THE WAIKARE'S EXCURSION.

Otago Witness, Issue 2319, 11 August 1898, Page 23

THE WAIKARE'S EXCURSION.

A CRUISE AMONG SUMMER SEAS.

FIRE WALKING CEREMONY. (From Oitk Own Correspondent.)

Auckland, August 6.

In my last I gave a summarised account of the trip of tlie Waikare so far as her visit to Tongatabu was concerned, and now take up the story of her voyage from that point onwards till her arrival in Auckland Harbour. The Waikare left Rarotonga at midnight on the 12th July and arrived

AT PAPEETE at daylight on Monday, 14th July. The first impressions of the place justified the anticipations of the excursionists. It was the first coral reef bound harbour they had yet entered. They found Papeete en fete, being the second day of the great national festival celebrating the fall of the Bastile. The Governor held a reception in the morning and gave an official dinner in the evening. The town Avas crowded with thousands of natives from the neighbouring islands, all in the brightest and most striking attire of varied colours, and seemed to occupy their time largely in marching up and down to the beating of the tom-toms, while in public squares various singing and dancing contests were held. The bodies of natives engaged in these contests had evidently been carefully trained for some time previously. Each troop was arrayed in a distinct garb, many of tho dresses being of a grotesque character. The French authorities, owing to the arrival of the Waikare and her excursionists, had made the contests more attractive this year by adding to the number and value of the prizes. A special grand stand had also been erected in one of the squares for the accommodation of tho visitoi-3. Something had also been done in renovating some of the drives to places of interest. Beyond this no hospitality of a general character was shown to the visitors; indeed, the number of the latter precluded anything of the kind being attempted or done. The Governor, M. Gullet, and some of the French officials showed every courtesy and attention to those of the visitors who were introduced to them. During the clay native games were indulgad in, and thoro was a procession of war canoes, c-aily decorated in ancient Tahitian fashion. Riding, dm ing, and cycling were indulged in by the visitors. Races were held on tho local racecourse, a most amusing race being a donkey race. An exhibition of " fire walking " was given by some Raiatea natives who had to come to Papeete to participate in the games of the national fete. During the five days' stay the excursionists were very much delighted with tho numerous drives

about the island and the beautiful scenery witnessed, while some charming boating expeditions were organised from the ship to some of the beautiful spots inside the coral reefs. Some hospitality was shown on board the V> r aikare to the French officials, prominent citizens, and leading natives in the shape of a dance one evening, the ship being decorated and a display of fireworks made during the evening. On the Sunday of the ship's stay there was an excursion to the island of Moorea, about 15 miles from the entrance of the harbour of Papeete. In addition to the passengers of the Waikare, there wore some 500 guests from Papeete, to whom the excursion was a great treat, as it was an opportunity rarely afforded to tho residents.

ISLAND OF lIOOREA.

The Waikare entered the magnificent harbour in Moorea and anchored a short time. It is a delightful place owing to its luxuriant tropical vegetation in the foreground, backed by high mountains with sharply serrated edged and cul into fantastic shapes. An amusing incident occurred here, as, in order to produca some romarkable echoes from the surrounding mountains, some bombs were exploded from the Waikare. This brought on board the French official in charge of tho island, and with loaded revolver and excited gestures h« demanded to know what was the ship's mission and her business there. He informed th< ship's people it was against the regulations to fire off guns. Fortunately the military commandant of Tahiti was cne of the guests on board, and he assured the excited official that it was all right. When he calmed down it was explained to him that the reports were not caused by firing off cannon, but by the explosion of a small charge of guncottou. The excursionists spent a clay at Moorea, and a very pleasant one it proved. The excursion gave great gratification to both excursionists and the guests, the local residents of Raiatea. The Waikare finally left Papeete on the evening of Monday, 18th July, to the great regret of the passengers, who had enjoyed their visit so much, and had only began to realise the many attractions of the place and its picturesque scenery. The ship had a magnificent send-off, thousands of natives collecting on the esplanade, cheering and singing native chants and songs, while, according to the custom of the island, presents were bestowed by the natives and residents upon the excursionists whose acquaintance they had made.

