THE FIRST COMPLETE ASCENT. OF MOUNT COOK.

Otago Witness, Issue 2151, 16 May 1895, Page 12

THE FIRST COMPLETE ASCENT. OF MOUNT COOK.

A NEW ROUTE FROM THE HOOKER SIDE.

Mb T. C. Fyfe's Account. The history of Mount Cook from an Alpine climber's point of view is now pretty well known to Now Zealanders, so that in recording the first complete ascent of the mountain it is only necessary to very briefly allude to previous expeditions. To the Rev. W. S. Green, who viwted New Zealand in 1882 for tho Bpeoial purpof c of ascending the peak, belongs all the oredit of the initiation of Alpine climbing in New Zealand, and one cannot say too much in praise of his difficult expedition in company with Boss and Kaufmaun in the early days, when there were no coaches, no tracks, and no Hermitage or Tasman Hut to offer friendly shelter to the weary or storm-bound traveller. Mr Green did not quite reach the summit of the mountain, and ever since then a number of New Zealand climbers — mostprominent amongst whom maybe regarded Mr G. E. Mannering, of Chribtchurch, aud Mr M. J. Dixon, of North Canterbury — have been striving for the honour of the first ascent. Early in the present season a party, comprising Messrs Dixon and Malcolm and Kenneth Boss, staitad with the okject of making the apcent of the highest peak by way of Green's route. The first attempt resulted in failure, owing to tho very severe weather txperit'iiced st the Bivouac at % high altitude. A few days later the bow Brothers and Dixon were joined by myself and Graham ; but we were again unfortunate, aud from one cause or auother tbe peak still defied us. On one occasion we got within 200ffc of the 6umtuit, bub turned, as there stemed some doubt of there being sufficient daylight left to enable us to reach the summit and get out of our ice 6teps above the Linda Glacier before nightfall. A final unsuccessful attempt by Gr.-en's roufe was made by Dr Cox, Messrs Dixon, Graham, and the writer, and at length, as the other members of the party had to return to their general avocations, there were only Graham and myself left. Though most of the preceding climbers had followed closely in Green's route, and Green himself had been dissuaded by Dr Yon Haast from trying for a route on the Hookor side, I held to the opinion that a pr.ctical way to the summit might be found from the upper part of the Hooker Glacier. Accordingly, on the mornpg of December 11, about a dk nth after our arrival at Mount Cook, Adamson (of the Hermitage) and I left for ft preliminary exploration of the Hooker side of the mountain. Havirg nothing but a camera and a little food to carry, we romped along quickly, reaching the first ice-fall by 9 a.m. We had t.omo little difficulty in crossing several of the crevasses — one, which had fallen in, we descended into and cut steps up the opposite lip ; but greater difficulty was experienced in crossing tbe debris of an avalanche which had apparently" fallen from the E-nprcss Glacier. To walk erect was impotsible, and our only means of progress was by crawling on ell fours —-very trying soit of work. The bergsobruud below Harper's Saddle was reached aud crossed by 2 p.m., and then an hour's laborious step-cutting up an extremely steep ice-slope— hand-holes having to bt cut iv places — brought us out on the crest of the ridge some 100 ft Ligher than the actual saddle. This saddle, 8500 ft above sea level, was first "done" by A. P. Harper — the firit secretary of the New Zealand Alpine Club— after whom it is named. It leads over on to the La Ferouse Glacier, one of the principal feeders of the Cook river, flowing into the West Coast;. On our way up I had eagerly scanned the mountain and had picked out two pof sible routes whereby 1 thought the Btuamit of Aorangi might be reached. The more feasible way viewed from Harper's Saddle appeared to be to reach the westt-.ru spur of the lowest er most southerly peak, and then from that point to follow along the tidge over the middle pe&k, and thus up to the top of the highest pe>k. The other route, and the one by which we ultimately