SOME ASSOCIATES FOR BULBS

Otago Daily Times, Issue 23707, 14 January 1939, Page 21

SOME ASSOCIATES FOR BULBS

RAISING STOCK FOR NEXT SEASON At first thought it may appear to be unseasonable to direct attention in January to the subject of spring gardening. The bulbs which play so prominent a part in most planting schemes for spring display are only now fully ripened, and nobody, except specialists, who grow choice daffodils for show, would think of planting bulbs this month. Our present concern is for the plants of biennial, perennial, and, in some cases, annual character, which make admirable associates for tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, and various other bulbs The success , planting arrangement depends in no small measure upon the vigour and quality of these plants, and whether or not they are satisfactory depends upon the treatment meted out to them during their early stages of growth. In the garden scene the everpopular wallflower is used with striking effect in combination with Golden Trumpet daffodils. The wallflower is so good-natured a plant that it will manage to put up some-

thing of a show, even if it is treated in what may almost be called a brutal manner. To that fact, we assume, must be attributed the reason why a vast proportion of the wallflowers seen in g.ardens are subjected to -ather rough usage. Sometimes we wonder why so many people are content with just half the show they might have, and can only conclude that it is because they have never realised what the difference would be if the plants were given reasonably good culture. DO NOT SPOIL WALLFLOWER SEEDLINGS We do not mean by this that wallflowers should be grown in heavilymanured soil, or fed with lots of highly-concentrated fertilisers. Gross feeding produces coarse, flabby growth which is not at all conducive to profuse flower production. What is so often wrong with wallflowers is that, in their early stages, they are allowed to become crowded in the seed bed, thereby being compelled to make lanky, spindle stems before they are transferred to the nursery bed. where they may have a chance to develop bushy, shortlointed growth. As though that disadvantage were not enough, the plants are often finally transferred to their flowering quarters when they are almost, if not actually, showing flower buds. In cases where the plants are purchased at shops, it is more than likely they have been almost a week out of the ground, exposed at the shop front for a day or two to all the draughts and winds, and the petrol fumes from motor traffic. Small wonder that a lot of the wallflowers seen are less than half as imposing and beautiful as they might be. SOW NOW Probably many readers have already sown their seeds of wallflowers before this date; if not, there is still time to sow. We are never eager to get our plants yery large before winter. The more important! point is to get seedlings pricked out at quite an early age, so that they commence issuing soft root fibre before they have formed a hard, wiry tap root. They need only about four small leaves when this task is performed, and although tiny at the time, they should be spaced out at not less than six inches apart in rows about nine inches asunder. A few days after pricking out, but when the soil is not wet. it is a good plan to tread between the rows, and then rake out all footmarks. Firm soil makes for sturdier, short-jointed growths than a loose rooting medium will do. v April is really a good month for planting bulbs of daffodils, tulips, ot hyacinths, and at the same time the wallflowers should be interplanted, lifting them carefully with a fork, and replanting with a trowel. The fact that the plants have several months in which to develop substance and stamina will make a vast difference to their flowering capabilities when the time comes. There are some excellent strains and varieties of wallflowers to be had now-a-days, some being dwarf and compact, others of taller, looser habit of growth. Choice of colour is a matter for personal decision having regard to the colours of the bulbous subjects with which they are to harmonise or contrast.

Almost as popular as wallflowers for spring bedding are the forget-me-nots. The remarks made about seed sowing and transplanting wallflowers apply equally well t these lovely blue-flowered plants, except that they enjoy a rather richer softer soil. There is wide v ’iation in types and strains of myosotis, to give the forget-me-not its botanical name and it pays well to secure seed of high quality. POLYANTUS AND DOUBLE DAISIES

Among other early - flowering plants which may be used very effectively with bulbs are Limnanthes Douglasi, Leptosyne Stillmani. Alyssum maritimum, and Erysimum linifolium. If seeds of these can be sown this month they may all be flowering simultaneously with Darwin tulips, and will remain in bloom for considerably longer. It is of great advantage if seedlings of these things can be potted in small sixties, instead of merely pricking them out. When the plants thus treated are transplanted from pots in autumn, without breaking the root ball, they go right ahead and make specially fine, early-flowering plants. Polyanthus and double daisies are valuable for spring gardening schemes. It would not be possible now to raise from seed young stock that would be strong enough to make a show next spring, but where some large, old plants are available, now is an excellent time to lift and shake out these plants, pulling them apart to single crowns with roots attached and planting them in a par-tially-shaded bed. Divisions of either kind of plant treated thus will make good material for bedding out either in April after the bulbs are disposed of, or durim: August and September.—L. I. Atris in Amateur Gardening.