ILLUSTRATED FASHIONS.

Otago Witness, Issue 2359, 11 May 1899, Page 52

ILLUSTRATED FASHIONS.

Dear Emmeline, — It is amusing to note how fashionists rant at blouses, and declare their extinction is sure, and all the time they pop up as merrily as ever ! The fact of the matter is we can't do without them, and while the world of dress lives and laughs, blouses and shirts we must and will have. And this year they are quite as pretty as ever, for. the most part made of taffeta silk in every variety, of colourings, tucked and gathered in all sorts of ways. Some of the prettiest are tucked as far as the bust. with. • three stripes of lace insertion let into the waist. This insertion is about an inch, and a-half broad, and forms transparent collar and cuffs. Another pretty model has a sailor collar, edged with a kilting of white silk, a little tucked white silk vest inside,

the rest of the blouse being of figured coloured silk. The first blouse of the two sketches here shows how fancy ribbon can be utilised with good effect. The bodice iB of fancy silk, coral, with a little black running design and the front 13 made of white, silk ribbon bordered with an edging of black velvet and narrow flower design. One piece crosses and then falls into a drapery, which loses itself in the belt. The ribbon hero is made sufficiently broad by being attached to a piece of white taffeta ribbon. The othei blouse was exceedingly pretty and dainty in reality, and shows what can be don© by mere stitching. It is of pale grey taffeta, sewn over 'with white silken spots, save where it is tucked from the shouldei downward and across the sleeves. A little kilted frill runs down either x side the front, and behind it an edge of the silk is battlemented with narrow black velvet' ribbon. The vest and eollai are of white satin embroidered with steel beading. Altogether a perfectly simple blouse to make, and yet an extremely smart and dressy little affair when completed.

This sketch shows you a dress of the latest fantasy of" oui Parisian sisters, a cloth cut out, which they call "draw guipure "or "guipure etincelle. We tried it, if you remember, a year oi two ago for capes, but much less cut out. This dress is of grey cloth, forming a princess, and is nearly entirely cut into trefoils on a foundation of parma violet velvet. Of course it is very expensive, but I have given you the design, as it is undoubtedly the material for which 'there is the derniero

cri, and many will be tho emarfc 'dresses formed of it. There is a very decided reaction in favour of princess dresses, but these have two serious drawbacks. Firstly, they §r«

very difficult to cut and make by any except the most experienced dressmakers, and, secondly, because it is only a very good and slim figure that appears to advantage clad in a princess gown. But I suppose Madame . Xi. Mode doesn't reckon on these things. All the sleeves of our coming gowns will be very tight and plain, a fact that I am sorry for, ac tight sleeves are most uncomfortable. The newest coats and skirts show tweed skirt, plain coats, and tweed revers and cuffs. The coat and skirt alike of the same material have quite gone out. All shades of fawn, deep and bisouit colour, are very fashionable, and smart little coats are made with revers and broad collars of white moire, the rest of the garment stitched and embroidered won,drously.

Here is the design of a dres3 suitable for an elderly lady, for she so often is left entirely out of our thoughts with regard to dress, and has to take the leavings of the youngsters. "Very often old ladies, or those who should be old ladies, if years count for anything, affect bright colours and a jaunty juvenile style of dressing that make them appear as old ewes dressed lamb fashion, and greatly detract from the gracefulness and dignity of old age. We all hate growing old, and still more do we object to that horrid middleagedness. But it is no good worrying over the inevitable, and it is far wiser to take the trouble to grow old gracefully^ than kick against $ie pricks. There is a tremendous pleasure and attractiveness about * a welldiffcsed, which- means becomingly dressed, old lady. The aged should never wear gownß with'hard lines about them, crude colours, and acc-itualed fashioD. Indeed, I think myself thai :aoofc women over 55 look best in blac'i

or black and creamy white together. How distasteful it is to see an unnaturally young head on old shoulders, in another sense to that generally meant The ecffc, pretty waves of grey hair that time has whitened under the lace cap is surely more becoming than the strangely youthful brown tresses with fashionable curls and coils about the head so often seen. This design of a dress for an elderly lady is graceful, and yet does not appear to have come out of the ark. The material is what is usually called vigogue, but might be cashmere, silk, or anything else. The bands are of velvet, edged with ruches of silk muslin, but these bands might alpo be of another material, ribbed silk or lace applique. Tho sleeve is lightly draped at the top, and trimmed with a small epaulette. The vest is of pleated silk muslin, cream or straw-coloured, with a cascade of lace falling down either side. The draped collar of muslin is softly finished with lace, and great care should be taken to see that this collar is neither too high or too low, but soft and comfortable. — Yours truly,

COQUETTE.