A LADY'S LETTER FROM MELBOURNE. Melbourne, January 24,

Otago Witness, Issue 1943, 14 February 1889, Page 33

A LADY'S LETTER FROM MELBOURNE. Melbourne, January 24,

My Dear Alice,— So many gentlemen have been interviewed and expressed their opinions upon Melbourne that I think your readers might like to hear something about it from a lady's point of view. I will pass over the details of the voyage. There is a monotony about sea-voyages : dire misery the first two days ; the third we began to feel that after all life might perhaps be worth living ; the fourth day I felt quite ready to go to the other end of the world provided I might keep my porthole open. We landed on a very hot day, and our complexions and tempers were not improved by waiting for two hours on the wharf for one of our boAes, which had in some mysterious way got behind many tons of oats— our chief cargo. At last we were able to be Off in search of lodgings, which we had foolishly neglected to write for beforehand. After being told they weie full np by two hotels and three boarding houses, we at last found a resting-place in a convenientlysituated boarding house near town, and near the Exhibition. Melbourne is certainly a wonderful place, and the first few days I felt bewildered. Thenoiseand rumbling of carts and carriages, combined with the loud ringing of the tram bells, is most confusing. I still cross, the streets in true country cousin fashion — that [ is, when I see a clear space I put my dignity ! in my pocket, aud run as hard as I can to the opposite side. I cannot yet acquire that calm nonchalance of- the Melbourne ladies, who look at the drivers of vehicles as much as to say " I dare you to run over me 1 " The drivers humbly stop to allow the ladies to pass. I have been in many dirty towns, but I think for dust, dirt, and horrid odours Melbourne carries off the palm. The dust is afc : times terrific, and lies half an inch thick on some of the pavements. Here it remains until ,a contrary wind carries it away, pro* bably to the opposite side of the road. In Bourke street ana Collins street, quite in

