SEASONABLE GREENHOUSE NOTES.

Otago Witness, Issue 1974, 19 September 1889, Page 9

SEASONABLE GREENHOUSE NOTES.

Mont plants will now be actively growing, and what with potting those that stand in need of such attention watering and trimming and ventilating, there will be plenty to do. All necessary potting should be attended to without delay. In a general way all soft-wooded plants that are still in the soil in which they grew last year should be re-potted. These comprise*, fuchsias, polargoniums, &c, which it may be desirable to have in larger specimens than can be had from recently propagated stock. Calceolarias, of the herbaceous kinds, Bhould be put in their flowering pots, if not already done. Petunias and salvias should be potted on into larger pots to supply strong flowering plants during summer. Cinerarias and other things i" flower should be shadedfrom bright sun to prolong tfce period of flower to , the utmost. Camellias} that have ceased flowering and are starting to grow, place whore they may be shaded and freely syringed. Azaleaß treat in the same way. Pot both of these as they begin to grow, if they require it. Ha d-wood< : d or shrubby plants generally, such as acacias, ericas, and epacris6?, may be pruned and potted or not, according to their requirements, as they show signs of active growth. Liquid manure may be given to all plants that have filled their pots with roots, and that are advancing towards flowering. Fuchsias, pelargoniums, and cinerarias will be greatly benefited by frequent supplies of weak liquid manure. It is better to give it frequently and weak than to apply it in few but strong dosee. Cuttings of all desirable subjects should be put in as soon as they can be got in proper condition. Scarlet pelargoniums of tho Vesuvius type, propagated now, and grown on in pots, will make splendid flowering plants for late autumn and winter. Lobelias and other bedding plants of which it may be wished to bavo a stock for decorating the house during the early Bummer months, should be potted up now for that puipoße, and when established be grown on in cold frames till wanted in flower. Annuals, such as anagallis, browallia, balsam, and any others it may be desirable to grow, sow at once, in a hot-bed if possible; if not in the warmest corner of the greenhouse, and pl&ce a square of glass over each pot till the plants appear. If there are only soft wooded plants and such shrubby ones as the camellia and the azalea in the house, it may be kept at a temperature of from 50deg to 65deg. Flowering plants will last longer in a temperature of sdeg lower, and ericas and epacris should be kept cool ; their growth is made most favourably in a temperature of 45deg to 55deg, with plenty of ventilation in mild weather.

Successful batches of gloxinias and achimenes may be started. Pot those that are forward enough for that operation. In the case of gloxinias that will be when the plan's have made a fair start to grow, in that of achimenes when the stems are an inch or so in length. The potting of the general stock, if not completed, should be .pushed on as rapidly as possible to completion. There should be no delay in potting everything that is growing if it stands in need of it. Plunts cramped in pots that may be considered largß enough for convenience may be top dressed with rich compost, and otherwise kept vigorous by means of liquid manure. Olimberß may be allowed to ramble freely in their first flush of growth, but Bhould cot be permitted to become tangled. Ferns should all be potted before they advance

very far in growth, and they must now be shaded from bright sun, but should get as much oblique light as possible. Cuttings of everything desirable, particularly autumn and winter flowering plants, should be put in as they can be got. Any spring-struck plants for such pur poses should be potted on as soon as they are well rooted. Keep up a fine genial moist atmosphere by means of the evaporating troughs and sprinkling the stages and floors with water ; by doing so inseota will be best kept in check, but should they appear apply remedies without delay. The thermometer may range from 65deg to 75deg with fire heat. For vines that are starting into growth, that is breaking into foliage, keep up a nice humid atmosphere ; but except the water is vory pure discontinue syringing when the foliage appears, and increase the means of keeping the atmosphere charged with vapour. The evaporating troughs and frequent sprinkling of the walla and floors should, if regularly attended to, maintain sufficient moisture floating in the air to render the use of the syringe on the plants themeelveß unnecessary. Vines about to be started should be merely shut up for the first week, and afterwards have fire heat merely sufficient to keep up a temperature of 50deg at night till the buds break, when the thermometer may be allowed to rise sdeg afe night, and correspondingly higher during the d«y, with •fire heat, if necessary ; but take advantantage of Bun heat to tho fullest extent whRU it offers. When the yiaes approach the fl i waring stage they Bhould have a temperature of 65ieg to 70deg at night, and the atmosphere should bo kept somewhat drier till tho fbwors are set, when tho temperature may be reduced to 60deg to 65dsg. Vanfctlafce in favourable weather, but chiefly by means of the top ventilators Be careful not to tie down the young shoots to tho wire 3 too quickly; they are liable to snap off at tho base if they are brought too quickly to the horiz mtal position. The opera tion is best performed daiiy by degrees, a very little at a time, If the plants have been left unpruned till now, it will be best to let them start into foliage before pruning, as by that means all risk of blesding will be avoided Such vines should not b8 pushed into growth, but be allowed to start of their owa accord; giving them pleufy of air, and taking care they have plenty of water at the roots, and the Byringe freely used upon them in bright weather.