Latest Hat Styles From Paris Feature Straws in Gay Colours

Otago Daily Times, Issue 27082, 17 May 1949, Page 2

Latest Hat Styles From Paris Feature Straws in Gay Colours

NOTES FOR WOMEN

Fasljjonable women—and fashion experts—declare that they can tell a French hat the minute they see sone, says a Paris woman writer. There is an indefinable something about the workmanship, the finish—and, of course, about the design. French milliners turn out hundreds of models a year, which are copied everywhere—but never with the flair of the original.

The technique of hat-making has varied little since the beginning of the century. It is not merely a matter of taste, a felt hood, pins and a hot iron. First of all, the plaster form on which subsequent models are stretched, has to be made. Well-known milliners often spend days on a plaster form to get just the right angle, the exact curve or dip. And then it may be one of the successes of the season. Incidentally, a success of the season—one of those stunning models which turn up all over the place—is always small, never big. No one quite knows why. It is something unexplainable in hat psychology.

Frenchwomen adore hats. They tell you, the article continues, that a new one is more important than a new frock, and some of them have as many as fifty hats in their wardrobe. For hats may be as temperamental as their their wearer, and the sensible thing is to have a wide choice. In 1949 brightly coloured hats are all the rage—emerald, red and gay blue. But there are few pastels, baby blues, pale pinks and lilac. White hats are a star turn—tying up' with piqu6 trims which strike a dapper spring note. Hats made in two tones —and two fabrics—are smartest and' need no trimming. The straw shortage is now over, and the newest variety—called sjzol— is as soft and pliable as fabric. The range runs from smooth, shiny types like Bali, Bangkok and Panama, to coarse rush; often fringed round the edge. Natural cane is chosen for large —and small—sailors, and for fancy trimming on outsize felts. Coarse fancy straws resemble nothing so much as a bird’s nest! Lacy straws give the impression of tiny goffering frills. Crinoline is used for enormous capelines, becomingly fluted, folded and pleated round the head—many designed for the evening. Factor of Comfort Hats, this year, sit comfortably on the head, with large crowns. No spring- breeze can dislodge them. Brims are small for informal wear, generally tilted. Pull-on shapes drape across the front, framing the face in a flattering line. Ninety-nine per cent, reveal the forehead—and this is what most women like, for it makes them look younger. Trimmings are few and far between. The beautiful flowers that were once such a feature of French spring millinery have become so expensive

that few milliners dare employ them. Ribbon has returned strongly to favour. Multi-coloured knots of.satin bahy ribbon are placed on the crown with streamers fluttering over the brim, and bands of taffetas ribbon are wound round the crown, upstanding in cockades at the side. Afternoon toques are made entirely of ribbon, knotted in floppy bows at the side. Spotted or tartan ribbon is chic on plain hats. Mousseline scarves hold back a brim, swathe round a crown, knotting at the Fabric hats are a pretty fancy. You can have one in linen to match your frock, in cotton —this is the latest novelty—in chiffon (for the afternoon) or in organdie for the evening. Some of the smoke-coloured organdie mushroom shapes are very lovely. Tulle is also used in many thicknesses, and some of the most attractive is tartanprinted. Colour Contrasts Fabric hats are one colour on top, lined with another —for in this field the craze for colour contrasts ‘comes to full flowering. Even smarter is a detachable (contrasting) brim which may be rolled and carried in" the pocket without damage, for the crowns are ‘ tailored ’ as well as the brim, and the wearer only has to adjust them to suit her mood. Much less veiling is worn this year, but some of it is initialled. Hatpins are important and are used in pairs—bubble pearls and cut crystal. The average price for a French hat this season is 13.000 francs (about twelve pounds). It rtiay drop as low as 10,000, or rise to thirty, depending on the design and material. Frenchwomen consider this exorbitant. But foreigners, arriving in Paris with a favourable exchange rate, find it reasonable compared with what they pay at home.