THE AMATEUR’S GREENHOUSE

Otago Daily Times, Issue 23631, 15 October 1938, Page 24

THE AMATEUR’S GREENHOUSE

THE MODERN CINERARIA FROM SEED TO FLOWERING PLANT Cinerarias are divided into three distinct classes—the large-flowered or grandiflora type, comparatively dwarf and compact plants, with heads of very large flowers: the slellata or star group tall and graceful, with branching flower heads; and the intermediate cinerarias, best described as a compromise between grandiflora and stellata neat, graceful, and very pretty. Whether to grow one or all of these types is for the individual to decide. The cultural requirements are the same for all. There are. in addition to

these three great divisions, some other desirable forms which are more or less modifications of them, as, for instance, double-flowered grandiflora, Matador, Feltham Beauty, and Covent Garden. The two last-named are obtainable In several colours, and are of great decorative value. THE PRINCIPAL SOWING - The main sowing can be made during late October. If a long display is wished for, it should be followed by supplementary sowings in November. Some clean pots or pans should be drained thoroughly and filled with a light mixture of soil. Three parts loam to one part of good oak or beech leaf mould, with plenty of sand, the whole passed through a moderately fine sieve, will prove suitable. Granulated peat may replace leaf mould, if the latter is not easily obtainable, butcinerarias are markedly fond of leaf soil.

The seeds must be scattered thinly and evenly on a moist, level surface, and lightly covered with fine soil. They will germinate freely in a cold frame or cool greenhouse, if the pans are covered vrith glass, and shaded from strong sunshine. This latter *s an important contribution to success. The first cultural detail of importance is to prick off the seedlings as soon as they are large enough to handle. If allowed to become crowded they soon become weak and attenuated, and then they will never grow into strong and sturdy plants like we desire. THE SEEDLINGS Transplant the seedlings into boxes, and stand the latter in a frame or greenhouse, on a moist base and near the glass. A similar soil mixture to that provided for the seed will suffice for this first shift, and it will also serve, if of rather coarser texture, for the next remove into three-inch pots. The plants must be placed in these pots as soon as they meet in the boxes, and before they become the least bit crowded. Pot fairly firmly with the hands, and continue to keep the plants near the glass, giving them plenty of room. From the first potting onwards, each plant must be given ample space. Other matters of the greatest importance are plenty of air, without draughts, cool treatment throughout summer, and further potting as soon as it becomes necessary. Cinerarias grow very freely and rapidly, and, if a plant becomes starved, it recovers very slowly, If at all. WATERING AND POTTING Watering must be carefully done at all times. Cinerarias are easily grown and very accommodating plants, yet they do resent, more keenly than most Diants, extremes of wetness and dryness. The objective must be a uniform state. Rather than adopt any set system of potting on. it is better to consider the plants individually, and as soon as a plant requires more pot room attended to it at once. The final or flowering plots will be of six. eight or nine inches diameter, in accordance with individual requirements. The drainage must be clean and ample. Immediately over the crocks place a few leaves or a little turfy material, to prevent the finer soil seeping through to clog the drainage hole. For the final potting a much rougher compost should be used, consisting of two parts loam, one part leaf mould, with some sharp sand, old soot, bonemeal. and a small portion of dried cow manure. The bonemeal may be used at the rale of a five-inch potful to each ordinary barrowful of the mixture. Firm potting is essential, and a rammer must be used, also a lath to well work the soil round the side of the pot, but it is a mistake to make the soil exceedingly hard like a road Ample space must be left on the surface for the application of water During the summer months the plants are best accommodated in a cold frame. They must be spaced out so that sun and air can pass freeiy between ,them. They nan with advantage be sprayed lightly with clear water on warm days, and the lights may be entirely removed in favourable weather. A position a little shaded from the hottest rays of the sun should be selected. When the plants are well rooted in their flowering pots, they can be fed twice weekly with dilute liquid manure, or once a week with a good plant food, a teaspoonful of the latter to each plant. An occasional dose of dilute soot-water will promote health and growth, and the plants will appreciate a spray, now and then with weak, clear soot-water The most convenient method is to place some old soot in a bag, immerse it in a tub of water, and dilute as required. About the middle of April—the dale is governed, to some extent, by the locality—cinerarias must be placed in the greenhouse for the winter. Stage them near the glass, stand the pots on a moist bottom, ventilate freely, and a minimum night temperature of about 45 degrees. All feeding must cease when the (lowers commence to open. It is necessary to remember that these plants are verv sensitive to cold draughts. Cinerarias are especially liable to the attacks of greenfly Periodical weak fumigations will keep the pest yi bay. Red spider is sometimes troubiesome, but this is usually a sign of insufficiently moist surroundings. Mildew may be caused by draughts, or by a confined a'mosphere Any ailected parts should be dusted with flower of sulphur. Perhaps the worst trouble after greenfly is leaf miner. This is the work of the larvae of a small fly laying its eggs within the leaf, where they hatch and the tiny maggots eat their sinuous way under the skin of the leaf. Either crush them, or pick out with a needle or spray with a leaf-miner insecticide.