the centre of the town, they have the wooden pavements, which are less dusty and cleaner. One has always a feeling here that one is not quite clean ; dust begrimes everything. I have not done much shopping here, neither have I seen anything very new and striking in the shop windows. In Mowbray, Rowan, and Hicks' I noticed a good deal of furniture painted with cream enamel. It was very pretty, but looks as though it would easily scratch and show stains. I think enamel is better for doing up old furniture than for new. The attendants in the shops seem sleepy and affected by the heat. Without being uncivil they distinctly show that it is quite a matter of indifference to them whether you buy or not. They are a very long time serving you, as they don't generally know where things are. I had to go to five drapers' shops before I could get long silk gloves to match a particular colour, and in each shop the attendant pulled down five or six boxes before he j could find the box he was looking for Buckley and Nunn have a few 'newly imported winter dresses. The redingote is evidently to be very fashionable, and many of the dresses have panels of gold and silver embroidered material. But very few people are thinking of winter dresses now—everything is light and summery. lam delighted with the ladies' dresses here— they are so simple and suitable for the climate. There is, however, a great sameness about them. In the morning the majority of ladies wear blouse bodices with print skirts, the bodice under the skirt ; and you see scores of brown belts with three straps. Small sailor hats with plain band and bow at the side are very much worn, and nearly everyone carries a large palm-leaf fan. The Melbourne ladies will soon be as clever with their fans as the Spanish, For afternoon wear white dresses are most common for young people, with the large hat turned up at the back and trimmed with flowers. They are commonly called "switchback" hats. Light prints and light summer tweeds, are much worn but white always predominates, and there is an entire absence of those striking costumes for which Melbourne used to be so famous. The ladies dress most suitably for their climate, but I can't say the same for the men. A few cling to the silk coat or the entirely white costume but the majority wear black coats and tall hats never mind what the thermometer may be. I think if the men only knew how repulsive they look as they walk along streaming with perspiration, and constantly mopping their foreheads, they would adopt a more rational form of dress. Here it is the men who require dress reform, not the ladies 1 The first 10 days of our visit the weather was pleasant — warm, certainly, but tempered by a cool breeze, so that walking was not trying, and with the help of trams we have managed to go about a great deal. On the 18th, however, the moon rose a dark orange colour, and things began to look threatening. Then every day became worse than the last— hot winds, dust flies, and everything that was dreadful. On the 22nd the thermometer registered lOOdeg. This heat lasted for a week, and then the change of wind came, and it is now comparatively cool. I felt the heat very trying, but I was not prostrated like many people. Residents seem to feel it far more than strangers, and some ladies are quite ill when there are hot winds. Thanks to our Otago climate, I have enough cold in mj system to be able to resist Melbourne heat. I have seen a good many old New Zsaland friends, and nearly all would gladly return to New Zealand if they could. Climate is their chief source of complaint. It is very unsuitable for the children and babies, and little children require to be kept indoors the greater part of the day duiing the summer, as they are so easily affected by the hot sun. Children all seem pale, and are very thin. The great expense of housekeeping is another trouble. During the drought potatoes were 6d per pound, milk 8d per quart, and everything else dear in proportion. Then it is very difficult for any but rich people to get servants, as these naturally prefer to go to those who can give them the benefit of cool houses, gas stoves, and other comforts. It is very trying to have to work hard during euch heat as we have lately experienced. Then the houses — gardens seem to be a thing almost of the past. During the land boom everybody who had a garden sold it to build upon, and in consequence there have sprung up streets and streets of villa residences, j each having a frontage of some 25ft to 35ft, and containing about seven rooms. For such a house in Balaclava, six miles from Melbourne, you must pay £20 or £80 a GSIT Melbourne is very full of strangers, and this being the last month of the Exhibition there have been railway excursions from all parts of the colony. Every place of amuse- j ment is crowded. We went to the new | Princess Theatre to see Miss Nellie Stewart as Dorothy. The piece is splendidly put on the stage, and the dresses and dancing lovely ; but it was the theatre itself that attracted me. You go up , marble steps to the dress circle. The chairs are covered with blue plush and the curtain is blue plush embroidered in the centre with v gold harp surrounded by wheatears, and a magnificent gold fringe at the bottom of the curtain. Between the acts both ladies and gentlemen can promenade on a verandah at the end of which is a refreshment place, where ices and cooling drinks and I believe whiskey can be had. The theatre is lighted by electric light, and everything is done to keep it cool— even the roof is raised in hot weather. ..-,.! We were fortunate enough to get invitations to Bupertswoqd, at Sunbury, §ir William Clarke's summer residence. ' He gave, a luncheon and afternoon party in honour of the Medical Congress. About 1000 people went up in the two special trains. We reached our destination about 2 o'clock. Sir William end Lady Clarke stood on the path near the gate and shook hands with each person, who then passed on to the marquees, where a magnificent cold luncheon was laid out. You can imagine the size of the marquee when I tell you that everybody was seated at the same time. It was intensely hot, and }cc was in great requisition. We had a magnificent luncheon, and, as seems to be usual in Melbourne nowadays, champagne flowed like water. I was much amused at a man near me at table who oalled for ohampagne, but

cautiously asked the brand before allowing the waiter to give him anj. However, when he had ascertained the brand he seemed quite satisfied, and imbibed freely. After luncheon all sorts of amusements were provided. A military polo tournament, tenni3, and in the drawing room an excellent concert by some of the best singers from Melbourne. The grounds are beautifully laid out, and every flower seems to grow more than luxuriantly, while the . scent of the oleanders is almost overpowering. Our special trains were ready for us at 5.30, and we left delighted with our trip and much struck with the kindness and hospitality of Sir William and Lady Clarke. I hear they have given several of these entertainments to the visitors during the Exhibition. Later we went for an Exhibition " spree," as these trips are called by the vulgar. In honour of the Medical Congress the Government organised a trip down the harbour to the Nelson, their defence ship. Here we had another gorgeous luncheon, followed by speeches from the Governor, Premier, and j other celebrities. Ail this time I have said nothing about the Exnibitioa. It will be over when you receive this ; besides, you will have heard so much about it already that all I say would be repetition. I have greatly enjoyed it, especially the pictures and music. The choral concerts with 800 voices have been a great success. All the lady singers wear white dresses. The altos have a red and the sopranos a blue sash fastened across the shoulder, and all use palm-leaf fans. The effect in this way is charming. I must confess to a slight disappointment over the switchback. It is, after all, only the Mornington cable extension going at full speed. Well, I am in Marvellous Melbourne now, and nothing has been pleasanter than my j month's visit, but all the same I would not j live here — no, not for untold gold. I shall return to New Zealand more convinced than ever that it is in every way the^ most perfect of all the Australasian colonies.