A NEW CHUM'S IDEA OF DUNEDIN. (From the Lyttenton Times.)

Otago Witness, Issue 529, 18 January 1862, Page 7

A NEW CHUM'S IDEA OF DUNEDIN. (From the Lyttenton Times.)

Dunedin, December 16, 18GI.

My Di;ar , You asked me when I left Christchurch fur this town to write you a short account of my trip and my impressions of Dunedin. I endeavour to comply with your request, and hope my sketch will serve to amuse you. You must be but too well aware of the miserable and comfortless feeling one experiences while taking a short trip in a mail steamer ; no one has time to settle down in their places, nine-tenths of your fellow-passengers are ill, and if you are spared such an infliction, tbe sight of the suffering voyagers is distressing, to say the least of it. I will therefore spare- you any further particular.-.. I arrived at Port Chalmers on Wednesday, the 4th day of December, and was struck with astonishment at the large quantity of shipping of every class I saw on all sides, from Dutch galliots to Black Ball Liners of 2000 tons, each had their representative. The steamer " Lord Ashlev " went alongside the jetty, a structure considerably inferior in size to that at Lyttelton, and made in a slight manner of manukau posts, &c, but answering every purpose for which a wharf is required at this port, there being no warehouses, and cargo being either discharged into hulks, of which there are two in the harbour, or conveyed direct to Dunedin by means of steam lighters and small craft.

Port Chalmers is prettily situated on a spur of the hills, but contains few houses of any importance. There are two hotels of no very superior order, but comfortable— ono of which is kept by Mr. Wm. Packard, late of Canterbury, who is also Inspector of Sheep ; a harbour master's dwelling and signal station, a druggist's shop and postoffice combined, and a few small stores. Several tents for the supply of hot coffee to visitors were erected along the principal street ; one larger than the others claimed the euphonious title of the '• Port Chalmers Restaurant."

I had forgotten to mention that when steaming up the harbour we passed the Black Bali liner Ocean Chief, returning io Melbourne with abo.it 90 diggers, who greeted our crowded decks with loud cries of " Joe," and advised us to return, as the diggings were nearly exhausted. The cry of " Joe " is purely a diggers' word, and is invariably used on the diggings as a greeting to new chums. It was first used on the Australian diggings to denote the presence of policemen to unlicensed diggers, but has since been adopted as a gcneril expression of derision at the appearance of any one in aught but diggers' costume.

The following day we embarked on board a little steamtr capable of carrying wwcomfortably about 60 passengers, and our trip to Dunedin occupied about an hour and a half, the town being distant from Port Chalmers about nine miles. There is a constant communication by water between Dunedin and Port Chalmers by all sorts of vessels and two steamers, similar to the one I went up in, leave Port Chalmers, the first at 9.30 a.m., and the second a.t 3 p.m , making a trip both ways daily.

The appearance of this fine harbour was great ly enhanced by a beautiful, calm, sunny morning, with just sufficient breeze to render the passage enjoyable. The winding channel, the bold rocky scrub-covered hills, with spurs running far into the sea, forming most picturesque little bays ; the rocky based islands, with their broken faces, standing out in hold relief against the dark green flax and scrub ; the white sails of the numerous vessels going up and down the stream, while here and there the waters were ploughed by some gaily painted steamer, leaving a broad track of foam in its wake ; in all presented a most lively and interesting scene, which ill prepared one for the noise, dirt, and confusion of tongues of the much-talked of Town of Dunedin.

Dunedin, viewed from this part of the harbour, presents a scene unrivalled in the Middle Island for variety of beauty. On the left the eye glances on the broad rolling waves of the South Pacific, which by a freak of nature are only separated from the waters of the harbour at this end by a row of sand hills. Could these by any means be cut through, so as to admit large ships and steamers from Australia passing through the harbour from the westward, the benefit would be incalculable. But many difficulties present themselves, and foremost the shallowness of the water opposite the town. I have no doubt a great many others could be suggested by scientific men. Carrying the eye to the right, you have a capital view of the (at present) business portion of the town, and the long jetty : the principal buildings that attract attention being the police barracks end immigration depot, several merchants' stores, the Provincial and Commercial hotels, and the large stables attached to the former, both the property of Messrs, Jones, Bird & Co, Still fur-

ther to the right, above the Commercial Hotel you see the long roof of the Arcade, now in course of construction, which will, when finished, contain about fifty shops, all under one roof, built 1o resemble the Arcades of London. These shops, I may mention, are buim> let at high rentals, as fast a-i completed. The handsome stone buildings of Messrs. Young & M'Glashau excite the admiration of all visitors ; so striking an improvement i.i colonial architecture deserves e\ery praise. The Union Bank of Australia occupies commodious premises, with considerable architectural merit. Sovornl otner buildings are worthy of note, but 1 have forgotten their distinguishing feat ures.