RAIATEA,

The next port of call was Raiatea, which was reached on the morning of Tuesday, 19th July. This is a most beautiful island, having one of the most perfect reef harbours in the Pacific. Tho entrance through the opening in the reef is most picturesque. The termination of the reef at each side of the entrance is marked by a beautiful islet covered with cocoanut trees. The Waikare stayed here for two days, and the excursionists enjoyed the rest very much. As there were no festivities, they had an opportunity of seeing the natives in their every-day life. Indeed, a great many of the natives were away at the national fete at Papeete, in which they were taking part. At Raiatea the excursionists had an opportunity of seeing " Umuti," or

"fire walking."

It is peculiar to Raiatea, and is only carried on by one family, and even by them has not been practised for many years. The leader, or priest of the party was a man named Tupua. They are the only ones now alive said to be endowed with the power of causing their people to do "fire-walking." Only a certain section of Raiateans practise this custom. The exhibition was arranged beforehand, by the Union Steam Ship Company in the interest of excursionists. It was previously performed on Raiatea on September 20, 1385. In preparation for the ceremony a large pit was dug-, perhaps 30ft long by 15ft wide. Into this was piled a large number of stones of a peculiar character. These were pLced pell mell in the first instance, but were hammered down finally so that they would not readily move when walked upon. Wood was built upon the stones, and kept burning for 24 hours before the ceremony took place. All the cinders and ashes were then removed, and the stones were found to be at a white heat. The natives, to the number of 50, walked to and fro in procession over the heated stones, at intervals with their bars feet, headed by their leader, who is supposed to be something of a sorcerer. The leading files carried branches of a tree of some particular variety, which they waved in front of them, and which is supposed to exeroise some magical effect in bestowing perfect immunity from injury while walking on the stones or through " the fiery furnace." The ceremony was looked upon by the natives and by white residents, many of whom had never seen it before, with feelings of awe and Wonderment, and it is said only members of a certain family have the gift of performing the feat. It was evident, however, from the number of natives who passed " through the firo," like the Hebrew youths — many of them young and of both sexes — that the thickness of the soles of the feet was tho principal qualification Two or three of the performers had their feet burned, but they probably stumbled and slipped between the stones where there was very often live fire. The most disagreeable effect when passing over the stories was the fumes arising from the heated mass into tho face of the performers. Mr James Mills, in order to test the experiment, twice passed over the heated stoneß, but with his shoes on, and experienced no disagreeable sensations to his feet, but was somewhat overcome by tho heated fumes. On the second day of the stay at Raiatea

A HOST SUCCESSFUL REGATTA w<ts held. The harbour was eminently suited for the purpose. There were boat races between crews drawn from sailors and firemen and cooks and stewards, and also from lady and. gentleman passengers. In each case three 01 four cresvs contested. The exciting event of the day was the ladies' four-oared race, which was most keenly contested. There were four crews, and the dinners were tho New Zealand crew, composed of Mesdames Michie, Campbell, Holmes (all from Dunedin), and Miss Blundell (Wellington). Mr Walker, chief officer, acted as coxswain. The Sydney boat, manned by Sydney ladies, was favourite. A comic boat w?s pulling about in the neighbourhood of the ship, manned by the second officer (Mr Stewart), in the garb of a rahitian chief, and four young fellows of the crew dressed as women with bonnets and skirts. These created great diversion by tumblina over each other and throwing one another out of the boat into the water. It was unfortunate for the New South Wales crew, whic'fl were leading, as hurrying to get out of th« way of the returning competitors, an oar wa& left by the comic boat floating in the water, against which the leading Sydney boat struck, and had her way deadened, and the New Zealanders, who were close up handy, getting the lead, won. In the Gentlemen's Foaroared Race the New Zealanders also won. _ In addition to rowing races among the ship's company, there was a capital yacht race among some 12 or more of the native pearling cutters. They all started from a line at gun fire bofore the wind, and it was a most beautiful sight to see the start. Some of tho excur*

