The Explorer.

Otago Witness, Issue 1584, 1 April 1882, Page 8

The Explorer.

A MONTH AMONG C T THE MOUN-

A PHOTOGRAPHER'S DIARY.

It was to be a month's trip, or nearly so, but there must be deducted two days' steaming from Port Chalmers to Milford Sound andtwo days for the return trip ; so that there remained just 22 days net — that is, if the Union Steam Ship Company's steamers kept exact time. Thiß Company arrange for several of their vessels to call at the Sounds both to and from Melbourne The last of these callers for the present season was to be the Rotomahana, leaving Port Chalmers on February 2nd ; and t'other way the Rotorua, leaving Melbourne on the 21st, being due at Milford Sound about five days later— namely, the 26th. An application for a return-ticket for Milford Sound was met by the bland explanation that , the Company did not give return-tickets on such occasions, as they could not guarantee that their steamers would call in at Milford Sound at all. This was refreshing intelligence, truly, as in case of weather preventing the last steamer from calling in, the only thing would be to patiently wait for the visit of the Government steamer Stella, on one of her lighthouse inspection trips, and then be carried, gome time in the course of the autumn, away to Wellington. However, a " single" ticket was taken, the resolve being to "risk it." It was to be the writer's fourth trip to the Sounds ; but on this occasion it was not to be merely the Sounds that were to be photographed, but a long-'cheiished design was to be carried out, and this was to make way into the mountains, striking into the interior from Milford by way of Arthur liivcr. Thoie had boon a standing challenge from Mr Donald Sutherland, wiio has lived four or five years in the Sounds, to pilot the writer into a district of weird beauty and surpassing grandeur, by ways only known to himself and his mate. The programme of the scenic entertainment 'promised included a waterfall more than 4000 feet high', appropriately named, after its discoverer, ' Sutherland Falls. Visitors to Mi) ford Sound, who have noted v/ith admiration the ' Bowe'n Fall, are invited to imagine its height multiplied by eight ! Another wondrous item was Mount Balloon, a mighty monolith cut by Nature's >own hand, which, standing as on a vast base, upon a range of hills 4000 feet above theußea, towers, in shape like an enormous Cleopatra's, Needle, 1200 feet higher into the heayens ! , Mount Balloon it is fittingly named, aa'by-no other means will io ever be topped by man. . The most distant of these wonders was about 30 miles from Miliord; and to those whose ideas of travelling reach only to railways or turnpike roads, it may seem absurd to make a. fuss about such a distance ; but eight days of fine weather w,ould be needed for the trip, • and in, our, variable climate it can be seen how , easily i these ; eight days might be doubled, or . evea trebled, ere headquarters could be reached i again,! , Ample. ,enmloyment for the camera < . in Lake Ada and- on the Poseidon. River, through which the way to Mount Balloon, lay. Npw, .then, to begin— diary, fashion :< — - 1 , r ; ■ , * ' , February 2nd.— Depart Port Chalmers in the Bojiomahana.i Captain Underw.ood. . There is no»ee.d-tp -bombast out?'tbis account with details oi. f,'. board-steamer " life, though, as. our i fellow passengers included a venerable bifehop and 'a veteran, actor, there would be some exoUße fpr indulgence in 1 penny-a-lining, cialty when the.bishop gravely iflformedusithat ' be had once passed. a.. night i in. a lock-up on the . West Coast! As to the "veteran," he (was amiable • enough 'to "allow himself to! be drA*ni'outupon two most interesting topics— his early' Colonial experiences, and Shake- • speare'. '»He' 'related' a story 6i a successful digger, whoJ calling for'a'oase of champagne, arranged nine of the 'bottles as skittles ? ;'and hurled the remaining three at them'in lieu of • balk. The total cost of this lavish gentleman's ''spree" 'was the- respectable sum of £850. Another reminiscence must be related. The *• veteran" was acting as money-taker for a benefHrentertainment; Front seats, ss ; back seats, 3s. Enter four diggers. " Back seats, gentlemen?" he asked w jth great suavity. ' ' Back seats? '' No,* you (so-and-so.) Front seats!" clapping down a £5-note and passing in. "your change, sir," called out the "veteran." Said the' digger, ''■' (So-and-so)-' the change! Keep it, you hungry-looking beggar!" Veteran pocketed the affront and carried the change to private account. Of course, everyone has heard many such stories ; but it is pleasant to hear them again from one who was an actual eye and ear witness ; now especially, as those early , diggings times seem to belong to a very remote and miaty past. February 3rd. — Made the usual call at the Bluff, leaving again at 4 p.m. Genial veteran again delighted us with his reminiscences, drawing from the rich storehouse ofj his memory anecdotes of actors and actresses, Jiving and dead, able and , unable. Especially - was ,it refreshing , to hear him, when talking of " acting editions," express his utter contempt for those beings— such as Colley Cibber, Tait, and Garrick— who had darea to " improve" upon Shakespeare. February 4th. -All was anxiety this morning as to the weather, for we were due in Milford Sound early in the afternoon. _ The writer was lifted into a position of fictitious and temporary importance on the strength of his previous visit, and especially as being "the man who was to be left at Milford." Martin Chuzzlewit, it will be remembered by all readers of genuine history,, was complimented by a levtSe at Colonel. Kedgick's hotel on his, departure for the new, settlement of Eden ; but it only came out afterwards that the excitement among the citizens whom he "received" arose from the ' fact that, as the' Colonel put it, "he was not like' emigrants in general. . . Nobody as goes to' Eden ever comes back alive." If the presumption involved in such a comparison may b>e forgiven, there is some parallelism in the cases. ' Early in the morning there seemed Home likelihood of fine weather, but as the day wore on the sky became more and more leaden-hued, until we entered Milford in a steady downpour. But few of the marvels of this moat marvellous of the Sounds were the jßotomahana's passengers privileged to see. Just a few hundred feet of perpendicular cliff on either side, with countless cascades rushing down ; above, the' rolling misti through which ever and anon the summit of Kimberley would appear for n, few moments ; but the Mitre remained hidden, and of glorious Pembroke there was not a sign. " Now, sir," called out the chief officer, " boats all ready ; will you point out your traps ?" In a few minutes the "social hall of the Rotomahana was exchanged for No. 1 Kennedy street, Freshwater Basin, and the steamer resumed her voyage to Melbourne. The " city " of Milford makes quite an imposing show from the water, no less than three Jbuildings revealing themselves to the astonished .gaze of those who had imagined that there wore #10 aigns of civilisation in this out-of-the-way (flpat. jFeiwwary sth.— A glorious day ! The camera was uoqnflt work, and eight "exposures " made breakfast. To see Milford Sound in perfeotion, the day should not be too clear. A jperfeotly .ctoudjlesa sky seeinß to minify the

