FROM MAY TO THANKSGIVING IN LOS ANGELES, CALIFORNIA.

Otago Witness, Issue 1855, 10 June 1887, Page 14

FROM MAY TO THANKSGIVING IN LOS ANGELES, CALIFORNIA.

No. 11.

The ' City of the Angels - The Old Order of things and the New-The Plaza and its Adobe Houses— The Yellow Agony in all its Hideousness — The Founder of los Angeles-An American " Boom"— A land overflowing with Milk and Honey— The Blue Gum in its New Home— The Electric •Light, What the Boom means — Fruitgrowing,

Not at first sight does one get any proper idea of the beauty of Los Angeles city. Skirting along flat and unlovely land for a while ere reaching the terminus, and afterwards careering in a one-horse car over a dusty road, one's first impressions are not pleasant. From the untidy, littered, unfinished -looking neighbourhood of the depot this dusty road runs on through a desultory series of buildings until it narrows down into a street of adobe houses, small-win-dowed, low-roofed, all more or less out of repair, inhabited some by Chinese, but chiefly by a mixed race of Spanish and Indian or Mexican old time remnants, . A Dark-skinned, Black - eyed, Lankhairetl People,

all more or less poor and shabby-looking, and wearing, like their dwellings, an air of desertion and anticipated rain. This street changes at the Plaza, its continuation thence being Main street. The Flaza is a small circular park over a century old, planted chiefly with pine and cypress, prim and proper-looking trees, and all crop-haired, like charity children. East and south of this is another adobe street, a short thoroughfare beginning in a somewhat picturesque square, and widening out at the further end into the public market-place for hay and grain and the like farm produce, and thence continuing as Los Angeles street. There is an indescribable air of superiority about the adobe houses that form the square fronting upon the Flaza that proclaims them the oldtime home of " quality." Such quaint little houses they are, too ! with small, green-shut-fcered windows set oddly in the whitewashed walls, and tiny balconies, no larger than a fullsized easy chair, from which past generations of lovely, dark-eyed senoritas Bashed fascination upon passing cavaliers from behind their skilful fans. What tales ef Spanish love and adventure might not those prim, decorous pines and cypresses reveal were they but given to gossip of the days of their youth as old age often is ! Now every house in that street and square is tenanted by Chinese. The übiquitous heathen is in full possession, carrying out his unique notions in architecture with bits of string and scraps of old kerosene tins, after his wonted fashion ; hanging out his inevitable clothes lines from pillar to post, from porch to piazza. They were not a very wideawake people those ancient Spaniards, else they had not gone on from age to age as they did in indolent content with their primitive conditions of existence. They were not a busy, or brisk, or lively, or "smart" people, but, oh ! they were a prettier — in every sense a prettier— people thai, these swarming Asiatics. Is it in the inevitable " survival of the fittest " that these ■ unlovely aliens, with their immutably foreign habits, thoughts, and ideas, should be here planted in the homes built a century past and lived in and loved by generations of the fair poetic descendants of one of the grandest and oldest races of Europe ? It seems like sacrilege ; it jars one's sense of the eternal fitness of things to see them swarming there with their patches of tinsel and daubs of red paper all over the bruised old walls, their glaring signs of merchandise, their gaudy idols and tawdry fetiches, their refuse oast, after national habit, in front of their own doors, their odour of opium and unclean things, their patching up of broken and worn places with fragments of twine and old tin, and their indecent spread of washed linen over roofs and walls that should be left to gradual and graceful ruin, sacred to the ghosts of fair memories. (Since writing the above part of the Chinese quarter has been destroyed by fire, and the Plaza is undergoing alterations.) For half a century Los Angeles lay like

The Sleeping: Beauty of Fairy Lore, awaiting the advent of the prince. When he came to awaken her it was with fire and sword instead of the proper historical kiss. When the fair possession was wrested by America from the hold of its oarly owner, Mexico, the maiden slumbi:ml again, awakening now and then just long onnugh to yawn and wonder how the time passeii, until nearly the close of her first century of exUtenco, whon the legitimate Prince Prosperity came gaily along at last, touched the sweut oves and lips with a right royal salute— and, lo ! tho damsel is indeed awakened. She will sluuiher no more. She will make up for lost time. She will show the world what she is made of. And, being made of fruit and flowers, of milk and honey, of corn and oil, and " the wine that maketh glad the heart of man" — being rich and abundant in all things lovely and desirable, and not lacking in her composition the solidities of wealth, gold and silver, and the grosser though not less profitable minerals— being made of all such riches in so passing fair a shape uuder the bluest and suuniest of skies — the world, will be the betver for the showing, will be ever and ever the better for the sweet though tardy awakening of this Princess of Southern California. Aroused to sudden activity her city heart throbs with new business prosperity, aud she stretches out her long strong limbs over her hills aud dales. She will be a city of hills in her matronhood ; it is wonderful to see their round smooth surfaces so rapidly studded with new homesteads and neighbourhoods.

