MOUNT COOK: A HEALTH AND TOURISTS' RESORT.

Otago Witness, Issue 2027, 29 December 1892, Page 33

MOUNT COOK : A HEALTH AND TOURISTS' RESORT.

Bishop Moran having returned on Saturday night last from the Mount Cook district, where he had spent about 10 days, was waited upon on Monday afternoon by a member of our staff, who found him sunburnt and hearty and apparently in the enjoyment of the best of health. Though it was not so stated at the time of his departure from Dunedin, it was in quest of health that the bishop went to the Mackenzie country, hi which Mount Cook is situated, for, since an attack of la grippe '^in January last, he had teen a mai ty r to bronchitis, suffering agonies at times owing to the difficulty of obtaining breath. The trip was a most beneficial one for him, as on Monday he was, as his looks betokened, in the possession of perfect health. He was, nob unnaturally, enthusiastic in his praise of the country as a health resort, and he was not less enthusiastic in his references to the varied scenery which there is exposed to the view of the tourist. The scenery of New Zealand has baen frequently spoken of as one of its most valuable assets, and the testimony of Bishop Morau, who has had the privilege of seeiug very many of the beauty spots of the world, cannot be lightly regarded as to the value of this particular asset. "I have been in Switzerland several times," the bishop said, in answer to a query on this point, " I have been through the United States from east to west, I was in South Africa for years, and I have travelled a great deal in the various countries on the Continent, but I must say I never saw mountain scenery equal to— l do not say excelling— the scenery in the Mackenzie country, including Mount Cook. We "— (Bishop Moran had three companion^ on this trip) " went along and saw the whole of the scenery. Wo got a trap and a pair of smart, well-bred horses at Waimate, and drove from there to Timaru. On the next day we drove all the way to Burkes PaBS without any difficulty. The roads were in magnificent order, there were no hills, and even up the pass we were able to trot the horses most of tha way. On the following day we started early— at 7 o'clock— and gob over Burkes Pass. We did not require to leave the trap— the ascent was not difficult. Once we got to Burkes Pass we were 2500 ft above the level of the sei, in the Mackenzie country, and me mountain scenery nut us. The roads were excellent, and we drove to Lake Tekapo and across the suspension bridge at the lake. After breakfast we started for Pukaki, and we were driving along the plain all day till 6or 7 o'clock in the evening. As we went along the mountain scenery was magnificent— exceeding anything I h-ul ever seen anywhere in any country. At Way's creek, which is a beautiful stream, we stopped for about an hour and a-half and had luncheon, which we had taken with us. Here we had a magnificent view of Mount Cook— our first view of it. The day was perfectly clear, there was not a cloud in the sky, and we had a view of all the mountains to right and ltffc — some very lofty ones among them, up to 11,000 ft. There was Mount Cook, head and ehoulders above the others — 2000 or 3000 feet. It really deserved the name of Aorangi— che cloud piercer. I have seen Mount Blanc, and I do not think Mount Blanc equals it. That is my humble judgment. The plain through which we passed was occupied with sheep runs, but a great deal of it is woodland— land which would produce good crops. It is a fine dry country and healthy for sheep, I am sure. At Pukaki we stopped at the hotel for the night. Behind the hotel there is a litt'e rise, from which, when we went out, we had a full view of Mount Cook, 40 miles distant. It appeared to be rising out of the lake, but is 25 miles beyond. We were greatly favoured by the weather — there was nob a cloud in the sky, the sun was shining on the mountain. That was the most magnificent sight I ever witnessed. In the morning we crossed the Pukaki river in a punt and turned our faces towards Mount Cook, about 40 miles off. There were no difficulties in the road. Between Pukaki and Mount Cook the road is not so good in places, but it could be made good— it could bo made a perfectly level road if desired, but it is not a bad road. Tq show you that that is fo, we made the 40 miles, coming back between half-past 8 in the morning and about 3in the afternoon, with an hour's stoppage for luncheon. We were fortunate in having Mount Cook before us on the way up, though sometimes it was shut out from view, owing to the twistings of the road. When wo gob up to the new Glentanner station we had a a full view of the Tasman glacier, a wonderful country, extending for 18 miles, and the Murchison glacier. It was a magnificent sight— unsurpassed, I think. After a little white wo had a view of Mount Scfton, under which is the Mueller glacier, and between 6 and 7 o'clock we arrived at the Hermitage. After tea, 100 yards behind the hotel we saw Mount Cook from the foot to the highest pinnacle of its summit. There waß a ledge of ice lying along the side of the mountain— in places 150 ft deep, and in one place with a depth of 300£t of solid ice. Now we heard the sounds of the avalanches continued day and night, which were comiug down frequently with the roar of thunder and sometimes with a less loud rear. Just behicd the hotel is an old moraine, nearly 400 ft high; and on the other side is a gr6it deal of very beautiful busb, with a great many native flowers— it is very interesting from a botanical point view. The next day was wet, aud I did not stir out much, but was glad to get a day's rest. Saturday and Sunday were fine, nnd we went out and saw the Mueller glacier and the Hooker glacier, with, the Hooker river rushing direct out of it." The bishop and his party did not return by by the same road as that by which they went up to the Hermitage. It was necessary that they should retrace theii steps to Pukaki, but there they broke oft" and came by the Benmore station, Omarame, and Kurow, and down by the Waitiki. Not knowing that there was ph hotel at Omarama, they stayed for the first night at Bcamore, and asked the hospitality of the proprietor of the station, who received them most kindly. Their drive on the next day to Kurow was, Bishop Moran states, the least interesting part of their journey. The country was the mohfc barren they had passed through ; there was no grass upon it, but the sheep looked healthy. "I i\n not know," says the bishop, " what they are living on." As to Mount Cook as a health resort, the biehop said th's :— " I would recommend Mount Cook in fine weather for all invalids. Ib is a most healthy place, with a charming, delicious ak— not too hob. We were lucky in the weather, however— the days were so dry, there were uo high winds and no fogs, and there was not even a little gossamer ckml in the ski-js. One day was wefc, bub we were in the hotel then. I daresay in bad weather it would not be so agreeable. Of course., we had our own trap and we did not distress the horses, the same pair bringing us back and being perfectly fresh. Travelling by public conveyance, a person goes by railway to Fairlie Cteek, and a coach leaves next morning and makes the whole journey of 90 miles to Mount Cook in one day. That would be distressing for invalids. Tha stages are — gairlie Creek to Burkes Pass, 12 elites (breakfast) ; to Tekapo, 24 miles ; to Pukaki,

