TWO GREAT SOCIAL FUNCTIONS.

Otago Witness, Issue 2371, 10 August 1899, Page 52

TWO GREAT SOCIAL FUNCTIONS.

A GARDEN PARTY AND A DRAWING? ROOM. LONDON, June 16. Dear Emmeline, — We are now well on in. June, and society doings are in full swing. Balls and parties and dinners and lunches and concerts and the opera alternate with races, cricket matches and garden parties. Just upon two society functions 1 purpose touching to-day, for it would not be possible to tackle more than two at one time. Choice is certainly difficult, but I have hit upon Lord Salisbury's garden party, at Hatfield, and upon the last Drawing room of the season, as my subjects for the week. It was on Saturday afternoon last that the Hatfield funotion came off, and a very big and swell affair it wa». Close upon three thousand invitations were issued to members of both Howes of Parliament and ' their friends, and those, of the guests who started from London proceeded from King's Cross to Hatfield by ten special trains. No afternoon, could have been more ideal for an outdoor gathering of this sort, as regarded from the weather viewpoint, than last Saturday ; wo have had three weeks of perfectly glorious sunshine and warmth, which came in with a> rush toward the end of May, bringing out with a great splash muslin frocks and all kinds of pretty summer gowns, some of every class being well in evidence on the occasion of which I write, making in Lord Salisbury's beautiful grounds a .scene of great brilliance. Two

Hands were engaged, and marquees were dotted about the gardens. The foliage of the trees and shrubs, now at their best, mingled ■with the splendour of the ladies' dresseß, made a mosi picturesque and gay spectacle. The guests were conveyed from Hatfield station to Lord Salisbury's country residence in carriages and brakes there in waiting. Royalty was represented by the Prince of Wales and the Duke and Duchess of York. The Princess of "Wales was to have been the guest of her hostess for the week-end, but in consequence of the indisposition of Lady Salisbury, who had contracted a slight attack of congestion of the lungs, and was unable to take any part in the afternoon's proceedings, the Princess did not go at all, though the Prince, with a small and distinguished House party, stayed until Monday. Of course I cannot give details of manyindividual dresses, but T can make a few remarks in general. The Duchesi. of York, whom I saw very closelj , looked well iv a dress of rich satin of a deep cream shade known as ficelle, veiled entirely with net of the same tone, the overdress being handsomely embroidered in a design of medallions, leaves, and tendrils. She wore a waistband and neckband of embroidered crepe de chine ol the same tone, and carried a pink sunshade. A dainty little toque of ficelle lace, upstanding winga of lace edged with gold, and shaded magenta roses completed a simple and yet striking costume. In attendance was .Lady Eva Dugdale, who wore pale bluish-grey. " In the absence of Lady Salisbury, Lady Gwendolen Cecil and Viscountess Cranborne received the guests. _ The formei wore a dress of pompadour silk with a neckband of cerise velvet; black hat turned up at one side with cerise roses. Viscountess Cranborne had a gown of' white foulard with a slender black pattern. It was trimmed with lace and had a sash of mauve chiffon. A black and mauve hat, with black plumes, was worn. On leaving King's Cross more than half the feminine portion of those about to start for Hatfield had their light gowns covered by dustcloaks made principally of China or shot glace silk, and much trimmed with tulle flounces ; some had full bishop sleeves, others had merely a cape over the shoulders, and some were of the plain circular cut. But they nearly all were left opon in the front, and thus showed a good deal of the dree.-»cs they otherwise covered. Most of the unprotected dresses, however, were very dainty and delicate. The favourite materials undoubtedly were foulard silks and transparent materials, suph as voile and muslin ; some silken poplins in a light grey colour J too were much patronised. While the majority of colours were Jight, there was a sprinkling of royal and navy blue, both of which looked a trifle unseasonable for such a lovely afternoon. The feet of the ladias were, as a rule, well attended to; openworked black silk stockings were most worn with court shaped shoes of black patent leather, some of which had a silver buckle on each instep, and so also did those in the Cromwell shape. I saw here and there a pair of the new grey suede with silver'buckles, and also one or two pairs of the most awful old leather, out-of-shape shoes possible to jmagine. In this respect lam bound to confess that a certain Duchess, whom I shall not panic, was one of the delinquents. I heard it remarked by a good-natured man that possibly her feet were tender, that she would go in something easy and put on a more presentable pail of shoes on arriving at her destination. This season there is a great improvement in the design of the popular foulard silks. Patterns are all lightly traced, and not great •plodgee to be seen a mile and a-half away, as was formerly the case. The Duchess of Portland wore one of pale blue patterned with white, and trimmed with tulle in the same two colours ; also a directoire hat with strings of pale blue and white tulle and white ostrich plumes. Also, in foulard silk, there was a lovely gown in pale cornflower blue patterned with a design of maiden-hair fern and trimmed with while, while the toque was ■ en suite. Crepe de chine was a good dea 1 patronised, one of its wearers being Lady Charles Beresford; the colour was pale grey, and her toque was of hydrangea-blue tulle. The same material in a lovely shade of duck-egg blue was chosen by Lady Beatrix Taylor ; hei large hat was trimmed with blue and white plumes and tulle. All the muslin dresses over colour looked ,:o fresh and girlish ; noarly all had tiny little