It is 105 years this last September since Don Philipe de Neve, then Governor of California, did formally found the Pueblo de Nuestra Senora de Los Angeles :

The City of Our Lady of the Angels. As late as 1873 the population numbered but 8000 ; iv 1880 it was no more than 11,000 ; now it is over 50,000, and increasing with an almost phenomenal rapidity. That is the number of the city population alone; the census for the county gives a, return of 80,000. Since 1880 Los Angeles has been enjoying that condition of active and increasing prosperity for which America has comed — with her own dexterity ia such phrase-coining — the expressive word " boom." Everything is " booming." A tremendous impetus to the boom was given by the " cut rates" resulting from railroad rivalry that marked the beginning of the present year. Many Eastern people who, availing themselves of the chanc9 of cheap travel, came hither only to see, decided on seeing that they had " come to stay," and only returned East to dispose of their properties there, and transplant their more precious belongings to the new horne —

glad to turn their backs on the tornadoes and cyclones, storms and hard seasons, sunstroke summers and frostbite winters, killed crops and spoiled harvests, so frequent in some less favoured states, and their faces towards a land fairer and more fertile than Moses' Land of Goshen.

Los Angeles is very proud of herself. " It's a great country, sir— a great country ! " is the Jefferson Brick echo from all quarters, and the newspapers take up the refrain with enthusiasm. The capabilities, achievements, and prospects of the place are in unwearied discussion ; the air is filled with " crowing," or is it more graceful to say " with the scream of the eagle" ? And why should the eagle not scream with such good reason ? What has been said about hiding the light under a bushel and burying the talent in a napkin ? To neither of these sins has Los Angeles to cry inea culpa.

Of a truth one must come to Southern California to fully understand the fame of the glorious climate. Here have we been from May to November, six months of a succession of loveliest days and nights ; in all the six moons not one whole week of bad weather, though you pick out every day that might by comparison be adjudged disagreeable and bind them all together in a sheaf. Warm sunny days and cool refreshing nights, blue skies and constant sunshine, and the most exquisite sunsets in the world. Never elsewhere have I seen the sun set evert/ night so gloriously — never before saw such delicate Mendings of colour, such opalescent radiance of atmosphere, such " garlands of pinks and of purples tender," lavished evening after evening on the western sky. Then the bounteous plenty of fruits and flowers ! The air is fragrant with the scent of heliotrope, jessamine, and orange blossom. Gardens are everywhere, even in the heart of the city, though the suburb Pasadena must be admitted The very Home and Bower of Flora and Pomona.

Orange and lemon trees hang their golden orbs over the pathways, and it says much for the honesty and orderliness of juvenile Los Angeles when many of the finest gardens are open to the street, unprotected from the chance of marauding by, even a rail fonce. Palms and bananas and all kinds of tropcal natives thrive as though they were at home. There is just enough of Australia in the weather to make us often homesick. Something in the pure, soft, yet exhilarating breath of May to bring back our owu September — our own

Spring, when the wattle gold trembles 'Twixt shadow and shine j And each dew-laden air draught resembles A long draught of wine ; something in the still, drowsy heat of long summer days, when the trees stand hushed and drooping in the fiery passion of the sun ; something that takes us back o'er time and tide to days " in the bush." remote from the dust and winds of great cities; and that memory may not lack stimulus, allround and about us grow our own gum-trees in luxuriance, so that sometimes we dream for a moment that we have never wandered at all — forget that it is a far cry indeed to the land of our love. Very many streets here are planted with the eucalyptus, varied with the pretty native pepper — a tree very like the English willow, but less " weeping " in aspect. In foliage it is even prettier than the willow, its leafy branches, fern-like in formation, growing in dense feathery masses of vivid green, plentifully intermingled with tassels of clustering red berries. The sombre greens and delicate blue-greys of the eucalyptus make a fine foil for the brighter tints of the feathery pepper. Though the latter is a native, it is no thriftier of growth than its Australian neighbour. 'Tis an amiable vegetable, my brother the gum, and will thrive apace wherever you plant it, give it only enough to drink. It is in great and deserved repute in this country as

A Healer of many of the Ills that flesh is heir to. It is in general demand as a balm for wounds, and a sovereign remedy for rheumatic aches and pains. I know an old man of 84, who trips about with the agility of half his years, who says that he owes health and strength — life itself — to the medicinal virtues of the eucalyptus.

