THE PYRAMIDS OF GHIZEH.

Otago Witness, Issue 1891, 1 May 1890, Page 3 (Supplement)

THE PYRAMIDS OF GHIZEH.

By Halkett Dawson, M.A, F.S.S, F.R.GS-

MY FIHST VIEW. My first view of the Pyramids of Qhizeh was from a parapet in the citadel of Cairo. The scene appeared quite familiar to me. I seemed to have seen the landscape and the three Pyramids of Cheops, Chephren, and Mycerinus often before. Perhaps there are no objects of interests in the wide world better or more generally known by photographs and pictorial representation than the great Pyramids of Ghizeh. The charm of absolute novelty, in these days of pictorial newspapers, can be very rarely enjoyed. The pyramids consequently were to me somewhat like old friends, but this only in respect of appearance. Other feelings of a deeper nature steal over the man or woman who for the first time gazes upon these monuments. One is awed by their hoary age ; one is here face to face with splendid human achievement before the dawn of history. Dynasties, religions, schools of thought, have come and gone, but the pyramids remain. According to Herodotus, Cheops and Chephren were despisers of the gods. Their tombs have outlived the gods ! The pyramids were hoary with age when Joseph as a slave was brought to the land of the Pharaohs. I am not to trouble my readers at any length with any dry details about Egyptian chronology, but a few facts may be interesting. Mariette, Lepsins, and Wilkinson — authorities on the question — put down the date of the primeval dynasty at respectively, 5004, 3892, and 2700 years before the birth of Christ. In the Fourth Dynasty (the Memphites) we have the great names of (1) Snefon, (2) Klmfu (Cheops), (3) Ehafra (Chephren), and (4) Menkaura (Mycerinus). The dates of these, according to the authorities already quoted, are 4235, 3124, 2450 years B.C. If we take the last— namely, Wilkinson's estimate, and his date of Seti (the Pharaoh of Genesis) 1340, we fiad that the Ghizeh Pyramids were 1110 years old when the career of Joseph began on the Nile. According to Mariette the pyramids were 2773 years old then ! About as far removed from Joseph's time as the Trojan war is from our days ! BOAD TO GHIZEH. Cairo is about nine miles from the pyramids of Ghizeh. There is an excellent carriage drive all the way. It is raised some 12ft above the level of the plain, material for its formation being obtained, as is common in this part of the country, by digging a large trench or ditch alongside of it. The rising of the Nile necessitates the raising of roadways. On both sides grow acacia trees, which thrive exceedingly well, and during the greater part of the year must supply a grateful shade to the traveller. In the early December morning when I drove along it, there was a sharp cold wind blowing, and I should have preferred the sun. After leaving the outskirts of Cairo I passed the Ghizeh Palace— an erection of the extravagant Khedive Ismail— which will new acquire a world wide importance from its being converted into a museum, of whioh more on another occasion. Some two mud villages were subsequently passed, and after an hour and a half's drive I was at the foot of the Pyramid of Cheops. ASCENT OF THE PY.EASIID OF CHEOPS. A sheik has charge of the Ghizeh Pyramid. Under him is a staff of Arabs who asßist visitors in their ascent, and conduct them into the interior of Cheops Pyramid. There is a regular soale of charges, but the visitor must regard that as simply the smallest part of the expense. My determination was to ascend without assistance. Other men had done so, and why not I? But then, other men may not have been "fat, fair, and forty." Well, I paid the sheik the customary charges, and was commencing to ascend, when three Arabs at once caught hold of me, and would assist whether I would or not. I shook myself clear oi them and remonstrated. But it was by no means an easy task to get my way. Accidents had happened, life bad been lost, the sheik was responsible; they never heard of such folly, and such like nonsense. Then they tried ridicule. They eyed me — 15 stone ! they grinned ; they chattered ; but I was obstinate. At length a concordat was dully agreed upon. I would " climb Cheops " without assistance, and on their part they would be close by lest anything should happen. No sensible man would object to this; and thus, after much wrangling, commenced the toilsome ascent. Many years ago the pyramids were quite smooth, being covered with a thick coating of cement. This cement is still seen on Chephren and Mycerinus, but it has wholly been removed from Cheops. Consequently the 6ides of the pyramid are stair'or step-like. But what steps ! Three and often 4ft in height, and only a few inches in width on which to staurl and to catch hold by. As a rule the corners afford the least footing, but occasionally the climber deviates from the corners. There are, in fact, regular tracks; but all are difficult. Timing myself, I went to the top in 25 minutes, having taken three spells of about three minutes each. I was quite exhausted on reachiDg the flat space at the top. From the ground the pyramid seems to end in a point. When at tho top one find 3 a space of 30ft square ! Cement and some large stones have been rolled down. I 1 wanted to rest myself, sit down, and survey the scene. But I was reckoning without my host. These Arabs are perfect tormentors. I could not get asi moment's peace. One Suleiman Ali, a strong fellow, was specially anxious to make a few shillings. He was prepared to run down Cheops and up Chephren, and shout " Hip, hip, hurrah !" within 10 minutes, and all for 10s. I fancied it would be wise to get rid of him, as he was very tormenting, provided I could do it reasonably, so I said I would give him half a crown. " No ; five shillings," he rejoined. At la9t I would be off my offer, and refused to give anything. I would not have him do it at any price. I shall never forget his look of blank astonishment. Had I not promised half a crown, and was he not ready to carry out his part of the contract. I gave in, and Suleinvn AH disappeared over the side. I did not venture to look after him. It was too awful to look down. Then I began to realise what a terrible thing the descent was to be. Coming up my eyes fnced the solid masonry. Was I to descend with my face still towardb the pyramid ? If I looked down and forward I should probably become giddy and fall. Meanwhile Suleiman, was earning his half'

