A ROUND-THE-WORLD TRIP.

Otago Witness, Issue 2287, 30 December 1897, Page 54

A ROUND-THE-WORLD TRIP.

THE UNITED STATES.

NO. IX

THE GOVERNMENT PKINTING OFFICE-

THE NEW CONGRESSIONAL LIBRARY,

GEORGETOWN— OAK HALL CEMETERY : THS GRAVE OF JOHN HOWARD PAYNE— ARLINGTON — MOUNT V3R-

NON, WASHINGTON'S OLD HOME

It would be an endless task to attempt a description of the many great public buildings and institutions of Washington, and yet many of them form subjects of tha very greatest interest. Such, for example, is the Government Printing Office — a vast hive of industry, where in the fiscal year ended 30fch Juue, 1895, there were turned out 1,787,173 volumes in cloth and leather bindings, ami 1,182,955 pamphlets bound in paper. It is estimated that an edition of 10,000 copies of a 2000-page book can be produced by the office in eight hours — type set, proofs read, made up into pages, printed, folded, gathered, and covered. There are 2900 persons employed duiing the sittings of Congress and about 2700 at other peiiods, and it is said to bo the largest; printing office in the world. Tho -Smithsonian Institute and National Mu'enm is one of the most interesting places iv the city. Th's world-famed institute is the outcome of a bequest of his fortune made to the United Stales by Jss. Sraitbson, a younger son of the Duke of Northumberland. He died in 1829 and was a man of considerable scientific attainments. Tho legacy amounted to about £100,000, and the language of tho bequest was : "I bequeath the whole of my property to the United States of America to found at Washington, under the name of the Smithsonian Institution, an establishment for the increase and diffusion of knowledge amoDg men." The National Museum portion of this great scientific institution has collected under its roof an enormous gathering of almost everything representing the life and progress of America and of the countries of the world, of the industrial arts, science, ethnology, >keletona of existing and exliaob animals, &c. Examples of almost everything conceivable of bistoric, # artistic, industrial, and scientific value are here to be found, and these are continually being added to. Here alone tha visitor to Washington oould find ocoupatiou for dajs of leisure. ...

After the Capitol, of all tbe buildiogs in Washington that are likely to attract the attention and command" the admiration of the present-day visitor is the recently-finished Congressional Library. This magnificent building was commenced in 1886, on 10 acres of ground east of the Capitol grounds, en which had stood a number of inferior dwelling houses. It cost the Government about £120.000 to acquire the land, and the library buildiDg cost about £1,250.000. The style is Italian Renaissance, and the building coverf, inclusive of open spaces in the interior, three and three-quarter acres of ground. It is a graceful and noblelookiDg ediSce, built^of Concord (New Hampshire) granite, relieved with groat numbers of windows, pillars, and cornices carved in a highly ornate manner, and upon the keystone of epch of its 33 arched windows there is carved a human he&d typical of some distinct race of man. The main front (facing the Capitol) is enriched juat below the roof by four colossal figures and surrounded by a pediment with two sculptured American eagles as the centre of an emblematic group in grauite. There is a massive front staircase from the grounds, with a fiae granite' balustrade, which forms the approach to the building. Over the arches of the three entrance doors are carved, in relief, figures representative of Art, Science, and Literature. The roof is of copper, and the dome is heavily gilded, terminating, 195ffc from the ground, in the ever-burning torch of Science.

The main entrance hall is of Italian white marble, and the western corridors of Vermont mottled blue marble, followed on the north wing by a corridor of Tennessee marble, dark red in colour. Ons£he east front the corridor is lined with Georgia marble, richly veined in black and white ; while the south corridor is a vi3ta of red and white Cham plain marble from Vermont.

