WEST COAST EXPLORATION.

Otago Witness, Issue 2199, 23 April 1896, Page 50

WEST COAST EXPLORATION.

Bt TaoSi Hacxekzic.

NO. YI.— FOBCED HABCK AND THE EBTTjfiB" TO THfl COAST.

My last week's cotes described our crossing the main river and settling down lor the nightin the small tent with smaller fly. It rained 1 all that night, and the morning of the sth Feb»ruary broke wet and misty. The main river was up 2cfc and quite unf ordable ; the branoli j below us was also high. Two of the party tried to make headway through the lagoon flata up the river, while two others went a little way op the tiibutary and tried to cross it by cutting trees, but were unsuccessful, as were the others who tried the lagoony land. We were simply jammed on all sides, and must await the rivers falling. We therefore rested from midday iv tho tint, and supped on porridge, which if quite adequate for light work ; but unless ona has been used to subsisting on porridge, and can consume hujje quantities, it is poor stuff to depend on for hard graft. Mr Henry wa< uneasy about the place we occupied, and as we had only three days' food he advised sending back to No. 3 camp for fresh supplies, adding that unless a party has quite a month's stores ! and good camping ground their lives are not! ! worth much ia such a country. Fortunately raiu ceased during the night, and the rivet fell,- but not low enough for safe fording ; still two managed to cross, while the others pushed on inland. We found good travelling ground along the brink of the river, and cro3«ed ' many creeks coming through the mcraaa*. Tha soil, if drained, is exceedingly rich, but not great in extent. Two miles of cutting brought) us to another ford, and at that point boating may be said to stop. Regarding the possibility of using the river' for boating, the lake, which is about five and a-half to six miles from the sound, can be reaohed by that method. There are three rapids, past which the boat can be earned. The other rapids cau be' tracked. At tho lake, on tha left-hand side goiog up, «?« found a placa where " a boat can be launched. A light skiff or dingey is all that could be taken, and some strong men would require to carry it a comiderable die* tance— say 500 or 600 yards along past the big cataracts— aud lower it down % cliff into tha lake. The l»ky can then b? or s°ed — distance abont two miles ; then about 400/ ds beyond to the first ford, over which the biat Can ba tracked. Two voiles more will finish the water which is worth ming for that means of locomotion. We pushed on that day and did a deal of exploring, tho weather being dry, and returned to No. 4- camp ab about dark, very tired indeed. We had still three clear diy« before tha Hin'-moa was due, aud I was moat anxious to niakd the very bes 1 * of tha time yet remaining, it being my great desire to go to Manapoari and p-^rfectlj connect with our 189* explorations, but no prudent c-nuss was open to us except to fall b*ck on the Hiuemoa. I almost quits give up the id'-a of seeing anything of flic Ohanubsrlain from tka Maaapouri side, and although I had not h-exrd from Mr Afurrell as to whether a boat would be lefh for us at the mou^l) of the Sjiey tiv.r, M-»napourj, still I had sent him a code of signals to uso at certain places were he \n accornj^jjy Mr Chamberlain.' The weather, however, proved so dreadful that, even if they had left, owing to the mists and. snows on the higher tops, the flags would ba uteless—even if we were curtain of our position, which I was not, although until ihe previous day Mr He'it"> wan q >ite sure that £be valley we w*re foll'Mving up was t.he same a< that mapped ia by cm party in 1894-. Our position \vt».s therefore reduced to this. Mr Chamberlain h&d evidently not started to join us. We. had no iuforos&tfoa that a boab wmld be left for us. If wa go ovt-r and fiad no boat there, it will be quite impcsvible for us to get down the rocky Bide« aud ctOis the rivers coming into Mim*p'\uri, and our food supply would bs barely sufficient to take us back to the co*st *gain— unless fine wether prevailed— and even were we to reach the coast tha Hinemoa would be gone. I therefore reluctantly decided that we musfe finally full back <n\ tbe Hinemoa. As I have said, we hid tstill three c ! e*r daj» available, which I wished ro tcake the best use of. If the woa'bec only held decently good for 48 hours and tha river did not rise higher, we might push inland further, and by a forced march recross the big ford and make down to the coast. I therefore settled that we would risk it and pu<<h on. A drizz'o set in about 10 p.m. Mr Henry decided to return to the sound. A careful note of tha changes in the river had been token, and when morning broke we found it wa« still for<l*ble. Mr Henry was up at dawn (4 a.m.), and was for being oil before taking breakfast, but I persuaded him to bave a pannikin of tea and something solid be f ore leaving, whioh proposal he 3 greed to. Mr Henry felt persuaded that if ! bad weather set in no power could take us off, and he thought it wise to proceed to the mouth, I so that in the event of any emergency arising be could bring a boat's crew up from the Hinemoa. This was a -great comfort to us. We had no doubt about Mr Henry reaching tha sound all right. The great danger was ia crossing, and that would occur at our camp. After gettiug over^a woll-deflned track took him along. AU the creeks and rivers ware bridged, except Waterfall creek, and Mr Henry would get his boat above the rocky precipice and row down pact the cliffs aud over the deep creek. Our gear now began to show signs ef wear. Bisbop had great manual difficulty in persnad* irsg his "breeks" to continue a partnership, Ross was nearly through his boots, while tha soles of my best cookhams had absolutely parted company from the uppers, and bad to be thrown away. Fortunately I had a lighter pair in my swag, out of which I knocked a week's wear. Shortly after Mr Henry started we struck camp and away we went. Borne ol our bridges erected yesterday were difficult to negotiate. One of our party, who had during the enterprising days of his childhood fallen from a roof, gave as great amusement. 1 believe that nothing on earth short of one of our-own-make bridges would daunt him. When the near approach of one was announced he would beoome uneasy — too absorbed for any of his mates to indulge in foolish chaff. When the bridge was reached— -usually a crooked, slippery tree over a deep creek— every asßisfr. ance was given by hand, pole, or rope. When tha bold explorer was. about four-fifths over suddenly tbe woods and hills would, resound with " Can't we do it ! " " Talk about bridges," "Blondin was nowhere to us," " Don't we astonish the natives," and so on. And this was kept up until it was hinted that another stream would soon have to be crossed* About 11 o'clock we reached a place where ire decided to camp. Here we divided into two parties— one to go on and explore the main river and then go towards Broughton Arm, tha other to fix camp and explore inland. _ A little beyond where we were the river onca more became confined within rocky gorges; %vag toward* tbe west ia (be direction &

