ILLUSTRATED FASHIONS.

Otago Witness, Issue 2397, 8 February 1900, Page 56

ILLUSTRATED FASHIONS.

Dear Emmeline, — I daresay if I begin to talk to you once more about the pleated skirt, you will declare that I ha\ r e had no other idea for the last three weeks, but the truth is it is long since Dame Fashion has shown us such, a remarkable change of front. I suppose that the reason is Aye are inevitably drawn to extremes, and never since days long past have Are worn such remarkably tight skirts as during the past year. The result is natural, the pendulum has swung to the other limit, and the newest skirts are now knife-pleated toAvards the knees, falling in soft folds around the feet. And now to speak of the trend of fashion in. general. Of skirts I have spoken; as for bodices many are pleated upwards to match the pleated skirts. The Directoire style, more especially relating to revers and hats, still holds its oAvn. The bolero form of bodice is very popular, and little .short outdoor coats are made after this style, often spade-fronted. Tn Paris they are Avearine; the demi-long paletot with enthusiasm ; in London it is only slowly gaining faA'our. It is usually made of thin box-cloth, often fawn, but sometimes in brown, A'iolet, or black. The form A'aries in its details as in its trimmings ; Aye shall sco il Avilh a seam in the middle of the back, slightly widening towards the base, with three little eppns upon the shoulders*. Again, it will bear a high collar, with prettily-trimmed reA'prs in front, fastening oA'er double-breasted. At other times it will be made quite en sac, either elaborately braided or strapped, but, however plain it is outside, it is always lined with a rich, soft silk or brocaded satin. My picture shoAA r s you a little lady Avhose General attire is suggestive of Madame la Mode's latest whim?. You Avill notice thai)

her skirt is made, as it were, in. four large box-pleats, the tunic, scolloped and strapped, falling o\cr an underskirt which is broadly lucked. I pay broadly tucked, but, of course, j-on will understand that in reality the tucks are formed by strips of material cut on the crossi, doubled and machined on to the foundation, each slightly overlapping the other. This gives a perfect hang, which, Avith real lucks, you could not aehieA^e. The back of this skirt is an example of the latest mode — namely, falling in. one box-pleat. The material is of satin olofcli in the favourite "biua-

modore " colour. Her coat, and this is surely very chic, is of dark-brown velvet, stitched in undulating lines with white silk. The back and sides fit closely to the waist, the loose fronts meeting and finishing in a deop point, fastening with small cut steel buttons.^ At the neck there is a little fresh ?nd fufcsy jabot of lace, without which no coptume is to-day considered correct. A sable bop t is worn, but blue and white fox are equally fashionable. The hat is of plain brown felt, rather lighter in shade than the skirt, banded with brown velvet, through which a steel buckle is passed, oncl bearing at the side two large dark brown feather?. Furs are very lovely this year, the little fur coats especiallj- so. These are, perhaps, nicest in Persian lamb, and quite nice, but not so nice, in caracul. Sealskin is slightly demode.

Muffs promise to be much worn, and will be large, more particularly those that are entirely of fur. Other muffs will be made to match accompanying toques, of fur and velvet, with sometimes a little lace. I have drawn you four little examples of muffs that can be made out of odds and ends of fur and velvet, and yet which will be pretty and comfortable to wear. These are not very difficult to make : it is easy to tack up a, roll of cotton wool into the required size and shape and cover it as fancy dictates. Number one is of black velvet, bound with chinchilla,, a bunch of violets at either corner, and a little purse of velvet stitched on outside. It is lined with violet satin. Number two is of sealskin, with silver initials, the frills of brown satin. Number three is of mink, with brown velvetshaped frills and a knot of lace behind the bunch of violets, whilst the remaining muff bears only one side of fur, the other being velvet, therefore a very small piece would come in useful with satin or velvet frills, and a large velvet bow clasped by a steel buckle. Very pretty are the crepe-de-chine pcarves -with fringed ends upon which Fashion has lately smiled. These are tied round the neck, and allowed to fall in long "pans" or ends to the waist where they are sometimes caught again. These soft silken scarves are especially .usefui to wear with coats that show a little opening at the neck, as a bow can be tied there, whilst the ends form a waistcoat, and a boa, can be worn over all . - No dress is considered complete without lace about it somewhere, and on the evening dress up to date it is used by the mile. Lace ap-

pliques are being much sold, and on the evening gown sketched here you see black chantilly lace applique displayed to great advantage. The material is blue Liberty satin. The plain lace sleeves arc unlined. The skirt is edged with a. double row of velvet ribbon, and you will see the appliqued lace is pointed in front, whilst just above the points another band runs round to tho back, lipping low into the short train. The waist is smartly tied with black velvet, and I should add tho skirt fails into a single box-pleat, tho width of your hand, at the back.— Yourd truly, COQUETTE.