Having mounted tho outer granite stairway, an elaborately decorated vestibule gives access to tha entrance hall, a fine looking room constructed of white Italian marble, highly polished, from which rise two splendid staircases. This great hall has a height of 72ft to the skylight, and has a number of lofty columns with richly carved Corinthian oapitals. Its great vaulted and highly ornate ceiling, the fine white marble balustrades leading to the galleries on the nexb floor, and tho exquisite foliated designs which adorn the arches, combine to produce a splendid architectural effect. Accustomed as I have been to the more commonplace architecture acd plain interiors of the public buildings of New Zealand, I was lost in admiration of the strikingly beautiful work surrounding me, and realived how impossible it would be to convey any idea of it by mere words. It has been described as " a vision in polished stove" and "a dream of beauty," but thece words can convey no idea of the reality.

The public reading room is reached from this great ball through corridors adorued with mosaic ceilings of a very rich character. It is of octagonal shape, and is ICOft in diameter, lighted •by large semicircular windows, and with effectively-designed pillars of dark marble, surmounted by smaller pillars of lighter marble, crowned with emblematic statues. There are no less than 77 arches in the room, with pilasters and architraves and architectural work of a highly pleasing character, all contributing to make a harmonious and striking effect. This room is called the Rotunda, and, like the splendid hall from which it is entered, no words can give the slightest idea of its magnificence. It has been said that nothing in the United State.*, and little in the world, surpasses the artistic splendour of this greit rotunda— all mellow marble, sparkle of gold, and play of significant colour.

The decorative work throughout this ambitious building is of the most ornate character, and a striking feature of it is the mural painting. The most prominent painters of the United Sta'e3 have examples of their work in allegorical and emblematical pictures of great size on walls and ceilings. Architects, painters, sculptors, designers, workers in mosaic, artißfcs of all kinds, have been employed for years in the effort made by the nation to produce a building and to produce interior effects which would render the Copgreßeional Library a structure of which they might be proud. How splendidly success has crowned their ambition will be the testimony of all who have the good fortune to visit the beautiful and charming city on the banks of the Potomac.

But I must pass from the description of Washington's public buildings, and take my readers with me to other places of interest. A Quiet stroll down Pennsylvania Avenue

brought me to Rook Creek aftd thence 'to Georgetown, which bafore the railway days wao a flourishing village and the tidewater terminus of the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal, which in 1828 was carried through to Cumberland, Maryland, at a cost of 13,000,000d01, and which is still used for the transport of coal, grain, &0., when rapid transit is not necessary. Georgetown is not a particularly attractive place, but contains much to interest the lover of history. Ib has a. college which is under the direction of the Fathers oE the Society of Jesus, was chartered by acfc of Congress in 1815, and waa empowered in 1833 by the Holy See to grant degrees in philosophy and theology. The School of Law of Georgetown University is said to be one of tbe besb in America,, and jfc has aleo a Sohool of Medicine. .' "* "~\ Near the Aqueduct Bridge a sign painted upon a brick house gives the sightseer the information that the house is the Key Mansion, the home for several years of Francis Scotb Key, the author of "The star-spangled banner," who resided, there after tbe war "of ,1812, became district attoiney, and died in 184-3.~ ReLuroiug from Georgetown and diverging from the road I made my way to O.\k Hall Cemetery, on the southern bank of Rock Creek. A beautifully situated flpofc on ground rising in terraces, end with the graves of many persons noted in Washington's history. Near the gateway is the chapql, built in an old Eoglith' Btyla of architecture, and covered with ivy brought from Melrose Abbey. Among the graves is that of John Howard P-*yne, the author of "Home, sweet home," who died in Africa in 1852, a,ncl was buried in the cemetery near Tunis, whence the remains were brought in 1883, and interred in the Washington Cemettry. , Perhaps the most interesting spots in all Washington and its environs are Mount Vernon and Arlington, the former Gt orge Washington's old home on the Potomac and the latter that of John Custis, the head of cms of the first families in Virginia, and the father of the lady who bacame Washington's wife. But, albfcough ab the ri>k of making ray notes on this part of my trip too long, let me quote from an account of this historical npot: — '"The history of this old home of colonial aristocracy is not oaly closely identified with the annals of early Virginia but with the political development of the country. Ib wm bought, as a tract of 1160 acres, for £11,000, by John Cusbip, who, early in the eighteenth century, camo from the eastern shore to live on his new property.- His was one «f the "first families of Virginia" in every Bcnse of the word, and possessed great wealth ; but he hsd various domestic trouble?, one of which was that his high-spirited son, Daniel Parke Custis, insisted upon neg'e^tiug a highborn heir* S3, prepared by his parents for his future consort, and marrying, instead, pretty Martha D&udridge, the belle of Williamsburg, the colouial capital. The old gentleman was very angry, Hnfcil ono day Martha Daudridge met him (it a social gathering and fairly captivated him. Tho nmriage was ma-Je and prospered, and, when old Cu»tis died his son and his wife came iafco possession and residence here at Arlington, where Daniel soon died, leaving Martba a young widow , with two children, John Parka and Eleanor Cuslis. His will entailed this estate to 1 his son, and divided bis other proparfcy, his wife receiving *s her share lands and securities worth, perhaps, lOO.OOOdoI. In due time this rich and blooming widow re-entered pociety, where she presently became acquainted with a colonial colonol, who had recently achieved military famo in Braddock's expedition against Fort Duquesne. He lived with bis mobher nt Mount Vernon, only 15 miles below, and his name was George Washington. It waa not long before he wooed and won the charming and opulent widow, who laid aside her weeds and went with her two children to live at her husband's home. Together they managed and ca-ed for the ArlingI ton estate uutil its young owner should come of age, and both were often there. The daughter died,' but the son grew to manhood, received his nob'.e property, married a Calverb, and served upon his . stepfather's staff during the latier part of the Revolution. Then he, too, died (1781), and his two infant children were adopted by Washington and deeply loved. ■ They kept their own names, ho and Nelly, who seemed to have inherited the beauty of her grandmother, married Major Lewi?, a Virginian. Her brother, George Washington Parke Cuatis, upon reaching his majority, inherited and took possession of Arlington at tho beginning of the present century, and immediately began the erection of tho present m nsion, which, therefore, Washingbon himself never saw, since he died December 13, 1799, while this house was not completed until 1803."

