NOTES FOR WOMEN.

Otago Daily Times, Issue 21431, 4 September 1931, Page 15

NOTES FOR WOMEN.

y PERSONAL AND SOCIAL. ";f By Philuda.; The Duchess of York'adds to her many offices that of Commandant-in*Chief of the Nursing Division of the St. John Ambulance Brigade (says a writer in*an English paper). . At the forthcoming commemoration service, her Royal Highness has consented to lead the procession of Nursing - Divisions into Westminster Abbey. This is in connection with the centenary of the revival of the. Order of St. John in this country. St. John's is the oldest order of chivalry, predating that of the Garter and of the Knight Templars. It was founded at Jerusalem early in the twelfth century, and was an outcome of the Poor Brothers of the Hospital of St. John, who had tended the Crusaders. "' Writing from London last month, Miss Winifred Gardner states that she has 1 been having a very enjoyable time since her arrival in England at the end of May, notwithstanding the prevalence of wet weather. Visits to many places of historic interest in and about London proved very fascinating; and she was delighted tS be able to attend the military tattoo .at' Aldershot; the R.A.F. flying display at •Hendon, and therftennis championship at Wimbledon. She had also 'Portsmouth, Bournemouth, and the Isle of Wight,, arid was fortunate to see Over' the Empress 'of: Britain and the Olympic while 'these magnificent vessels were in dock at Southampton. What proved of most enjoyment tp her. however, were the opportunities'afforded h er iof hearing first class orchestras in tho Albert and Queen's Halls,'London, and such singers as Gigli and Chaliapine. During August Miss Gardner is to visit: Scotland with her aunt, Mrs Frank W l ' kl ?}- son, and on her return to London will commence her studies at the Royal Academy of Music. , PARIS FASHIONS MANNEQUIN PARADE ARTHUR BARNETTp LTD. The pendulum' of. fashion continually Bwings to and fro, endowed as it were with perpetual motion.--Its movement has been kept going by the dress creators, those inimitable Frenchmen,v|nd, Frenchwomen who stand supreme .i ji^their creative art. One cannot even>fal(Bard a guess at what period these gods" and gOdesses of fashion will deign to halt the pendulum's oscillation. It may be at the nineteenth century or it: may be at the fifth, or it may be at several points en route. Whenever it is, we humble followers of fashion must content ourselves with waiting and watching for the moment when these rulers release the results of their manipulations. We do know, however, that these fashion experts are always ambitious to add or to hide where Nature has been meagre and to adorn without concealment where :a: perfect figure has been created. And because of this we are content to wait and finally to accept what they may offer us. Mere man may laugh or mock at us and tell us that beauty requires no adornment, hut we reply that beauty embellished to suit the individual, following yet declining,-slavishly to obey, attains its greatest triumph and, anyhow, La Belle Dame might as'well be dead as out of fashion. Needless to say, with one side of the question behind the feminine mind there was a very-large attendance each day this week to witness the mannequin parade which took; ; place in Arthur Barnett's salon. . A mental .'photograph of the gowns and suits displaced impressed one with the idea that of fashion had borrowed past—shedding something there antkMtling something here—intermingled wsߧjfiew ideas, but through it all had imgfce|)tiated all with originality. The severerjiamSplicity of Georgian times was noticeable in the tailored suits, and the chic millinery, the bizarre beauty ,of Louis XIV and the early Victorian- periods were depicted.; in the evening and dinner gowns, and "the practicability of modern times found an echo in the sports and other daytime creations. Emanating from such artists as "Paton." " Molyheux," " Lelong,'' •■ ".Baiaioque," ; ''Avadi^'fe^TOTra, 3 the lovelyijtriodels of gowns and;ihUlihery displayed'; by the mannequins' of Messrs Arthur Barnett's, Ltd;,:cbuld not but be found'alluring and desirable, Especially so >whdri the exceptionally.low price of each garment was announced. So choice was the collection, so varied and beautiful in design, colouring, and faerie, that it would be impossible to particularise, but worthy of special mention were the charming models, displayed on the form of one mannequin suitable . for matrons for all occasions.—s/9/31. . .