reached the top, was to keep up the Hooker Glacier to its termination, np a nastylooking couloir to what has been called Green's Saddle, on the grett Tasman aiete, and then to follow the ridge of the latter to the eummit. The greatest difficulty of this route appeared to b« a largo " bergschrund " at tho head of the glacier. B^rgschruods are great chasms in tho ice, which usually occur at the head of inowfields. Besides being of great width — often from 30ft to 40ft— they are made much more formidable by tbe upper lip standing much higher than tbe other, with heavy overhanging eaves. Snow bridges often form across these figures, by which they may be crossed ; but, failing these, they are sometimes insurmountable. We had not sufficient time to reach this point and investigate, bo 1 there and then decided to first try the western spur of the lowest peak, and after making a few exposures with the camera we started homewards at 3.30 pm. We were very hungry ; nnd alas ! we had ta'en all our inpplies. Never shall I forgeb the joy I experienced on finding the bone of a fowl which I had picked «ud thrown away coming op, but now waa content to suck all the way home ! The hotel, after a long, broiling day, was reached same time pswt midnight. Our faces we r e terribly burnt with ths sun. So painfal were they that even to smile was impossible, and any would-be joker was im-mediaU-ly silenced iv a most effective if not an altogether playful manner. On December 1G Graham and I left the Hermitage lste in the afternoon, and, ktcpiug iloLg the Hooker track for six miles, ct-in^ed on tbe left of Fairb.tuk's creek. TLis place — which as a camping ground was all that one conld desire — we afterwards made our headqu^rtsrs. A light n< r'-wester had been Wowing all day, and as the sun sot it inoevsed and brought much rain. Tho rain continued to fall at intervals next day, and, m being

cooped up in a 7 x 5 tent with nothing bo do but smoke is not very conducive to good spiiito, we grew ill-natured and growled at everything. Graham went out several tirri'S. and vented his pent-up feelings in vain efforts to murder a solitary kea, which, wheeling round in circles, screeched so derisively at him that he vowed he would devote the rest of his life to the extermination of the epecieß. Tho morning of the 18th broke fine, and as wo wntch' d the nri^ts gradually rite higher and higher, revealing the peaks of first one and then •Bother giant ruoun'aiu, our spirits began to rise woud< rfully also. To be even alive on such a morning at such a place gives one a feeling of happiness and contentment dear to all lovers of nature. We decided to spend that day reconnoitring, and leaving the camp at 9 a.m. we kept along the lateral moraine for about a quarter of a mile before turning on to the glacier. Expecting to fiud the crevasses of the Hooker mnch worse than they were on our first reconnoitring expedition, we carried oloDg somn branches of scrub, inter, diug to leave them bit by bit to mark the bes-t route. The first ice-fa.ll brought us to d.fficulties ; snow bridges by which Addmson and I Imd crossed wero entirely gone, and the crevasses were all much more open. This Hooker Glacier breaVs up very early in tho season, and the great number of longitudinal and transverse crevasses which intersect and form equ&re-toppcd towers of ice called feracs makes it very difficult; to get over. After two hours' threading in and out we got through the worst ica-fitll, and then the glacier was comparatively easy walking. Reaching a point directly opposite Baker'a Saddle, we turned off from the main glacier on to a long Miow-flopo lying between the Empress and No< Uine Glaciers. What we most desired was to find a suitable place for a bivouac at as h'gh an elevation as possible, and with thi3 obj' ct in view we directed our steps towards the top end of a rib oF rocks, the height of which was about 6500 ft. Reaching this, we found that the top was covered with small scree or stones, and would, with a little levelling, afford us some shelter for anight. It was still