NO HOPE OF SUCCESS

Otago Daily Times, Issue 22909, 17 June 1936, Page 9

NO HOPE OF SUCCESS

THE EVEREST EXPEDITION

DISCOVERY OF NEW ROUTE LONDON, June 15. A copyright message from Mr Ruttledge at Camp 1 on Monday says: — “ The expedition must now depart. Deep snow everywhere is rendering further effort useless, although Smythe and Wyn Harris discovered a route which 1 am convinced will be of groat value on a future occasion. Unhappily the attempt has been made in a season in which Everest has not given us a single chance. Seven climbers ascending the icefall on the west side of the North Col were prevented from examining the upper slope by clouds. Already then there was evidence that the monsoon was ao severe and the snow so deep that Everest was unclimbable this year. Smythe and Wyn Harris yesterday took advantage of a temporary lull and took a light camp to the point previously attained just out of reach of the avalanches pouring off the North Col. The rush of air from one nearly blew down their tent during the night. This morning they obtained a clear viev of the slopes to the crest, and although the snow was 100 dangerous to make an ascent, they are satisfied that, given certain conditions, a safer and more direct route could be made on this side. Smith-Windham and I, with porters, went halfway up the icefall and formed a similar opinion.”

UNPRECEDENTED CONDITIONS IMPOSSIBLE TO AVERT FAILURE LONDON, June 15. Sir Percy Cox, chairman of the Everest Committee, commenting on the telegram, says that the committee’s regret will be shared by Britons throughout the world, as the conquest of Everest had become a national enterprise on which all hearts were set. The expedition’s splendid composition and equipment justified every hope as far as human agencies were concerned, but the early monsoon and heavy snowfall, pieventing the reoccupation of the North Col. which was originally occupied with unusual case a week ahead of schedule, produced impossible conditions from which no previous expedition ever suffered.

The committee, telegraphing to Mr Ruttlcdge, and sympathising with his lamentable ill-fortune and recognising that no leadership or mountaineering skill could have averted the result, congratulated the members on emerging from the critical experiences without casualty.