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THE LAKES OF KILLARNEY.

It was pouring with rain when we started by coach for Killarney, but fortunately the weather* soon cleared, and the sun shone forth in all its regal splendour. The road is very grand as it winds through the valley of Gl ngarift 5 , and strikes across the mountains up a steep pass, which we ascended on foot. When near the summit it enters a tunnel 200 yards long. The town of Kenmare lie 3 'at the foot of this mountain, Soon after leaving this town . behind we traversed another fine pass, descending which we observed in the distance some silvery streaks, which on a nearer approach proved to be lakes studded with numerous lovely little aits. By the time we had reached level ground we entered a thick wood, and through the vista of the trees we now and then obtained a glimpse of the Lakes of Killarney. We continued ovir journey until at the end of the wood we came upon the hotel in which we had previously engaged rooms. The Lakes of Killarney are by far the most beautiful in the United Kingdom. Densely wooded mountains rise up majestically on all sides, imparting a sense of exquisite peace to the scenery, which is not wild, but fairy-like, differing in this respect from our other lakes. These lovely lakes consist of three distinct sheets of water, designated as Lower, Middle, and Upper. The lower one is five miles long by three wide; on the bosom of this beautiful piece of water are calmly lying upwards of thirty charming islets. It is connected with the Middle Lake, one-seventh its size, by three narrow channels, and the upper one is joined to this last-mentioned by means of the river, which, being two miles in length, is called the Long Reach. The Upper Lake has- a wilder appearance, on account of its nearer vicinity to the mountains ; it contains twelve smail islands all extremely lovely. I must return to the description of the Lower Laice, in order to mention that it is impossible to approach it but by going through the grounds of Muckross, belonging to Mr Herbert. There is a charge of one shilling per •head for the privilege of passing through them — a great imposition, as everyone thinks. The ruins of an abbey are shown to the visitor, perfect of its kind ; the roof is formed by a gigantic tree, with a girth of thirteen feet, that entirely covers this part of the ruins. One day we took a row on the lower lake, visiting the island of Innisfallen, on which is an abbey and chapel ; also a glen in the mountain called the "Tomies," where there is a very pretty waterfall, designated O'Sullivan's 'Cascade. Here I met with an unpleasant adventure. We had clambered up to the summit, to enjoy the view of the lakes, and had descended half-way, when I jumped oft a rock on to a beautiful mossy spot, where grew in vast luxuriance the Hymenophyllum tunbridgense, as also that very rare Killarney fern, the fronds of which are only to be procured at 2s Gd each, unless the tourist is fortunate enough to find a root for himself. To return to the relation of my accident, the ground suddenly gave way under me, and precipitated me' down ! the p;is.s ; luckily T struck against a tree, clutching it with all my might. I hung, thus suspended, about 40ft over the Fall. | By dint of careful climbing I regained my

footing on terra fir-ma, to the great relief of my friends, who, as may be expected, were terrified at my situation. A very charming excursion may be made to the Gap of Dunloe, so called because the summit of the mountain pass has the appearance of a gap. We started very early in the morning. At the entrance to the pass there stands a cottage, in which dwells the grand-daughter of Kate Kearney of ♦'ancient reuown." Her descendant is an ugly old hag, the pest of visitors, whom she follows about, pertinaciously offering a mixture of goat's milk and mountain dew (whisky), which, having been carried in the sun for hours, is anything but delectable, I should- imagine. We followed the ascent by a mere bridle path, which becomes gradually more and more grand and gloomy in its aspect, sometimes winding along a dark and dismal tarn covered with water lilies. From the summit a splendid view is to be obtained over the Black Valley and the Upper Lake. Instead of descending by the path we pursued our way over bog and stream, arriving at the lake through Lord Brandon's woods. Here the boats from the hotel were awaiting us near a small cottage, as had been arranged beforehand; this picturesque little edifice is often the scene of picnics and teas. Our boatmen informed us that our gracious Queen, with her royal consort, partook of some tea there during their stay at the lakes. Heartily glad we were of the calm, quiet row back to our hotel after our fourteen miles walk. I had no idea that auywhere in the British Isles was to be found such lovely scenery as that of the Long Keach, which connects the Upper and Middle Lakes. The passage through the narrow channel is so completely hidden by' huge boulders and foliage that it is customary with the boat* men to bet a bottle of whisky that you cannot tell them were the outlet is. With great care I examined the current, and at last pronounced that it lay to the left. A loud shout of laughter greeted this assertion, as at that moment the boat shot round to the right". In entering the Lower Lake we passed under the Weir Bridge ; here the rapids are very strong, and consequently dangerous; the passage through them was very exciting, and we were fain to close our eyes until they were passed; nevertheless the sensation is so pleasant that were quite sorry to find ourselves once 'more in smooth water. One misty morning we ascended Mangerton. The sun was tropical, and not'a breath of air stirred the bright green foliage as we slowly mounted the path, which is but the stony bed of a dried-up stream for one-third of the way ; but as we proceeded there was a decided improvement, and it became more passable. Atoout three-fourths of the way up we came to a dark, gloomy tarn, called the Devil's Punch Bowl, on one side of which the rocks are quite perpendicular. From this spot a very stiff breather brings you to the summit of the mountain, 2756 ft above the level of the sea. After a short rest, we descended on the other side of the mountain ; in doing this a narrow ledge of lock has to be crossed, on either side of which is a precipice, the one 700 ft in depth, the other 2000 ft. Unfortunately, as it is often the case in ascending mountains, the mist obscured the view greatly, though at the same time it added grandeur to the scene. On our way back, we were passed by a bicyclist racing as if for life up a hill. Just at this moment the Glengariff coach came in sight, the driver of which whipped up his horses to a gajlop, in order to overtake and upset the rider of the bicycle. Luckily for the latter he had attained the top of the hill, down which he dashed, soon leaving the coach behind. The morning before we left, we had one more row to the Middle Lake to see the Colleen Bawn Caves. They are well worth a visit. We were rowed in backwards for a few yards, and then a most extraordinary sight was presented to • us. A number of rocks are shaped naturally into a succession of arches, the pillars of which are exact resemblances of elephants' legs. Our boatmen to-day were very old men, full of legends and quaint stories. Tney told us that it was supposed that the O'Donoghue lived at the bottom of the lake, and every May morn, at sunrise, he ascends from the depths mounted on a white horse, and well armed, to look after his property. The people actually believe this legend, and affirm, too, that he will never die. With this wonderful piece of superstition ended our charming associations with the Lakes of Kilarney. — Cablos, in the Queen.

Permanent link to this item

https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/OW18860820.2.132

Bibliographic details

Otago Witness, Issue 1813, 20 August 1886, Page 34

Word Count
1,410

THE LAKES OF KILLARNEY. Otago Witness, Issue 1813, 20 August 1886, Page 34

THE LAKES OF KILLARNEY. Otago Witness, Issue 1813, 20 August 1886, Page 34

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