Broaghton Aim appeared a possible pass. A considerable branch came in through it, joining the main river, after running parallel to it, about a mile above our camping ground. Five huge mountains guarded the head of the valley. Between two of them a grand waterfall cams tumbling over in one perfect leap ; very like the Stirling Falls in Milford. The river broke into ft series of cataract*, about 200 ft high, in leaps of 20ft, over huge masses of granite and rock— a churning, seething torrent. Above the cataract the river was forded with great difficulty, bat before that spot was reached much rough and dangerous climbing along rocky crags was done. After crossing, an ascent was made of about 2000 f t. to obtain a view. The work was exceedingly difficult owing to the slippery state of the rocks aud the very scanty and loose vegetation to cling to. The rope had very frequently to be need. Above the cataract the river took a bend away to the' E.N.8., and then proceeded in a northerly direction again. The contingent remaining behind at the camp explored inland, their object being to follow a stream coming in near the camp, and crossing behind a low pyramidical shaped hill of about 1500 ft to 2000 ft joining tho main river above. The time, however, at their disposal was not sufficient to enable them to thoroughly do the work. It vru. lute before all hands were back to camp. After a very heavy day we all were glad to turn in to resb at an early hoar. While pitching the tent a beautiful native thrush put in an appearance and remained with as ahtil we struck camp. He became exceedingly friendly and would almott hop on to our .knee). .The plumage, of the bird is very fine : he is a rasset brown and finely marked. Bis tail is of a deep red colour, and. he has* a pretty eye. His song is very sweet and flute-like. Hys habit is to hop about and take short flights. At one time this bird was very numerous, even about Mount Cargill and Fine Hill, and some 18 years ago flocks might often be met with at C&tlins river. It haunts the undergrowth and margins of rivers. We saw several yellow wattle crows. He also belongs to the ground bird in habit ; is a beautiful deep slaty colour, _ with fleshy wattles of an orange hue springing from the angles of his month. Buller describes his song as a long-drawn organ -like note of surpassing depth and sweetness. These birds, according to Buchanan, have a singular habit; of hopping along through the f crest in Indian file fashion, crossing every stick and stone in exactly the same way. I have often observed the same habit when I met them in numbers behind Milford Sound. I saw only one specimen of the eaddleback— a bird so called because of the peculiar marking on its back exactly lika a saddle. It is tbout the size of a bell bird, of glcsay black plumage, with the ruddy brown cover across the back and down the tides like raddle flaps. It belongs to the siuae family as the orange wattle crow. In previous outings I have often watched these singular birds. Tht,y hop* ab^ut quickly from twig to twig, climbing saplings or supplejacks spirally. During the spuing season, when nittiDg, I have noticed the couple* keeping their bills together as they ascended same vine, the male bird occasionally singiug a pretty song to bis mate in a low, soft strain of exquisite sweetness. It is sad to think that year by year thece lovely denizens of onr forests are becoming rarer and rarer, and that, soon, all too soon, our thrush aud our yellow wattle crow and sa.cldieba.ck will all be numbered with cur extinct, species; they will follow our native quail and takahi, and will soon be joined by the roa, kiwi, kakapo, and Maori hen. The paradise duck may survive a little longer, bat I am afraid all are docmed to extinction. Whether oar native pigeon a*;d k*ka will long survive is open to doult. I was under the impression until lately that those undesirable immigrants the ferrtts and weasels confined their horrid work to the surface of mother earth. Recently, to my great regret, I had a well authenticated case reported to me of a weasel being fonud'in a bird's nest high up a smooth bluegum tree. What chance, therefore, can oar pigeons and Uakas have with these vile climbers P Just one word before leaving the subject of birds relative to the protecting of kabas. These birds subsist largely on insects and their larva, The k&ka is the bird which in ear country performs the work done by the woodpecker in Great Britain. The exact value of oar kaka in the economy of Nature in preserving cur fine native timbers may not yet be ascertained and estimated. That he is a great grab and insect destroyer is established ; that lie is useful is beyond doubt; and that he •hould be always protected, like the tuis and hnias, is certainly most desirable. Of course if the s»me wanton destruction of oar valuable forests by the agency of axe and fire is to continue that has ditgraced this colony for so many years, then no voice need be raised nor pen used to protect or preserve anything. We are, however, in hopes that seme day soon a more enlightened policy regarding oar forests will be followed, when vandalism will be stopped, and when some consideration will ba given the requirements' of posterity and some attention paid to the valuable climatic influence of forest Land.

