ORIENTAL WONDERLAND

Otago Daily Times, Issue 26246, 2 September 1946, Page 4

ORIENTAL WONDERLAND

SHRINE OF GREAT DICTATOR LEAVE CENTRE AT NIKKO (For the Daily Times, by John Spedding.) A cable mesage published last week stated that one of the large hotels at Nikko had been taken over as a leave centre for men of the Commonwealth ' Occupation Force in Japan. Nikko was visited by the writer about four months ago. The Japanese have a saying: “Don’t say kekko (exquisite) until you have seen Nikko.” It was not without reason that this axiom was coined. By many, Nikko is considered the most noteworthy sight of all Japan, if not actually one of the modern wonders of the world. Rivers, cascades, waterfalls, lakes and groves of age-oid trees make this mountain retreat a magnificent resort and a beauty spot in any language. Often claimed as one of the finest examples of the handiwork of man is the magnificent mausoleum erected over the tomb of leyasu, founder of the Tokugawa Shogunate which governed Japan for 260 years, which makes Nikko a show-place among show-places. The combination of natural beauty and ancient architectural splendour results in an unrivalled Oriental wonderland. No limit seems to have been set upon the expenditure for the construction of the mausoleum, all the fine artistic talent of the country .having been requisitioned. The most expert craftsmen were summoned from throughout Japan and were organised into bands which competed with each ■ other in turning out the finest work. The magnificence of the decorations is largely due to the immense amount of gold-leaf used in gilding. Altogether, it is said, 2,489,900 sheets were used—sufficient to cover six acres. Fifteen thousand men were kept working during the 12 years •it took to erect the various structures, from, shrines and bridges to stables and cisterns. The” Simian Trinity The original of the Simian trinity showing one monkey covering his ears, another his mouth, and a third his eyes, is carved in a panel of the sacred stable. Popularly referred to as “Hear no evil, speak no evil, see no evil,” replicas of the carvings have gone all over the world. A red lacquered bridge and the Yomei-man, or Gate of Sunlight, have been photographed by tourists from the four corners of the earth. The vast outlay of materials and labour which went into building the , mausoleum was to honour the craftiest Japanese who ever lived. His . name was leyasu'Tokugawa, and he was the founder qf a family which, as noted earlier, governed Japan for 260 years—a singular fact when it is realised that the country was, throughout the entire period, ruled by the' Imperial family. In 1940, to commemorate the 224th anniversary of leyasu’s death, a grand festival, with all the pomp and ceremony of ancient times, was held at • Nikko. An Imperial messenger in the classical dress crossed the sacred lacquer bridge conveying gifts from the Emperor to the shrine. The deities enshrined in the mausoleum were transferred into three sacred palanquins and conveyed to the Hutara-san shrine; where all-night services wehe held. A Crafty Character

Japanese historians generally credit leyasu with the virtues of humanity, magnanimity, justice, and affability. He was always pleased to receive advice from others and set an example of courtesy and zeal. On the other hand, his record shows that he was unscrupulous in utilising opportunities whether created by himself or made accessible by fortune. , Craftiness was one of his main attributes, and among the'’characteristics which could more truthfully be asscribed to him were hypocrisy, greed ail that historians agree that he was v“? a , b ’ e governor and a great man. No dictator in ancient or modern times took greater precautions to safeguard an le yasu. He even married jT.seven-year-oid granddaughter to an 11-year-old, boy for fear the enemv m ThP fn° W up in * t 6 a Powerful T ? e aUlance , between the two families also gave him a chance ■to spy into the affairs of the’other familv TDkS™ L an impregnable castle in % th ® Imperial. Palace—and one b bm th« Slde ’ construc ted not He Vr„cli hree deep moats around it. am t il US j e< ? npone and took no chances All feudal chieftains were constrained to spend alternate years in Tokio as hostages. In the years when they returned to their feudatories, to lefive their eldest sons in the dicrwt , Clty J- This proved so potent a check to disaffection that from 1615 when leyasu became supreme military pnt!rp? r ’ f Untl l Japan remained entirely free from civil war Humble Scholar

• j 1 u i}, der literature flourished The Tokugawa chieftain admired and respected Fujiwara Seigwa one of Japan’s most noted scholars By leyasu’s invitation, Seigwa lectured on the classics, and it is recorded that once when leyasu attended one of the lectures wearing his ordinary garments, Seigwa fixed his eyes on the great dictator and addressed him: “ I am lecturing on ethics to one who behaves in a disorderly and discourteous manner. I believe that I preach in vain." leyasu immediately changed his costume, and the incident contributed alike to the reputation of the intrepid teacher anti theumagnanimous scholar. Like the Chinese sage Confucius. leyash was fond of philosophical tenets, some of which have been handed down. leyasu said: Man who wants to get ahead should never be in hurry. Man who regards anger as enemy will have no enemy to get angry about.

He who only knows how to win will lose what he wins.

Man who falls short goes further than man who exceeds.

In 1616 leyasu fell ill and died. He firmly believed that to achieve success, the first desideratum was to avoid mistakes. He brought an almost infinite capacity for patient study and minute examination to everything he did and his period of power was .firm but just. The men of the Commonwealth force who visit their new leave centre at Nikko may not be interested into delving into the fading glories of Nikko's history and tradition, but in summer and in winter, when there are fine ski trails to be followed, they will have a leave place which could noi be paralleled in Japan, if in the whole world