A TRIP TO THE HOME COUNTRY.

Otago Witness, Issue 1933, 25 February 1892, Page 33

A TRIP TO THE HOME COUNTRY.

By R. Chishoui.

On the Wednesday morning I took train From Waverley station for Earlie in Fife. Crossing the Forth bridge I saw the North fleet lying at anchor in the Forth, which at the time was as placid as a mill pond. A grand and most impressive sight they were, lying in two lines a short distance from the bridge— 11 in each, and so far &• I could judge about 50yds apart, while the lines were about 200 yds distant from each other. Such a sight is seldom seen, and the famous bridge with all its attractions was second to the magnificent lines of battle ships. I stopped for an hour at the Lang Toun, Kirkcaldy, and visited the factory of Michael Nairn and Co., the famous floorcloth manufacturers. Unfortunately for me their works were closed on account of their employes having a holiday (which I hope they enjoyed, as workmen have not tho leisure here that they have in the colonies), so that I did not see tho process of manufacturing going on. I was, however, much impressed with tho gigantic proportions of their factory, and the kindness of the principal and others I there met. Arriving at Easlie station I was met by Mr V., a kind-hearted old gentleman, whom I had gone there specially to see. Easlie is a nice little village skirting a bay on the Forth, and is growing in importance as a resort for holiday seekers from Edinburgh. It is a favourite watering place, and is besides historically interesting. Many years ago, when Fife was a sort of independency, Lord M'Duit saved himself by hiding in a cave, which I saw. As a thank-offering for his deliverance he restored a little chapel built in 1093. The <*able and portion of the walls still stand to mark the spot. I spent a few hours in pleasant converse with Mr and Miss V. Our eloquence seemed to raise inspiration in the old man, who, looking to his daughter with a smile, said, "Weel, Kate, I think wee'l better be a wee careful what we say, for may be There's a cbiel here takin" notes, And faith he'll prent them."

As I had not then the remotest intention of publishing any part of my notes, I assured them they might allay all fear on that score. I cannot therefore repeat the most interesting story, to which I listened to with wrapt attention, of how a very bashful lover (well known and justly respected in Dunedin) wooed and won his daughter. The walk through the village and •back along the beach in such company to me was extremely pleasant, and I returned to Edinburgh delighted with my trip to Easlie. Next morning, after parting with my kind friend Mr Cameron, to whom more perhaps than to any other since my arrival here I shall ever feel grateful, I left Edinburgh, arriving in Stirling a aout 1 o'clock. After a walk of about two miles to Craig Mill I had little difficulty in finding the residence of Mr E. On walking up to the door you can imagine my delight when I was met at the threshold by Mr B. As we had not seen each other since we parted in London a few days after my arrival, the greetings were hearty and mutual. Mr E. and his brother, who is here on a visit from Dunedin, were both soon upon the scene, and welcomed me most heartily. There we were, four from Dunedin, New Zealand, met together in a snug house in Craig Mill, near Stirling, and a lively time of it we had. After expressing our appreciation of our host's kindness, and indulging in a cheery chat, we proceeded to the Wallace monument, which is erected on the .summit of a prominent rise called Abey Craig. Steep and rocky on two sides, gently sloping and covered with forest trees on the other si^es, it presents a wedgelike appearance. Craig Mill lies at the foot^ of the slope, and is a nice cosy place. The Wallace monument is a bold, massive piece of masonry, and from a distance it looks like the ruin of some fine old castle. I think it will be about 20ft square and over 100 ft high. The top is reached by a circular staircase in one corner, which also connects with the various rooms as you ascend. These rooms are appreciated as places of rest on the upward journey, and forms are provided for the accommodation of visitors. The acoustic properties of one of these was severely tested by us to the song, " Scots wha hae wi' Wallace bled," our national enthusiasm being fired by the sight of the hero's sword that lay before us with this description on the case: The sword that seemed fit for Archangel to wield was light in his terrible hand. The day being clear, the view from the top was grand. As far as the eye could see on either side were rich green fields, relieved by fine belts and clumps of trees, with little villages here and there sleeping in their shade and shelter, while the Forth, like a huge silver serpent, pursues his zig-zag course to the sea, the whole forming a magnificent picture on which the eye loves to rest. Leaving the monument, which cannot now be fully described, a good walk brings us to Stirling Castle, which in many respects resembles Edinburgh Castle, only much smaller. Although the elevation of the castle is lower than that of the Wallace monument, it commands a splendid view of the surrounding country. Away iv the distance can be seen the locale of Bannockburn, but that spot is of too much historic interest to be viewed from a distance, so jumping into a conveyance, kindly provided by Mr E., we were soon at the " Bore Stune," where Bruce planted his standard that saw the tide of the battle turn in Scotland's favour. A fine iron flagstaff has been raised to mark the memorable spot. In the evening we visited a farm owned by a family one of whose members is resident in Dunedin. After spending a pleasant hour a good stiff walk was averted by two young ladies volunteering to drive me to Stirling. I thought it wag too much, but they persisted, and I was of course delighted to be so honoured, and thus pleasantly terminated an enjoyable visit to Stirling. We left in the morning for Glasgow. During the day I took a stroll down to the Broomielaw to see the place where 32 years before, when quite a lad, I for the first time cast eyes on a ship— the vessfil that was to convey us over old ocean to fair Zealandia. Seeing an excursion steamer about to sail down the Clyde, I stepped on board. It being fair time, we had a full complement of passengers. I felt a good deal interested in a conversation I heard going on between two mothers evidently from the country, who knew each other well, and whose chief concern was (motherlike) their boys, who were at work in Glasgow. " Oh, woman," said the first, "it's an awfu 1 temptation to the laddies livin' in a sinfu' place like this ! " To ■which her consoler replied, " Weel, weel, if they dae gan wrang it's no for the want o' preachin' and quid advice." With my handkerohief against my nose and unkind thoughts pissing through my mind about the "sinfu'" ness," not of the city, but of the bailies and provost for allowing the beautiful Clyde to become a dark sewer, we were off down the five*. The ship-building yards, with their forests of tall genffoldjng polcg, wid vesoclg of all siwa Ulonglng to many nations, wer« Bctme» of life trad ftt-tivityi forming ft fl»« «<-'uvr*!tt t« tbu

