Gross Boots and frnit Trees.

Otago Witness, Issue 2250, 15 April 1897, Page 8

Gross Boots and frnit Trees.

The treatment of gross roots is best undertaken when the fruit is cleared, and, though I am not an advocate of extreme cutting back, I am a great believer in root pruning done at the proper time and with care. lam aware roots may be pruned at any time, but I do not think the best results are obtained by delaying the work ; indeed, in no caso would I advise pruning other than in the early autumn, just as the leaves begin to turn colour. In the cafe of trees intended to be lifted right out of position I would prefer to do this work earlier than Is often advised. It may be thought that the trees, if left alone, will right themselves if allowed to carry a heavy crop of fruit. Here lies the difficulty, as such trees, though they may bloom freely, will not set their fruit. It drops, and the result is strong wood, eaoh year making matters worse. To leave roots alone with a free top growth aggravates the evil. It may do in the case of old trees which have been severely top pruned foe many .yoare with

no attention to gross roots, aa a few years' free growth will often give such trees a new lease of life. Some varieties of apples and pears will nob bear this continual hard pruning back, beiDg gross growers, and the cultivator would do weii to note such, before going to extremes either with the roots or top growth. Where root pruning is carried out before the leaf changes colour the operator should study the requirements of the trees, as to remove a quantity of strong roots, and thoss before the wood is matured, causes shrivelling of the upper portion of the shoots, and in the casa cf peaches and nectarines it is well to preserve the growths, and yet prune sufficiently early to get new rcot action before the foliage turns. It often happens that a goodly portion of gross green wood must be cub away at the pruning, and if a few tips or points should shrivel it is not of much importance, as these will be removed in the usual couree. On the other hand, ib is important to retain healthy foliage to the last, and this may be done by early root pruning if tho trees ara not taken out ot position, only strong roots checked. All fruit trees this year are more advanced in growth, and early root pruning will tend to furnish the trees with better lrulb buds, check late gross growth, aud assist in ripening up the wood. No matter how carefully root pruning may be done a fevf late lateral growths may flag, bub these are i'-vt wanted for fruit production, and the loss of ?, few leaves is nothing in comparison with the * 4 cod effected, as these early rootpruned ti.ea will ba in fine condition next spring to blart upon their season's work, having made new rootlets from the points of tho roots | cut back. Tho froib buds also will be the | gainers by » timely check on the gross wood growth. In doibg the work there is no gain in half measures, 6uoh as uaing the spade instead of a sharp knife ; indeed, in many bases, a too free use of tho spade has brought root pruning into bud repute. It stands tq reason it a youug tree is denuded of its support near the stem evil results must follow. Use a fork when near the roots, getting out a good trench, as without room it is impossible to examine the roots. In lifting much may be done to avoid loss of leaves or cyan young wood that has not finished growth. In tho ca*e of peaches, plums, and stone fruits I am in favour of lifting, as it gives the trees a better chance, and the roots may be placed nearer the surface. To avoid loss of foliage, endeavour to retain a portion of the ball near the stem, and by so doing there will be no 1033 of fruit; ucxfc season. In casts where removal to a disrai.ee ia riecessary, it is an easy matter with young trees to place a strong mat under the tree and life out of position. With older trees a ball of earth aud roots may be out of the question, and after a severe cutting of roots the trees may fail to fruit the next season. This points to the necessity of lifting trees when young. Take older trees, say six to 12 years old, with gxrss wood, and iv their ca^e the earlier the work is done the bitter. Fay better cut such root? sparingly at first thau courfc failure by mutilating If older trees aro not to be removed oufc or' position, tha roots may be cub more Hevereiy, bufc if to be removed it would be ndvisable to cub the roots ono season and lift the next. This latter plan is specially adviaable in the case of apples, pears, and apricots of any ago, but with two or three year old trr es I would do the work at once and replant carefully. In ca?e tha spil is dcy, the trench should be flooded before the trees are taken out of position, 'as if at all dry the soil will leave the fibrous roots, which are best retained. Iv cutting roots make a clean cut from the under side upward. This will caute the new roots to grow on tha level or upward instead of going deep down into unsuitable soil. Any small roots iv the least bruised by the spado should be shortened back, and in replanting well ram the soil under the tree. Avoid large lumps of soil resting on the fibrous roots, and shake the trees alter lifcing to keep in position. In replanting keep the roots nearer the surface, as moisture given is more readily absorbed, and a light mulch after lifting will be beneficial.— G. Wythes, in tho Field.