early in the day, so, after a short rest, we a6ceuded for another hour to get a batter view of the upper snowflelds of the Empres9 Glacier coming down from Mount Cook. We could from our standpoint see almost the wholo rculo, and concluded that the only doubtful part was the Upper rocks under the first peak. Our descent to the Hooker Glacier was delightfully rapid and pleasant. Tho snow boiiig in pt-rftcfc condition, we glissaded the whole way, shooting scores of small creva'seain great stjle. This glissading or shooting down a snow slope is very exhilarating, and sometime slopes that have cost hours of hard work in stfp-cnttiDg coming up may be descended in a few minute*. On our way down the Hooker Glacier we agreed to explore the right sidd for a bt-ttor route. Borne avalanche debris from the Moorhouße Range that choked up the fisNuros on that Bide was tempting, but the line of route was dangerous on account of the likelihood of a fall occurring at any niJtnent. Hawever, we found that we could pass so qaickly over the dangerous part that the rick was reduced to a minimum and we always afterwards used this route. We reat hed Fairbanks creak at 6 p.m., and after a refreshing dip in its cold waters (its temperature generally being under 38deg Far.) we were soon fast asleep on our luxurious couoh of snow-grass. Our programme now was to bivouac on the rib of rock we had chosen, and then the following day make our assault; on the peak. The weather was so sfttled next day that we decided to do without a tent, aud, each taking a blanket aad food Buffi "ient for two days, we reached our bivouac at 4- 30 pm. Whilst Graham boiled the billy I levelled off a spot about Gft by 4ft. Thi» was sheltered on one side by a large rock, and we protected it on the other by building a break-wind. The surroundings of this our second bivouac were wonderfully grand and impressive. As I lay snugly wrapped in my blanket I could just see the topmost tip of Aorangi peeping ov<?r a ragged spur, appearing in its immaculate purity againat the d^ep blue sky like a bit of cloud. Then St. David's D)tne, with its sott, beautiful curved, fo'-m^d quite a contrast to Mouut Stoltco, from whose precipitous sideß tho avalanches naver ceased to fall. Immediately below us, and strttching away up to the very summit of Aoraugi, lay the Bmprr S3 Glacier, a picture on which the eye never tired. Falling over an alc:o3t perpendicular wall of rock it joins the Hooker — a wonderful mass of £<Srac iee — which, lit by the d^pirting sun, showed the most exquisite colours imaginable. I was early astir, being as usual unable to sleep on the Ptt>all stones, and had the fire blf>z ; ng at 1.30 a.m. Heating some soup and m-king tea I hustled Graham out of th« blankets, and as the night was beautifully mild (34dfg. F) we s&t in perfect enjoyment at our early breakfast. The fist streaks of d&wn appealed nt 2 45, and hastily roping we started off iv the dim light up the steps we had broken two days previously. Keeping a little above whero vre had turned on that occasion, we pasm d through a gap in the spur on to the nove" slopes of tho Empress Glacier. After crossing a crevasse on a rather frail snow bridge, we had several more to negotiate before reaching a long elope lying between tie tue western spur and an off shoot which runs in a more northerly direction. The snow was very hard, and step-* had to be chipped with the axe. Nesring the termination of this sbpe we took to tbe fpur, thinking it wo ild be quicker aud that wo Bh"iild 8 void some uasby -looking cracks rur-niuff right amss from side to I side 'I he a;ele bdcame so bid and irregular that we were saon forced to take the £lupe again. On coming to its head some slight difficulty was experienced in Cuding a r-l&cc to get on to U c spur ; but ouce gained, it proved good, aud for about 500 Ffc an easy grade. After this it became much steeper aud gradual i narrowed in to a sharp ridge. After Borne 2000 ft of reck climbing tho lowest peak came in sight, and at 10 30 a.m. we stood on the true western arete running up to tho same.