From Arlington to Mount Vernon is a natural transition, and I can recall no part of my trip through America which gave me mare pleasure than a visit to a spot so full of interesting associations. Mount \[ernon is situated on the batiks of the Potomac, and is distant 16 miles trom Washington. Ib can ba reached either by electric car or by the river boat Charles Macalester. Taking the steamer the fare for the return trip is 75 *, but it is preferable to go by one rou're and return by the other. I went by car, and a very pleasant ride it proved through the old Virginian fields and stretches of delightfully luxuriant native wood* on some portions of the road.

The lands about the estate were part of an extensive "grantto John Washington, who came to America from England in 1656. They descanded to George Washington in 1752. He married and livad on the estate until the Revolution broke out. Having displayed great ability in the Virginian militia, his services were sought in the struggle for the independence of the United Colonies, and he' rendered conspicuous service. He returned to his peaceful and beloved home at the close of the war, bat with one accord was chosen as the firifc president of the Republic. It was not until 1797 that he was permitted to again settle down at Mount Vernon. Ho fell a victim to membranous croup two years afterwards, and wa3 buried upon his estate, his family declining the subsequent invitation of Congress that his body should be' removed to the Capitol. In 1802, at the death of his widow, the estate descended to Bushrod Washington, a judge of the Supreme Court, who died in 1829, leaving it to ' John Augustine 'Washington. At tha death of Augustine Washington's widow in 1855 it descended to her son, who proposed to sell it. This aroused the patriotism of a southern lady, Miss Ann Pamela Cunningham, who secured the refusal of it, and made a strong effort to induce Congress to buy and preserve the estate as a memorial. In this she was not successful, bub, showing a determined spirit, she formed an association of the women of the country, by her -energy obtaining representatives from every State. The association was incorporated in Virginia iv 1856, subscribed the necessary funds (200,000dol), and bought the estate (about 200 acres), covenanting to hold it in perpetuity.

