NEW GARDENS
At this time of the year it is usual for us to receive many inquiries from amateur gardeners who have moved recently to new houses, and are puzzled as to the best course to adopt with the garden during the first season. It is a problem deserving of most careful consideration, for mistakes made at the outset may be very difficult to rectify later on. In particular, weeds and soil pests may prove an immense handicap to success if both are r.ot dealt with in an efficient manner right from the start.
The best general advice that can be eiven to all such inquirers is, not to establish any permanent feature until the autumn. The summer months may then be'devoted to a war on weeds, and pests. During this period the gardener who uses his powers of observation, will learn a great many interesting and valuable facte about his' garden which will stand . him in good stead when the serious work of laying out is taken in hand. He will, for example, become familiar with the peculiarities of his soil (which is rarely the same in texture or character throughout even a small garden); will learn much about the nature of the subs6il, often a most important factor in-garden planning, and will gather, useful data about pre-, vailing winds, draughts, and other matters that may radically affect the positions chosen for various features.
'No one would relish the prospect of contemplating a bare plot of ground for several months on end. However, there is no cause for this, for quick-growing annuals and summer bedding plants will supply an abundance of flowers from December to May. Clarkias, .godetias, cardinal' poppies, eschscholtzias, scarlet flax, calliopeis, annual caudvtutt, nasturtiums, and a wealth of other lovely plants in a wonderful range of colours and forms may be 'raised without difficulty by the veriest tyro, it is only necessary to turn the soil over with a spade, allow it to lie for a week or 10 days, break down the surface with a fork to as fine a tilth as possible, and sow the seeds broadcast where the plants are to flower. Subsequent treatment is of the simplest, consisting mainly of thinning out to prevent, overcrowding, and regular removal of faded flower heads. These temporary flower beds may be arranged near the dwelling house so that there is a 'cheerful prospect from the windows. But they' must not be allowed to monopolise too much, ground, or the main,object of delaying permanent laying, out —namely, war on soil pests,and weeds —will be defeated. The former may be effected by deep digging,', the application of a reliable soil steriliser, and frequent hoeing or surface forking throughout the summer. Digging, forking, and hoeing will also reduce weeds greatly, while a fourth possibility, and one worthy of more general, adoption, is the cultivation of a smother crop," which will be dug in later as a green manure. For this purpose there is nothing to beat mustard. It grows readily in almost any., soil, matures rapidly, will smother all save the most persistent perennial weeds, and is soft enough to be dug in easily. It should be turned into the soil when it is in full flower and before it has started to produce seed. Though mustard does not enrich the soil chemically, as do some members of the pea family, it will add to its humus content, and so Tender it more serviceable for the cultivation of choice fruit, flowers, and vegetables. Trenching will prove the easiest and most effective method of turning in the mustard. At the same time roots of perennial weeds may be collected and burned, so that the ground is left thiroughly clean. —Amateur Gardening.
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Bibliographic details
Otago Daily Times, Issue 22284, 9 June 1934, Page 17
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622NEW GARDENS Otago Daily Times, Issue 22284, 9 June 1934, Page 17
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