flounces at the foot of the skirt, headed with narrow bebe ribbon and edged with the same ; sashes with these dresses were general, either of chiffon 01 of ribbon, some being tied at the back and others having the bow and ends arranged so as to fall down the front of the skirt. The muslin bodices were full and pouchy and plentifully trimmed with lace and narrow ribbon and tucks. With many of the grey voile gowns, either over grey or over colour, narrow black velvet belts with pteel ornaments formed the waist adornment. Shirts were all more or less trimmed and shaped, according to the material employed in their construction. Regarding the muslin frocks, I thought that some of the prettiest were those of the spotted class, worn over colour. Two sisters were thus robed, oue dress being over bright apple green satin and the other over rose j*inl: satin, with Irimmingo to correspond. The sill" muslins and many of the printed orde: \i ere excecding3' p prettr. Then. too. some of the fine silky alpaca gowns were extremely graceful and soft, especially that worn by the Countess of Limerick. It was white, inserted with designs of lace, and accompanied by a plume-betrimmed toque made of shaded orchid mauve tulle. Very charming were the tones of turquoiso blue voile; in this shade it was a favourite with many of the fail and young beauties. Thero were a good many dresses of soft white silk, either figured or plain, and one or two i were wholly of Irish guipure trimmed with i deep fringe. Striped silks ala bayadere were j in delicate tones, and proved summery-look-ing, and there were one or two hair-striped silks of grey and white. In a light grey cashmere trimmed with panne, embroidered with j silver, and a bonnet to match, the Marchioness of Blandford was much admired. Several young girls, when dressed in muslin, : wore fichus of a new shape, or, rather, of the I old-fashioned style worn when the Queen was | a girl, and so often seen in ancient photographs. These were arranged in folds, going j square across the shoulders at the back, and ' coming to the front, via the arms,- well below the shoulders. In each case it suited the wearer, who was particularly tall and slight. Lace, of course, was used as a trimming, and they were knotted in the front, some having a coloured rose tucked in. Needless to say, the afternoon passed off most successfully; the Duke and Duchess of York left soon after 6 o'clock, and the other guests followed a little later. Many ambassadors were present, and several representatives of the Chinese legation, " got up to kill " in their gorgeous native costumes. But now it io time to turn to the second sub- i ject, which I have undertaken to treat as briefly as possible. This year five Drawing Rooms have been held at Buckingham Palace, the Princess Christian officiating at the three fir3t, the Queen taking the earlier part of the fourth affair, relieved later on by the PrinceßS Christian, while the fifth was presided over by our gracious aud popular Princess of Wales, who acted in her Majesty's stead. It is of tho last that I intend to say a few words, after making one or two general remarks. Of them all, it is generally held that the May functions are sweller and more eagerly sought than those of March oi June. The first are held really too early, and a great many society people have nob returned from abroad, where the winter has been passed. I have heard the March functions described as " useful affairs," for there are certain mothers whose aim is to get their daughters '" out " as early as possible in the season, and perhaps see them married before the end of that period ; also there aro tho wives of certain prominent public men. who, as they are obliged to appear at a Drawing Room every two years, like to get the ordeal over early. By May all society is in London, and the weather is usually kinder than earlier in the year, and for this month there is always a great rush to obtain permission then to appear. Presentations are limited to 200 at each time, and though it is quite long enough for the Queen or her representative