LADIES' GOSSIP.

Otago Witness, Issue 2310, 9 June 1898, Page 43

LADIES' GOSSIP.

— One of the prettiest fetes of the Spanish hea&on was the " 3aJ de Poupees," or dolls' ball lately given in Madrid. The aspect of the ballioom was not only original, but also very pretty, gay, and animated. The choice of stuffs, 'the cut, llit arrangement of the trimmings, indeed, all the* accessories that constitute a doll's dress, were faithfully represented in the costumes of the ladies. Some of these were dressed as babies, with long narrow skirts, very short-waisted, sashes, cap, and flaxen wig; others as little girls, with iheir hair ove&. their shoulders. Some, too, wore smart silk dresses and immense hats; others were in ful) ball dre?s, while a few figured as fisherwomen, market women, peasants, polichmelles, players on cymbals, dancing Jacks, etc , A great, deal ■ was naturally left to the imagination of the : wearer, for dolls an? as frequently dressed s in the fashion of to-day as va character, ex in that of ancient time, but each costume was a reproduction of the simple gaucherie, the brillaiiit colouring, and the wonderful combination that one sees only in the dolls' shops. —To the student of science evolution is an interesting subject, but much as has been said concerning it, the story of the evolution of the jnodern girl's shirt is, asjrat. nn-

told. The garment undoubtedly hails fronl the masculine world, but the first woman, brave enough to appropriate for her -sex % modified edition of the masculine one is still unknown. Years ago a girl's shirt was littla better than a nondescript, shapeless article of apparel fashioned after the manner of the similarly-styled man's garment, and as unlike the modern, elaborate" shirt " as anything could be. As time wore on, lighter materials were used for its preparation, and even some attempt was made to fashion it after a more shapely method. Gradually prints, muslins, and flannelette were used, and later the shirt could only be recognised from the blouse by the stiffly-starched collar and cuffs. t But now even these are discarded. Silk and velvet shirts are iri vogue, and the latest fashionable freak where the shirt is concerned is to have it composed entirely of white satin adorned with judicious trimmings of delicate lace. Soon we may expect a chiffon shirt, finished with linen collar and with a tie of gossamer material. For suitability is of no account, appropriateness is disregarded where fashion is concerned, and what signifies a name so long as an " effect " is the result?

— The latest thing in the way of fans in Paris is the life-sized painting of a bird of some kind, handsomely mounted on perfumed sticks of cedar wood. These fans, which aro simply immense, have been readily adopted by the very chic among our elegantes at present en villegiature at Cannes, Nice, and Monte Carlo, who find them not only useful as a fan, but extremely handy as .a protection against the too ardent rays of the sun. It may, therefore, be predicted that this charming find artistic fantasy will be one of the spring novelties, more especially as the fancy is likely to be taken up by those who have any knack or taste in water colours; and who can therefore provide themselves with one or two of these useful articles.

— The Empress of Austria, at her Corfu folly, Achilleion, in her insatiable craze for the Queen of Flowers, has a "rose park," as she delights to call it, of every known species, and at her Lainz Schloss, outside Vienna, no fewer than 400,000 standard rose trees grace the parterres. Trellised roses vault in many a walk in these secluded gardens, to which the public are denied admittance. Out at Shronbrunn, too, the famous and historical rose nlantations have, at her Majesty's behest, undergone considerable enlargement, and the august lady is alleged ta have said quite recently, in her greed, " Vast forests of them would pleas© me most of all." The denizens of Vienna are unquestionably loyal in their allegiance to the dynasty, of Hapsburg-Lorrame. Crowds collected in, the outer courts of the Hofburg on an idle rumour having been spread that the Crown Princess Stephanie had succumbed .toner sufferings, and on being assured to the contrary, a 1 fair percentage were overcome" with joy, the more pious repairing. to the various places of public worship to give further expression to their gratitude. In "her daughter, Princess Elizabeth, Crown Princess Stephanie has discovered the most solicitous of nurses. On ascertaining that her mother was really seriously ill, the young Archduchess installed herself at once at her mother's bedside. Mother and daughter are inseparable, and Elizabeth insisted on sharing with the sisters of mercy their nursing duties both day and night. " The venerable Emperor has taken his daughter-in-law's illness greatly to heart, and from 6 a.m. to 11 p.m. pays frequent visits to her apartments to interrogate the physicians and the nurses and console his pet grandchild, whose and future welfare is very dear to him.