heights of the mountains, and to render somewhat reasonable the incredulity of visitors unused to mountainous regions when they are told that such-and-such a peak is nearly a mile and a-quarter in (perpendicular height. But let fantastic masses of cloud wreathe the giant mountains, or hang like a belt around the peaks, always leaving the actual'summits clear above ; then let the spectator wander away until he has lost sight of every indication of human companionship, and he will realise the combined immensity and beauty around him. February Gth«— Another change. A pouring rain, a gale of wind, the spray from the Bowen Falls— hidden from us by Cemetery Pointdriving across the Sound, and the Cleddau River rushing down with great violence a few yards from our doors, and in the worst of it the Te Anau, from Melbourne, made her signal by whistle. The whole of the (permanent) inhabitants of Milford put off in a boat to the steamer, taking with them a gentleman of Invercargill who had just finished a sketching tour. On its return the progress of the boat was followed with anxiety by the eyes of tho solitary observer on the beach. Duly rounding the point, it shot out of tho driving mist, and then — suddenly disappeared ! Rapidly through the watcher's mind passed the thoughts T " Alone, the steamer gone, no boats, no sign of human beings, and no communication with the outer world for three weeks." On the other hand, there were plenty of provisions and a good roof. And here a selfish thought would obtrude itself. Could the survivor be regarded , as the inheritor of the property around ? However, there was no need, happily, to pursue" that subject, as the boat reappeared as sudI denly as it had vanished. It had merely been hidden by the branches of a large tree that had been carried down the Cleddau by a recent freshet, and now was fixed in mid-stream. February 7th.— Another wot day, clearing up towards evening ; took advantage of this to get some negatives, with delicious "effects." Rigged up one of tho huts as a dovolo|ringroom, covering up windows and fireplace, shutting out the evening light, which would steal in at the crevices in door and floor. The result of this first batch of "developing" was highly encouraging. February Bth.— Showery, but managed to get a few negatives. February 9th.— Wet; but stole a couple of negatives just before dark. February 10th.— Showers occasionally, and leaden sky all day, defying photography. February 11th.— Showery again, but with occasional peeps of blue sky ; so managed to dodge the weather and secure a dozen negatives. Had a grand "medicine talk " this evening as to the probability of getting to Mount Balloon. Out of the 22 days seven were already gone. The guide (Sutherland) said we must have two fine days before it would be prudent to start, as the bush would not otherwise be fit to travel through. ' Still there was as yet a margin of four or five days, so "turned in" hopefully. February 12th.— Wet, oh, so wet ! February 13th.— A grand day. Pulled down to Harrison's Cove, and did a great strokeexposing no less than 29 plates from all, parts of the beach ; secured some grand views of the "Lion" and Pembroke Peak. While the photographer was "taking" the peaks,, the other two of the party were " taking" the fish, and at midday a most appetising al fresco meal 'was discussed. A four-mile pull home ; then tea; then developing till midnight; then. a consultation as to probability of reaching ultima thule— in our Mount Balloon. ' Turned in at 1 a.m., hoping that the next, or rather that, day would be as fine as the preced : ing' one. But, ,oh !— ' ', February 14th was just a damper. Spirits very low ; hopes of reaching the mountain mow very slight. February 15th.— A grand day. Photographer in his glory— hard at work aU day "bagging" negatives m all directions ; ditto all night developing. February 16th.— Clambered up the "slip" above the huts a few hundred, feet, and! was gladdened with a distant view of Lake Ada, and made six successful shots at jt and the surrounding scenery. Spirits, which in the morning had been buoyant, were depressed, in sympathy with the weather, in the afternoon—darklowering. . ' February 17th.— Wet once more. " Crushed again." Thirteen days had now gone, i and reluctantly the truth had to be faced that Mount Balloon would for this time escape the trying ordeal of being " took." To get to Lake Ada was now the extreme of our ambition, even if that modest goal could be reached. February 18th. — Wet once more, and, to vary the monotony, hail and thunder in addition. February 19th.— Very much the same ; rather more so, if anything. February 20th. — The morning opened deliciously. What had been rain to us we found had been snow on the heights, and Mitre Peak especially was a glorious object. To watch the changing hues on its brilliant summit-rfirst blue grey, as the light of early morning struck it ; then golden, as it caught the first direct rays of the sun ; then dazzling white, against ] a background of brilliant blue— surely nothing earthly could be more beautiful. Our practical photographer became rapturous, till he recollected that his mission was not to poetise but to depict, and forthwith he was " up to his eyes" in negatives. For only a part of the day, however. Once more tho clouds gathered, showers fell, and hopes of reaching the lake fell likewise. There was still a chance, though. If to-morrow were fine, then j

