THE GARDEN.

Otago Witness, Issue 1900, 3 July 1890, Page 5

THE GARDEN.

OPERATIONS FOR THE MONTH. July corresponds with January at Home. — Averago temperature, 37 7.) SEEDS TO SOW. Beans Fens Spinach. In moderate healj - Carrot, cauliflower, cress, cucumber, French btans, lettuce, melon, and mustard. SEASONABLE NOTES. The season up to the end of last month bas been remarkable for the absence of rain and the few frosts experienced. Having passed' the shortest day, however, we shall no donbt now have a change in both respeots. Vegetable Gabden.— Successive sowings of, peas may be made in a warm border, and those previously sown murt receive attention immediately they appear above ground. A good dußting of fine fresh ashes and Boot over and on each side of the rows will usually prevent any damage from Blugs or other vermin, and as a protection from frost and cold winds an excellent plan is to Btick some small branches about a foot in height, of some evergreen tree, with the old leaves still on,, along eaoh Bide of the rowß. Then, directly a fair start into growth takes place, sticks should be placed to the rows, not forgetting plenty of short, twiggy pieoes at the base for the plant to lay hold of in the first place. A sowing of French horn carrot may also be made in a warm border towards the middle of the month, ' protecting the young plants when up by means of bracken, straw, branches, mats, &c, Towards the end of the month sow celery in boxes placed in a frame with mild bottom heat. It is essential that sufficient air be given to prevent the seedlings becoming drawn. When large enough, prick out and transplant into well manured trenohes. When well established liquid manure will prove of great assistance. It is a mistake to earth up too soon, the celery not keeping bo well as if allowed to get nearly its full Bize before earthing and then giving another final earthing just before frost sets in. Sow cucumbers in heat towards the end of the month, and when the plants have formed the first rough leaf, plant Bingly on mounds of good soil, one plant to the centre of eaoh light. Avoid overcrowding of the young growths, and as the young roots come to.the surface mulch with good, turfy loam, decayed manure or leaf mould, and a slight addition of bone meal, If the heat Beems likely to decline, it must be kept up by fresh linings of litter. Sow radish, lettuce, &c, for salads in frames on a warm border. Fruit Garden.— Plant trees as early as possible in situations where the ground is in a workable condition, and propagate bush fruits by means of cuttings, in the case of goose' berries taking off all the buds except four at the top of the cutting, which should be about a foot in length. In currants a greater number should be left. Let all necessary pruning be done as opportunity presents itself, keeping in view the fact that the main objeot of this opera* tion is to let in the sun and air to all parts of the tree, _ , . Gbeenhouse and Frames.— Watering and ventilation must be oarofully attended to prevent dampinp off. Primulas for late blooming will, if the pots are filled with roots, be benefited with another shift into larger pots, also growing plants of oineraria, using light, rich oompost. Pelargoniums which are growing must bo kept near the glass, and air admitted on all favourable days. The points of the growths should be pinched or stopped, to "produce sturdy plants. Autumn-struok plants of various bedding stuff should be potted off singly into 3£in or 4in pots and established prior to being hardened off. Hyacinths in Glasses. Two mistakes are often made by many who attempt to grow hyaoinlhs in water — the one an improper selection of varieties, the other want of proper attention, the last being the most prolific source of failure, Almost without exception, siugle hyacinths alone should be grown in glasses. It is the natural characteristic of certain single varieties to produce a Kood dose spike. Plants of both double and single kinds will, however, fail if proper attention be not paid to them. In a euuny day in spring we have frequently scon hyacinths in glasses in the inside of a window without ventilation, and languishing for want of water. Under Buch circumstances, long-drawn flower spikes are the result, Those who cultivate hyacinths in water should not grow large so much as nopdium sized solid bulbs. Fresh water should in all oases be used ; fill the glasses with it, and then place in each three or four pieces of charcoal about the size of a cob nut to keep the water in good condition, thereby obviating the necessity for its being frequently changed. This should be done some three days before the bulbs are placed in the glasses, in order that in the interim the charcoal may bo thoroughly saturated with water, when it will sink to the bottom. The glasses should be placed for a time in the dark, in order to induce frfe root growth. If the glasses are, howover, opaque, thoy need not bo kept in the dark. When the bnlbß are placed in dark coloured glasses they are sot on the sideboard, acd under such circumstances seldom fail to root eatisfactonly. The roots, '.indeed, naturally begin to grow first, unlesß it is very late in the season before the bulbs are placed in thownler. The foliage will appear in due time, and after that it ia necessary to keep tho glasses m a light, airy position, when the leaves will not beoome drawn, and the glasses must also be filled with water to Bupply that absorbed by I the roots. If a brisk fire be kept m the room fresh water must be added twice a week m order that no part of the roots be exposed. The best position in which to set them when the bulbs begin to make upward rapid growth

is the airiest and lightest part of a sitting room, but aa far from the fire as possible. The foliage of the plant should be kept free from whichdust, should be removed with a piece of damp sponge. Ab the flower spikes are thrown up, proper supports, made on purpose, and sold with the glasses, should be affixed; they are neat in appearance, and answer the purpose for which they are designed admirably.— Exchange,