. The neck is cut slightly square and trimmed across the front by a border, of lace insertion through which two rows of narrow black velvet ribbon have been run.' It would be a very simple matter to vary the appearance of such a bodice by replacing 'the fichu with a sleeveless zouave of lace, held in place by a softly -knotted chiffon tie. Indeed the charms of, such' a toilette so fascinate me I cannot resist giving expression to my ideas in sketch, by the side of which will likewise be seen a pretty collar, which would be found exceedingly useful over 4 a coat, and can be speedily manufactured out •of. Jaalf a jard of wide muslin and a yard of

prettily-patterned lace,-._ Among some of the newest decorations for the completion of our toilettes are dainty ruffles of chiffon stitched with coloured chenille. The long streamers of chenille which were a short while ago considered le dernier cri for the further adornment of these ruffles are now regarded as altogether demode, their place being occupied 'by equally long cords of accordeonpleated chiffon or net to match the ruffle 'itself,, confined it interval? 'by a twist of chenille matching that employed^ a.tjihe throat. /£bes€ ruffles 1 are', however, undeniably expensive, and only within the reach >f those possessed of a liberal dress allowance, or the girl" whose clever -fingers compete successfully with and altogfcther overcome the deficiencies likely to be occasioned by a rather ..limited income. In spite of the undeniable charm of these dainty ruffles,' they do not, in my opinion, come up to the exquisite ostrich feather "boa, which in black, white, or grey forms the happiest and most becoming adjunct of dress, But in the acquisition of such the question of expense is IHjoia forced on pns'g attention, aixd in this

matter the home vporkei is altogethei at a discount. I show 'here aii exceedingly useful 'hat which could be worn far into the autumn, and yet not disgrace its owner. It is formed

of burnt straw, the brim turning up in front, but more especially at one side, while the rather high crown is swathed with folds -of dull red silk of a shade at once rich and unobtrusive, while two quills add greatly to its I smartness and general chic effect. The curling quills are spotted with black chenille, and, whether for travelling or every-day wear, a hat like this will prove an undoubted source of satisfaction to its wearer. A very smart style of headgear which is almost as smart as the one I have just described consists of coarse fancy traw of a deep shade of burnt straw, tilie brim being exceedingly depressed at the back, a broad band of black velvet encircling the crown, tying in a large Louis bow, occasionally further decorated by a chaste buckle of dull steel. — Yours truly, COQUETTE.