—An assistant at a certain natural history museum has been conducting a peculiar inquiry in the shopping region. He has been inspecting feminine head-gear there, and has compiled a list of birds which hesaw used in connection with it. Forty species are represented, including thrushes, linnets, shrikes, flycatchers, swallows, woodpeckers, jays, owls, grouse, doves, quails, nerons, gulls, terns, and grebes. In all he saw 173 wild birds, or parts of them, on the headpieces. The appeals addressed to women to wear no bird-borrowed plumage are not, howevev, it is to be hoped, being made in vain.

— A well-knowp Spanish singer had nearly finished her engagement at Lisbon when she .found her throat affected, and at 11 o'clock in the morning she sent to the manager o* the theatre where sh.9 is engaged a note that she could not appear in the evening, fho manager sent two doctors to examine her, , and they^declared that she had nothing the matter with her. Soon afterward the police arrived at the hotel where she is staying, forced her to get out of bed and dress, and conveyed her to the offices of the Civil Governor, where she remained under arrest until 8 o'clock in the evening, when the police conveyed her to the theatre and forced her to appear on the stage. News of some of these extraordinary proceedings, meanwhile, had got abroad, and when the public found that she tried to sing and broke down, a tremendous hubbub arose. People rose from their seats in a .threatening attitude, cheered the actress, and whistled and hooted at the manager. When the curtain fell(.h2 house lool:ed like a veritable bear pit.

— Chauncey Depew thus states ins views — and he has had n lot of experience — of happiness in life:— "The happiest timo in my life is the present, but to-morrow will be more happy. That is one of the philosophies that help make life worth living," lie continued. " Children are not half as happy as men who have reached middle age^ They have no end of troubles, and there are lots of competition in a child's life. 'ihjv have examinations to pass, too, which are always a trial, and then they are the victims of their own intemperance. They eat to-> much, exercise too much, and let thei? tempers get away with them. And they always exaggerate their little ills, which makes them unhappy. No, indeed ; children, are not half as happy as grown people.'!-— " Which person do you thtnk is more happy — the millionaire or the -man in middle circumstances? "— " The man m middle circumstances, providing he is not too middle.'ha answered promptly. — " And do you think that anyone is wholly happy for any length of time in this world?" — Well, I supposo no one is perfectly happy, but we should haye. no trouble in maintaining an average of "happiness that approaches a perfect state. A right-minded person will take no account of sickness and sorrow or misfortune of any

