GOVERNMENT EXPEDITION TO MARTIN'S BAY.

Otago Witness, Issue 1101, 4 January 1873, Page 16

GOVERNMENT EXPEDITION TO MARTIN'S BAY.

As our readers have already been informed, a party, consisting of Mr Warden Beetham and Messrs J. W. Robertson, J. P., J. Richardson, J, M'Bride, junr., and H. Homer (guide), was recently despatched by the Government from Queenstown to Martin's Bay, with the view of inspecting the country over which the tracks via Lake Harris Pass and the Greenstone Valley will have to pass. The party left Queenstown on the 29 th ult., arriving at the Head of the Lake in the evening. They were detained there, by wet weather for two or three days, and then started on their journey by the Laku Harris or Ltouteburn track. They returned from Martin's Bay by the Greenstone Valley, and reached Lake AVakatip on the 17fch mat. The subjoiucd account of the trip is given by the special correspondent- of the Lake Wakatip Mail. We give this account not only because it is the most interesting one which has been furnished, but because we have been precluded by the action of the Provincial Government, or rather by that of His Honour the Superintendent, from publishing the offic-i il r.'porr, of the trip which was sent in by Mr Warden Beetham. THE START. We started from'Mr Scott's at half-past seven on the morning of the 2nd December, and made the Routeburn, which proved unfordable. Rained heavily until 5 p.m. Camped, and dog caught some woodhens. From this spot there is a view of a vast glacier on the opposite mountain, the water from it descending in two falls of more than f)00 feet each, perpendicularly. Tuesday, 3rd. — The weather cleaved, but river being still uufordable, about 11 a.m. Messrs Homer and M'Bride felled a tree across, over which the party safely passed. Reaching Powell's tent (existing in name only)' at 2 p.m., we dined, and afterwards commenced the ascent of the Saddle. From portions of the traik through the bush, magnificent views are obtainable of the neighbouring "glaciers and peaks. After leaving the track, we' crossed several pgat bogs, anfj

! reached the level of Lake Harris. From here the climb was fearfully steep, and by the time the summit was reached (7 p.m.) all bands were thoroughly tired and chilled ; the sleet was falling fast, a cold wind blowiug, and the ground covered with snow. Kefreshed by a "nip" of brandy, we descended to the forest boundary, reaching the bush about a quarter past eight. During the descent, one of the party came to grief, rolling down a slope at the rate of knots. A hole in the ground brought him up, and fortunately with no worse hurt than a gashed nose. Camped on damp moss : very uncomfortable.

Wednesday, 4th. — Commenced to descend the bush at 7.30 a.m., the descent being very steep. Reached the bottom at 11, and the Hollyford at noon. Dried all wet things ; had dinner ; left a cache ; and reached the ford at 7 p.m. Capital camp ; supper, burgoo.

Thursday, sth. — Crossed Hollyford about 5 a.m., the water reaching up to our breasts. Nearly all the swags got wet, so we camped on an open beach for two and a half hours, and dried what we could. Descended Hollyford through fine bush country, with here and there an open glade, and camped at 7 p.m. The sandfiies proved very troublesome.

Friday, 6th. — Started at 5.30 a.m. Reached Lake M'Kerrow at about 6 in the evening. Lighted signal fires, and at 11 a boat arrived, which conveyed us down the Lake (8 miles) to Jamestown, which was reached about 2 a.m. on Saturday. Had a good feed and tu-rned in, only to be roused, by the sandfiies about 6 a.m., it being quite impossible to patiently bear their combined efforts at phlebotomy.

martin's bay.