52 miles (lunch) ; and bo the Hermitage, 90 miles (dinner). It is nob necessary, though, to go the whole distance iv one day, as there are very good hotels at Burkes Pass, Tekapo, and Pukaki, where people could stop if they were fat'gued. At the Hermitage there is a large hotel, and a very good cne iudeed. The accommodation is very good and so is the servica, and there is a very reasonable tariff. I would particularly recommend those who are suffering from chest diseases to make a trip to Mount Cook in the fine weather. They need not climb — you can see the glaciers and formations wibhoub climbing ab all. If you like to go to the Tasman glacier you can, bub I do not know thab muoh more information can be thus derived than by ' mouching ' about the Hermitage. A walk of a mile and a-half bring 3 you iuto full view of the glacier, and less than that brings you inbo view of the Hooker glacier, with the Hooker river rushing out of it, a fullbodied river. Mr Huddlesbon, the proprietor of the Hermitage, is full of information ; he is quite a mountaineer, and is very obliging. Of course you can obtain a guide. \ If people are adventurous and want climbing they can put themselves into safo hands."

Bishop Moran sums up bis opinion respecting the scenery in these words: — "As for the mountain scenery and the glacier scenery, in my humble judgment it is nob surpassed in Europe or America. Ido not know about the Himalayas in Asia, but I am quite convinced that it is not surpassed in Switzerland," The impression prevails to a cortu'n extent that the Mount Cook district is inaccessible, but it will ba gathered that this is entirely an erroucous impression ; while the notion that a trip to that portion of the colony necessarily involves " roughing it "' is also quite fallacious.