sionists were in pack boat, partly for tho pleasure of the crui3e and partly to Bee fair play. , This race attracted a groat deal of interest, and was keenly watched from start to finish; : Another oxeiting event was a race between ' balf a dozen of the native catamarans. These , ciaffc battled keenly for a small prize offered, j and it was very amusing to witness the skill ; •with which thoy managed their catamarans ■ ii rounding the distance buoy. Another m j torcsling ovenl was three of the ship's boat* manned by native girls, who entered into the spirit of the conto-st with great gusto. Ihey seemed to have no idea of rowing in unison, | as not ono oE tbem had ever had an oar m , her hands before, although no doubt well , Kkilled in canoeing. Altogether the day was a very ploasant one, the surroundings being agreeable and the temperature on board the ship, owing to the delightful breeze blowing, was a!] that could be desired, and a marked contrast, to the heat on shore. A start was made from itaiatea on the evening ct the dUth July the Waikare reached Apia on the even ing of Sunday, 241 h July. This passage proved ; to bo the hottest part of the whole trip, is | the trade winds wore immediately abaft snip : consequently no benefit in the shape of a cooling brcczo was obtained from them. Notwithstanding tho heat, however, the passage was maclo very ploasant by several eiilertammentti among the passengers. The principal event was a fancy dress ball on the evening before . reaching Apia. Some few passengers had "brought their fancy dresses on chance of their "beiro; useful. Most of them, however, had to extemporise as best they could from the materials at their command, and the result was 13 most pronounced success, as no less than 70 appeared in fancy garb of one sort or another. Dancing was kept up briskly foi some hours. The sight was a most striking one, as tho Waikare's upper deck when enclosed and Ji«MoJ with four large .elusion < of electric lights make a very handsome ballrconi, which might well be the envy of. many un entertainer on shore. The excursionists "bad a most enjoyable lime of it

AT AHA, and many of them pronounced it to be even more attractive than Papeete. Ihe native, made tho visitors very welcome and So chiefs got up native dances and feasts for tho delectation ot their visitors, while the various drives in the neighbourhood of Apia proved very interesting. Many proceeded to the German plantations at Vailili, and were enabled to see thoir extensive plantations of coco.anute, bananas, coffee, and copra, etc. ; while others went to Valima, the home of the late R I, Stevenson, and also to his tomb, higher up a hill which is 1300 ft high. On it was the following inscription:— ' 1850— X. Lt. Stevenson— lß9*-" Also the sub -ined lined, written by himself : — Under tho wide and starry sky, Dig the grave and let me lie. • Glad dicfl live and gladly die, - And I laid me down with a will. This bo tho verso you grave for me : Hero ha lies where he longed to be. Home is the sailor— home from tho sea,— And tho hunter home from the hill.

Other parties visited Papaseed, the famous ■sliding rock, and many of the visitors, ladies -as well as gentlemen, indulged in the exciting «xperienco of sliding down the smooth surface of the rock into the bathing pool below, to the great delight of surrounding natives. While at Apia a ball was given on board the "Waikare by {he Union Steam Ship Company to the leading officials and residents, a few of the leading chiefs also being present. Among the guest 3 were — The British Consul (Mr Maxe) and Mrs Maxe, the United States Consul (Mr Osborne) and family, the German Consul (Mr Roze), Vice-consul Grunon. Chifii Justice Chambers and Mrs Chambers, with their son and daughter, also the representatives of the great German firm D.H.P. Company, traders with their wives, and also the captain and officers of the German warship Bussard. Tho ball was a brilliant success. A great feature in this, as in all other functions on board the Waikare, was the excellent music provided by the Italian band which accompanied the ship. The harp was an immense source of interest to the natives of all the islands visited by the Waikare, as they had never seen one. Although no doubt familiar to them from Scripture teaching from their missionary guides, hitherto it had onl/ been a mystic symbol to the natives. It was now a reality. The gramaphone was also an immense attraction to the unsophisticated islanders of the summer isles of Eden, and all were very anxious to know where the voice came from. A most delightful function took place on the evening of the Waikare's departure. The officers of tho Bussard invited the excursionists to go out for an hour in their boats, which were gaily festooned with Chinese lanterns and other coloured lights. They were formed in procession by a boat containing the Bussard's brass band, and if; was a delightful sight to neo this string of illuminated boats moving airily about the harbour in thv> soft night iiir. The excursionists readily could imagine the boats to bo a procession of gondolas on the grand canr>l in Venice.