We remained at Martin's Bay until Thursday, December 12th, the time being ocupied in visiting the Heads, sea-fishing, " blessing" the sandfiies and mosquitos, and admiring the lovely scenery of the Lake. It rained almost incessantly on the previous Sunday, Monday, and Tuesday. Most of the men were away at Big Bay digging, but the settlers left in the township did their best to make our stay pleasant. The Government might have exercised a little more forethought when sending supplies to the settlement, as the Wallace, which called in the latter end of October, took neither powder and shot, butter, bacon, nor cheese ; so the people have nothing but flour, tea, and sugar, and are, of course, unable to procure birds. To- catch the fish, they have to pull six miles down to the sea, and the same distance back ; and frequently a man will have to go three or four days consecutively to provide the week's supply. Under these adverse circumstances, one can scarcely wonder that more clearing has not been done. Messrs Porter, M'Leod, Webb, Robertson, and Nicholson, have each a considerable tract under cultivation, and there will be no scarcity of potatoes during the coming autumn and winter. Some of the settlers have very nice gardens, and nearly all possess comfortable huts or houses. During the -late famine they were destitute of flour, tea and sugar, salt, and, in fact, of every necessary of every-day life. Birds were not obtainable, and fish scarce. The "pikipiki" and "tnamuku," two descriptions of edible fern, which were then much sought after, do not look very inviting. At Mr Robertson's we saw a dish of pikipiki ready for cooking. Raw, it has scarcely any taste at all. I am not in a position, from experience, to give an opinion of it when cooked, The bar at the mouth of the river is easily passed ; and, were two rocks, at present in the tide- way, removed, vessels could proceed up the river in any weather. Boats have ascended the Hollyford for 22 miles— as far as Pyke's Creek. The sandflies and mosquitoes are a perfect pest, especially in cloudy weather. Civilised sandfiies will generally respect one who is working, but these have no compassion — working, sleeping, eating, or drinking, it is all the same to them. As soon as the sandfiies retire at dark, the mosquitoes advance upon their victims.

I believe I am pretty correct in stating that Jamestown is the only Government township in New Zealand, where grog is not to be had for love or money.

The settlers express themselves as being well pleased with the place, and would be quite contented were communication opened with Queenstown, or arrangements made for a steamer calling at regular intervals.

Advocates of women's rights might learn a lesson by visiting the Bay. The daughters of the settlers may be seen fishing 1 , shooting, and pulling their boats or canoes ; and although they are adepts at each and all of these accomplishments, the sight of girls with arms bared, seated at their oars, is scarcely one to give pleasure to the beholder.

THE RETURN JOURNEY. Thursday, 12th.— Rose at *5 a.m. After breakfast, pulled to head of Lake M'Kerrow, and got wet through by the rain. Started again at 11, and soon got wet feet, crossing the glacier creeks. Camped at 6 p.m. Tried for eels, but, though plenty were visible, they wouldn't bite.

Friday, 13th. — Started at a quarter to eight. Had some magnificent views of several glaciers ; some of great extent. Creeks all very high. Camped at 8 p.m. ; cold night.

Saturday, 14th. — "Followed up west side of Hollyford, and crossed at upper ford, where ihe water was above the waist. Reached our cache at 3 p.m. Had a feed of " doughboys," ably manufactured by Mr M'Bride, and btarted on route v'id Greenstone, making some four miles by dark, when we camped. Opposite the camp, we saw one of the la.rgest glaciers in the valley, the lower end being probably not naore than 1000 feet above the river. Sunday, lstU.*"Stwteda*7;3o, follow^

blaze line to Pass Creak ; had dinner ; and crossed. The blaze line here ascended a hill of some 3000 feet in height (for what purpose it is hard to say), the level of Lake Howden being reached in two and a-half hours after commencing the ascent. However, from the summit, there was a splendid panorama of the Hollyford Valley and the surrounding peaks. Descended to Lake Howden (about 1400 feet below), and fr*om there kept the open country to Lake M'Kellar, where we camped at 7.30 ; very cold, damp night.

Monday, 16th. — Started at 7.15, round Lake M'Kellar, on leaving which we entered the Upper Greenstone Valley, which is wellgrassed, and surrounded by mountains whose sides are covered for a considerable height with forest. Entered Greenstone Gorge (bush) about three o'clock, and reached the ford about 6.30 : camped. Tuesday, 17th. — Started again at 5.45. The bush very open and easy to travel, except where we were obliged to rise to escape bluffs. When opposite Eere Lake, I left the others, and, crossing the Greenstone, took the blaze line past the lake down" to Sandfly Bay (Grieves's), which was reached about 9.30. The rest of the party made their way round the base of Mount Humboldt to the Caples Valley, reaching M 'Bride's farm, Lake Wakatip, about 11.30, your "special" having arrived there thirty minutes previously. Mr A. M'Bride prepared a sumptuous repast, to which all hands did justice ; in fact, a lookeron would doubtless have concluded that they had not had a meal for a month. The party then pulled down to Queenstown in the farm boat.

It will thus be seen that our return trip occupied just about the same time as the out-ward-bound one.

CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY, ETC.

