SOUTHERN TOURING.

Otago Witness, Issue 1893, 2 March 1888, Page 10

SOUTHERN TOURING.

A TRIP TO PORT PEGASUS, STEWART ISLAND. A Visitor's brpitussiONS of the Teip to the Island. Allured by the tempting advertisements issued by Mr Todd, of E&k street, Invercargill, along with about 50 other fellow adventurers I found myself on board the steamer Invercargill en route for Port Pegasus. We were pleased to learn that we were to be " personally conducted " by Mr Todd, wkose genial good humour did much to enliven us on our way. The trip down the estuary has not much to recommend it, being barren and uninteresting in the extreme. The Otatara settlement, with its white houses peeping out from their background of verdant bush, certainly looked rather pretty ; and a view of Invercargill from the bay, with the blue peaks of the Takatimos aud Hokonuis in the distance, was novel and interesting. Leaving the Invercargill jutty, we learned that the New River Harbour Board are at a deadlock, having no funds and no prospect meantime of getting any. They have already done good work, having dredged a channel 13ft deep alongside and some distance from the jetty, but this work is neutralised by the fact that lower down there is only a depth of Oft. It is to be hoped thab tho Young New Zealand party will remove the boycott from the New Zealand Harbour Board Bills, and allow this necessary work to be proceeded with. Lower down was pointed out the remains of the once famous Mokomoko .jetty, which cost the infant Province of Southland some £30,000, and along with other extravagances of a like nature landed her in that " queer street " into which she so quickly drifted. On the other side from the jetty the New river debouches into the estuary, and we learned that in the olden days, when Southland had no roads aud no money to make them, this was the waterway of the settlements of Makarewa, Waianiwa, &c.

We were soon crossing the bar, and then our troubles commenced. The little Invercargill kept dancing to a rather lively tune, and numbers were soon to be seen " rastling " with their breakfasts, which in most cases soon got the upper hand. An Esk street gentleman (well known in bankruptcy circles) might now be seen pensively gaziug into the depths for a few anguished moments, and then coming to the "recover" with that bland smile he assumes when giving " pepper " to some more than usually delinquent debtor. The jovial, rubicund visage of a well-known and popular Invercargill publican also suffered a partial eclipse, an unusual limpness about his rotund figure betokening the woes within. Our photographic urtisfc also appeared as if he was looking at things in general through his camera, and seeing them very much upside down. Hanging over the railings were other limp bundles of Mosgiel and Kaiapoi, the invertebrate remains of what were lately manly forms laughing to scorn the perils of the deep. We were now in sight of Dog Island, in a line with which, and beating out to sea, was the barque Othello, laden with timber for Melbourne. This we were informed was part of a contract entered into by Mr Murdoch for 1,000,000 ft for the Exhibition building, and that as much more was under contract for the Silverton minjs. Why should we cry depression when we have resources such as these only awaiting development ? A two hours' run and we are across tha Straits, the first settlement we saw being some iouses in Horseshoe Bay, In Port William, adjoining, one of the late Mr Macandrew's pet settlements was formed, and the Resident Magistrate's Court of Stewart Island was held. Like all forced schemes of colonisation it was a failure, and has been abandoned and the buildaags removed. We next reach Halfmoon Bay, where there is a considerable settlement, and is a favourite summer resort of the residents of Bluff and Invercargill. There is good accommodation, and the bay gives excellent facilities for boating and yachting. Hence also can be reached by cutters the various points of interest in the island, and a summer holiday spent in Halfmoon Bay is a thing to be remembered with pleasure. The whole of the inhabitants turned out to greet us, but with no great display of interest. Sitting around on piles of timber they presented an air of languid indifference, as if life in Stewart Island was a kind of lotus-eating existence and the fourth of the month did not press very heavily on their minds. Oystering, saw.milling, aud boarding-house keeping are the chief industries, and there is a pleasing air of eorafort and homeliness about the place and its surroundings. The township (Oban) has been surveyed over 20 years, but we could not learn that there is any great business done in city lots, nor liave the original purchasers profited much by the " uuearned increment." There are no licensed houses here or on auy part of the island. Licenses have been applied Cor, bufc local option has kept them out. Deprivation of whisky does not appear to sit heavy on the souls or affect the welfare of the bodies of the islander*, they being a remarkably contented and heahhy-looking people. After an hour's stay we again got under way, and were soon steaming past the Neck, a promoutory which divides Halfmoou Bay from Patersou Inlet. Here is a Maori village, the most southerly habitation in New Zealand. P.iterson fulet'is a lovely spot, and when more accessible will become a favourite resort of .tourists. We next pass Port Adventure, under the lee «rt which the whaler Sappho was " trying out." •fVuwing about as we were among islands and islul.s innumerable, her name brought to recolJectioii Those (t'lcs of Grrp Q ee, Where burning Sappho loved and sung. Sanctified by associations which these isles of the South probably never will havo, they could not be more beautiful than tho scenery nl-nur-sidtt which wb now steamed for hours. Wo had left Mount; Anglcm (3200 ft) and the highlands of the islaud. and the country hero consisred of low hills clad with dense bush, a muss of verdure, from cheir soft rounded summits to the water's edge. Here aud shere basaltic tocks of grotesque formation were seen — one presenting the appearance of & huge Druidical altar, another rising from the waters like tliß frownjug walls of some ancient fortress, Numerous islands were passed— some masses of verdant bosh, others bare rocks peering above the waters. As we approached Pegasus the low roresr<slad hills aro to be seen framed iv a background of barrea peaks, one towering above the rest iv silent majesty, its bare scalp of slaty rock presenting amidst the Burrounding greenery a weird of desolation. Two islands guard the mouth of Port Pegasus, and as a consequence there are three entrances. At the southernmost passage there are two rooks