Wo had now the choice of catting steps up on to tbe crest of the arete or, by keeping down a little on the northern side, of skirting along the rocks. We ohoae the latter, and fonnd tint, although owing to their being partly buried in snow they wero difficult, still they were mnch easier and quioker than stepcutting. We had now been in the sun some time, aud a short halt was cried for " tucker." Vain efforts were made by oqo of the party to melt eouie snow, but even the sultry language ho indulged in had no effeot on its icy coldness. It is a strango sensation this, being surrounded by snow and ice, and, though "dying" for a drink, unable to obtain a mouthful. Skirting along theto pattly butiad rocks, aud cu'.ting a few step 3 here and there across slippery patches, nothing stopped us, and at 11 a.m. we stood on the highest rocks. Wo were now at an altitude of 11,700 ft;, and our prospects of doing the remaining 600 odd feet looked " rosy." From here it was necessary to descend about 430 ft to reach the saddle which Eoparaten the ikdt aud second peaks. This welud little difficulty in doing, good rouks running right down. Tho sun was now very powerful, and we took advantage of it to melt tho snow and drink to our hearts' content. Sfcep-cutting commenced ■ at a couloir which runs from the Empress Glacier right up to this col, and the axe waj kept steadily going uutil the summit of the middle peak was reached. On ncaring the crest of the arete we soon had ample evidence that it; was heavily corniced, the axe going right through whan we were several feet from j the edge. It may be here explained that a cornioe is a great cave of scow which projects over a mountain ridge, aud is due to the action of the wind. Cornices are most treacherous, and have to be avoided at any cost. Keeping, therefore, about 20ft away from the true crrsb, we cut steps along the faco of the icecap, thug practically making a long traverao. At 1 p.m. we stood on the top of tho saeond peak, only 176 ft lower than the actual summit of tho mountain. A glance and we saw that our chances of doiug the remainder were remote. Although only go little in actual height abjvo us, it was still a long way off, and the arete was so corniced, and took so many turns, that to "do" the summit would require a long traverse involving many hours' work. Hating the other route to fall back on, we decided not to expend our euergies further on this one, and so again calmly accepted defeat. The view from the second or middle p;ak was exoetdingly grand, and it would be presumptuous for me to attempt any description. Imagine river and lake, bush and plain, sea and sky, all blended together aud forming one vast panoramic picture, and some faint conception may be had of this entraucing view. Although we had not attained the topmost tip of Aoraugi we certainly had discovered an easy | and, more important fctill, a safe route to tho second highest point of the Soulhf ra Alp 3. So easy is this route that no d jubt it will in the near future become a favourite excursion with ! tourists. Shortly after 2 p.m. we started the descent, and carefully going down tho steps cut in the clear blue ice, soon lvgained the rocks. Stopping for some food on the highest rocks just b^low the lowest peak, Graham seized the opportunity j and built a cnirn, leaving a bottle in the centre. The descent down the rocks was slow and tireBonie, aud it was 5 p.m. before we struck the long snow slope. The snow was now in grand order, and we took full advantage of it by glissading almost all the rest of the way to the bivouac. The only stops that were necessary were when crossing some specially wide crevasse, or in making a traverse to get in a good unorevaflsed line. Where the slopes were not steep enough plunging through tho snow was the order of the day, and woe betide the man coming last on the repe if he made a false st«p, for he would immediately receive a jerk from his companion which, completely upsetting him, made him take an involuntary header into the snow. I have a vivid recolleotion of Graham's legs waving in mute supplication whilst he vainly tried t j extricate h's head and shoulders. All the smaller crevasses wore shot glissading. Whilst ehcoting one the rope somehow became entangled, and pulled one of the party up with a jerk just as he got fairly across the fissure, his feet resting on one edge and the back of his neck on the other. He wan quite equal to the occasion, however, for, stiffening himself, he lay with perfect oompouuro until assisted by his companion. The bivouac was reached without further incident at 6 p m., and hastily