CARROTS AND BEETROOTS

Otago Daily Times, Issue 23649, 5 November 1938, Page 24

CARROTS AND BEETROOTS

AN OUTLINE OF CULTURE One important point in the production of really first-class carrots is the selection of suitable varieties to fit certain soils For deep, light or sandy soils, the long-rooted kinds are best, or, rather, they will attain to perfection on such land, whereas on heavy, lumpy ground, they are comparatively poor. The owner of such land can, however, grow good carrots by planting short-rooted kinds that require no depth of soil. Another point of importance is not to sow -carrots on freshly-manured ground. They do better on land that was enriched for a previous crop, or that was deeply tilled and manured in the previous autumn. Deep cultivation Is essential, especially for the long-rooted varieties. Only under these conditions can they yield the long, smooth, well-formed roots so much admired for home use, and for exhibition. Fresh manure in contact with the roots, or a too heavy soil, will cause the misshapen and forked specimens, so disappointing to the grower Trenched ground will produce the finest roots and the heaviest crop. but. if trenching is not practicable, the ground must be dug as deeply as possible. ENSURING A SUCCESSION When making the final preparations for sowing carrots, the surface soil must be forked over and then raked down to a fine tilth. A light dressing of old soot, enough just to colour the ground, may be forked or raked in. while wood ash or ashes from the garden bonfires are other materials very beneficial to this crop. Where an' unbroken supply of carrots is desired, several successional sowings should be made. If a frame or a hotbed is available, the earliest sowing can be made quite early in June, followed by a small sowing on a sheltered border in the open in August or early September. The sowing for the main crop may well bp delayed until early October. This will provide roots for the winter and also thinnings for summer use. Finally, a sowing made in January will maintain a supply of young and tender roots, and also augment the winter' store SOW EVENLY

The drills should, for preference, run north and south. For the long-rooted kinds they should be a foot apart, but for the stump-rooted varieties nine inches will suffice. Sow thinly and evenly. This is facilitated by mixing the seed with a little dry and fine soil. The drills must be shallow, as a very slight covering is all that is required. So soon as the seedlings are clearly seen, the hoe should be used between the rows, and from the start the lines themselves must be kept free from weeds. Quite early—in fact, as soon as possible—the rows must be thinned but not to the full distance in the first instance. Bv a little management, it will be an easy matter during showery weather to draw tender young roots for the final thinning, and these for use will succeed the carrots grown in frames and on sheltered borders. Large carrots should be finally left nine inches apart in the rows but small kinds will do at four inches. The wireworm and the carrot maggot are the most destructive enemies. Good cultivation is the best antidote, together with early preparation of the ground As with most other crops, carrots should not be grown on the same land in successive seasons. Regular hoeing is the chief cultural detail. It is scarcely possible to hoe too often. Some first-rate carrots for early sowing are Blatchford's Early Model, Early Market, Champion Scarlet Horn and Scarlet Model. Reliable main-crop varieties are the well-known Scarlet Intermediate. Clucas's Red Giant, a fine variety for storing, while a novelty of great promise is Clucas's Red Column, which is coreless. Sutton's New Red Intermediate is also of very fine quality. For the January sowing stump-rooted or intermediate varieties should be chosen.

Beetroot requires much the same soil preparation as recommended for carrots. It has the same dislike for ground freshly manured, and yet must have a deep and rich root-run. It is a good plan to grow beet on plots that have been heavily manured the previous year. Successional sowings should be made, especially if small beets are wanted for the salad bowl. If a very sheltered border is available a few seeds may be sown in August or early in September. Another sowing should be made at the end of the latter month, while the main crop is held until October or even November. This last can be thinned gradually to provide young tender roots. Still further to extend the supply oi young roots, one or two small sowings can be made up to the end of January. The rather large seeds are easily spaced out, yet, at the same time, they must be sown thickly enough to allow for possible failures. A foot between the drills will be sufficient space for the long-rooted varieties, and nine inches will serve the globe or turniprooted. Cover with an inch and a-half of soil.

Use the hoe as early as possible, and regularly throughout the season. When hoeing beet, carrots, or —for that matter—any root crop, be careful not to bruise or lacerate the roots with the blade. Root crops usually stand up to drought very well if they are growing on deep and well-cultivated land, yet, even so, they may require a few good soakings in a very long drv swell. For summer use and salading. the small globe-rooted varieties should be chosen. These can finally be thinned to from four to six inches apart. The large main-crop kinds will need to be nine inches or even a foot apart in the rows.

Splendid main-crop beets are Dobbies's Purple. Carter's Perfection and Sutton's Blood Red. Globe varieties of great merit are Clucas's Empire Globe. Egyptian and Carter's Crimson Ball. Empire Globe is of fine colour, and free from the lightcoloured rings which spoil so many varieties.—" Cirencester." in Amateur Gardening.