of peculiar formation, named Gog and Magog, and Captain Sundstrum had intended that we should go as far south and have a look at them. The dirty weather which had accompanied us for the last three hours had now thickened into a threatening gale, and we entered by the middle passage. Port Pegasus is a land-locked bay, in which a whole fleet could be manoeuvred, and then leave "ample room and verge enough." It is surrounded on every side by hills of no great altitude, rising abruptly and clad with forest from the water's edge, with a charming contrast of foliage impossible to describe, but giving it a soft beauty of a character entirely different from the usual type of New Zealand scenery. There are no rocks and no tussock — one unbroken mass of green and purple and white. Tree ferns with their vivid green fronds contrast with the rich foliage of the rata covered with a crimson glory, while masses of the white manuka flowers light up their more sombre tints. Numerous inlets run considerable distances into the island, mostly leading to tidal creeks of considerable size, where waterfowl of all kinds abound.

Anchoring at the head of an inlet (close by the clearing of the miners who are working the Pegasus Company's quartz reef), fishing tackle is produced, and soon the deck is strewn with blue cod, ling, skate, trumpeter, and other descriptions of to us unknown fish, demonstrating the teeming wealth of food in these waters. Here our youngsters came fco the front. An ancient mariner might be seen line in hand, patience personified, awaiting the bite which did not come, while alongside of him an urchin would be hauling in the struggling beauties as fasc as he dropped his bail;. Bedtime now approached, and how to dispose of our 50 passengers in 15 bunks taxed the ingenuity of our heats. However, the bunks were ballotted for, and leaving the Sybarites to enjoy the stifling atmosphere of the saloon, the remainder of us sought the more breezy atmosphere of the 'tween decks, where "Murdoch's feather beds" (sleepers decently covered with canvas) formed the couch of those not fortunate enough to secure the comforts of the adjoining wool bales. An impromptu concert filled up the interval between darkness and sleep, the pawky humour of an Esk street confectioner keeping the company in good temper. However, tired Nature asserted her rights, and, despite the crumpled leaves in our bed of roses, the nasal chorus which soon struck up showed that Morpheus held sway. At 5 o'clock next morning Mr Todd roused up all hands. Boats were got out, and an expedition organised to a waterfall at the head of the inlet. Ib certainly repaid us for our early rising. Framed in masses of lovely greenery, a beautiful cascade came tumbling in two leaps of about 15ft each. The upper Fall is a symmetrical half-circle, and sweeps over the precipice a perfect veil of water. At the second the water, cut up by jagged rocks, surges and boils over its rocky impediments, and reaches the bottom churned into masses of foam. It is a beautiful sight, and some excellent photographs of it were taken by Mr Hart, who is enthusiastic in praise of its beauties.

Returning to the ship wo had breakfast, and another trip was organised by Mr Todd to visit the reef. It had been no secret from the beginning that one of Mr Todd's object was to test the truth or otherwise of the alleged golden discoveries. The party had a rough experience in their journey, and on their return preserved a discreet silence as to the success of their mission. Just here it might be said that, whatever may be the outcome of the present enterprise, there can be no doubt as to the mineral wealth of the country around Pegasus. Indications pf stanniferous and other ores have been found, but the nature of the country is such, and prospecting in the interior is surrounded with so many difficulties, that it will be a matter of time and money to develop them.

