CALENDAR FOR THE WEEK.

Otago Witness, Issue 1866, 26 August 1887, Page 8

CALENDAR FOR THE WEEK.

Flower Garden. — The various hardy annuals may now be sown in all the early districts if stocks have not been already provided for by autumn sowings. In late, cold' districts, however, it will be advisable to defer sowing till next month. There are a great many very handsome and useful plants belonging to that das? known

as hardy annuals that maybe used advantage-! ously for garden decoration, and more especially in the spring and early summer months. These plants soon arrive at the flowering stage and are not difficult to grow, therefore it is somewhat strange that they do not receive more attention in this part of the world. Early shown annuals should, when necessary, be carefully thinned but accordingly to the requirements of each kind, leaving ample space between the plants for free development. Annuals are too frequently grown in dense masses, when it is impossible for the plants to attain a fair development and yield fine flowers. This is a mistake, as annuals, like other plants, must have ample room for development, or otherwise they cannot give satisfactory results. There are many people who have no idea as regards the beauty and usefulness of annuals, because they never see them grown under the most favourable conditions. As many of the kinds will bear transplanting it will often be' advisable to use the surplus plants if space is available for them. Those kinds that require to be supported by sticks ( should have their wants attended to before growth is very far advanced. If early dahlias are required a few roots may now be started in heat, and when they have made shoots about Gin long these should be taken off as cuttings and potted in small pots filled with light, rich soil. The pots should then be stood in a warm frame, which ought to be kept rather close till the cuttings begin to make a start, when a little air may be given, increasing the supply as growth progresses. Water must be given sparingly until growth becomes active, as any excess of moisture will probably cause the cuttings to damp off. Plant anemone and ranunculus roots in dry weather, and when the ground is dry, but on no account when wee. Hardy annuals, such as nemophila, Collinsia, Clarkia. eschscholtzia, &c, may be sown in favourable situations in early districts for early blooming. There should be no further delay in transplanting roses, as if shifted later on when the sap is in full activity, the growth of the plants is likely to receive a severe check. If not already done the winter pruning of this family should be finished at once, as any further delay may cause injurious effects. This family often suffers severely from over-pruning, as many growers are apparently under the impression that plants as a rule ought to be cut back severely every winter. This practice is, however, decidedly wrong, as roses ought to be pruned according to the special requirements of the plants, and these will depend in a great measure up the nature of the variety, condition of the plant, and the requirements of the cultivator. Hard pruning is injurious to many varieties, though others may have their shoots shortened back rather freely with advantage. As a general rule those kinds that make very strong growth should be pruned so that the shoots will be from 6in to lft in length, as when shortened back to a few buds a vigorous growth of young wood is stimulated at the expense of the flowers. On the other hand, those .kinds that make a thin and weakly growth should have their shoots shortened back rather close. Roses may be readily propagated from cuttings, choosing healthy, vigorous, wellmatured shoots for the purpose. Those kinds that do not readily strike root from cuttings, such as the Cloth of Gold and others, may be easily propagated from layers.

Kitchen Gabden.— Sow another lot of peas, beans, spinach, lettuce, radish, endive, and fennel when required in the bleached state. Plant out cabbage, kale, savoy, sprouts, cauliflower, and celery, and a crop of potatoes when the ground is nice and mellow. Hoe frequently and deeply between young crops as soon as they have taken hold of the soil; begin this work and continue it as long as there is any chance of its doing good. Plant out globe artichokes and take up any Jerusalem ones that may have been left in the ground. Plant out rhubarb, seakale, and, on well-drained land, asparagus roots. In deep trenches set horseradish ; good, clean roots are seldom procured! from any but the best pulverised soil. Sow seeds and put in cuttings of thyme, marjoram, and other pot herbs.

Fruit Garden.— Any planting of fruit trees that is yet to dojshould be done without delay. So also with pruning, if not already brought to a close, let it be so at once. The apple may be planted or pruned later than any other fruit trees, but it is not well to defer such operations. Strawberry plantations that were made last autumn should be looked over with the view of making good any blanks that may have occurred through death during winter.

Gbebnhousb. — The lengthening day and increasing warmth under glass from the power of the sun will soon induce growth in plants generally. The treatment will require to be altered accordingly. As plants hitherto dormant or in a semi-dormant state show signs of returning activity, let them have increased supplies of water. Calceolarias should be shifted into larger pots, and kept close to the glass and away from cutting draughts, though air in abundance is desirable if it is mild. Cinerarias, primulas, cyclamens, which may be in flower, must be supplied with water sufficiently but with care, so that they should not become saturated, and also so as to prevent their damping at the crown or at the base of the leaves. Much damage is done in this way by needlessly wetting the foliage and flower stems at their most vulnerable part. Pelargoniums, fuchsias, everything in short that now shows a disposition to grow should be encouraged to do so. Chrysanthemums recently propagated should be potted off from the cutting pots before their roots become matted. They will require to be shaded for a few days after being potted off, and should be kept from draughts till they have again begun to grow. Camelias that may have finished flowering, and started growing, should be placed where they may have special treatment. If there is but one house, place them in such a position as that they can be syringed in the mornings of fine days and shaded from bright sunlight without interfering with the requirements of other subjects in the house. Potting generally should be pushed on in accordance with the requirements of the individual stock, but pot nothing till it is growing excepting bulbs or tubers. Insect life will rapidly increase with the increasing temperature, and measures should be taken to keep it'thoroughly in check. For ordinary greenhouse stock the thermometer need not range higher at night than 45deg, nor during the day than 55deg to 60deg, and air may be given when it rises to the latter point, but beware of admitting frosty air. Bedding plants of the tender sorts, if kept in the greenhouse during whiter, should be looked over and reckoned up, with the view of ascertaining stock in hand. Should there be a shortcoming between that and the requirements at bedding time, let no time be lost now in making up the deficiency. A hotbed will be required by cuttings of &U such as lobelias, ageratums, and verbenas.

Hotbeds for Cucumbers, Tomatoes, &c.

The best heat for a good hotbed is fresh horse dung. If this can be conveniently mixed with an equal bullr of forest leaves well moistened, tan, or was ie hops from a brewery, it will make a more certain and enduring heat. Dig out the loam to the depth of 2ft from the top of the frame. In the pit thus formed put in the heat to the depth of lOin or 12in,

treading it down firmly as forked in, and then spread over it 6in to lOin of the loam thrown out. Try the bed with a thermometer after placing on the glass, and after a day of two, if the temperature of the loam an inch below the surface is at 60deg to 75deg it will he right to sow seed. If hotter- than this it will be hardly safe to sow seed, and the bed should be aired very freely both night'and day, for seed is frequently destroyed by too much heat. If too hot the heat wul subside in a few days by airing. If the bed should not be above 60deg it will not need airing at all by night, and by bright sunlight the plants will bear a temperature lOdeg or 15deg higher than at night. ■ Try to keep the plants growing,. bat with a stocky growth, not drawn up or long-legged.

No one should undertake to run hotbeds who cannot easily give their constant oare and atten-. tion. They need to be covered every night with mats if the weather is at all cold, and in severe weather and with tender plants shutters should be placed over the mats in cold and rainy weather. When the sun shines brightly they will need more or less air, in giving which a good deal of experience and good judgment are required to produce the best results, and neglect even for an hour is sometimes fatal. The work requires patience and care.