The Government buildings are by no means worth attention as far as those in the occupation of the Executive Government and the Land ( iflieo are concerned ; but the offices of the Supreme Court (also used for Resident Magistrate's Court.) and the Provincial Council Chamber are handsome and commodious, the various offices being convenient and easy of access to visiter.*. The principal room in which the Council meets, though not so pretentious in style as the Canterbury chamber, is far more convenient both for members and the public. With two in the North-east Valley, our notice of buildings must close. Knox church is a large and handsome building, surrounded by a cupola, which gives it a very pleasing appearance. It possesses accommodation for 1000 persons, and has been constructed with a proper regard to accoustic principles. The Albion Hotel for external appearance and internal comfort is superior to any in Canterbury. The gradually rising hills at the back of the town are studded with private residences prettily embowered in the native trees and scrub which cover them, some of which boast of well-cultivated gardens and plantations.

On landing at the jetty, which the boat could scarcely reach, the tide being nearly out, I met with a scene of bustle and confusion such as I have not witnessed since leaving England. Digger.s in every variety of costume might be seen : here the flash man with the scarlet shirt, white moleskin trousers, cut very wide over the foot, cabbage-tree hats with long- black ribbons, with a crimson netted silk scarf round his wai-t, and a fringe tassel dangling on each side ; and there, an emaciated digger with garments of no particular colour, and a tout ensemble that left an illdefined idea of dirt generally, and a sort of creeping sensation at his close proximity. Smart young clerks, custom-house officers, soldiers of the 70th in their bright scarlet tunics, policemen iii their really business-like and neat uniform, sailors, and wharfingers, composed the hurried bustling throng which hastened to the end or" the jetty to see the new arrivals.

While I think of it, the uniform of the police force deserves notice. It consists of a loose blue cloth tunic, very short, without a belt, except when armed, white metal buttons, blue cloth trousers, and black leather hats, with a straight peak in front, and a half peak at the back ; the collars of the coats are small and turned up, and the edge of the white shirt collar shown above them give an officer-of-rolunteer appearance to the men. As a whole, their physique is not to be surpassed. The escort uniform differs only in the nether clothing, breeches and boots being substituted for trousers.

While landing we had the pleasure of seeing tho escort arrive with 14,000 or 15,000 ounces of gold, one week's yield of the diggings, exclusive of the quantity retained by private purchasers and diggers.

The jetty is provided with tramways and trucks, which much facilitate the discharge of yes-els, which is, I think, less dangerous than urn,' carts as at Lyttelton ; a separate pathway for toot passengers from the jetty to the street is needed, the carts collecting at the entrance in such numbers as to impede the foot traffic.

By fie advice of a friend I took up my quarters at the Provincial Hotel, and, though quite different from the quiet of Canterbury houses, I had no reason to complain. The landlords do everything in iheir power to further the comfort of their guests, but small miseries are inevitable with so much business. As a specimen of the business doing in the principal hotel in Dunedin, I may mention that sixty was the average number of guests at meals. " Six bars for the supply of liquors were also continually at work until the hour of closing.

During my stay in Dunedin I had frequent opportunities of observing the business transacted. Cash was the only medium except in very large sales. New firms are commencing business — new shops and warehouses are rapidly building. Auction sales are held every day in the week in various parts of the town, and the bustle and activity on all sides clearly denote that Dunedin is a prosperous and rising town. The prices asked for business premises, either as rental, or as con .ideration for the lease or freehold, are excessive, far beyond your wildest conceptions in Canterburj".

Among other novelties in the town is the newspap -r man, who cries through the streets — • Morning paper,' < Otago Daily Times,' ' Melbourne Argus,' 'Sydney Morning Herald,' 'Failure of the Lachlan Diggings !' ' Another rush from Melbourne !' Their charges for Melbourne papers are -.ometimas very high, and never less than 2s. eac!;. I think the price asked depends in a great mei'sure upon the appearance of the purchaser — those with a " new-chummy " looking paying through the nose.

There is a very fine building stone here in considerable quantities, and it appears to require but little labour in working. I was informed that it is cut and squared readily with the cross-cut saw.

The shortness of my stay in Dunedin prevented a much desired trip to the diggings ; from what I learn they have no originality, and correspond with the description given of tolerably well-con-ducted field in Australia. I hear some friends of ours from Canterbury are doing well, but most of those who are making " pots" are using their hea Is £more than their hands. Stores, canvas hotels, &c, are the happy mediums of wealth and the true diggings' philosopher's stone.

The Protestant church is small and does not contain the necessary number of .seats to accommodate the great influx of members of the Church of England into this at one time Scotch community. The building is very plain, and not very convenient in its arrangements, but is, I believe, only temporary.

Dunedin is far behind Christchurch in the possession of healthy amusements — cricket is but ran-ly seen, concerts are occasionally dreamt of, and with the exception of a state ball, which is held once and sometimes twice a year, public dancing is unknown.

On the whole, however, I am very pleased with my visit, and recommend you to come down if you can spare a month, the journey will amuse, and the go-aheadedness, to use a curious expression of the Otago people, will interest you. Believe me, &c,

C. M. O.