packing up our blankets, we glissaded to tho glacier below. Tue bad ice-fall was quickly negotiated, and striking a bee-line accoßS ths glacier, Fairbauk's creek camp was reached at 830 p.m. The weather had been perfect all day, but it now commenced to rain, and there was every appearance of rough weather, so that we decided to find our way down to the Hermitage that night. The track down is difficult enough to follow even in daylight, but by the feeble light of a ca-idle requires iufluit9 patience. Wo arrived at the Hermitage about 1 ! a.m , and after 21 houra' constant g >ii>g We were only too glad to turn into a comtortable bed. In our last expedition we were fortunate in being pined by youug Clarke, from the Hermitage, who had climbed with us last season, and whose enthusiasm gave new life to tho whole uff -*ir. Leaving the hotel with six days' supplies, we made onr first camp on the evening of the 22ud December, and got everything snug. Nexb day we toiled, painfully swagladen, through the ever-widtniug crevasse? to a second bivouac f arth< r up the glacier, narrowly escaping a fall of rocks thit catne bounding from the Moorhouse Range. We arrived soro and tired, although the actual distance covered and height gained vrere trifling. Little iucliued as we svere for another day's swagging, 10 a.m. next diy found us ag^in wearily plodding on our upward course. We pitched the tent under the l«-e of a huge block of ice that had apparently fallen from St. David's Dome at a height of about 8000't An arch was cut into this block, a break-wind built around, and so sheltered were we that I balieve we could have weathered c. severe storm. Leaving Clarke in camp, Graham and I proceeded up the ghcier with the double object of bre*kiog steps and of exploring the large bergschruud at its head. We kept to the true right of tha glacier going up, bu 1 ; found it very much creyassed and swept by avalanches from St. David's Domo and Mount Hector. We passed some enormous crevasses. Some we estimated as beiag fully 200 ft across and of great depth. Another uncommon thing so high up was a vertical shaft descending inti the glacier. Graham anchoring, I crawled to its edge and peered down, but could see no bottom, its blue sides shading away until lost in impenetrable darkness. i Two hoars brought us to the bergschrund, and our worst fears wore fully confirmed. No bridga of any description spanned its gaping depths. Our only chanco was to fiud a passage .where it ran out against tho rock faco of Aoraugi. Traversing to this we saw that it was possible to descend right into the bcrgsehrund aud reach the rocks at its cad. Tb/se Ipjked barely practicable We kept to the left side of the g'&cier going back, and found it much bioipler, only ouo crevasse of any coustqusnee having to bo dealt/ wit!). Our bleak bivouao

was regained just; as the sun flank behind Mount Stokes. After some food and a refreshing drink of hot tea wa lay down on our icy-cold couoh, fondly hoping to snatch a few hours' sleep. Vain hope 1 On goiug to rest at these high camps the usual plan is not to undress but to crowd on everything obtainable, and anyone leaving an article of clothing lying about is sometimes greatly surpri* ed at the mysterious manner in which it disappears at night, but always religiously turns up again iv the morning in time to be rolled into the owner's awaj. At 2 a.m. Graham, shivering and growling, arose to prepare breakfast. We had brought a good supply of dry flrewooJ from our firat camp, and breakfast was ready much tuo soon for Clarke and I, who wero making the moat of the blankets. Getting on our boots with great difficulty — they being turned, apparently, into something akin to cist iron — wo packed up everything we were likely to require, and, roping together, moved upwards at 3.15 a.m. The snow was very hard, but the steps we had broken the previous day were of great assistance, and an hour's climbing saw us standing on the lower lip of the bergschiund. Letting out the rope to its full length, one of the party descended into tho bcrgschruud and squirmed along the ledge of rocks as far as the rope would reach. Then the others crossed on to the rocks. Clinging as we were to a narrow ledge, with scarcely any hand or foothold, and with an almusfc perpendicular drop into the chasm below, our position was far from enviable ; and, as the leader slowly and with great difficulty made his way upward, a slip seemed, to say the least, not altogether improbable. Some snow lying on the lodgo hud to be shifted, and caused a little delay, and for 4-0 minutes the excitement and suspense were too