ILLUSTRATED FASHIONS.

Otago Witness, Issue 2363, 8 June 1899, Page 53

ILLUSTRATED FASHIONS.

Dear Emmeline, — The birds are singing, the ioroouses are blooming, and spring is here. I am busy, and I expect you are all busy, in shaking out last year's dresses and scheming ihow best to make the old new and the tehabby smart. With a clever brain and natty fingers it can -be done, and a good deal of •money saved, but, as I say, it needs a good deal of thinking out. The tunic style of dre3B now so greatly in vogue is a helpful fashion for the rech'auffee gown, as sometimes two sowas can be made into one. The dress here illustrated has been manufactured out of two of my ancient frocks — a last year's blue cashmere and an evening skirt of blaok moire silk. The black moire was the worse for wear, and with difficulty just achieved the under skirt, on which the moire does but reach to the knees in front, and is only' a few inches deep round the other part of the skirt. It also made the collar and revers. The blue cashmere formed the tunic turned back to front, with no fulness or seam in the centre of the back:, as fashion decrees shall be the mode. It fastened, as you see, at the side round the waist, which should strictly be &

princess; a wi3p of moire silk is drawn as we had to have a seam, and the scroll pattern is formed by narrow black sotin or velvet ribbon slightly gathered on to a design indicated by a chalk line on a Brigg's pattern, which is done when the gown is near completion. Of course this kind of ornamentation takes time, but then, on the other hand, no dress of the day is smart or up-to-date without some similar embroidery upon it. The hat is of blue straw with black feathers, and an orange velvet rosette. The foatheis could easily be substituted by black tulle. When one is remodelling a gown it is quite necessary to unpick every stitch first, iron and take away any dirt spots and, if possible, turn the material before attempting to make it up again. It is never worth while to try and bring a coat and skirt up to date if it is very much behind the times, for it means everything must be altered, sleeves, revers cvt — indeed, the whole " hang " is wrong. Nearly all the coats are very short, and are more often single breasted, but when they are double breasted the front breadth is cut in a rounded point. White coats, of the very latest mushroom tint are much worn with dark skirts, and rather nice they look. Strapping is muoh used, and is much broader than of yore, quite lin wide. 'Some of these aforementioned white coats are strapped with the

same ' dark material as that of which the skirt is made. One I have seen boasted a skirt of the palest plastic tint, nearly white. The skirt was nut brown, and the little coat had rounded reverse edged with a broad, many times stitched strapping of the brown material. The short basque was cut round quite

ololblv to the hips, and was also strapped with brown.

The latest Btyle in coats strikes quite a new note, as it bears rather long tabs at the bade, is out to the waist at the sides, and forms a bolero in front. You will see this new style of coat exampled in the second of the coats sketched here. It is a navy blue face cloth, ornamented with little strips of H blue satin, cut on the bias and stitched/ which is, by the way, one of the most favoured modes of trimming of the moment. The skirt is plain blue cloth. The other little jacket sketched is of the most useful type, as' it is of fawn box cloth, and can therefore bo worn with any skirt. It bears a velvet collar, and is strapped down the seams, and edged with a narrow piping of braid on the outside of the strapping. I always think coats look nicer than capea, if the wearer has at all a good figure, but undoubtedly capes are very useful, and are, if not quite as much worn as ever, a good deal seen. T have discovered a new use for last year's capeß, for I find, they form a perfeot over-skirt a la tunic, and will allow for a couple of

bodice pieces besides*. It is a great thing to profit by all the advantages offered us by la mode. The first thing to do is to pick the cape to piece?, until it will lie quite flat, as is indicated in the little diagram, whence it will be seen that the tunic, two pieces which will simulate a little bolero, and the collar band can be cut out. These fronts should be interlined with tailor's canvas, and lined in the ordinary way with silk, perhaps that which formerly lined the cape, which was, in the case I have in my mind's eye, of stamped velvet. This little tunic and bolero could be worn with any plain skirt and bodice, or might go to form one of our new spring gowns out of a disliked cape and half-worn-out gown. The ' sample I saw of brown stamped velvet over brown cloth was most successful of odds and ends of fashion. There is nothing really new : the fronts of bodices are generally draped, large rovers are worn, and -once more the tailor gown is beginning to reign supreme, but it is a much more elaborate, costly style than of yore. — Yours truly.

COQUETTE.

Skin and slice three or four mutton kidneys, and put them, into a stew^an with a piece of butter, a spoonful of chopped parsley, and a pinch of chopped shallot and thyme. Fry the kidneys briskly, and keep them hot while you make the sauce by adding two tablespoonfuls of brown sauce and a glass of port wine, seasoned with salt, pepper, a pinch of cayenne pepper, and a squeeze of lemon juice; boil it up, and serve the kidneys on a slice of fried bread, with button mushrooms, which should be cooked separately, round.

EGGS A LA PAYSANNE.

Put half a pint of cream into a dish on the fire, when it boils break in six fresh eggs. Season with a cinch of salt and six whole

peppers. Let it cook for two minutes and then set it in the oven for. three minutes, so that the eggs get a good golden colour, taking care they do not harden. Remove from the oven, and place on a dish and serve.

TREACLE PUDDING.

Some suet paste, roll it out about one-third of an inch thick; butter a pudding basin, and line it neatly with this crust. On this put a layer of treacle or golden syrup, adding to it some grated white breadcrumbs and grated lemon rind; over this spread, another layer of the paste, then more treacle, etc., and so on till the basin is full, of course finishing with the paste; pinch the edges of the top well together. Wring a pudding cloth out of boiling water, flour it well, and tie it carefully over the basin. Plunge the pudding into fast-boil-ing water, but do not cover it, and keep it steadily and sharply at the boil till cooked, which for a moderate pudding for five or six people will be about three hours. Serve very hot. •

BEEF GALATINE.

