AMONGST SEAS OF GRASS

Otago Witness, Issue 1974, 19 September 1889, Page 30

AMONGST SEAS OF GRASS-

ROUGHING IT ON THE PAMPAS.— FROM MENDOZA TO BUENOS AYRES.

By 0. De L. Geaham.

A most remarkable country is that part of Spanish South America known as the Argentine Republic, which is destined hereafter to become one of the most prosperous States in the world. At present the .only industry carried on (outside the rearing of sheep and cattle for export) is that of curing hides for the English markets. Very little of this vast country has been utilised for agricultural purposes, and some few years ago nothing was grown in the interior save pumpkins, Indian corn, and a little garlic. True, there was some attempt at gardening in the vicinity of the few cities, but beyond that nothing was done to cultivate the land, and the inhabitants of the plains were content to live on beef or goat flesh, their only vegetable food' being pumpkins, either fresh or dried, bread being a luxury they rarely enjoyed — indeed it was only procurable in the cities. Still tho people are a hardy race, and will endure privations that would kill Europeans. They work hard, and in return earn very little money, but having very few wants they are easily satisfied. Plenty of tobacco, a sufficient supply of mati, and now and again a new poncho, and the Gaucho has all he wishes for.

The country, although sparsely wooded, is full of game. There are a few good rivers abounding with fish, an i the climate is without doubt one of the finest in the world. One can travel all over it without its being absolutely necessary to seek the shelter of a roof, and nothing is more enjoyable than a good gallop across the pampas.

The method of travelling some years ago ia the Argentine Republic was either by diligence or ia the saddle, and the latter was by far the roost pleasant. Tho diligencia was a large, clumsy, oblong caravan on wheels, without springs, and capable of carrying about 30 passengers. It was drawn by some three dozen hcrses, each mounted by a postilion, and these horses were attached to the machine by long traces of twisted hide. Great trouble was always experienced in making a start. When onc6 i off, however, they managed to drag the unwieldy vehicle along at the rate of about five miles an hour, and as they always stopped at sunset at a posting station, travellers rately did more' than 60 miles a day by this method. On the other hand, if the traveller went ou horse or mule, he saw more of the country, could travel more expeditiously if be chose, and i certainly more comfortably. The latter fact decided me some years back, when I was en route for Europe, to join a party travelling from' Mendoza to < Buenos Ayres with their own horses and mules, instead of going by diligence or hiring post" horses. So we engaged a couple of well-known guides, with a ■ third man as cook, for our party, which consisted of some 20 persons, and after laying in a stock of coffee, mate, sugar, &c, with a| liberal supply of thick biscuits in place of bread, and some few cooking utensils, all of which were carried by three pack mules, we secured our passports and left Mehdoza-Üben undeniably tbe "Queen Oity of the Plains"— for the sea coast. We had a jolly lot of fellows amongst us, were well armed, mounted on I splendid cattle, and presented rather a for- J midable appearance as we rode out ef the | city gates two abreast, and cantered into the I open country. For a few miles homesteads were scattered here and there, but as the day began to fade into evening we lost all traces of them, and our chief guide, pointing out a small boschetto or wood about a couple of miles ahead, said :

" Senors, when we reach that v/ood we shall see the last house in this district, and except for the postas no others will be seen until we reach Rio Quint*, a town live days' distant ; so if any of you care to sleep under Cover to-night, you had better ,do so." But that was not our intention. We had decided to rough it across the pampas, and so we told our worthy guide. "So be it, caballeros," said he. "We shall soon halt ; then every man will unsaddle his biestia and hobble him. We will cook our supper, and before we go to' rest appoint those who are to keep watch, for I warn yon these gentry on the pampas are none too honest, and often take a fancy to other men's horses, s© that we must keep a strict look out."

This was agreed to, and after riding a mile or two more we came to a place which our guide considered suitable for a camping ground. So we dismounted, unsaddled and picketed our horses, and then sat down to supper. This over, we lay about chatting and smoking till it was time to go to rest, when the watch fire was seen to, and with the exception of the man whose duty it was to keep the first two hours' watch all hands were soon wrapped in slumber. Nothing occurred to disturb us during the night, and at daybreak next morning we rose, took a dip in the neighbouring stream, and after an ample breakfast started on our second day's journey. The weather was delightful, and our ride was mast enjoyable. Every now and then a covey of birds wonld rise up in front of us, and many of them wonld fall victims to our guns. At noon we halted, to give cur steeds a rest and refresh ourselves. This being done, and tbe heat of the day over, we saddled up again and proceeded on our way, seeing nothing living except cattle and horsas grazing on the pampas, with here and there large flocks of wild fowl. At sunset we again halted for the night. Daring the following day the heat was intense. Not a breath of wind stirred the vast plains of grass in which we were. The birds flew low, uttering ominous cries, while our horses and mules grew uneasy and restive, needing all our care to prevent them bolting. As for ourselves, a heavy languor oppressed us. We ceased to chat, and rode stolidly on, smoking our cigars and looking forward as though we expected to meet some approaching danger. ' As noon approached we expressed a wish to halt for refreshment. To this, however, our guide would not; consent, :