"At 66," he says, " I was an old man, worn out with pains, stiff with rheumatiz, weak with old age — and look at me now ! "

He puffs out his little chest, pirouettes in front of you, and looks for all the world like a saucy cock-robin.

" Eucalyptus ! " he chirrups exultantly ; " it's all eucalyptus ! I live on it, sir — live on it ! "

You don't doubt him for a moment, for he smells like a walking gum-tree, and sells you a box of eucalyptus pills, price 50c.

Two special Features of Los Angeles strike one pleasantly from the first : one is the excellence o? its street paving, the other its splendid electric lights. After San Francisco's tripsome wooden sidewalks and terrible cobblestone roads, it is a positive delight to parade square after square of smooth flagstones, and to see the horses speeding freely by over the even asphalt of the roads, with none of the habitual wariness of gait and frequent stumbles that one notices with pain in the streets of California's capital. In our " new chum " period the Optimist used often to make us walk thab flagged section surrounding the Baldwin Hotel twice over when we passed that way — it was such a rest to one's feet., she said.

Los Angeles claims to be " the best lighted city in the Union." Without going all that length, since we know but few cities oi the Union, one must concede her right to boast of so fine a system of electric illumination. The lamps being mounted on masts 150 ft high, the radius is immense, and the effect superb. The peculiar quality of the electric light at that altitude in hiding what is directly beneath causes a momentary impression that the lamps are unsupported ; they shine like great new planets in the very sky. The effect of the radiance on the foliage of trees is singularly beautiful, though somewhat artificial and theatrical. The moon had need look to her laurels — yet a little while and the world will have no further need of her. Even now she is only made use of as a matter of city economy in Los Angeles, which is, in sooth, discouraging and uncomplimentary to her Lunaship. Yet surely she will ever retain her supremacy in the preference of lovers. What happy young he and she, abroad in first love's first blissful rambles, would hesitate & moment in choice between this glaring searching triumph of nineteenth century science and the old-time mellow radiance of moonlight, with its suggestive shadowy nooks and corners ?

It is to Colonel H. Rowland, an Eastern gentleman, that Los Angeles owes her exceptionally perfect electric lighting system. To the wellplaced enterprise of the same gentleman she will presently be indebted for

A Line of Electric Railway

which will distinguish her above most other cities in America. There are not lacking prophecies of failure to this scheme, among the

many reasons for which is advanced that of California's ancient addiction to earthquakes. The matter will soon be settled beyond dUpute, however, and present indications point distinctly to success. A homestead association connected witn the scheme has been for some time selling building allotments at very low prices, and with every 11 lots giving away a cottage or villa, on a sort of lottery plan by which every ticketholder is sure of a piece of land any way, but takes chances as to the value of the piece and its being further enhanced with a hqmestead. The advantages offered seemed so much too good to be true that we one day went out to " spy out the uakedness," bnt feund none to spy. Every foot of the land is fertile and easy cultivable, much of it already under cultivation. But we discovered the wherefore of the hitherto inexplicable generosity. Cheap allotments tempt buyers and builders ; handsome residences all along the line enhance the value, increase the price of railroad stock. Verbum sap., "Nuff'sed." " Gold lamps for silver ! " is an ancient and familiar cry, and has been uttered to their own great profit by many of the world's magicians since the days of Aladdin. There are but two cable car lines as yefc, and these scarce two miles each in length, but this is only for the present, and meantime there are horse-cars sufficient for general public convenience.

The city streets are wide and well planned, running for the most part at right angles and due the four cardinal points. _ One important exception to this uniformity exists in the junction of Main and Spring streets, the latter branching off at an angle from its commencement in the former, the effect being to improve rather than mar the appearance of that part of the town. These two are as yet the leading business streets, and are filled with fine buildings, many of which are new within the present year.

The Rapidity of Building rather startles one. To-day you look upon a vacant lot placarded, perhaps, " For Sale " ; tomorrow tho same spot is alive with workmen ; within a month or six weeks, behold a handsome dwelling, already inhabited and so artistically finished that it does not even look new, while in four or five months there is a flourishing, wellestablished garden. Of the older edifices here are notably the Catholic Cathedral in Main street and St. Vincent's Sanatorium out near the sheltering foothills. If ever sickness can be made enjoyable, it is out there in that beautiful hospital, with its evergreen surroundings and incomparable interior arrangements. Real estate ofiices and agents positively swarm. Almost every landowner has for the nonce turned land broker, the temptation being great when property often doubles its value in a single day, an allotment bought yesterday for 5000dol to-day sold for 10,000d01.. Another purchased quite recently for 8000dol now readily realising 15,000d01. These are not imaginary instances. In the changes consequent on such frequent transfer of property many old identities are rapidly disappearing — one in particular, the Old Round House, in Main street, surely deserved a better fate than total obliteration; it might have been turned to some public use and preserved as a curiosity ,'with its beajitiful grounds and the enormous and remarkable prickly pear or cactus that grew in front. The original owner, architect, and builder, known familiarly in his day as Crazy George, designed his quaint edifice for theatrical entertainments, a purpose it served for some time, and for which the arenalike interior was well adapted. Then it degenerated into a lodging-house. Now the place where it was will know it no more.

