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Otago Witness, Issue 2293, 10 February 1898, Page 47

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VIA AUSTRALIA, CEYLON, SUEZ, NAPLES, ROME, FLORENCE, BOLOGNA, &O.

By John Clegg.

IX. The churches in Rome are very numerous, and their interiors richly ornamented. The exteriors, however, with the exception of St. Peter's and the Pantheon, look more like old barns than anything else. The Church of St. Peter is said to have been founded by the Emperor Constantino. It was erected in the form of a basilica^ with nave, double aisle?, and transept, on the site of the circus of Nero where St. Peter is said to have suS&red martyrdom, and it contained the brazen sarcophagus of the apostle The church was approechedby an entrance court with colonnsdes, and was surrounded with smaller cliurches, chapelp, and monasteries. The interior was sumptuously decorated with gold, mosaics, and, marble. At Chiistma3, in the year SOO, Charlemagne received here the Ronian imperial crown from the bands of Leo 111, and saumerous emperors and popes were subsequently crowned here. In course of time the edifice had become so damaged that Nicholas V determined on its reconstiuction, and in 1450 began the tribune from the design of Bernadino Rofsellino. The walls had risen to a height of 4ft to sft only when the wosk was interupted by the death of the Pope (1455). The work was not resumed till 50 years later, when a new impulse was given to the undertaking by the idea of Julius II to erect a tomb for himself duriEg his own lifetime, for whioh, as there was Eiot sufficient room iv the chutch, it was proposed to add a chapel.

After various vicissitudes the work was taken iv hand by Michael ADgt-lo (1546 64). Ha strengthened the pillars of the dome, simplified the form of the aisles, and planned a. porch borne by four columns and terminating in a pediment ; but this last part of his design was afterwards abandoned. Notwithstanding the vastness of its dimensions, the dome presents a marvellously airy and symmetrial appearance. The result of these various vicissitudes is that Sf. Peter's is the lasgest and most imposing, if not the most beautiful, church in the world. Its area is about 18,000 square yards, while that of the cathedral of feiilan is 10,000; St. Paul's, London, 9350 ; St. Sophia, at Constantinople, 8150; and Cologne Cathedral, 7400 square yards. While the exterior of St. Peter's is open to criticism, the interior is strikingly impressive and the proportions are so nicely adjusted that its vast siza is not for some time noticeable. The magnificent and plainly-decorated dome rests on four hug« buttresses, 234 ft in circumference, the niches in the lower parfca of which are occupied by statues.

The view from the summit of the dome is v,ery extensive and the ascent comparatively easy. Beneath tha dome rises the imposing but tasteless biocze canopy, borne by four ricbJy-gilded spiral columns, constructed in 1633 by Pope Urban VIII from designs by Bernioi cf the metal t*ken from the Pantbeon. It is 95ft in height and weighs about 93 tone. Under the canopy is the high altar, constructed in 1594, where the Pope alone reads Mass on high festivals. It stands immediately over the tomb of Sc. Peter, The Confe? sio, constructed under P<iul V, is stirrounded by 89 ever-burning lamps. The descent to it is by a double flight of marble steps.

Tne Sisline chapsl in the Vatican is another of the show places of Rome. It was erected under Sistus IV in 1473: length 133 ft, width 45ft, and has six windows on each side. Beautifully decorated marble screens enclose the space set apart for religious ceremonials. The lower pait o£ the walls w*s formerly burg with Raphael's tapestry at festivals. It was executed from cartoons drawn by Raphael in 1515 and 1516, seven of which were purchased in Flanders by Charles I of England, and are now exhibited in the South Kensington Museum. These designs, derived from the history of the New Testament, are amocg the most admirable of the great master's works. Each piece of tapestry, wrought at Brussels (not, as formerly suppose d, at Arras, the cradle of the handicraft) with great skill in wool, r-ilk, or gold, when complete cost abouc £700. The ceiiiag of the chapel was begun by Michael Aogelo on May 10, 1508, and, es proved by existing documents, oompleted in October 1512.

Whether the ceiling of the Sistine chapel or the stacze of Raphael are to be regarded as the culcninatirg effort of modern art has long been a subject of controversy. The merit of uniformity of thought and compactness of position must be awarded to the ceiling painting, and these attributes are the more worthy of admiration, as the subjects of the whole series had nob been agreed upon from the outset. The pictorial enrichment of the ceiling was at first to be limited to the figures of the twelve Apostles, but Michael Angelo, perceiving the. poverty of the design, prevailed on the Pope to allow j him to extend it. In order to connect the different scenes Michael Angelo invented the imaginary structure with columns, pillars, ' and cornices in broDzs and marble which rises from the walla and encloses in the middle of the ceiling (which is vaulted, with a flat surface in the middle) nine sections of different size. The lifelike figures which step forth from the architectural members, some of them in their natural colour and others of a bronze tint, impart to the background such animation and significance aa to render it an admirable introduction to the large central pictures. It is here that the spectator will become fully aware of the importance to a painter of a thorough acquaintance with architectural design, and of the extent to which Michael Angelo availed himself of such acquaintance, ' In 1534-41, under Paul 111, nearly 30 years later than this ceiling, Michael Angelo painted on the altar wall " The Last Judgment," 64ft in width and 32ft in height. Careful and repeated study alone will enable the spectator to appreciate the details of this vast composition, which is unfortunately I blackened with tha smoke of cejituries and uu£ar£-4iiably lighted. To fethom the re-

ligious views and the artistic designs of the talented master ia a still more difficult task.

The street life in Rome is very interesting. I was much struck with the groups of ladies walking together. It is a rare thisg to nee a youug fellow taking hi 3 sweetheart ouc for a walk, as youug ladies are sever allowed to be ia company with a man alone until they are married, the natural result being that married life in Italy is anything but a happy one ; and no wonder, the young people having no opportunity of gattit g well acquainted with each other before they are married. This also applies in a lesser degree to English communities, where the match-making propensities of ambitions mothers and moneygrubbing fathers blight many true and loving natures by well-nigh compelling them to mate with one whom they do not truly love. Mammon worship is the curse of the present generation, particularly in England, where luxurious living is gapping the very life blood of cruth and honour out of the national character. The word duty— the faifchful adherence to which in the hour of danger has many and many a time rescued the British flag from shame and dishonour — is rapidly disappsaricg from the English dictionary. The Roman cabdrivers are very polite, in marked contrast to the Neapolitan Jehus. The conductors of tha cable and horse trams are also civil and obliging. OwiDg to the charming climate the restauran's have chairs and tables in the open air, where you will see during the long summer eveDirgs bappy gronps smoking their cigarettes and sipping coffee whilst oiscufbing the topics of the day. Cafe cbantantes are also very numerous, where plays oq a email seals are performed and ballets introduced.

The penuy-in-the-slot principle hss been put to a novel use in Rome. A large room is fitted up with a great assortment of liqaenrs and other drinks ; the insertion of an Italian peuny gives you a small glass of ram paocb, absinthe, or anything else yoa may require. There is a youth in attendance to wipe the glasses and see that the apparatus dees not get out of order.

{To he continued.)