kind. When are cheated and deceived i by your friends you must think of your sue- j cesses and good fortune ; and when yoti look. I back upon, yonr life you will find that tlie j good tnings so far outweigh the misfortunes : that ypu have been permanently, happy j A good,, straightforward person should be i happier "because of the difficulties and .perils j .that beset his path through Jifo.;" — "what.-] business or profession do"- you" think' is the^j happiest for a man? "— -''.Why, l the one in Which he knows be can do the besfc work . I think every man' has some on? business that suits him If he qdlv takes the trouble I ,to find out what, ife Is, "^->" And what great j . than <if Jilstory -<jp you think was the I - happiest^ or 'should hare been the happiest?" j '— - (leorso Washington," said %1r Depew. "He had the affection of his countrymen and the admiration of the world in his lifetime, and was sure of permanent fame as the saviour of his country. Be was happy 'ill his domestic relations, always in good '^health, -and possessed of an »mpl<? for'tnne.'"—-" What, grent man of to-day-do you 'th'inlt should be the happiest? "— " I'm sure "I/'don't know."' said Mr Bepew. " Either Mx Gladstone or the Pope.- They are of ,ja.bqut the same agfy have each had phenomenally, successful career's, and both com,bahd the" admiration arid .veneration of the world. '.They both have great intellects, 100/ and, great qualities of mind and heart, and have exerted a beneficent influence upon the times."' ' — Evening dress at afternoon receptions Ys the latest innovation in political Washington society. Miss Mabel M' Kinky, a niece of the President, is the pioneer of the movement, and her recent appearance at an afternoon tea party in a decollete gown catised — as well it might — something of a $ensation. If the innovation had died on the spot and never been seen again, the sensa'iion would have been sotnethirig to be thankful for, but, unhappily for Washington, the fashion has " caught on " already . among the more advanced set. — prhjeess Marie of Roumania, wife of the Crown Prince, has an unusual hobby — the collection of perfumery bottles. In this Bhe resembles her grandmother, the late ' Empress of Russia, who left a collection of ,|ierfuraery bottles valued at £5000.- — The Queen's " difficulty .in moving } about" is many years old, as it originated f .In a fall which her Majesty met with about 1882 when coming down the staircase at I Windsor „ Castle. The Queen ' has neve? '^walked for more than a few steps for a pumher of years past, but her Majesty n j'wheeled aboxit in a, chair, and there is a lift "lor her use wherever she goes. — There was quite a Little tempest in the ,'CVurt of "Common .Council over' a recom- i Inendation of the Police Committee that | .'«teps should be taken to regulate bicycle j Jtiaffic in the, city of London. The alderJpien thought 'that the police' could 'deal with 'the' "question welJ enough under the existing ; .^egufiitions and the committee were dreads i jtfufiy angry at the Implied snub v - To pre- | Vent cycling in the city at .the beginning ; ftnd the end of the day would certainly in- j $ict hardship on the numerous young men J /who save money by riding to and from business. But there is no room in the crowded city streets for the rider who is riding only for amusement ; and as we cannot widen the Streets the only palliative is to suppress un j "necessary traffic. Here is a case in point j j&t the Lambeth County Court, before jCTmlge Emden, a cyclist asked for damages Jor the smashing of his machine by an omnibus near Liverpool street station. Now frudge»Emden, as he remarked, has had so many of such cases that he determined to jtsycle himself and ascertain the true bearjbge of tho question. And he concluded that the congested streets of the city wars not fitted for cyclists unless they were experienced and had plenty of nerve. We f )may add tfaat the cyclist's safety depends largely also on the experience and verve of the drivers and pedestrians hi the vicinity. And the judge very wisely refuse 3 to award any damages at aIL The newspaper boy '«» a bicycle seems to be regarded as v thing 'apart by the police, and to have the privilege W riding as fast as he likes through the mo3t fcrowded streets. ' We have often wondered ft,K the nerve and skill shown by these (youngsters. But they are a continual "danger to other people from 10 in the morning to the time when the last extra epecnl fs in thi> hands of the public, aud the ordi.ftary amateur- who hnitated them "would, .speedily y £md hini>elf ' in the* nearest police ' court.', "From News of the Wheel we learn that* the' Maharajah of Jodepore is an enthusiatic cyclist, and has been " providing 'jbimself- with a whole stud of machines./ •fflie expression is a quaint one. It suggests" that the Maharajah would have found it cheaper to do as tho Glasgow alderman tvauted to do with the gondolas. He should have bought a pah of bicycles — a male and a female — and left the rest to nature. V- For' a graceful figure the shoulders should be flat at the back. Whether the^y arc or not greatly affects a woman s whole appearance. — Shortly after his marriage, the Duke of Fife bought a town house in Port man square, thus breaking for the lirst time through the an written rule which ordains that members of the Royal Family- shalf occupy rooms in one of the Royal palftow. (Though the Duke of Fife's house lit Portman square, is well adapted for entertain- > ing, the Duke and Duchess since their i marriage have contented themselves with ; giving quite small parties and receptions. ] Their rooms are among the most tastefully- j decorated in London ; each apartment is hung with silk, the furniture being all of the' Louis Quinze period; with the exception of the Duchess's boudoir, which is entirely Japanese. The Duke of Fife's eldest child' was born at Sheen House on May 17, 1891. On the birth- of Lady Alexandra Duff, it was decided that tho eldest utanlchild of the Prince of Wales was only xv have the rank and title of a Duke's daughter, "and chis although she was fifth tv the succession, and at that time actually nearer the throne than had been the Queen at her birth. Still, the child who "might conceivably be called to the throne was not a Roydl Princess, but only the daughter of a British beer, and her parents wisely decided fchftt no exception as to place or title should be made in her case. The Duke of Fife is 4 typical country gentleman. lie does not care for town life, fttid he is never ao happy as when indiilcini: Lti one of the many forms

of sport in which .he excels ; accordingly, he and the Princess spend much of thj summer and autumn at New Mar Lodge.