to stand and receive them, yet out of London's thousands of swells it is easy to understand that there are bound to be some people left out in the cold. Lord Hopetoun's experiment with the ballot system has not been at all popular, and it is unlikely that it will be put into force again; each year it becomes more and more a difficult question to settle. After May comes the June Drawing Room, which is a sort of " extra special " arranged for " stragglers " and for those who have been unable to get to the May affairs. By June the season is well advanced, and the debutantes like to have the pleasure of appearing at society gatherings in their " come-out " dress eai-lier than June. On Friday of last week the Princess of Wales, looking pretty and smiling as evei in the face, was dressed entirely in black, relieved only by sparkling paillettes. Tho Duchess of York was there dressed in pale blue embroidered with silver, and the Duchess of Connaught, who wore white. The Duchess of Buccleuch was in attendance as Mistress of the Robes. On the '• occasion of their marriage " several brides were present. One of them was Lady Dorothy Gathorne-Hardy, youngest daughter of Lord and Lady Glasgow, who had lately returned from her honeymoon tour. She wore her wedding dress, which I described to you on the occasion of her marriage, with a train of striped satin trimmed with chiffon. She was presented by Lady Evelyn Goschen. Another bride was Lady Katharine Brand, elder daughter of the Duke and Duchess of Buccleuch, whose wedding at Westminster Abbey a short time ago created an immense etir. Her husband is the eldest son of Viscount and Viscountess Hampden. Lady Katharine also wore her wedding gown of white satin flounced with white chiffon, and trimmed on tbo bodice with tiny chiffon ruches and point d'Alencon lace. Sprays of white jessamine and roses decorated the dress, which had a sash of chiffon. Her train, of the transparent order, was composed of chiffon and niched with its own material, and decked with spraye of white roses and jessamine. Lady Augusta Orr-Ewing was present, and wore on this occasion a gown of cream point d'esprit, inserted with lace over satin. The train was white, brocaded in pale mauve and trimmed with wisteria blooms. One of the debutantes was Lady Mabel Annesley, who wore white silk muslin over satin, prettily trimmed with chiffon and white marguerites. Her train, too, was a transparent one. There were a number of beautiful women present, including Lady ' Londonderry, who has just returned from South Africa, and who brought her lovely daughter, Lady Helen Stewart. Lady Londonderry's dress was of rare Carrickmacross lace over white satin, the skirt opening in front and showing a petticoat of white tulle ; tho lace bodice had a berthe of white silk muslin, fastened with diamond ornaments and a trail of La France roses. Her train, of black velvet, had a lining of white satin. Pearla and diamonds were her ornaments. Lady Helen Stewart wore white satin with an overdress of French applique, trimmed with white chiffon and Alan Richardson Roses. Most of. th« clrossea JKfirjt particularly handsome

and striking and costly, and Space will not permit of my mentioning any more. Quite a feature of this season's Drawing Rooms has been the poDularity of the transparent train. It certainly is much prettier ! and softer and far more becoming than one of j moire or velvet or brocaded silk, especially j as applied to the younger members of society. j The lining of a transparent train must be of some equally diaphanous material. Many of the fabrics threaded with metallic lines are particularly effective and bright-looking. Puffings and ruchings are in abundance when dealing with this latest feature of Drawingroom gowns. Last week, orchids were the flowers most used, but, as usual, roses were well to the fore, and many other varieties were largely iD demand. Drawing-room teas were the order of the afternoon, a common custom nowadays. This week the Ascot Races are on, but the weather is not so bright as it has lately been. — Yours truly, ZEALIA.