LAKES TE ANAU AND MANAPOURI.

Otago Witness, Issue 1977, 14 January 1892, Page 33

LAKES TE ANAU AND MANAPOURI.

Written by direction of Hie Corami«ione« lot How Zealand ltHilwavs By James Rkhahdson.

{All Rights llcs'.rv.d.)

No. 11. THE VILLAGE OF TE ANAU.

Though still but a hamlet, the township of Te Anau, situated at the touthern end of tbe lake, has made a considerable advance sinca Mr Richmond* visit. The Te Anau Hotel, erected by Mr Saodgrass, is well built and admirably furnished, and compares favourably with firstclass city hostelties. A lawn tennis ground is now being laid out, and two yachts aro at the disposal of visitors, who may depend upon being made thoroughly comfortable. It ia to be hoped that Mr Snodgrass' enterprise will reap its just reward. Captain Brodrick's eight-roomed house of accommodation (made entirely of timber hewn by that gentleman with an American broad-axe), Hankinson's old wool store, and Mr M'Kinnon'fl chalet complete the present city of Te Anau; bat two other buildings are in course of erection, and co doubt otherß will speedily follow. There are now two steamers on the lake— the Te Uira (commanded by Captain Brodrick) and another small launch. The Uira is now being refitted with new boilers, with which it is anticipated a satisfactory rate of speed will bo attained. The only drawback hitherto to voyaging in either steamer has been that with adverse winds the necessity for increased power has been apparent. Nevertheless they have proved a great convenience to visitors, and no one can fail to admire the enterprise and pluck which conquered the difliculties of transit and placed the little craft on the lake. It is highly desirable that two Government whaleboats should be provided, one to be located at Ihe Clinton (and always returned there), the other at the township. Mr M'Kinnon's boat having been wrecked during his late absence in Dunedin, Mr R. Henry's whaleboat is now tho only one on the lake fit for heavy weather.

LAND FOR SETTLEMENT.

Although tbe land about the township is admirably adapted for agriculture— deep, rich loam on a gravel substratum— it has hitherto been locked up, being vested in the School Commissioners of Otago, but sinoe our return I have learned that power iB being asked ia Parliament to lease in small areas some 5000 acres. This will no doubt be speedily Bettled if oare is taken to reserve the back as commonage. Until a good road is made farming for export cannot prove payable, but people would gladly take up a few ttores if adjoining a large commonage.

TEOUT FISHING.

In passing, mention should be made of the tttraotions for fishermen which exist all along the line of route from Mossburn to Te Anaa. The Oreti, Hamilton Burn, Centre Hill creek, Gorge creek, and Mararoa and Whitestone rivers, with divers smaller streams, are teeming with unsophisticated trout ready to fall a prey to the wiles of the angler. The Mararoa trout ire occasionally sampled ("for private consumption only ") with a pitchfork, and average kbout 2£lb in weight. In Lake Te Anau itself 10.000 try have been liberated, and large numbers of fish must have come np tbo magnificent Waiau river.

BABLT EXPLORATIONS.

It ii now some 44 years since the first white man, by name, I believe, John Mackay, set foot on the shores of this magnificent inland sheet of water. Then followed Mr Donald Hankinson »nd Mr Clark, who, it is said, tossed np for choice of the country east and west of tbe Mararoa river. In 1860 Messrs Henry and Griffiths discovered the open country in tbe neighbourhood of the Eglinton. It is only some four years since Lake Te Anau became a resort of sightseers, but the finding by Mr M'Kinnon of a practicable pass to Milford Bound has given an immense impetus to tourist traffio, which easier access to the lake will extend indefinitely. In addition to Mr M'Kinaon's highly valuable discovery, adventurous spirits have demonstrated that communication is possible with o.thers of tbe famed West Coast Bounds, and tracks will no donbt be opened before many years have gone by. In 1877 Mr Mitchell and Mr Haakinson penetrated beyond the head of the north-west »rm of the Middle Fiord and discovered Lake Hankinson. Me Thomson followed, and further un found the lake which bears bis name. Mr R. Henry subsequently went past these lakes right through to George Sound. This route has since been examined and plotted by Mr M'Kinnon. Later on Messrs M'Kinnon and Tucker penetrated from the Bouth-west arm of the same fiord (via the Doon Valley) to Caswell Sound, discovering two new lakes, and what will in time ba valuable deposits of white marble, and several quartz reefs, as well as traces of Maori predecessors. The Natives are also supposed to liave known of a pass from the North Fiord to Bligh Sound, but this no European has yet attempted to find.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF TH ANAU.