Eight pounds of lean flank of beet, salted, six eggs, parsley, Jib breadcrumbs, lib mushrooms, lib sausages, borne aea-soning, a little thyme. Mix together the breadcrumbs, sausage meat, a handful of chopped parsley, and thyme," dried, rfifely rubbed, some seasoning, the eggs, and a pinch of mixed spices; cut the beef in a large thin slice, well season it with pepper, spnjkbjjthe forcemeat, then roll up the beef very*TT§htly, tie it in a cloth, place it in boiling water, and boil for five hours; when cooked press and glaze.

TAPIOCA SOUP.

To five pints of stock add 3oz of crushed tapioca; boil for two hours; season to taste with salt and pepper; pour in a little milk or cream, and serve.

CHICKEN TEA FOR INVALIDS.

One chicken and a little salt. Cut up the chicken in small pieces, taking off the skin; put it into an earthen vessel with some salt and three pints of water ; let it boil three hours ; strain it; set it to cool for six or eight hours, then take off the fat; the tea will be like a jelly, and may be warmed a little at a time as required.

RAGQTJT OF COLD COOKED BEEF.

Butter a shallow dish and scatter breadcrumbs over it and a little chopped parsley. Then arrange a layer of slices of beef, season thoroughly with aalt, pepper, -and made mustard. Next have a layer of breadcrumbs and then beef, placing sippets of bread on the •top. Pour over a teacupful of stock, scatter a few pieces of butter on the sippets and bake very slowly for two hours.

APPLE ROLY-POLY.

Make a nice light suet crust, roll it out very thin, and cover with chopped apple. Sift sugar- over the apple, and flavour it with a little grated lemon rind, and, if liked, a suspicion of ground cinnamon. Roll up the paste, moisten the ends, and pinch them together very securely. Boil in a cloth for two hours, and serve with sweet sauce.

VEAL CAKE.

Cut into dice some cold slices of veal and ham, butter a mould, and line the bottom and sides with slices of hard-boiled egg, then fill the mould almost level with the top with the veal, ham, and small forcemeat balls; season each layer with pepper and salt. Stiffen some stock with a little gelatine, and pour this into the mould to quite fill; bake for an hour in a moderate oven, turn out and serve on a bed of salad and sliced beetroot. SALTED ALMONDS.

Place 3Joz butter in an omelet pan; when it is dissolved add jib almonds blanched. Shake them about until they are slightly brown, then take them out, place on a piece of paper for a few minutes to drain, and sprinkle salt over. Put the almonds at once into a cool place; keep them there until sewed.

OX-CHEEK BRAWN.

Soak the oheek in water for an hour or two, in which three good handfuls of salt have been added. Then put into a large saucepan, coyer with cold water, bring gradually to a boil, take off all soum, add a large onion stuck with three cloves, draw tha stewpan to the side of the fire and simmer very gently until the bonea will draw out easily. It will take about four hours' cooking. Take away all the bones, cut the moat into small pieces, add pepper and salt to taste, put -the pieces of meat 'and liquid together, stir with a spoon, and dish up into a brawn tin, if handy, but a cake tin or any other dish will do equally well. Let it Btand all night, and in the morning turn out for breakfast oi lunoh.

SEEP KIDNEY.

One pound of kidney, 2oz butter, one dessertspoonful of flour, pepper, salt, a cupful of boiling water, one tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, lemon juice, or vinegar. Trim and cut the kidney into slices, season with sa!t B and pepper, and dredge well with flour, fry on both sides, and when the pieces are done through, lift them out, empty the pan, and make a gravy with the butter, Hour, pepper, salt, and water;" shake them round, simmer for one minute, add the mushroom ketchup, lemon juice or vinegar, pour over the kidney, and serve.

GIPSY HAM.

One pound of ham, one tablespoonful of vinegar, 2oz butter, two tablespoonfuls brown breadcrumbs. Divide the ham into neat pieces ; cut off the rind, make the butter hot in a frying pan, fry the ham on both sides ; remove on to a dish, add to the butter the crumbs and fry for a few seconds ; now add the vinegar, reheat, and pour over the ham.

CHOCOLATE ICING.

Melt 3oz chocolate in half a gill of water, add Jib icing sugar directly the water is warm. Stir till all is dissolved, but do not let it boil.

REHEATED JAM ROLL.

Cut the remains of the roll into rather thick slices, and, if required, put a spoonful of fresh jam on each slice. Place these on a baking tin, and heat in a brisk oven till the pastry is hot and crisp.

TWO POINTED QUESTIONS ANSWERED.

"What is the use of making a tetter article than your competitor if you cannot get a belter price for it?

Ans. — As there is no difference in the price the public will buy only the better, so that while our profits may be smaller on a single sale they will be much greater in the aggregate.

How can you get the public to know your make is the best?

If both articles are brought prominently before the public both are certain to be tried, and the public will very quickly pass judgment on them and use only "the better one.

This explains the large sale of Chamberlain's Cough Remedy. The people have been using it for years and. have found that it can always be depended upon. They may occasionally take up witn some fashionable novelty put forth with exaggerated claims, but are cer tain to return to the one remedy that they know to be reliable, and for coughs, colds, and croup there is nothing equal to Chamberlain's Cough Remedy. For sale by all leading chemists.