intense to be pleasant. However, we managed to get across in safety. Above we found the snow hard, and we kept well against the rooks for handholds. This slope gradually converges into a deep luvine formed by the frowning crags of Aoraugi ou the one side and by Mount Hector ou the other. Begiuniug at Green's Saddle and running out in tho slopo just above the bergschrund, a rib of rocks divides this ravine iufco two narrow iccfilled couloirs. As we got higher up the amount of snow lying on the slope became less and lens, and at last the clear blue ice was reached. Cutting steps across a little branch couloir, we decided to croBS the couloir lying between us and the rib of rocks, aud to endeavour to keep along its ridgo. At first these rocks proved difficult, a rottOD slaty rook haviug to bo dealt with, but, they improved towards thwr top end. As we neared Green's Saddle the a< eoe of these rocks became very sharp, with precipitous sides, and iv two places was cappei with ice. We had to cut steps up the so placpfi, and without further bother reached a point a few feet bolow Green's Saddle at 8 a.m. Here wo were slopped by a bre<tk iv the rib which completely baned direct access to the saddle. Turning a little to tho left, we climbed np over what was perhaps the worst rock of the whole accent, on to the southern arete of Hejlor, and from thence descended to the Baddlo. The atete which ruus from here to the summit of Aorangi is, with the exception of one sKty stratum, composed of good, sound ro ks This slaty stratum, abjut 30ft iv height, was most difficult. Half-way up, the leading man got into difficulties, all holda being just beyoad hia reach, caunjug him to mako an awkward tr&verae by hand-holds only to a little chimney, up which he writhed his way. Above this, the goiug was good, and we rapidly rose. Looking back at 10.30 a.m., we could see that we wero far above all the surrounding peaks, and, although the top of Aorangi could not be seen, we knew it coul I voi be far dis'ant. One wnll of blate brought us to a standstill, aud we had to descend a few feet, leave bhe ridge, and work our way rouud the obstacle. The wiud was now piercingly cold and we were glad to muffle our faces in anything to protect them. A lew minutes' respite from its bitter blast and a slight snack were now very acceptable, and we climbed down to shelter on the sunny side. What with consulting maps and sketching, the " few raioutes " were prolonged into an hour and a-kalf, and it was jusb mid-day as we filed off upwards. At 12.30 the slope of the arete became easier, and eh irtly afterwards the fiual top appeared about; 400 ft above us. I am afraid that; the reckless way in which we romped over those last rooks was very foolhavdy, but one would indeed need to be phlegmatic not to get a little excited on such an occasioa. The slope of the final ice-cap was easy and only required about 100 step*, which were quickly cut, and at 1.30 on Chriet.rnag D*y we exultantly stepped on to the highest pinnacle of the monarch of the Southern Alps. Ihree principal aiete3 meet at the summit. The angles of two of them, the southern and northern, are fairly steep right to the summit. The other, the Tasman are:e, is an eiiy grade. The actual top consists of a sharp ridge si 'ping quickly north and south, a precipice on the eastern side, and a crcseat-shaped ice-cap running from the western side. Westward, our view was somewhat marred by clouds, but beyond the cloud* the coast line, especially towards the north, could be seen stretching mile after milo. Eastwards, owing no doubt to the great heat, there was a haze through which we could just discern the ocean. Southwards, towards the coast, wo saw a very high peak, which we took to be Mount Aspiring. Turning northwards we looked into the very heart of the Southern Alps. Range after range, and

peak after |peak in wild confusion impressed one with an almost overpowering sense of deso« lation and solitude. A phenomenon which, afl far as I can remetnbsr, has seldom previously been noticed in New Zealand, was the curvilinoar dirtbands exteuditig across the Taaman Glacier, which from this height were clearly visible. A shorb stay of 20 minutes only wa* made on the summit, and then leaving an old sugar bag spread on the ico-cap, with tbe idea of seeing it afterwards from the Se&ley Range with the aid of » glass, we started off down« wards. Tho first rocks were soon reaohed, and here we portioned out the remainder of our food. We also built a c&iro, leaving a tin oa which Graham scratched our names and the date. We left these rocks at 2 p.m., and kept closely to the