February 21st.— And it was fine. " Explored" all day ; packed up for Lake Ada ; then " developed" all night. February 22nd. — Weather all that could be wished, and with every probability of continuing so. The first part of the journey was ' by boat up the .Arthur River, and delicious pictures were revealed at every bend of the stream. These were duly "spotted" by the operator, and a day's work hereabouts planned should there be time on the return. As we pulled up the river the navigation became more and more difficult, the utmost exertions of our two powerful and skilful oarsmen being unable to stem the current which rushed by "Manoeuvring Rock" until the tide had risen sufficiently to counteract it. Now came the second phase of the trip. Blankets, food, and photographic paraphernalia, previously divided into throe swags (the photographer— in consequence of his " youth" and inexperience —having been considerably made light), were now shouldered, and the "march through the bush and over the boulders in the river bed began. The bush part was the more preferable as a capital track had been cut by Sutherland and his mate ; but the boulder part was a caution." A short "blow" was allowed at " Smoke ho !" (half-way), and another good long spurt carried us to the foot of Lake Ada. At the end of the track we duly found the i canoe (17 feet long) which our explorers had "dug out" of a birch tree two seasons ago. Swags were slipped from the shoulders and stowed in the little craft to the great relief of one of the party, and Sutherland and the photographer paddled their, or rather the former's, own canoe up the lake. The third member of the party (Mr Malcolm) retuitifll the boat, engaging; to meet the