" Senors," said he, "it is useless to think of stopping here. The water in the lagoon ahead is salado, and neither fit for man nor beast, while a pampero is brewing.* Let ut push forward, en el nombre de Dios, and try and reach the next posta before it breaks."

This rather frightened us, for although we had never experienced that fearful wind which coming in from the sea sweeps over the vast plains with its devouring breath, one and all of us had heard of it ; so hastily dismounting we tightened our saddle girths, had a nip of aguardente all ' round, and remounting set spurs to our horses and made for the post house, which was some leagues distant. ' Darker and more lurid grew the sky, while the air seemed loaded with sulphurous vapours, making it difficult to breathe. Still we pressed on, hoping to reach some shelter before the pampero burst, but we were doomed to disappointment. We had reached a rising mound of ground from which Pedro, our guide, told us we should see the casa de posta, and of course all eyes weie stretched in the direction to which he pointed. But nothing could be seen — a purplish haze was fast settling down on the plain, while the heat became more unbearable.

"Never mind, senors," said the guide, "my mula knows the posta, and she will take us there in safety." At this moment some one cried out :

" There's the house ; and, what's more, it's moving this way."

Everyone turned to the direction in which our companion was looking, and certainly what appeared to be a small hut some 25ft high seemed to be travelling towards us over the top of the tall pampa" grass. We could not refrain from expressions of astonishment, but this excited the risible faoulties of Pedro.

" Valga me Dios," said he. " Why, senors, do you not know that is a ship of the pampas ? Look steadily and you will soon see the oxen which draw it."

And he was right. It was indeed one of the large carts of the country used for the conveyance of goods from one city to another. These carts have wheels 20ft high, and are drawn by oxen, which are steered by a Gaucho, who sits in front of the vehicle, whence, by means of an immensely long lance, which he moves on a pivot, he "guides the oxen by driving into them a sharp goad with which the lance is pointed, and so directs their course. The cart, driver, and oxen could now be plainly seen, as well aa some four mounted Gauchos who accompanied it, and 'our guide could not repress his astonishment at what he called their madness in travelling with the prospect of the pampero overtaking them, which he said it certainly would. And the worthy fellow was right in his prophecy, for suddenly the tall grass, hitherto so still, became violently agitated, and rose and fell like the waves of the sea. No sooner did he see this than Pedro called out :

" Dismount every man of you ! Unsaddle the horses, and they will look to themselves."

This was quickly done.

" Now lie down all of you," said Pedro. "In another minute or two it will be on us."

His words were correct, for suddenly, with the noise of a thunderclap, the pampero burst upon us,' and with such violence that we were compelled to clutch the long wiry grass to prevent being blown along its surface ; then came a peal of thunder, followed by vivid lightning, and heaven's artillery displayed its utmost force, varied by downpours of warm! rain. This lasted for about three hours, sjnd then all was still. We looked up ; the sky was bright and clear, the wind had died away, and but that the grass was flattened to the ground from the effects of the wind arid rain, none could have imagined that a storm had passed over us. Our horses had risep to their feet, and were cropping the wet 'grass with great enjoyment. As lor ourselves, although wet to the skin, we gratefully inhaled the cool breeze which had succeeded' the scourge of the pampas, and after saddling up we mounted and rode towards the post house, which was only about a mile distant, and could be plainly seen. While making our way to it we came across the pampas cart, which had been blown over on its side. The pole was broken, and one of the ! wretched oxen attached to it had had his \&g broken, rendering it necessary to kill him\ The Gauchos were busily engaged in unlbading the cart prior to getting it upright! again. Although we offered our assistance 1 they gratefully declined it, and bidding them adios we soon reached the casa de posta, a large adobe building, where we secured quarters, and made ourselves comfortable after om encounter with a pampero.

— There is a, time in every man's life when he thinks there is nothing sweeter in the world than somebody's daughter.