Fruit Cultivation is the staple industry of Los Angeles county. All kinds of fruits are abundant and cheap, but oranges rank first and chief. They are never out of the market all the year round. An orange orchard is one of the lovlicst sights in the world, and it is quite a common thing to see the rich yellow fruit and clusters of perfumed blossom on the same bough at the same time. Next to oranges in cheap plentifulness come peaches, grapes, and figs. The strawberry season was in its glory when we arrived in May ; they seem to have been a very little while out of sight, and here they are again, an abundant crop for Thanksgiving and Christmas. Every description of fruit pays well for its culture ; the profit in all is only a question of degree. A man makes a comfortable living for himself' and family from 10 acres of fruit garden or even desultory farming; there is a little independency in 25 acres. "Honey, too, pays well for a little attention, and will speedily change its initial letter for the cultivator's benefit. One of the special charms in this is that the industry may be all turned over to the little busy bees ; one need not even plant flowers for them, for they will make the finest honey from the black and white sage which grows wild o'er the land in great profusion. And as there is no winter here that bees would ever recognise as such, the active little creatures are beguiled into working all the year round, while the proprietor improves the shining hour by walking off with their sweets as fast as they manufacture them.

Now and then one hears a dissentient voice amidst the chorus of general praise of Los Angeles. " But why then," asked the Optimist, when we had listened a while to one of these the other day, " why then do you stay here if you find the place so objectionable? If the heat makes you perspire, and the cool evpuings put you to the trouble of donning wraps ; if the dust soils your stockings," (let it be mentioned, en passant, that were this city liablp to San Francisco's summer zephyrs, life would be a burden by reason of the dust. A 6 it is> it s-unply lies dormant and harmless, ankle deep in some streets), " and the hills make you tired, and the people have no style about them ?" For of such mighty defections as these were the complaints made up. The reply was prompt and comprehensive. "Why do I stay? Why, because I get 18 per cent, for my money."

The speaker was from Chicago, and was " reckoned right smart "as a business woman, she told us. She attended to her investments herself, and was willing to admit certain attractions in a place where you could get 18 per cent, for you money, and at the same time live in tolerable style in [lodgings for from lOdol to 15dol a week.

The Optimist said it was quite a comfort to know that she had found some compensation for the hardship of living here, and she replied quite seriously, " Yes ; " then looking at us inquisitively, said : " You're English, ain't you ?"

We acknowledged the compliment instantly. "We would not deny our country madam," I said, with a smile intended to prepare her for the coming jest, " even if we were American." But the poor little joke — a plagarised joke at that — fell flat. The lady from Chicago pondered it a moment, then gravely said, "No offence, I hope." I had not courage to explain ; my companions were enjoying my discomfiture, so I said, "Not at all. Certainly," with the cheerful imbecile incoherency peculiar to such moments of embarrassment. The Chicago lady resumed her frank and liberal use of the gratis wooden toothpicks that so plentifully garnished the restaurant table, whereat chance

had brought us together, drew us into other conversation, and waited to hear us drop our " h's." All 4mericans expect it of us. It is a curious national error, if one may judge the nation by its press, that all English people, irrespective of position and education, naturally misuse the letter " h." It is comical to read the speech of even educated Englishmen, quoted with not only a dropping, but an outrageous misplacing of the distracted little letter that the veriest cockney 'Arry could scarce achieve without effort. The Chicago lady, obviously much disappointed in us, presently gathered together her costly knicknacks, rustled out her stiff rich draperies, paid her 25 cents for dinner, and sailed on! to look after her 18 per cents. " Fancy such people being so rich !" said the Pessimist discontentedly, " they don't know how to enjoy their money."

"O, don't they, though ?" exclaimed the Optimist. " You'd better believe they do. Why, the mere fact of having it is boundless enjoyment to that woman. She revels in every dollar of it, whether in spending or saving it. She enjoys the rustle of it in her stiff silks, she enjoys the sight of it in her expensive fan and satchel, the jingle of it in her bangles and bracelets. Everything represents money to her, and people like that get ten times the solid satisfaction out of it, I believe, than those who are born to it and never know the lack of it." — Thorpe Talbot. .