THR TONGAN GROUP.

The Waikare left Apia at midnight on Wednesday, 27th July, , and reached Vavau at daylight on the following Saturday. A quiet day was spent at this lovely spot, the surroundings being quite different to those of any place previously visited. The harbour at Vavau was a most striking one. ( The passengers who hailed from Now Smith Wales readily conceded that Sydney Harbour had at least a rival. By this time the excursionists had to feel the effects of the hot weather through which they had passed, and the effects of personal exertions in excursions at tho islands in a hot climate, and were glad for a quiet time for rest in the cooler temperature experienced at Vavau. The Waikaro left Vavau early on the afternoon of the 30th July, and stopped at the entrance of the harbour to permit of the passengers visiting o, remarkable cave. Ths boats were all lowered, ami with the assistance of several shore boats in waiting, the passengers were all disembarked and rowed into the cave. Thifl proved the most striking sight of the trip. There were no less than eight »hips' boats in at a time, full of people, which will give an idea of the extent of the cave. Its vault-like proportions were very impressive. A striking feature was tho azure hue of the water in which tiie boats floated. There was an inner cave, into which a few of the more venturesome penetrated. The Waikare reachd Nukualofa, the capital of the Tongan Group, on the morning of Sunday, 31st July. A very quiet day was spent hero, as tho natives were under strict missionary control, and managed to suppress their natural curiosity to fee the Waikare and her visitors, and so were conspicuous by their absence. In any case there was little to be done here, as owing to tho heavy recent rains tho roads were too much cut up to permit, of driving to the celebrated monumental stones and tombs of the kings, which are at a distance of eight to ton miles from Nukualofa, and it did not take long to nee all that was to be seen about the settlement, tho most noticeable featuro of which,

as also of Vavau, waa the park-like appearance of the streets, all roads being well grassed, so that the oxcursionists as they wandered about felt more as if they were in a private park than in a capital of a'South Sea Island kingdom. The king was sick, and would not see anybody. He is greatly worried over his matrimonial affairs. His people, from motives of policy, wish him to marry a Tongan girl of pure blood, while he desires to marry the girl of his own choice.

HOMEWARD BOUND.

With Ihe departure of the Waikare from Tonga practically ended the excursion, which may be said to have been an ideal one throughout. She left Tonga on the evening of Monday, Ist August. Nothing eventful occurred on the passage except, tho usual functions. It is understood that the Waikare's excursion has been so successful from a tourist point of view, as well as financially, that it will be repeated next year, but somewhat altered. It is intomlod to start from Sydney and proceed to Wellington, as before. The steamer will then \isit Auckland, thence to Tonga tabu, Vavau, and Apia. From Apia she will proceed westward, visiting Wallis Island. Fatuna, Fiji, New Hebrides, New Caledonia, and thence to Sydney. The excursion has been a most pronounced success, and passengers one and all express themselves in enthusiastic terms of all they have seen in and around the lovely islands of this part of the Pacific voyaged over. The Union Company have more than fulfilled their contract, every detail, from the arrangement of the dinner tables to the times o£ arrival and departure at the various groups of the islands, being carried out with unfailing accuracy. The band also contributed in no little degree to the enjoyment of those on board during tho trip, and played during dinnertime. The Waikare is specially suited for work of this character, with her splendid saloon and ample ventilation and fine promenade deck. Captain Richardson and his officers were most attentive to all, while the stcwaid's department was thoroughly efficient and the staff willing and obliging.