Other adventurous spirits explored the bay, and were rewarded by discovering " bits " of scenery of exquisite beauty. A week could be spent in threadiug the intricacies of the numerous inlets, in which fresh beauties open up at every turn. Captain Cross, who accompanied us as pilot and guide, had conducted a party to a waterfall some miles in the interior, who on their return were so enthusiastic in their praise of its wonders that another party was got up by by Mr Todd. We started immediately after dinner, and pulling and punting as far up the tidal creek as possible, we took to the river and the bush, and a toilsome journey we found it. Now wading up to the knees, now scrambling through the dense undergrowth, we reached the waterfall, or waterslide, and our toils were forgotten in its beauties. Sweeping iv three curves of 100 ft each, a huge volume of water rolls majestically over its granite bed, each being divided from the other by a rocky platform, where the giddy waters after a brief respite are again precipitated with hideous roar and confusion until they reach the bottom. Here they disappear behind a rocky screen carved from their granite bed, and ac first sight seem as if lost in the bowels of the earth. They are found on near approach, however, to have cut for themselves a narrow channel tbrough which they rush and roar in fierce turmoil until they reach the bed of the river, where they pursue their placid course to the sea. It is a weird, interesting sight, and its beauties are enhanced by the beautiful surroundings. Facing the fall, and towering to the height of 1000 ft, is an almost perpendicular wall of forest. Nature has clad the naked rocks in a vesture of lovely green, and how the trees find a foothold in these rocky declivities is a marvel.

The remainder of the afternoon was filled in with a trip to a remarkable chasm in the rocks, leading to a cave which was named Johnson's Cave, after the popular host of th« Crescent. A king penguin had made its nest in the cave, and a youug one was captured by one of the sailors. Mr Hart, in spite of the lateness of the hour, got some fine pictures of this interesting spot. A concert was got up in the 'tween decks iv the eveuing, and Mr C. Basstian, jun., voted to the chair, and a splendid chairman he made, exploiting iv the course of the evening tome veins of musical talent which had long lain dormant. Mr George Bakor presided at the harmonium, and some excelleut songs were contributed by Messrs Churchward, Harfc, Todd, M'Oash, and others, while a clever topical song on some of the hnrnoin-A of the trip, by Mr George Baker, fairly brought down the house. Mr Basstiau proposal a vote of thanks to Mr W. Todd, to whoso enterprise he said we were indebted for our exceedingly pleasant trip. Mr Todd, in replying, expressed his satisfaction at the ie.sults of the expedition. The weather had been good, the scenery beyond all anticipation, while the prospects of the place in regard to mineral productions were, he considered, excellent. Every praise should also be given to Captain Suudstrum and his officers and crew for the gveafc pains they had taken to make the trip as pleasant and comfortable as possible. They had been simply untiting iv their exertions on our behalf.

Eirly next; morning we were again under way, and before many of us were astir had reached Halfmoon Bay. After a short stay we were again in the Straits. The wind, which had been gradually freshening, had now reached a gale, and fche Invercargill was shipping huge fleas, wtiioji rendered the position of those even on

the hurricane deck rather uncomfortable, and also found their way in such quantities into the hold (where a considerable number of us were assembled) that orders were given to batten down hatches. This caused a general stampede, but some of us elected to brave the darkness rather than the discomforts of deck.

Here in Cimmerian darkness we were lei b to chew the cud of our own bitter thoughts (to quote the novelist of the Reynold's school). The cud which some of us chewed, however, was equally bitter. My near neighbour, much to my discomfiture, gave, alas ! too audible vent to his anguished soul. 'Twas indeed " a H(e)art bowed down." Then to add to our troubles, two casks of •' Joey " Hatch's sheep-dip broke loose, and went careering all over the hold, and we spent; a rather bad quarter of an hour until they finally got jambed somewhere. However, all things have an end, and in 2J hours from Halfinoon we reached the Bluff (the fastest passage on record). After a hearty vote of thanks to Captain Sundstrum and his officers and crew, as pleasant a ship's company as ever met separated, all satisfied that they had, in spite of some drawbacks, one of the pleasantest excursions they had ever enjoyed. To the agent, Mr Campbell, and Captain Sundstrum and hid officers, as already said, every praise should be given ; and should any further trips be made, they are prepared to make provision to add to the comforts of excursionists.