There is an admission fee of 2-sc, which goes to the payment of cnrrent expenses. I strolled up the pathway to the old mansion, and endeavoured to call up. in fancy the days when its old master devoted himself to. the dutieß of his plantation life and the improvement of his estate ; to his call from the peaceful and eon-

termed life he Jed to thesbattleaold with^iil'i^a dangers and anxieties K;to; his return afteirft-'* brilliant military career-Uhe people's i^oU'to?his acceptance of iheir^wll to th 9 * Presi*"' dency of the youug -n*tUm ; ami to hia too' short span W life ■ in.jbHe old home after all his official responsiMftifca and 'cahs hS^i" ceased. His was unquestionably ci, great a"M^ noble nature. £ , 'r • ■ TV The old house is built of woofl', « o a'hV*W^ clium to architectural beauty. Jt is 'of twd> storeys and an attic, and is 98f£ "by 3Qf fc " The "'* rooms are all small and with lo^ ceilings, bufcit iS v ' a comfortable old'nunsion for,^b.© days in which it was buik. There are charge, who ahoy visitors %o rooms Tanrt /£»£ • historical eouloriW There" ar V {£ h£» W wjiich the illmtrious owner «V b ;< J5V* died-; many of the old chairs aim other T - ture, numerous personal^relica &c -wr *.• * ni " and of his days ; an»her r *?N*wHS«tojlL not fail to.interest the visitcv? - . There were a goo&"maatf r JB? I J ) £ fe * 'Scattered^ through the house gazing} 'With'. curious aud?" interested eye on these g/ 8 ? 1 ? 9 of^'ldngvpasb* years, and I observed wit'^ 1 mabh interest that « there was a look almost re f ere 9 tla j °n the facss of Washington's couatryn" Qn >Wflo were there. Their hats were removed rlBr 18 ?°o Q as fch* y crbsaed' the threshold- of tho old 'fc&uso, aud mained uncovored until th,^y a lt *«• .Reverence; is -understood to be absent \frciafe' 1 American character, bub l}Cl* nn y -thsre is more of it than is generally cr^ited.;,.- At 'any rate*~Y such is tbe result of my oPseivation daring-my I visit to Mqunt Vernon, a't^ on ORC^sfctiilj ri> to which it. is possible I r^ay have kqccaMoa'l;ak qccaMoa'l;a refer. '. " .- .' .••KJ-\^'.\ A stroll down the beautiful' undulating lawn^ and through the fine old t«ea bring* tha rrsitor to Washiagbon's tomb. A Its position . attd- J> " general form were sab oat m his, will. It is »v, plain brick erection built iittp the bank^ajTa with its front enclosed '-by 'two, Jrori gates., - Two marble sarcophagi hold' in their, mahogany coffius tbe remains of Wasnington an&.hU-Jjlf&.i ,.; and at the back of them., are' entotebtd jihe 1:',1 :', bodies of about 30 raiSftivetpdfthe family, In charge of fche-fcoinb I fo.uad an old negro,; with whom I entered into conversation. He informed me 'that his -Udtound Parker, aud tb!*t be hlTd been a^alavtf'dr^Jonn * Augustine Washsaeton,^nd''' l bSme with him to * Mount Vernon in 1841V serving him right up to ' the Civil War. Hefiwas born in West Virginia in 1827. I found thej.old, man a.- faithful. J guardian of Washingtoa's'VomJb. He adds) a little to his lioaitedgjllo'wßnce.by selliog 1 lifctle ' memento hatohets /wb^oh he makes \from, pieces of wood got from j the plantation' oiißl)K^ property. .J , „ ■■ • ' "&' Wo had a most delightful "rofcurn trip by , steamer up the Potcihao, pasting - many ' picturesque spots on /its beautiful woiided' shores. But space will not^peroiib^me 'to'dlwoll further on beautiful ,; Washington andi. r itox piofcuresqua eurronndiffg?- I enjoyed ' mo^bX;'.thoroughly my few day*' »tay and. left the city . regretfully. : < < '~""'"V ,- \ . , f}'