WITH THE AZTECS

Otago Daily Times, Issue 22369, 17 September 1934, Page 11

WITH THE AZTECS

LIFE IN MEXICO

COMMUNISM AND ATHEISM TEN THOUSAND GENERALS •% To live in mud huts with descendants of the ancient Aztecs, to come unscathed through the fearful hurricane and floods which ravaged San Salvador, to _ stand on giant pyramids of a bygone civilisation where worshippers of the sun and the moon made obeisance to their gods, and to be gently but firmly told that missionaries were not wanted in Mexico, were some of the experiences which befell Mr Cyril Schroeder, of Invercargill, when he went as a representative of the Latin-American Prayer Fellowship to the great country which was conquered more than iOO years ago by. Hernando Cortes and his handful of Spaniards. To a Southland Times reporter Mr Schroeder, who has just returned h from America, gave much interesting information concerning the mode of life of the Indians in Mexico and the policy of the present Government, as well as describing the, relics of the strange and advanced civilisation which flourished under Montezuma. Mr Schroeder, it «may be mentioned, was undergoing missionary training in Auckland when he learnt of the great work being carried out in Central and South America by the Latin-American Praver Fellowship under the guidance of its director, Mr A. B. de Roos. Having a particular interest in Mexico, Mr Schroeder decided to seek a post there as a missionary and was very gratified when word came that he could commence work. He was told, however, that in all probability he would not be allowed to remain in the country longer than six months, since the Government viewed missionaries and the clergy with no friendly eyes—a prediction which .proved well founded. But in his six months' sojourn he was able to obtain a close insight into the living conditions of the Indians and into the aims of the Government. •ANTI-CHRISTIAN GOVERNMENT. The present Government, said Mr Schroeder. was determined to make Mexico a happy home for the native born and in its attempt to accomplish this Utopian task it gave foreigners short shrift. All whose residence in Mexico dated from later than 1927. were ordered to leave the country unless they were prepared to invest a sum equivalent to about £ISOO in an industry calculated to be of benefit to the State. Dissatisfied with the progress of the people under the 400 years' regime of the Catholic Church, the Government determined to throw off the fetters of all religions, and although its first sweeping strictures had to be modified somewhat its enactments reacted very unfavourably to all who were attempting to bring Christianity into the lives of the Indians. Many of these had shown themselves most eager to embrace Christianity in one of its Protestant forms, but were fast drifting to Atheism under the influence of the existing Government. There was a stipulation that there should be only one priest or minister to 50,000 people, though this was not strictly observed. War had also been waged by the Government on the wealthy hacienda owners, who in many cases had been shot down by soldiers and in all cases, forced to leave the country without receiving any compensation for the estates they forfeited. The agrarian, movement which caused this drastic closer settlement was really a form of Communism, though the authorities did not like to have such a term applied to the changes being forcibly effected. It had to be admitted that the Government was actuated by the best motives in its reforms, which were aimed at raising the standard of living and improving the education of the natives. A great deal of attention was being paid to sport in the schools, basketball and baseball being particularly encouraged. GENERALS TO BURN. The reporter smiled ratfier sceptically when Mr Schroeder mentioned that the new Government had dismissed from office 10,000 generals, but he was assured that this was true, generals being as plentiful in Mexico as oysters in Foveaux Strait. It was estimated that before the retrenchment each general would be lucky if he had 50 soldiers under his command. There were, of course, some " pukka" generals, men of high standing and considerable power, but the average was about as influential as an English ser-geant-major. There were approximately 40 different tribes of Indians in Mexico, each retaining its identity and customs And living in its own district. There Were the Aztecs, genuine descendants of % those ruled by Montezuma, the Otomi. the Tehuanas, the iWixi, the Bnpotic, the Trignis, and the Mistecs —to mention a few. They were, unle.ss influenced to the contrary by white men, disposed to be friendly to

