MY LADY’S DRESS

Otago Daily Times, Issue 23221, 19 June 1937, Page 26

MY LADY’S DRESS

A LETTER FROM LONDON Dear Phillida, —That New Zealand women can hold their own anywhere was yesterday proved by Mrs Frank Ziegler (who was Miss Margery Gray, of Wellington) when I met her at a London dress show. Quite the most lovely member of a smart audience, Mrs Ziegler wore under her black shorn lamb coat a charming frock of shining tree-bark satin, which had an entertaining plastron of white crepe, printed with flying flamingoes. An exuberant corsage of patent leather chrysanthemums and a black satin coal-scuttle toque, with rocketing tendencies, finished her distinguished ensemble.

The collection we saw was mainly interesting because of the designer’s recognition for the need of a special type of frock for kinema, late afternoon and informal wear. As that need is particularly felt in New Zealand, where late afternoon parties are frequent, bridge parties more so and the kinema practically the only form of public entertainment, I shall concentrate on the clothes which formed this part of the collection. An enchanting three-way ensemble was the one shown in my sketch and christened by the designer “ Cavalier.” We were first shown the hostess frock sketched at the right of my picture—a white organza blouse with billowing sleeves and a frilly lace-edged collar was worn under the severely cut black evening dress which formed the basis of the ensemble. An alternative “ way ” was to wear this dress, which

was made from a new, heavy silk persey with crushed surface interest, under an amusing bolero jacket, brilliant with sequins in horizontal stripes of vivid pink, china blue, green and gold. Sensational on the dance floor this outfit would not be 100 formal foi a bridge party, and there is, of course, no end to the number of little jackets which could be worn with it. A charming and appropriate kmeins frock was made from heavy-black manette with slim, cross-cut skirt and an unusual bodice arrangement. Gathered folds of the material lay horizontally across the shoulder to form short sleeves and yoke. Fastened at the back of the neck with minute covered buttons, they were further secured by wreaths of gold metal leaves encircling the upper arms close to the shoulder. With this went a pill-box hat of black pineapple straw with an intriguing spotted veil which' tightly swathed the eyes and was gathered to fall in picturesque cascade at the back. Mr Roland Morel, the dcsignei ot these frocks particularly stressed the unsuitability of wearing long skirts for informal occasions. Many of his late afternoon ensembles were ’’ight to go on to dinner afterwards rie achieved a pleasing and festive air by the skilful play of transparent materials against opaque ones. A seemingly innocent ensemble, a plain black frock worn under a bishop-sleeved, hip length jacket, when the jacket was removed turned a provocative back—the short sleeves of the frock and a deep "U" at the back were made from the same cob-web black lace that fashioned the tiny front yoke Many of his silk afternoon suits featured transparent blouses oil edition

and net —usually of the same colours as the suit or in the case of a printed material, an accent to the darkest shade in the print. These blouses were most often long-sleeved and becomingly shirred to outline the shape of the figure. With few exceptions the kinema and late aftexmoon frocks were all black. Bx-illiant colour accents were a noticeable feature. One black ensemble had a grege chiffon blouse with bands of emerald green and geranium red round the top of the slip and slotted through to tie in bows at the front. An unusual printed frock had a design of black lace on white, and was inset in squares across the shoulder yoke with handmade black lace of the same design as that in the print. One brown ensemble was clmstgned “Daniel in the Lion’s Den it had tiny rampant lions of pink, blue, white and green printed on if. Other unusual prints included a “Tudor Rose" design and a striking black and white skyscraper design christened “New York.” Hand-embroideries and hand-tuck - ings were a feature of this collection. Several frocks foretold a further shortening of skirts by transparent appliquework hems. Patent leather embroidery on belts, bodices and hemlines was smart and new.

Court gowns were hand-embroid-ered with sequins or glass beads. Ball and dinner dresses showed inspiring colour contrasts —vivid blue and green combined to make a cape for a wool chiffon gown. Pink, mauve, and green silk towelling encircled the waist of a grege silk jersey frock cut with floorlength. sun-ray pleated scarf that was pushed towards the back to form a cape. Dinner suits were mostly ankle-

length, and there was a tendency in the Jess formal dance frocks to lift the skirt in front above the ankle. Ihe most successful silhouette was the empire one —both for suits and frocks Rucking and bands across the bosom skirts that lilted tightly round the ribs and tinv bows on the bodice were features of this silhouette. One adorable dinner suit, with a long, tight, black skirt and a shirred, short-sleeved chiffon blouse tied with coloured bows, had the most attractive coat of the collection. Tt was tightly-fitting in the bodice and wide on the shoulder, and the sleeves, which were real leg-of-mutton. wore made of stiff silk printed in Paisley pattern. After the show 1 went back to Mrs Ziegler's charming fiat in Kensington, whore she showed me the Balinese paintings and wood carvings which she and her husband bought during their recent visit to the East. Mrs Ziegler has furnished her living room round a picture by the Belgian artist, Nasrael. matching and contrasting Jus “ greeny-blues ’’ in her covers and walls. , . ... Another New Zealander who with her husband and daughter, has mst moved into a flat in Kensington, is Mrs Rodney Thomson, formerly Miss Thomson, and is lucky in having some lovely old furniture belonging to her father-in-law to inspire her choice ot colour schemes. Mr and Mrs John Huttton, who aie doing so well with their commercial art have just taken a flat on Richmond Hill. They will move in in June, and Mrs Huttons parents. Mi Justice and Mrs Blair will stay with them there till thi.'ii return at ihe end of the year.

uncooked state, are even more unpleasant to hold than oranges and lemons. What can be done with citrus fruits in winter time? Marmalade is one solution, but. while it prolongs the edible life of the fruit from days to maybe years, it insults the fruit itself which asks to be eaten raw if it is to fulfil its natural function. Raw Juice from acid fruits destroys acidity in human beings, makes the blood sweet and clean, and dispels the bogeys of rheumatism that lurk in creaking joints. It supplies the system with the mineral salts for which it craves and without which perfect health is impossible; and it fortifies the body against the onslaught of in the summer there is sunshine to keep people well and fit, but in the winter such sunshine is lacking. That is why citrus fruits are so valuable m winter time: they take the place of sunshine, and, grown in heat and sunlight themselves, offer their essence in a palatable form to human beings.. The point about eating citrus fruits is to eat them in conjunction with the right foods. They do not mix well with starches and sugars at a meal; but with proteins (meat, eggs, cheese, fish, shellfish, game and poultry) and with all green and root vegetables except Potatoes and artichokes they are excellent. Or they may be had in conjunction with nuts, vegetables and milk —a meal that, for people suffering from acidity, will be ideal. The juice of a lemon , or an orange mixed with olive oil and taken at intervals by the teaspoonful will relieve a cough very quickly and can be given with impunity to children. Then, as everybody knows, there is no better early morning drink than a glassful of orange and lemon juice taken an hour before breakfast, or a grapefruit eaten unsweetened. To add sugar or glucose to raw citrus fruits is an insult even greater than to cook them. Vegetables, salads and raw fruits should form 80 per cent., of the diet, and the wise housewife will remember this fact and, when oranges and lemons are as plentiful as they are at present, will “ make hay while the sun shines.