Lake Te Anaa lies at an elevation of 684 feet kbove sea level (nearly 400 feet lower than Wakatipu) and has an ascertained depth of 1350 feet, the bottom being no less than 660 Feet below the level of the ocean. It is about tO miles in length, varying in width from half a mile to seven miles, and has a coast line of nearly 250 miles. The Kepler, Murchison, Stuart, and Franklin mountains guarding it on 'he west vary in elevation from 4800 to 6800 feet. The eastern shores are comparatively flat from the foot of the lake until nearly opposite the North Fiord. From this point the eastern margin is precipitous, End Peak (4116 ft), the noble Mount Eglinton (6085 ft), and the Largs tnd Skelmerdine ranges (5555 ft and 5933 ft) sueseeding each other until Mount Anau blocks cision to the northward, hiding its more maglificent neighbour Mount Christina (8765 ft) from view.

THE SCENERY OF LAKE TE ANAU. TK AIU.U. The wlitful waters wander at the bate Of Amu's brawny breast ; WhiUt virgin enow enclasp* with cold embrace His fcow'ring oreafi. The tall hilti stand along the watery way, As guards before a icing ; Eobtd with soffc foliage, where >unbeami play» And shadows cling. Here tbe forgotten gods descend in mist, To bathe a sunny hour ; And softly lave their white wingf, where they kiss'd Tbe rata's flower. I know not whether terror ruled thy birth Oh I lake of Titian face, Or beauty thought to bring at onoe to earth Her every grace. Or both oomblned to bring to mortal eyesHow dMp tbe myitery Which living thlogi (and deitd thlngi) underlie*, Bteroftllyi *

Ami u')w, iieyomi t no muslo ol the tides, 'I he wi'.cli'ry of thesiuw, Tho nold of eunset on the mouatata tide, Aud woods bjlotv ; Tho full voiced whittle of the rising lark, The tononte g!ojmy roar, Ii that which must lcmain a riddle dark For evermore 1 — Hiogiss. Daring the p.wfc two years several writers hays recorded their impressions of Lake Te Anau, and to attempt a full description anew would compel the repetition of so much that has alreadj been written &s to lay tho author open to 8 charge of plagiarism. I therefore have no hesitation in availing myself of quotations from one or two of the best accounts which havo been published. " Mando," writing in the Times of 28th February last, says:— "For 20 miles (aftei passing the south fiord) all is wondrous beauty of hill and mountain, valley and ravine, manytinted foliage, and mauy-hued cliffs. The mountains have closed in around us, not stern and awful, like the rugged walls that imprison Wakatipu, but soft and beautiful in Nature's choicest; robes.and wearing Nature's smile— grand and stately, yet softened by that unbroken expanse of leafage that sweeps with changeful colour over all. Under the noonday sun the whole mass of foliage becomes illumined. The silver birch becomes a brighter green, tho broadleaf a deeper olive, the scarlet rata flower be- [ comes more brilliant, and tho crimson mistletoe | more vivid ; the splendid red pine glows until it almoßt equals the glorious wattle, and the fow dead trees appear no longer bare and lifeless, but— oovered with moss and long pendulous lichen, which conceals the nakedness of every limb— seem transformed into luxuriant clusters of whitest bloom, as if Nature willed that in this I laad of living green the hand of death should ! never be visible." Lest this graceful word1 painting be deemed overdrawn I add the following brief extract from a narrative written by Messrs A. B. and D. C. of a journey made from Milrord Souud to Te Anau. Summing up, they say : "In the face of tbe wonderful scenery the soberest language of description wonld seem extravagant, and the limit of every man's admiration must be his capacity for admiriDg Nature."