The valley of the Hollyford varies in breadth from one to three miles. The scenery is extremely picturesque. A lovely forest clothes the mountain sides ; above this again the peaks rise majestically, the tops being capped with perpetual snow and the hollows filled with vast fields of ice. The deposits in the valley are, in some cases, a light loam ; in others, the deep rich black earth of the New Zealand bush, capable of growing anything. The bush is principally composed of red, black, and white pines, and birch, totara, mero, ironwood, and broadleaf — all of very luxuriant growth. There is another extensive valley towards Lake Alabaster (" Wa-wai-hi-wuk," of the Maoris). Up the Hokuri river, towards Big Bay, there is also a large flat of rich, heavily timbered land. As to the land in the immediate vicinity of Jamestown, and thence down the river to the sea, I cannot do better than quote the report given, more than nine years ago, by Dr Hector, who says : — "The land is considerably elevated above the highest floods, excepting in a few places, where there are swampy recesses extending back into the woods. The banks consist of stratified gravel and sand, with a stratum of clay, the whole being covered with a thick deposit of loam. There are, at least, 4000 acres of alluvial land bordering the river and the lower part of the lake." Birds appeared to be very plentiful in the neighbourhood, comprising paradise, blue, and teal ducks, pigeons, kakas, tuis, &c. We also procured a specimen of a rara avis called a saddle back — a bird about the size and shape of a tui, the back being a light brown, the rest of the body jet black, and two small wattles hanging on each side of the beak, similar to those seen in the New Zealand crow. At the Heads, fish of all descriptions are procurable. The settlers generally, however, fish off the rocks, in preference to going beyond the bar, and here they catch kelp-tish (a species of trumpeter), sea salmon, "maori chiefs," crayfish, &c. , &c. We were down fishing three days whilst at Jamestown. The last day four of us caught 10 dozen, the fish varying in weight from ilb. to Gibs., the larger ones being salmon and "maori chiefs" — the latter an ugly bullet-headed fish. Near the mouth of the river we saw flounders and large shoals of mullet. Seals, on which the settlers depend for supplies of fat and oil, are occasionally caught on the rocks further towards Big Bay. Gold has been found in several places down the river and round the beach towards Milford Sound ; but not, as yet, in payable quantities excepting in Big Bay, where the specimens found are of a coarse, rough description, from which it may be inferred that there are heavy deposits somewhere in the neighbouring ranges. The density of the scrub and bush, however, prevents any systematic prospecting. Dr Hector says :—: — " The indications are much more favourable for the occurrence of valuable mineral lodes than in any of the country more to the eastward." | THE TRACK. So much has been written about the Lake Harris route that it is scarcely necessary here to say more than that, in the opinion of the majority of those who have travelled, all the money in the Colony would not make it j passable for a horse. Before reaching Lake Harris, large peat bogs— morasses — have to be crossed ; the ascent from thence is nearly perpendicular, and the passing round the Lake would present innumerable engineering difficulties. On the other side, the descent is also fearfully steep ; in fact, till reaching the Hollyford valley, the track is nothing but a series of steps. Prom where the two routes meet, the present track follows every bend of the river down to Lake Kakapo. By cutting a track, as advised by Dr Hector, under the foot of the mountains, ' the distance would be* reduced more than on 6 half, and no serious difficulties encountered, as the line would pass the whole way througji timbered flat land, with very little UJjderarowth. The WgU?g o{ $0 Burners

glacier creeks would be inexpensive, as timber is on the spot. The homeward track via Greenstone, from junction ot the two routes, might be carried along the eastern side of the Hollyford as advised by Dr Hector, until reaching Pass Creek, where the Doctor's track should be exchanged for Howden's, which follows up the east side of Pass Creek (whilst we followed the Doctor's, which ascends a mountain opposite, as does also the blaze line made by Wright and party). After leaving Lake Howden, we decended gently to Lake M'Kellar ; and thence continued descending, almost imperceptibly, until reaching the Greenstone Gorge, about 15 miles. On entering the Gorge, we followed the blaze line up some tiresome pinches, and, in most cases, had to descend again. In some instances a rise was necessary to escape bluffs, but in others there appeared no reason for the detour. Prom the ford we left the blazed track, and kept the north instead of the south side of the river until we reached its junction with the Caples' branch. Here the way was along a steep sidling, broken by slips. 1 have since been told by parties who have explored the opposite bank, that on the south side (where the blaze line is continued) a very little trouble would make a horse track. The whole length of the gorge to opposite Rere Lake (from which point there is a horse track) cannot exceed six miles.

I would here remark that, from the haste with which the return journey was performed, and the fact that the leaders of the party, were thoroughly fatigued before entering the gorge, no examination as to the best line for a track along the worst part of the route, could be made. Were the Government to despatch two or three men accustomed to bush work, with instructions to ascertain the easiest route along this part of the Greenstone River, and give them plenty of time — say a week or a fortnight — to make a thorough examination, I am confident a good road would be found.