THE VATICAN.

Otago Witness, Issue 1777, 12 December 1885, Page 26

THE VATICAN.

An Interesting- Description or tun Roman

Catholics' Mecca.

When first, from a point near the Pincio, writes a Rome correspondent to the St. Louis Republican, I beheld that mighty pile flanked by the monumental dome, the creation of a genius second to none other, my impulse was — to kneel. No need of shaft and tower, or architectural trick— the finger of history, past and present, points with significant gesture to that ' long unbroken lino, which is majestic beyond measure in its expression of dignified, massive strength. Tho largest palace, save one (the Tuileries) in the world ; when one considers the treasures there sheltered, the part it has taken in the affaii's of this little globe since the third century, when we first bi'fiin to hear of it as a centre of power — the fact that at present scarcely a day passes without seeing some one .of the earth's potentates, divines of every belief, litterati, crowned heads, representatives of every nation, coming to pay homage to the fragile, pale old man who remains there a prisoner, who retains, despite his age and feebleness and bondage, such vigour of intellect as still to hurl encyclical letters against a wavering nation and respond to the call of the two hundred millions of beings who look to him for spiritual direction, it is impossible to pronounce the Vatican in any sense " uninteresting." Here, too, one might consider the Italian characteristic absence of display. They do nothing for show, and this sentiment pervades their architecture. You see some wonderful facades of churches, a few cathedrals that are miracles of beauty and grandeur, but the palaces arc built for strength, endurance, find comfort, to keep out the heat and cold, and as a protection, not au advertisement, to the beauties within. In all Italian cities, especially Rome and Naples, you will pass in the midst of shops and business long walls, with heavily iron-grated windows far up from the ground, and never give a second glance, unless you chance to look as you pass the immense portal, when you Avill be electrified with glimpses of playing' fountains, exquisite statuary, greensward, Oriental foliage, gorgeous flowers — everything that art and taste can suggest. Then one learns to watch for these openings with a sort of nervous expectation lest such delicious vistas shall pass unseen. So, like other palaces, the Vatican is built to resist decay. But let us leave the outside and pass within. What do you find ? That fluent writer Tame, who is generally not overburdened with respect for anything under the patronage of religion, says : " The Vatican is probably the greatest treasury of antique sculpture in the world." Murray, the Protestant historian : " There is no pa] ape in the world which apr proaches the Vatican in interest, whether we regard its prominent position in the history of the church or the influence exercised by its collections on the learning and taste of Christendom for nearly three hundred years." Members of the Papal Court tell us that it numbers 11,000 rooms, 20 courts, eight grand staircases and two smaller ones. It contains gallery after gallery filled with statuary that has been the study of the world ; musuum after museum, Etruscan, Egyptian, everything; and its picture gallery, though containing not over fifty pictures, is pronounced the finest in existence. This is making no mention of the celebrated stanze of Raphael, and numberless other treasures of art. Its library displays the rarest collection of manuscripts and books known, comlivtsing the *' ' Codex Vatieanes,' or Bible of the early pwi of tlio fourth century, in Greek, containing the oldest, of the sentuagint version oE the Scriptures and the nrsJ; Greek one of the New Testament. It is supposed to, have been one of the fifty copies procured at Alexandria by Eusebius, by order of Constantine, for the churches of Constantinople." Tn this magnifi.

cent library are to be seen the costliest presents that from time to time have been sent from emperors, kings, and queens to the various Popes, offerings worthy of the august parties concerned and the nations represented.

The perspective of the gallery of inscriptions, nearly a thousand feet in length, is wonderful ; also of the first grand staircase, which consibts of two gradual flights lined with pillars and pilasters, with richly carved ceiling. One needs a good opera-glass to distinguish a friend at the farthest end. ff, with this endless, superb variety, which taxes and bewilders the mind that vainly tries to comprehend and grasp all, one finds nothing of interest he will fail to find it in this sphere.

The 30th of July was a busy day at the Vatican, and as early as 7 o'clock carriages filled with gentlemen in dress suits and ladies in black, with veils instead of bonnets, the prescribed toilet for state occasions, begau to I'oll thither, although the ceremony that attracted — the bestowal of the hat upon six new Cardinals — did not take place until 11 o'clock. The two fine hall through which the Pope is carried on such occasions are filled with an expectant throng, among which may be seen many representatives of the historic families of Italy, and as the ambassadors to the Vatican, loaded with decorations, and distinguished visitors are escorted through the long line of guards, who give a military salute, tho scene is very effective. This is heightened by the' unique and picturesque costume of the Swiss Guards, designed by Michael Angelo ; those more practical of the Palatine Guards, the Carabinievi, and the stately Noble Guard. These last are chosen from noble families alone, and can be commanded only 'by one from the ancient houses Barberini or Altieri. Here and there flit the attendants of the papal household in red silk costumes ; the " camerieri segreti " in black, short velvet mantles hanging from the shoulders, knee-breeches, long stockings, slashed sleeves, ruffs, and quantities of gold chains.

Six of the Swiss Guards make a fine pose leaning upon enormous antique swords or halberds a thousand years old, which originally belonged to the six Swiss Catholic cantons. At the appointed hour a hush in the throng and expectant looks tell that the " Holy Father " is coming. Slowly, silently, preceded by the Noble Guard and followed by a long train of cardinals and monsignori in scarlet and purple, approaches this illustrious prisoner of the Vatican through the double lino of soldiers, who kneel and salute as he passes. Vested in white, wearing a mitre heavy with the costliest pearls, he is seated in a chair of red* and gold upon a platform of red, and borne aloft above the crowd by twelve sturdy men, habited in red, knee-breeches, long-stockings, cocked hats, &c. Two carry above him the flabellia, or two iinmeuse white oriental fans, which sway in the air, and as this strange cortege draws near one almost fancies himself transported back for a few centuries. He looks wearied and worn, and frequently leans back for a moment, wish closed eyes, as though to recover strength, to lift his thin, trembling hand in benediction, which all reverently kneel to receive.

The ceremony is fatiguing and a little warm this 30th day of July, and I will only mention one more scene connected with it. At the proper time twelve cardinals went into the Sistine Chapel to escort those who were to receive the hat. They issued in groups, two old cardinals accompanying each new one, with friends of the clergy and gentlemen in waiting, preceded and followed by two of the Swiss. It is most interesting to watch this assemblage of celebrated men, and study 'their physiognomy — to linger afterward and see the greetings and kissing of hands among these courtly-mannered people. Then the Pope is carried in his low chair to his private apartment ; the guards aud soldiers and commandants disperse; the carriages that fill the largo court roll away,' and again the Vatican is silent. The Pope, or Vatican, has three mitres — one covered with diamonds, one with precious stones of many kinds, and a third, worn on this occasion, with pearls of various colours. This mitre was the especial property of Pio Nonp, who left it to his successors ; one pearl alone, a gift to him from Maria Christina of Spain, cost £0200. Leo XTII is an indefatigable student — rises at 7, or earlier, and after mass and- other duties plunges into his books with the ardour of a " glovanotto " youth. His fluency in modern languages is not great here, where people often speak seven, but in Latin he is powerful.