others on the Arthur River on the evening of the next day but one. Lake Ada is some eight miles long by an average breadth of about a mile and a-half. It is by no means deep ; indeed, in comparison with other Otagan lakes it maybe considered remarkably shallow, being only about 10 or 12 fathoms in the deepest part. It is the opinion of "the guide" that the judicious expenditure of a few charges of dynamite among the boulders where the Arthur River leaves the lake would reclaim a large portion of its surface, leaving just a channel for the stream. And how fertile would be the banks of the stream then ! Though a stranger might be incredulous, it is a fact that there is a considerable amount of level land in the valleys and gullies, with soil of a rich chocolate, and often of great depth. The height of Lake Ada above the Sound is about 100 feet. There is no part of the lake which does not abound in points of beauty, scarcely a turn or an islet which does not "make" a fresh picture; but the completest effect is gained from the centre. Then you have on the right-hand Sheerdown Hill (how unobtrusively is this mighty mass named ! ), which is so grand an object at the head of the Sound, and the peculiar peaks of Camp Mountain ; next, the Wick Mountains, with a glimpse of the Sinclair chain through the gorge of Joe's River ; next, right ahead, the imposing Castle Mountain, only a very few feet short of 7000; then, more distant, and still loftier, Mount Daniel, the Danger Mountains, and range after range cut apart by deep defiles. On our right hand the fantastic Terror Peaks, with tho strangelyshaped summit, to which the restful appellation of the " Devil's Armchair " has been given. Lastly, behind us are Mount Phillips (beautiful here, but the only ugly mountain as seen from the Sound), the Barren Peaks, and even a glimpse of the far-off monster, Mount Titoko. One of the most noticeable features of tho locality must not bo omitted. On the west side of tho latter a densely- wooded sweep, like an inverted arch, one side descending from a spur of the " Devil's Armchair," and the other reaching up to a companion peak a. mile or more away to the south, forms a mighty wall, behind which and far beyond rise tho Terror Peaks spoken of above. In the very centre of this inverted arch— if that term conveys a clear idea to the reader's mind— is a vast rift, narrow, but something like 1200 feet deep. This defile is impassable, and the hidden wonders of the huge amphitheatre, of which only glimpses are obtainable, can only be discovered by climbing the mighty forest-covered screen itself. What startling effects of glacial action that enormous basin would exhibit can only as yet be conjectured. However, the rift itself, called the Giant's Gate, is anearnestof what may fairly be expected to be revealed. Sutherland, the guide, has determined _to solve this question when other more pressing mattersof exploration and prospecting will allow him sufficient leisure. On reaching the head of the lake a well-pitched tent was found, in good order, and while one attended to matters culinary, the other made the best of the daylight that remained, taking six negatives— the only difficulty being to make a choice amongst the wealth of .scenery spread around. ' A few drops of rain falling while at supper, filled both with fear as to the morrow. Had we, then, but reached thus far to be tantalised with "a sight of what might be done if only the weather would allow ? Even though the floor Jof the tent was as elastic as a spring mattress, occasional showers through the night made sound sleep impossible ; for should wet weather be likely to set in in earnest, we must start back without delay of an hour. February 27th.— All forebodings vanished, for this morning was simply delicious. The lake was without a ripple; the snow-clad peaks were mirrored with startling exactness — a slight belt of fog just hiding the water-line, while fleecy clouds enveloped the shoulders of the mountains. Needles* to say the camera was "at it "—a coo-ec to breakfast was felt as almost a nuisance. The meal despatched, we paddled up the Poseidon River, "working" the country as we went. In photographing such a country as this, a billhook is almost as riecesBary as a camera, for while one (the photo-grapher-in-chief) spots and "composes" the view, the other clears away the undergrowth that would have blocked up the pictures, and thus "opens up the country." We were now floating