ILLUSTRATED FASHIONS.

Otago Witness, Issue 2376, 14 September 1899, Page 52

ILLUSTRATED FASHIONS.

Dear Emmelino, — I do not think we have any cause to complain about the weather this summer, for it seems to mo quite lovely. Ini the country the coolest and palest tinted gowns are in perfect unison with the brilliant sunshine and flowery meadows, whilst in the town all we long for is a shady parasol and a, relay of cool, yet smart frocks. To the girl on an allowance I can recommend nothing better than cheap cotton gowns, prettily and daintily made, either at home or by an in-

»» — ~ _ii,CTTJZ&3! expensive little dressmaker. It is generally best to have these made with a blouse bodioe, and they should always be provided with whalebone, and not steels, buttons, and not hooks. If these precautions are neglected it lnfana large ironmould marks when least desirtd, and though salts of lemon will remove them, the chemical often causes a hole in the tendec fabric. The one thing against cotton frocks for. the younger portion of the feminine community is the money they cost in the oftrepeated washings. The only thing I can

suggest is, choose a cheap laundress, and be careful to have the gowns made bo that they can be easily washed. And, after all, against this inconvenience, for morning wear in towns and all day in the country how fresh and charming a pretty cotton frock is ! The gown of non-washing material has quite a fustian appearance beside it. Old women often fight needlessly shy of the summer cotton frock, but why should they not wear black and white muslins, cool grey linens, and pretty zephyrs? The dress shown here, which is a very good washing pattern for a young figure, can be made of any washing material, trimmed with bands of guipure of white Swiss embroidery. I have chosen it in brown holland, nothing washing better than this, trimmed with the white Swiss insertion which bears an edge either side. If guipure lace is used it should be white, not cream. You ■will see it is quite a plain little full bebe bodice, and the material is cut away beneath the insertion, showing the lining through, .which is best made of holland. The tunic is treated in the same way, and round the waist is tied a bow of pale blue ribbon. The hat is Leghorn straw, trimmed with white ostrich feathers and white tulle. Hats are very pretty just now, and Leghorns are enormously used, especially the real, rather deeply coloured Leghorns. One with which I have a pleasing acquaintance just now is liberally trimmed with pale green tulle, soft satin ribbon to match, and arum lilies; another with blue satin ribbon of that soft rich kind and pale tinted green leaves. These hats are wired, and just given a curve across the face, and lined with fine tulle flatly laid up, which gives the straw a softened appearance. Tulle toques, rather larger than they were of yore, are still amongst headgear the most chic, but are trying to make at home, as they require so much tulle, and are so easily "tuld," to use a Yorkshire word.

The boa is in the zenith of its popularity, but I think those of chiffon or tulle are more favoured than the ostrich feather. I give

you the drawing of one here (fig. 4), in pearlgrey chiffon. This bears a tiny ruching of white chiffon on its edge, and is made as you can see of quantities of gathered chiffon, doubled frill, with long ends. These cravats, too, are amongst the latest neck adornments, fig. 1 being of white silk, trimmed with chiffon ruching ; fig. 2of white silk with 'a frill of fine silk muslin doubled and crushed into little pleats on a ruler, a tiny guipure applique between it and the silk, whilst fig. 3 is merely of plain silk muslin, the outer bow edged with black velvet. This silk muslin, more often called mousseiine de soie, washes beautifully, and makes up again as good as new. But we must'not confine our talk altogether to tho airy fairy trifles of fashion, but remember that it is not always sunshine and heat, and that the woman who has not a warmer, heavier gown in her wardrobe, and yet smart enough for all sorts of occasions, is not wise in her generation. One of the latest modes of fastening is shown in the frock you see here, and this also is a frock that would prove exceedingly useful. It ib made of the new make of_ thick cashmere, grey in colour, the trimming formed merely by the stitched rovers, buttoning tabs, and tunio. The buttons are

steel, and the blouse is of fine white muslin. Of course the little silk-lined coat can easily be removed at will, or left unbuttoned, but looks better closed. By the way, a pretty mode just revived in evening gowns for young girls is to make them, of white book muslir., tho skirts long and full, trimmed sparingly with lace, and with touches of black velvet about them. A' bunch of flowers at the left aide of the corsage makes a pleasing touch of colour. Nuns' veiling is another charming material for young girls' evening dresses, when expense has to be considered. A full bodice from a transparent lace yoke, confined by a satin ribbon at the waist, and made with a little lace inserted in a pointed tunic form on the skirt, has great =harms to please.— Yours truly, COQUETTE.