At this camp we were attonished, when walking on the river beach, to find traces of rabbits, and presently we saw a bunny ■cumpering away into some low-growing tutu. We quickly put Darky on the scent, tut he did' not succeed in catching him, which really did not signify much, as he would not make headway in that valley. The probability is that he was brought down by-some flood. During the night we were greatly alarmed at hearing the tain begin again, and it continued for some time. We feared that the river would rise and prevent our crossing at the big ford. We were up with the first dawn of day, packed everything with the greatest despatch, and left, forcing our march down to the ford, which we crossed all right, and after a toilsome day we reached our pitched camp at the outlet of the lake, where, after drying out riotb.es, we rested for the night. The most careful observations were taken to-day, and all the distance stepped. From this camp our loads very greatly increased, as we had brought a good supply of clothing and camp equipment here, and we had each to take back a heavy swsg. We reached the cliffs at midday, and scaled them all righb by the aid of the rope we had left hanging there on onr way op. About 200ydi above the cliffs we found an old tetara tree with Maori cuttings. I had the piece hewn out and added to my swag. I think the Maoria used this as an overland rout© to the interior. Just below the cliffs a very beautiful petrel was found near the liver. ~ It had just fallen, the outer pinion of it* wing having by some means been dislocated. We had to go very carefully past come of the Tocke, having but scanty vegetation to hold on by, the deep river sweeping on immediately below; the weight o£ our swags occasionally nearly toppling as over at we passed along a narrow ledge barely the width of ourselves under tome overhanging cliff. Waterfalls creek we crossed on two trees which had fallen into the river. We reached the main camp •boat 6 p.m., where Mr Henry was awaiting ns with everything Dice and comfortable. He had a grand fir* going, aad had all ready to cwJdng eeme of we sound's saort delicious

fish. Nothing could exoeed his kindness. He got our supper ready while we were changing oar wet clothes. It had been raining steadily since mid-day, and we were wet indeed. We spent a most comfortable night. Mr Henry had to tell us his experiences since we parted, and we had to tell him all that befell us, Then we had long yarns about the Maoris, the habits of birds, &o> If one could reproduce the stories told around the camp fire it would make most interesting reading. (To be continued.) i