A LOVELY WINTER FLOWER

Otago Daily Times, Issue 21668, 11 June 1932, Page 3

A LOVELY WINTER FLOWER

hints for the busy amateur. It is very easy, when writing cultural details of any plant,' to be emphatic on certain requirements, without remembering that, in all probability, the reader is not able" to carry out the very thing that is stated to be so essential. How very natural, for example, to write “syringe early in the afternoon ” and “ pull down the blinds if the sun bursts out," when on both occasions the person concerned is toiling in some distant city or workshop. Recognising that thousands of the best amateur gardeners are in this category, an attempt is herewith made to answer the question that so many of them ask, *■ Gan one succeed with cyclamens, even though they have to be left from early morning to evening.” For such, then, is this article written, and, if expediency necessitates departure from the orthodox, hoped that it will assist both the plants ami the grower through those unattended hours. A few general rules must bo followed. It i.s useless to attempt to grow these lovely plants through the winter in an unhcated house or frame, and the first con-

sideration must be the heat it'is possible to give during the coldest weather. If the greenhouse can be maintained at a temperature of 50 degrees .all, any time, then it will be safe to go ahead. The warmth, too, must be even, for the cyclamen is very impatient of extremes, either in temperature or atmosphere, and the plants soon show their- resentment in stunted growth or weakness. Watering must always be done with the greatest care. Wait till the plant has nearly absorbed all the moisture in the soil, and then thoroughly soak it, leaving it to dry out again ere the next watering takes place. This may be once a day in summer, but only once a week in winter. The cyclamen likes to grow in moist conditions, and anything in the nature of an arid and dry atmosphere will assuredly bring trouble. Steady temperatures, careful watering, and a moist atmosphere are, then, the main essentials. Sowing usually takes place in the early autumn, though where sharp heat is available, if is left till July by some. For the amateur February is undoubtedly the best month, as the respiting plants are easier to handle in the spring, being larger and stronger. More than that, they can be raised without any artificial heat at that season, the conserved warmth of the sun being sufficient to germinate the seed! Once they are big enough, the seedlings are transferred to other boxes, and grown through the winter in a temperature of £0 degrees, or, if possible, a little more. At this time' of the year, then, the plants will be waiting for their first, move into small pots. The compost must be one that will allow the free passage of water. To ensure this, if the loam used is on the heavy side and inclined to be sticky, add some broken brick or mortar rubble. Do not be afraid of- using plenty of sand if rubble is not available. The leaf mould, too, must be on the fresh side and as flaky as possible. If the soil still looks too fine, and is lacking in fibre, break up some peat and mis with it. Remember that the roots of these plants are fleshy, and will travel about much more quickly in a coarse mixture than one which errs on the fine side. A coarse compost will allow the passage of air to the roots. Frequently, amateurs forget that the bottom as well as the top of the plant needs air. When potting, only the lower half of the corm must be in the soil, leaving the top half quite free. To the beginner this will look altogether wrong, but if it is not done, the foliage will rot off as it grows, and very soon the .whole plant will die. Do not press the soil very firmly Into the pots. Or there will be a danger of the com-, post, becoming too hard or firm. So far there will have been no need to worry about shading the plants frorh hot sunshine, but by the middle of October shading plays an important part in our endeavours. Assuming that all the plants are in their first pots, a moist growing atmosphere must be aimed at, and this can only be assured by some form of shading. For those who have to leave their houses early in the day it is useless to suggest blinds. There is, however, one alternative, namely, to, put on one of the advertised permanent shadings, such as “ Summer Cloud.” *■ Before leaving the house in the morning see that any plant needing it is watered.. Follow up this by thoroughly damping the staging on which the plants stand, and throwing a few canfuls on _to the floor. If, however, the morning is wet, there will be no need, to do this. _ Given such treatment, with plenty of air on hot' days, the cyclamens will soon respond by filling the pots with roots.. The plants will then be ready for their next move. This will be to their final pots, which may be either of six-inch or four-and-a-half-inch diameter. The soil for this, move will need to be a' little heavier. This means that leaf mould must be more sparingly used. If able to obtain old rotten manure it will help considerably. Failing this, it is wise to add a little «f a good compound fertiliser. Once they are growing freely again, there is no better place for them than in a cool frame. The man who must leave them all day will be wise if he plunges the pqtg in fibre or ashes- to keep the roots cool, though he must also learn the greater art of Watering. When plants are plunged they never dry out to the extent they do when on staging. —J. S. D., in Amateur Gardening.