visitors, and a tourist' could feel like a lord for a few pence, so willing were the Indians to perform such tasks as carry luggage and act as guides. Many of them were skilful with their hands and possessed artistic tastes, in proof of which Mr Schroeder showed the reporter some lacquer work and carving done by the men and weaving and basketwork v done by the women. BEAUTIFUL FEATHERWORK. Most striking of all was their featherwork with which they can produce the effect of a beautiful mosaic. The gorgeous plumage of the tropical birds afford infinite variety of colour and the designs would not disgrace artists of European fame. In Mexico Sunday _is the principal market day, when Indians from far and near come into towns and cities, purchase a small space on the pavement from the municipal authorities, squat on their heels and offer their wares for sale. It is mostly the women who carry the burdens to market and who do the selling. In one section of the plaza there will be the vendors of fruit, in another purveyors of fish, and so on. Almost anything can be bought_ and the saleswomen are models of patience, being prepared to sit all day in the hopes of making a few pence. ; In the Indian home the place of bread is taken by "tortillera," A pancake-like affair made principally from maize. Instead of a baking board the housewife uses a stone utensil,' the same material being employed for a rolling pin. A flat slab like a slate is placed over the fire and on this the tortillera is baked. Beans and chillis are other staple articles of diet, there being little variety in the menu.

Indian villages are overrun with dogs and the parasites which prey on them. A diner in a native restaurant is liable to have at least six dogs curled round his feet while he eats, each animal expecting morsels froni the dish. The proprietors would think a visitor was insane were he to request that the dogs should be removed. They are part and parcel of the place. A night spent in one of the adobe huts is likely to be a sleepless one, the hardness of the floor being not the only contribution to insomnia. I NATIVE HOME BREW. Growing in "Mexico are giant, aloes which are put to a great variety of uses by the natives. Prescott, in his " Conquest of Mexico," refers to this wonderful plant which he said "afforded from its bruised leaves a paste from which paper was manufactured; its leaves further supplied an impenetrable thatch for the more humble dwellers; thread, of which coarse stuffs were made, and strong cords were drawn from its tough and twisted fibres; pins and needles were made of the thorns at the extremity of its leaves; the root when properly cooked was converted into a palatable and nutritious food; and its juice was fermented into an intoxicating leverage of which the natives, to this day, are excessively fond." Mr Schroeder said that Prescott's reference to the native beverage, known as pulque, still held good. The aloes took the place of grape vines, thousands of Indians being engaged in the industry. The juice of the aloe was drawn off into big gourds by suction from the lips and was then poured into barrels strapped to the sides of donkeys. Aloes were " milked " in this way for a period of about three weeks, after which they ran dry and died, to be replaced by a young plant. The juice was transferred from the barrels into pigskins, where it was allowed to ferment, reaching maturity in three days. It was highly intoxicating, had a nauseating smell, but was drunk by the Indians so freely as to be a menace. IN A HURRICANE. Banished from Mexico, Mr Schroeder decided to see something of the Central American republics before returning to New Zealand. On June 7 he was in San Salvador, and on that night the district was visited by one of the worst storms in history, as was graphically recorded in the cables from the stricken city, fortunately the New Zealander was installed in one of the most substantial hotels in San Salvador, or he might have had a highly unpleaant experience. As it was he mcrelv passed a very perplexing and uneasy night, imagining that the thunder, lightning, wind, and rain were part of the rainy season. When next morning he saw the holocaust he realised that something untoward had hit the city. There were wrecked buildings everywhere, and some of the principal streets were piled high with soi] which had been swept by surging waters from coffee plantations nearby. Under the debris were many victims of the disaster, workmen being engaged in the task of removing the earth so that the bodies could be recovered. Martial law was proclaimed in the city, and anyone who ventured out into the streets after 9 p.m. was liable to be mown down bv machine guns, there being several cases of death in this way owing to disobedience of the regulations. Mr Schroeder respected the curfew, and is now back in Invercargill richer in experience by his visit to the interesting lands lying near the Caribbean Sea.