upon the upper lake or lagoen, out of which the Poseidon River runs, and one could not suppress a feeling of self-gratulation at being the first to depict such scenes as those among which we were revelling. As many as 20 or 30 persons may have seen Lake Ada from the foot, but those who have reached the head might be numbered upon the fingers of one hand, while even fewer than these had ever found themselves on the spot where we now were. But we had now reached our farthest point, and with a longing glance in the direction where Sutherland Falls and Mount Balloon lay, we took the back track. Still four or five "subjects" tempted us ashore, until we had to tear ourselves away, lest we should be benighted far from our camp. February 24th.— Another day such as gladdens a photographer's heart, and on our down ward journey we made even better work than yesterday. Some sweet views were found from an island— some very telling ones of the Giant's Gate, and so down to the foot of the lake. One cannot live upon photography alone, however, and a long and exciting day developed an appetite such as only a mountaineer or a bushman knows. The meal we sat down to was not to be despised. It consisted of a delicious stew of four teal, a weka, and a pigeon. Not amiss, this, for two persons. But, sharp as was the appetite and savoury as was the meal, it was with the utmost difficulty it was discussed. Oh, those sandflies! People complain that they are sometimes " bad " at the Bluff, when two or three settle on the face or hands. They are troublesome in the Sounds generally. They are irritating on Lake Manipori. But for thorough-going, temper-destroying, blasphemyproducing, temporary - insanity - engendering little demons, the sandflies about that swampy camping-ground at the foot of Lake Ada knock spots out of all creation. Swags were again packed. This time, however, there were only two backs to bear them instead of three. Like consideration as to weight for age again marked the apportionment of the* burdens. Evening was fast falling, and bush-tracking and boulder-climbing had to be done at a small paco. Malcolm with tho pack was duly on tho watch, and by-and-bye we were fighting our battles over again, over a billy of tea in 1 reshwater Basin. February 25th.— This was to be the last day with the camera, as the steamer might be expected in the afternoon, or next day at latest. The Arthur River was accordingly chosen as the scene of our last " shots," and the views noted three days before were duly secured. After half a day's work, we felt we had earned the "usual Saturday half -holiday, "so knocked off, and began, not to chop wood, but to pack up. I February 26th.— A steamer's signal started | the "inhabitants" out of their Inmks soon after daybreak, and quickly a gun from " Sutherland's battery " ooomed ft welcome to the Rotorua. Sutherland and Malcolm pulled off in their boat, speedily to return with the intelligence that Captain Tozer could only give the, photographer "five minutes!" This was

news indeed, as it had been understood that the day would be spent in Milford. A "round-robin" had been concocted, it would seem, requesting the captain to run through other of the Sounds, instead of making a stay at Milford. Remainder of packing was done in a rush, and in a very short time the photographer had bidden good-bye to his hosts and guides, and his trip to the mountains was virtually over. As " the man who had been a month at Milford," a transient popularity again awaited him ; but truth compels the admission that the attention of the lady portion of the passengers was devoted more to a certain case of flowering alpine plants ,(a. nice specimen of the Manunculus Lyellii among them) which formed a portion of his baggage. A timely suggestion by the chief officer that these floral treasures should be put into one of the boats relieved any embarrassment, which gallantry struggling with pardonable selfishness might have produced. In at Thompson Sound ; out at Doubtful. In at Breaksea, through Anchor Passage, and out at Dusky. Thus the Rotorua threaded her way ; weather delightful ; passengers in ecstasies; photographer alone moody and discontented. Lovely scenes were passing before his eyes, and not a "shot" could he take at them. February 27th.— The Bluff. Expended the last five plates in taking views ofthe town and shipping, and groups of the captain and officers of the Rotorua. February 28th.— Port Chalmers at daylight.