For the benefit of readers who may promise themselves a trip to Te Anau I select, by the kind permission of the author, the following details of what is to be seen on a voysgo up the lake from some ably written contributions to the Soutblander, by Captain Melville Duncan, the artist, who resides at Te Anau :— " Generally, it may ba stated that the eastern shores are backed by low-lying ferny terraces for many miles, hills and mountains then rapidly succeeding one another in increasing magnitude till the head is reached. The western waves lap the base of stupendous mountain giants, unbroken bush olothing their lower slopes along the whole coast line from the Waiau to the Clinton Valley, some 40 miles. Passing the south fiord tho mountaias begin to exhibit some of the fantastic shapes which are more observable farther north. Under Black Cone, noticeable on account of its serrated top, is Garden Point, which Mr M'Kinnon has seleoted as the site of his habitation. It ia a choice spot, having a good boat iiarbour» and is an excellent starting point for any expedition. Progressing northward we still have low land on the easten side, but with no lack of mountain background, range appearing beyond range till the snowolad peaks near Lake Wakatipu limit the scope of vision. Almost in the middle of the lake we now see Centre Island, immediately to the east of whioh is Pleasant Bay, a capital harbour of refuge ; a mile or so north of which is Boat Harbour, where stands the homestead of Te Anau Downs station. Across' the lake from Boat Harbour is the Middle Fiord, the most imposing of the three. At the month are numerous wooded islands— all beautiful. The Hooked Peaks of the Stuart Mountains, on the north side of the entrance, present the most remarkable appearance. From Middle Fiord northwards the grandeur of the Scenery increases and the foliage assumes a more brilliant hue, especially in spring time, when tbe crimson rata flowers, the kowhai'a golden drops, and the manuka's May-like blossom add their brilliant colouring to the piotnre. VoyagiDg onwards and upwards the North Fiord comes in sight, with the usual island at the entrance. On, on we go ; still more bush ; still higher peaks ; and now, in the middle of the lake, appears an island which, when seen at a distance, exactly resembles me of the celebrated Landseer lions of Trafalgar square fame. In consequence t probably, of its similitude to the king of animals, it-has been named Lion Island. Opposite this island, on the western shore, is a most delightful bay, appropriately called "Happy Cove," a pot camping ground, completely land-locked. Still steering northward we obtain a perfect view of the head of the lake, and few finer scenes are to be^found in the picturesque spots of this earth.' Prominent amongst the higher summits are Mounts Largs and To Anau, two of the most magnificent mountains ever looked upon. At tbe north end the lake branobes into two arms— the Clinton and Worsley. Going eastward, towards the Clinton you become embayed, as it were, in a email lake, encompassed by a magnificent amphitheatre of glittering peaks. Gradually the panorama narrows in and the Clinton river is reached, where runs the track to Milford Sound. Hemming in the • valley to right and left are precipitous steeps, which remind one of the American tourist's remark regarding the surroundings of Milford Sound : " Guess when Almighty got here be bad more ground left over nor he could well spread around and had to stack it." Every turn discloses new wonders which defy adequate description. Space does not permit notice of the countless waterfalls seen en voyage, of the interesting.labyrinthine fiords, the 10 pretty lakelets near Botany Point, and the thousand and one other beauties awaiting inspection by those who have not [yet enjoyed an exploration of Lake Te Anau.

UILFOBD SOCND-TK ANAU TEAC*.

A few particulars of tbe accommodation for tourists at the Head of the Lake may be of use. At the mouth of the Clinton river a tworoofed cottage has been lately erected, and there is a Government hut at the upper boat landing, so that visitors desiring to see the valley will find ample shelter. For the convenience of tourists journeying to Sutherland Falls Mr M'Kinnon has fixed a tent nine miles further up, and another two miles this side the saddle, whioh he considers tbe most suitable site for a muoh-needed hut, which, in view of the increasing traffic, should be erected before next summer. Tourists can go from this spot to Sutherland Falls and back in one day.

TELEPHONIC COMMUNICATION.