way by which we ascended. We soon came to the steeper rocks. Now camo the real cliuabiog. The last m*n on these rocks descents has much the wort>t of it. In bad plases he must anrhor and assist tho others down, but of course can receive no assiatauoo himself. Green's Saddle was paaied by 5.20, and just as we got a tew feet below, a large avalauehe of rocks shot playfully past, making the very mountain tremble as they ricochetted from crag to crag down the mountain side, fragment), as when « ehiU bursts, leaping up. Going down tho slaty rocks near the couloir, Graham made a slight slip, and making & grasp to maintain his balance dropped hia axo into ono of the narrow couloirs. Down, down it slid, uutil at last it was luckily arrested by a lump of snow jusb on the edge ef a crevasse. At first wa could ccc nothing but to out steps down to it— a longinh job, — but afterwards thought of a plan whereby that labour m'ght ba avoided. Fixing the rope to a sound rock and lotting ib out to its full length, Graham lowered hinnelf 100 ft and just managed to grasp hia axe. His performances coming up, if not altogether graceful, were at least amusing. This delayed u» tho better part of an hour— a del&y that wo could ill afford, as it would loon be dark. When nearing the bergschrund an ominous, nofc-to-be-mistaken whir, above warned us that danger was coming. Grouching cl< se in to the rockn, several pieces of btone went pingiug over us at a pace that rendered them invisible and buried themselves feet deep in the soft suow. This particular place is in my estimation the only dtngerous part of the wholo route, but fortunately only so in the afternoon. All the way down I had boon anxious to get across the bergi-cbruud before dark, and, but for the dropping of Graham's axe, wa would hwa done so. It was with great uneasiness I saw that we should have to stand out all night or risk climbing down in the dark. Tho lattec was preferred. Too dark to see either hand or ■ foot-hulds, our sense of touch was all we h*d to rely on. One at a time we moved on, the other two endeavouring to anchor ; but, judging from the holds that I myself could obtaiu, a slip by one would have "done for" us all. However, the sohrund was left behind, and with it the greatest difficulties of the desc°n6. Now for the first time we gravely congratulated each oihor on the ascent and descent of Mounb j Co' k. Wo reached the bivouao tired and wefc, only to find that one side of air snow breakwind had fallen on to the fc«>nt and, melting, had eotkad everything. It w** very cold, and it ia not all juy pitching a tent with tha thermometer down to about 28Jeg. We bur md in supperless : no one volunteered to face the cold and melt, some snow.. So cold did wo become that at last we were forced to burn a candle io a tin can underneath the blankets, while the houra of darkucHS passed wearily away. Day dawned at last, and, hastily packing up, we plunged away down the glacier. We reached our ikat oamp at 7 a m., nnd were glad to rest till 10 30, meanwhile basking in the sua and making great inroads into a bag of oatmeal. A* we lay, idly watching the norfch-wes 1 ; clouds swirling overhead, our trials were all forgotton, and I regiettully thought — there is bub one j Aorangi.

Mr Donald M'Corquodalo, second pngineerol the Takapuua, re 1 ires to become connected with an Auckland roller mill. According to tho Hunterville Express pigs are allowed to invade the Kangatira cemetery, and in places thoe are holes a couple of fctiv deep, which the brutes have torn out in ordtr to get at the dead. The widow of the late Mr John Buchanan § C.E., one of the victims of the Yarra tunnel accident, is proceeding agaiust the Metro* polifcan Drainage Board for d images. Ii formation lus bren received that the owners of the Ashley Bank estate, Canterbury, have accepted the offer of the Government to purchase the property, which consists of 1158 acres. At Christ.church on Thursday Jwnes A. Srtlfe, *n old resident, wio is partially paralysed, was charged with unlawfully wounding one Partrid«o by biting off a piece of his nose. From the evidei.ee adduced it appears that the men were under tho influence of drink in a private home. A quar el tcok place betweeu them, in the cour«e ot which it; wns al'egf d that the injuries were sustain* d. Both m'n were con* bi.lei ably knockud about and bruine d. The defence wes that accus d commi'ted the act in self defence, as owing to his affl ction ho conld adopt no other means of saving himself. The accused was committed for trial — bail being fixed on his own recognisance for £50 and two sureties of £25 each.