quiet seaside residences, and beautiful landscape stretching as far as the eye can see on either side. Dumbarton Castle, Heleiisburgh, Gaurack, Dunoon, aud other picturesque spots are passed, and we reach "Fair Rothesay Bay." Crossing to Wemyss Bay on the other side, I took train, and in a few hours was back in Glasgow.

Next morning I went to Stirling to meet Mr 8., and together we started for the north, passing Dumblane and the Banks of Allan (spots dear to tho memory of our national bard), with the grand old Ochil Hills on our right, we were soon ia Perth. Proceeding from Perth through the Carse of Gowrie, we got a fine view of the famous Tay bridge, which is surpassed only by the Forth bridge as a marvel of engineering skill. After a short stay in " Bonnie Dundee," a nice little manufacturing town, the line skirts the Firth of Tay and North Sea as far as Arbroath, joining the main line at Guthrie Junction. Here we were detained, waiting the arrival of the north train. At Dubton Junction, a little farther on, we had to change trains, as we had resolved to spend an hour or so and lunch at Montrose. Strangers in a strange little town, with appetites whetted by the journey and the fresh sea breeze, we determined to have the best that Montrose could produce, so on a foraging expedition we went. Meeting a man we asked him if he could direct us to the best place in the town where we could have lunch. Subsequent events showed that he did not fully grasp the idea conveyed to our minds by that word, aud turning round in the direction of the quay, pointing to a good-sized plate glass window, he said : •' Do yon see that big winuock ? "—"" — " Yes." — " Weel, that's a quid place." Hurrying along I was the "first to enter, followed closely by my stalwart companion, Mr B. You can imagine > our horror, when from behind a curtain emerged a dirty little woman with a child in her arms as dirty as herself, and nothing in the shape of eatables to be seen but a few stale buns and old meat pies, not at all inviting, I confess. In settlement of an old score Mr 8., in colonial phrase, was to "shout" lunch. Addressing the woman, he said : " Can we have anything to eat here?" — "Yes." — "What have you got ? "—"" — " Buns, muttop pies, fruit tarts," giving me a suggestive look. — " What do you say ? "—"" — " We will try a mutton pie." — " Very good " ; and pulling aside a curtain, with considerable difficulty we squeezed ourselves between a form, about 6in, aud a table about 12in wide. The compartment was so narrow that I had a decided advantage over Mr 8., who had a difficulty in finding accommodation for his lower limbs. The pies brought, with a spoon that had seen better days we raised the upper crust. The flavour was, however, too satisfying; our appetites had fled, and we under the circumstances felt more inclined for fun than a feast, so placing the pies one on top of the other, we set them aside. The fruit tarts, being the next in order, only helped to raise our miniature structure. Calling for a cup of tea and a bun, the last item in our mental menu, the cups and saucers served for the base, and the remnants of the buns for the copping of a miniature Eiffel Tower, the only standing memorial of our visit to the city of Montrose. They say "It's an ill wind that blows .nobody good," and on this occasion Mr B. gob off very easily, as our united effort cost him only lid. After a pleasant walk along the Links, where many of the town folks, male and female, were enjoying a game of golf, whiqh seems very popular in Scotland at the present time, we started on our journey to the " Granite City," The railway line runs close to the shore of the North Sea, aud the country