On the estate are two stretches of salmon

; fishing, extending for some miles. Wlvle j the Duke is stalking in- Mar Forest Ms wifs j fishes in, the Dee, a.od last year she hooker! I'tlic largest saJmdn caught in Scotland during > Ihs current 12 months. The Duke and

j Duchess of Fife do not seem to share any of'their Royal relatives' leva of tnveil'ng Shortly after their marriage they made a tour in Italy s bub sine* that time they ha 'o ! been quite content with the scenery of their I own country. Somo thca ago they bought I a house in; Brighton, and when there th • Duke and, Duchess are o*ten seen cycling up and down the King's road, unrecognised by the thousands who frequent London-on-Sea. - ~-' A turn along Princes street and George street this lovely, bright spring morning (says a write) in the Glasgow Citizen), when the shops were showing their very gayest goods, sent me home with little else in my head than millinery — hats and toques, flowers, ribbons, chiffons, and what not. Although many of the hats are loaded with flowers, one does not see such veritable

flower gardens as were everywhere in evidence last summer. A brownish - golden straw,, rather flat in the crown, had a closelyplaced wreath of pinkish-yellow roses lightly | veiled ou to.p bj a fall of delicate black Jace. | On the broad brim rested a roll or twist of [ turquoise blue chiffon, which was also car- [ ried up in one tall bow right in the centre j at the back, flanked' on either side by tur|.q'uoise blue wings standing well out right | and left. It is not everyone who could wear | the dainty Parisian hat, of which I give a i sketch, but it would be very chic and becom- | ing "to a tall, fair girl. It is of fine bla.ck I straw, with black plumes caught in the "centre of the front by ahandsome buckle. A ! twist of rose pink velvet parses round the hat- and appears under "the brim at the back. • "' It is quite delightful to lovers of the plain tailor-made gown to find that the seal .of fashion is still upon it, and that our old friend the coat and skirt is left to us as fresh as ever. The latest style of coat is fastened ! down the middle in front, has a collar of velvet above a stitched collar of cloth, and nas I heavy straps stitched down gracefully fitted to the figure and round the edge of the coat. There is a. severity about the style that is i eminently dignified. A more elaborate cosI tume has trimmings of velvet applique, outj lined with blsvck and gold braid, with epaufettes and basques and gold -embroidered

" A smart cycling suit of myrtle green cloth has a shapely little coat, "of which 1 give a sketch. It, is neatly oynamented with

straps, stitched round the edges of the coat, and brace-like straps over the shoulders botli bach and front. " 1 noticed a very smart and stylish golfing costume on the Braids the other day. It

was made of a heavy cloth diagonal, crimson fttiJ black 'The jacket was a Norfolk with bishop sleeves, and with it was worn a natty little scarlet tie. Tfie Tarn o' Shanter. also scarlet, was of the latest shape, standing ■rt'elt up ou the left side, which was adorned with a pleated bow of_scarlet ribbon and a bunch of black cogue feathers, held in place by a. largo silvei buckle." — Cronberg, • with its magnificent^ views and exhilarating ftir, is the favourite home of the Empress Frederick of Germany. Here she can lead the simple, unostentatious

.irn^rrnw !»■ wiun- Mwmrnmon— iiirwM«T*«t»uiinii»ii ■im»t — «* uavwm life which she loves best. Every Sunday she maj be seen In her favourite yellow phaeton driving into Homburg, where she always attends service at the English church. She is much beloved in the district o* ICciuburg as well for her unaffected amiability as for her large, if discriminating charity.