ILLUSTRATED FASHIONS.

Otago Witness, Issue 2394, 18 January 1900, Page 59

ILLUSTRATED FASHIONS.

Dear Emmeline, — "How is the newest skirt made?" is the question that is agitating most feminine minds just now, and in truth the only answer is : "In the manner which bestbecomes you," as each conturier is cutting them in his own particular fashion, for there is no universal mode at the .moment, or likely to be yet awhile. But I can tell you of heaps of styles in vogue, any of which will be quits correct. Take the one illustrated — one favoured by Faquiu. This has the virtue of being jierfectly smoothly fitting over the hips» but has at the badk a series of pleats which jusi relieve all that is defective in the skirt that fits plainly all "round, and which is decidedly, unbecoming. This skirt is very elegant. Tho front and sides are what we know already, but the back breadth is cut up int>o a point, or angle, the exact point a little shortened, so as to leave material for a few little pleats ; the fold down the middle of the back is of course on the 'cross. The model is of black peau-de-soie, with a waist-band o£ turquoise velvet. The bolero which crosses at the back is left over in front and embroidered all over with jet and turquoise hand, work on a Briggs transfer pattern, the foundation being of peau-de-soie like the skirt. Underneath the bolero the bodice fits auita

tightly, lace filled into the high collar and falling 'into a jabot in front. This is a very useful theatre ard high evening gown, and wears

.well, as there is nothing to get out of order or tumbled about it. Quite another style is shown here, and this ■Bas a character altogether its own, and is very fashionable. The skirt is Tim into little upstanding tucks all round the hips, nearly as far "down as the knees. The tucks or pleats are' also worn stitched down flat, but "that is another story." All this costume, skirt, and •bodice is of the favoured French <lrap beige, .which is a becoming fawn-coloured cloth, trimmed with panne-satin (the derniere cri as regards materials) of the pretty new "serpent" green, which is almost black. . Tunic and flounce of the cloth are cut out upon another flounce of panne-satin, cut on the bias, and > little fawn-coloured cord embroidery festoons •the edge. The form of the bolero is new and interesting, the back quite simple and tightfitting, and the fronts tight as far as the dart, where the front edge is cut longer and then gathered into the dart, forming a pretty fussy effect. The trimming of the bolero is the same as the skirt, with the same festooned broidery surrounding it. The waistcoat is 'of swathed white silk, two little corners of panne-satin appearing towards the ear. The

toque is of the soft "beaver felb," in a fawn shade, with a twist of dark green, velvet and Sarge wing feathers. Cloth will be enormously worn this season, more particularlyy a very soft, supple kind, light and shining, called "drap satin." Incleed everything of a satiny nature is looked ■upon, with favour, for panne is really a kind of satin, with a surface like fine plush ironed down, and has a wonderfully brilliant surface. These pannes-satin are, I think, the great noyelty of the season, printed and plain. Velvet is another material for which there is an intense "feeling." Many gowns are toeing 'made of it entirely, and quite plain. IA. charming one I interviewed lately boasted a skirt laid (in appearance) on tv/o others. The two lower skirts showed to a depth of some 6in each. The three edges were machine stitched thrice in white silk on the "oak green" velvet. The bodice fitted tightly, buttoning down one side, and met a belt of folded white silk. Over the shoulders fell two little capes, rounded at the back, but pointed in front. The sleeves were quite plain, and a sable lay round the throat. The sketch of the pretty dressing gown here reminds me how often women will spend their little all on literally the outward adornment, leavjm? linaerie— netticoats, stockings, dress-

ing gowns and matinees — much, to be desired. • I love that beauty should go beautifully, and to see a pretty woman in an ugly old dressing gown whilst dressing or undressing is most inartistic., and not a.t all complimentary to

the husbands! Besides, when we are tired or not quite well, there is nothing so nice as to climb into one's dressing gown and remain perdu in one's own room for awhile — therefore, dees not our amour-propre demand of us a pretty one? This I hove sketched for you is of pale blue molleton flannel, the deep collar overlaid with guipure on China silk, and frilled with lace, with which the loose sleeves are also turned back. The lace that edges the collar continues down the opening of the dressing gown ; the waist is tied with a thick silken cord, and the vest is of tucked China silk. It is easy to get a pattern cuff of this gown, and if made at home its cost would not be more than about a guinea, and how much nicer it is than the ugly bought things obtainable at that price! — Yours truly, COQUETTE.