It is to be hoped that before long the Government will establish telephonic communication between the month of the Clinton river and Te Anau township, as it is at present quite impossible for tourists arriving from Milf ord Sound to intimate their presence at the head and secure conveyance down the lake. On two occasions, at least (one occurred only last month), lives have nearly been lost owing to the absence of meani of communication. The destruction by ferret* of the ground game, whioh in the past f ornbhed abundance of animal food, has largely Increased (he possibilities of misadventure. Having to describe somewhat) folly the lesser* koowD,batooMeu taattfalJgiJinojgi^U]

conclude this brief account of To Anau by assuring thoso who havo not seen it, that a month might be pleasantly passed in exploring its 250 ittilcß of variedly interesting coast line. Touribta iuteLdiog to do Te Anau or tho Sutherland Falls trip should on no account fail to secure the services of Mr M'Kinnon, writing him well iv advance.

TE ANAU TO MANAPOUni.

Leaving To Anau about; 10 a.m. on the 11th of June, 1891, Mr L. W. Wilson. Mr M-Kiunon, and the writer reached Lake Mannpouri (distant 12 miles) about 1 30, having thoroughly enjoyed one of tho most charming of drives, made all the mere ploamnt and interesting through having Mr M'Kecz : e as our jehu. Tho day was a perfect one — not a cloud in the sky and not a breath of wind— and the scenery proved to be very beautiful, especially the magnificent panorama of the Waiau basin as viewed from

HORSESHOE BEND. Seen through a frame of graceful silver birch, tho winding river, the tussocky flat in the foreground, studded witb clumps of manuka, the purple bush-clad hilts in the middle distant, backed by the 6no*y summits of the Hunter mountains, combined to complete a pioturo which must ever remain impressed on the memory of those who have seen it under similar condition?. There is no road between Te Anau and Manapouri, but we saw no obstacle to an excellent one being made at very small cost. Wo oertainly carried away a swingletree in negotiating a V-shaped creek, but a five-pound note would bridge tho obstacle. Mr John li'Keczie, we here agreed, would take the priz3 ;\b being the most philosophical of drivers. Ib is aggravating to havo a swinglotreo i mashed miles from any habitation, but not an ' xclamation fell from his lips. We listened in vain for a " big, big D," and only marked that tor the first time during our acquaintance he tdmitted, on being questioned, that it might be is well if we alighted. Leaving Mr M'Eenzie ■nd Mr M'Kinnon to repair damages with tho Aid of a tomahawk and a splinter from a pest in ■\ boundary fence (fortunately at hand), Mr Wilson and I started to walk, and had soaroely 4ouo a mile when we were agreeably surprised o hear sounds of melody whistled, undoubtedly, iy our imperturbable driver, who, it may be remarked, always relapses into song if conversation, slackens, as it usually does when his pas* sengers anticipate the capß : za which never comes off.

Passing through a pretty bush glade, sear the southern end of the lake, we found the original bur, where Mr George Dore nade us welcome in the absence -of the owner, Mr Robert Murrell, who is engaged in building a first-rate eight-roomed house for the accommodation of tourists. The site selected, on the terrace, commauds a magnificent view of she whole of the lake and surrounding mountains. Mr Murrell has two boats for the use of visitors, and as host and guide wil} be found most pleasant and obliging, and thoroughly conversant with Man»pouri and its oountle6S points of beauty.

LAKE MANAPOURI.

Lake Maaapouri boasts some 40 square miles of water— a facts which is difficult of , belief until one discovers the existence of its three arms and numerous smaller indentations. Its extraordinarily irregular coast line and countless, wooded islands are features which lend to Manapouri attractions shared by no other lake. Delightful surprises meet onq at all points. You row up to the head of a narrow arm only to find, on penetrating the leafy dividing wall, that you have landed bat SO yards from .another inlet, to reach which by coasting would involve a round of several miles. Charming variety, awaits one everywhere. Little bays, with pretty, sparkling beaches, are found nestled under overhanging foliage cheek by jowl with rugged cliffs, where the trees can scarcely find root-hold ; here your vision is limited to wooded kaolJs and rooky points ; then you have a vast expanse of liquid mirror, reflecting forest-robed steeps and snowy peaks, or exquisitely beautiful islets. At every turn the scene changes, but every transition is enchanting. Were it possible to construct an ideal lake, were a conclave of the world's artists to design the plao, I do not think anytbiog more beautiful could be conceived than Mariapouri seen as as we saw it.