as you pass along in many parts looks bare and bleak. Pleasant to my eyes, however, were the fine clumps of real purple heather and Scottish blue bells to be seen from the carriage windows as we speed along. Approaching Aberdeen the railway line enters tli3 city at a cousiderableelevation above the adjacent houses, which look miserable little tenements, giving an impression as unfavourable as I suppose most visitors must get on entering Dunedin by the north train. This impression is soon effaced, however. As you leave the station the fine massive granite buildings that greet the eyes on all sides as you wend your way to the hotel are imposing and substantial. Dinner over, in the delightful twilight we take a stroll through tho city. Walking along Market street we reach Union street, get on top of a tramcar, where we sit admiring the handsome buildings as we travel along. The municipal buildings in Union street aro, I think, the most imposing. The massive spire with fair proportions towering high above the adjoining buildings is quite a land mark, seen from almost any point. The tram system is very complete, and without changing we were able, by a circular route, to traverse the principal streets and see much more of the Granite City than we possibly could havo done on foot. A passing look at many of the places was not sufficient, and leaving the tram on its return to the point whence we started, we went along to see the Union Terrace Gardens, at the eastern end of which a line statue has been recently erected to the memory of Scotland's hero, " William Wallace." The pedestal is formed of huge rough blocks of red granite piled one on top of the other to a height of about 12ft, while the statue 'itself, about double life-size, is chiselled from the 6ame material, a perfect work of ar,t. Another statue worth noticing stands on a polished grey granite pedestal in front of the Art Gallery and School of Art, dedicated to the memory of General Gordon, a true hero, " who did heroic work for the hero's true wages — the love of Christ and the good of his fellow men." On nearing the Market Cross, it being Saturday night, a crowded collected in the open squaro and were being addressed by one of the Socialist leaders and a Salvation Army officer, both of whom seemed to believe in what Dr Jolinstou called " The art of laboured gesticulation," imagining that their argument would,, be mightily strengthened by the motkttJ of the head and hands. Pressing through' tho crowd into the public market, we find ourselves in a seething mass of humanity moving to aud fro round the building, where are stalls with every conceivable kind of wares, which their vendors with peculiar native Doric are pressiug upon the crowd. If the good folks of Aberdeen are not well informed on all subjects, it is certainly not for the want of cheap literature, as on passing a bookstall we saw a wonderful collections of books, many of them well bound, from which you are invited to select any volume you please for 6d. My friend, who is of a literary turn of mind, was captivated, and made a selection. Less ambitious, I speculated only to the extent of Is. As it was now between 11 and 12 o'clock, I dare say nearer the latter, we returned to the " Imperial," satisfied that we had made the most of a delightful evening,

The Union Company's s.s. Mar&Voa, whioh left Lyttelton late or Friday night,, made a very fast run of llhrs 35min to Wellington, averag. ins over 15 knots all the wty. Avoid the ueo of calomel for bilioqs complaints, Ayer's Cathartis Fill*, entirely vegetable, have bein tested for 40 yws, a»<J are aeknowlodged to bs thi best rmiiy for torpMty of thi \\w, ecrtiYwwntUNtiiffixtiWi