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Otago Daily Times, Issue 25213, 30 April 1943, Page 4

ANSWER TO CORRESPONDENT “ Daffodil," Oamaru.—Your daffodil bulbs are attacked by the grub of the daffodil fly, which eats the inside of the bulbs and then assumes its chrysalis stage. To prevent these attacks, the flies may be caught with a butterfly net in November and December, or, when the bulbs are lifted. If there is any suspicion that they are affected, each must be pinched at the top. If it is soft, very likely a grub is inside, and the bulb can then be cut open and the grub destroyed. By careful cutting it is often possible to save a valuable bulb. The fly is like a small, dark-coloured bee, with a single pair of wings, and is usually marked with brown and yellow, but sometimes with red. THE GREENHOUSE AND NURSERY Chrysanthemums, whether growing in the soil or in tins or pots, should be showing colour, and should be placed under cover of some kind to protect them from wet and frost, which is likely to follow. They can stand the frost, provided the flowers or buds are kept dry. Gladioli, when ripened, can have the foliage cut off at three inches from the Corm, and then be spread out in shallow boxes and placed in a dry, airy shed. If lifted, dahlias should have the labels tied on securely, and the tubers can then be plunged in soil or sand in the open, or behind a wall’or fence. They keep better in the open than in boxes of dry soil inside. Greenhouse calceolarias and cinerarias are very liable to attacks of green fly. Examine the plants regularly and fumigate with X.L. All or dip in a mixture of warm soap water and a little nicotine. The various annuals which are required to provide a display in spring should be grown in frames in as cool conditions as possible to secure stout, sturdy dwarf growth. Bulbs of various kinds which were potted up some time ago, and have now started into growth, can be placed in a cold from or on a shelf in the greenhouse near the glass. Continue to put in cuttings of roses, fruit bushes, such as gooseberries and currants, and the various kinds of ornamental trees ahd hedge plants which are propagated in this way. Prick out seedlings of polyanthus primroses, anemones, and ranunculus into boxes or specially prepared beds where they can be protected in some way during frosty weather.

THE FLOWER GARDEN Clear out plants which are past their oest and plant anemones, ranunculus, polyanthus primroses, wallflowers, tulips, hyacinths. Sweet Williams, and all kinds of hardy herbaceous perennials. Plant roses and ornamental trees and shrubs. THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Clear ground on which there are spent crops, and sow broad beans, lettuce, and prickly spinach. Plant cabbage and silver beet, and cultivate among all growing crops, drawing the soil up round broccoli, savoys, and cabbage. Earth up celery and leeks and sow blue lupine or mustard on all vacant ground. FRUIT TREES AND BUSHES

, Autumn is the best season for planting fruit trees and bushes, and, in fact, all trees and shrubs. The soil is usually in good working condition, and is still sufficiently warm to encourage the activity of the roots, enabling any that are broken or damaged to heal and to form new root hairs to take the place of those which were destroyed during the shifting. It is necessary that the wood of all deciduous kinds should be ripened, but it is not necessary to wait until the leaves actually drop off. Some pruning or cutting back should be done to bring the demand for moisture into harmony with the supplies obtained through the damaged roots, and if the final pruning cannot be done the young growths should be shortened back half their length. It is better to double dig or bastard trench the ground than to plant in holes in the solid, however big they may be, but it is not necessary to go very deep provided the drainage is all right. The roots should be encouraged To occupy the top layer of soil, where they can get fresh air, warmth, and supplies of plant food during the growing season and be discouraged from going down into the cold, damp subsoil, which usually results in a strong growth of wood instead of the formation of fruit spurs or fruit buds. The distances between the trees will depend on the type of pruning to be adopted, but for small gardens (when the bush form is the best) 9 to 12 feet should be allowed between apples, pears, plums, and cherries. This would not be enough for orchards where mechanical cultivation ahd spraying has to be carried out. For espalier trained trees nine feet would be suitable, and for single cordons three to four feet.

Gooseberries and currants should be from five to six feet apart in the rows, and also raspberries when trained on standards or hoops, but when planted to grow on a fence or wires three feet is enough between each plant. Loganberries, boysonberries, and similar fruits should have plenty of room, for it is necessary to tie in young growth 'while the fruit is still ripening, and nine feet apart on a seven or eight-feet high trellis or fence should be suitable. Raspberries, loganberries, and boysonberries- should be cut back" to six inches from the ground when planted to encourage strong young growth, on which the fruit will be borne the second year after planting. The method of planting in all cases Is similar, but the size of the holes will vary according to the root development. They should be large enough to allow the roots to go in easily without any bending or twisting, the sides should be vertical, and the bottoms broken up with pick or crowbar. First throw in any rough material such as turf or weeds and chop it up, and then put ip some of the top soil and form a mound in the centre, tramping it reasonably firm. If not firmed it will sink later and drag down the tree or bush with it, burying it deeper than is desirable. The plants should be placed on top of the mound so that the soil mark on the stem, which indicates the depth to which it was growing in the nursery, is level with the surface of the soil. Before planting, trim any broken or bruised roots with secateurs or a sharp knife. This assists healing up. Place the plants in position with the roots spread evenly all round: throw in some of the fine surface top soil and shake it to work the soil in among the fine fibrous roots, and then throw in more fine soil and tramp firmly round the inside of the hole. Press in the soil against the roots, but do not tramp directly on top of them, especially round the stem. Continue to throw in the soil and to firm it until the hole is filled up a little above the surrounding ground to allow for sinking, and leave the surface reasonably rough for the winter. If the soil is very dry, it is better to give a good watering before the hole is filled in completely, and to finish off after the water has soaked away. Should a stake be necessary when planting trees, this should be placed in position before they are planted, and they should be tied firmly to it with soft three-ply rope or twine. In most cases it is not desirable to add farmyard manure when planting, though compost heap or leafmould will not do any harm. Manure can be applied as a mulch on top should the soil be light and poor. If the soil is poor it is better to mix a handful or two of bone dust when planting.