crown. There was no giddiness in his composition. He was now down Cheops, across the sandy waste to Chephren, and like a squirrel was creep1 ing up its here and there cemented face. Within the 10 minutes there was the " Hip, hip, hurrah," and Suleiman had earned his money. PROSPECT FEOM THE PYRAMID. One can never forget such a prospect. Towards the west the desert — a sundy waste. A dirty white or brownish colour — undulating, interminalle; nothing to break the dreary monotony. How grateful in such a place must be even the shadow of a barren rock. I thought of Jupiter, Arnrnon, and Alexander the Great. It was the dreariest scene my eyes had ever rested upon. Turn towards the sweet south, along the fertilising Nile. For many, many miles a pleasant strip of green country on either side of the river | only a few miles wide it is true, but that narrow strip a garden. The fellaheen get three crops every year — (1) wheat, clover, &c; (2) maize, &c; (3) durrah— lentil— a kind of bean. If the cultivable land is not extensive, one most ever remember the pos» sibility of three crops every year — and what crops I The land is continuously under crop, and can never be exhausted while the beneficent Nile performs its fertilising work. Some day that work will cease, and the Nile will then bo like the Murray of Australia. What changes have taken place in the prospect southward ! The eye now rests on some very conspicuous objects in the distance •—the Pyramids of Sukkara, for Ghizeh has by no means a monopoly of these structures. I was gazing at what remains of the great Necropolis of Memphis— a burying place nearly five miles long by one mile in width. OF this hereafter. Meanwhile let us see what remains of Memphis. Nothing can be seen from the top of Cheops. Its name and memory remain, all else is gone. Yet what a place it was when the Israelites were in Egypt, and when Seti, Ramses 11, and Merenpfcab, the Pharaoh of the Exodus, lived. What a place it was its graveyard shows — that graveyard which still contains a pyramid built of brick without straw by the down-trodden Hebrews. I turn my eyes towards Cairo, only a few miles less distant than Sukkara. With its splendid citadel, its mosques, minarets, palaces, and tombs, it looks most stately as becomes " the Nasr — the Victorious." Yet it must be but a small place compared with what Memphis was, or with what Heliopolis was, the site of which is about as far to the east from Cairo as Memphis is to the south. The day may come when Cairo is as much a bare blank space as Heliopolis and Memphis, and yet the Pyramids will complacently survey the changed scene, and some future traveller will moralise from the top of Cheops on the extinction of Cairo, and the rise of some other busy hive of humanity elsewhere. I spent about an hour at the top, chipped off a piece of stone from the topmost block, bought a few curios from importunate Arabs, and prepared to descend. THE DESCENT. I was glad to avail myself of the services of Arab guides in my descent. They say facilis descensus Avemi. But it is not so here. Two Arabs go in front, each holding me by the hand. A band is tied round my waist, and two Arabs bold on behind. " Look at your feet," said one. I did so. I saw nothing but each successive step. After a few steps I ventured to look down. It is wonderful what in some minds a sense of security will do. I could gaze about when not far down like the Arabs themselves. A rest was taken when about half down, and then the persistence with which " backsheesh " was demanded was really extraordinary. " You make Abdul satisfied to-day," "You proper governor," "Me very hard up," " Me two wives to keep," and so on. A few piastres had to go. When I got to the foot I was very tired, particularly about my knees. I felt the effects of the ascent for weeks. But then, I had climbed the great pyramid without assistance, and that once would for ever satisfy me. Near the base of the pyramid the Egyptian Government have erected a rest house, where your dragoman will undo your luncheon basket. I can recommend my pyramid experience as an excellent appetiser.