PLUS FOURS RDR WOMEN While Jane Regny urges the mode of plus fours for boating, and makes them in one of her new ribbed jersey weaves to wear with pull-over vestees instead of jackets, Alan George demonstrates the style* in tweed, the softest checked tweeds in a summer weight, with short tailored jackets to match. They are this young English . designer's golfing speciality, and he thinks' that properly conceived plus fours can form the ideal sports wear for women. There is no doubt that they look graceful in repose tucked up to fall like a skirt at midcalf length. • - , THE PYJAMA CRAZE. ..- . One conjures up truly feminine editions in a range of coloured shantungs and linens; also, in a summer capacity, indicating contrasting coloured jackets above white, black, or brown plus fours. It is a mode that works on the imagination and, though it might 'encourage criticism, it seems full of merit for young golfing enthusiasts, and brings another skirtless fashion into line for summer sports. _ . 1 One-piece pyjama frocks, divided skirts and sun-back frocks have encroached upon the pyjama craze, which some of the Paris designers claim has now reached its limit. Nevertheless,.the smart summer sands wijl be thronged with more colourful specimens than ever this year. Tailored beach jackets are a recent addition to: pyjamaland, and strike a plain coloured theme with black and white and red and', white .'spptted trousers. In this instance; the short sleeved jacket of crepe de chine' is entirely covered with pin-tucks. White sailor hats conform with bands of ribbon"! to thatch the suits. The coloured turban cfowri>:and large white detachable brim still vies with the large type of sun hat as one of the most popular for beach headwear.- ~ s ,-.■>■; >: •.'"''-' FISHING .SUITS. Jersey and' wool crepe is the hew mood in beach .pyjamas, and they both look excellent in white with sun-backs detailed and coloured ..'or plaid scarves that girdle gipsy-wise round waistlines. Chantal's hew white jersey pyjama is evolved oh conservative lines with a sleeveless white jersey tuck-in blouses, and a sealing-wax red lainage jacket tailored on double-breasted Jines. .. It looks So does' heir' fishing model;'which is particularly,'smart and practical in a mixture of butcher blue duck and rustycoloured'.' -lihien. .The trousers in the blue are. fairly", wide, so that they can be easily rolled up to the knees, and they fasten with large buttons across the waist line; in "front over'.a beige ; filet net blouse. This.is revealed when the, rust-coloured linen jacket's zipper slip fastener, is opened. This. ..shows ; a Chinese J kimono influence: except;for the sleeves, which are set into the.;armhple,\ and the combination of the colours and materials 1 is an inspiration. Shantung is another favourite medium for beach modes, but apart from this and jersey, one can get just as many, pyjama thrills out or,'cotton' fabrics. '■?■• Divided skirts, pyjamas, and short trousers are all included. in the summer sports game, but the latest novelty is a suit with plus-fours, tailored jacket, and shirt blouse (states a Paris fashion expert, writing to the Daily Telegraph). Both Jane Regny and Alan George have started the ball of this new phase rolling, and it has every appearance of catching on with the younger generation. Mountain holidays ought to see it launched' this summer for walking and golfing, but it is essentially a country outfit, which looks neat and not at all extreme,' certainly not nearly so extreme as the shorts many young women adopted on country tramps last.^summer. Although the style mirrors the masculine trend, it seems to become a more appropriate mode for the female than the male. These suits are really only reminiscent'of the bicycle costumes worn' many years ago.

POST-GUIDING FOR THE ' GUIDER By a Post. Guider. "Oh, are you a Girl Guide* captain? Isn't it rather awful? I'm sure I should die if I had to manage a score or so of little monkeys of that age!" When the friend who made these remarks heard that I had a dozen little invalid girls instead of "a score or so of little monkeys" to look after she did not seem to think it any the less difficult. Speaking from experience in both active and post companies, I don't think it is, but the qualifications required in the Guider are entirely different. In the first place the Post Guider must have plenty of spare time. A business girl can run an active company, but she could not spare the time to write those delightfully personal letters to her Guides each month and make the " picture letters" which are so popular in the company. And even should she be able to manage all this, there would still be the novel competitions and " good turns"' to think of, and an afternoon set apart each week for visiting Post Guides in the neighbourhood. It is obvious that when a company is run by post the Guider must have a flair for writing. If she can illustrate her " picture letters," her company is a lucky one. The active Guider should be a good disciplinarian, but among Post Guides the question of discipline does not occur. The ideal post captain is a sympathetic, yet jolly person, with a vivid imagination. The crippled Guides want a real friend for their captain, someone in whom they can confide, someone who inspires them to laugh and make the best of things, someone who can think of new and interesting things for them to do. Just one more thing is required in a Post Guider—the love of service. To put time, thought, and love into the work naturally means a certain amount of self-sacrifice. It is, however, a sacrifice which is more than repaid by the ready response of the children. Guiding is a wonderful thing to them, even though it is only brought by the postman, and a good Guider can have a very real influence in the lives of her invalid Guides. BACK BEAUTY The back, which is conspicuous in every style of evening gown worn this summer, is seldom as well tended as the rest of the skin (states a London beauty expert). Small blemishes which occur on the back are generally due to insufficient rubbing in the bath, which fails to stimulate the circulation. For thorough back cleansing a bag made of Turkish towelling and filled with a powder containing almonds is supplied. Friction caused by rubbing, with a fairly coarse bath towel is helpful; Afterwards apply a little olive oil. Hard water destrovs the beauty of the back and arms as surely as that of the face. To counteract its drying tendency a' water softener and ' perfume combined should be used. Only one tablespoonful required in the bath. BAKED PUDDINGS; Baked puddings are different when you want to surprise the family, bake them one of these puddings. Baked marmalade pudding: Take Jib of breadcrumbs, s\b flour, 2 teaspoons of baking powder, 6oz suet, 3 tablespoons marmalade, i teaspoon of ground ginger, 5 dessertspoons sugar, 1 egg, milk to mix. Sieve the flour, ginger, and baking powder. Chop the suet finely and add with the breadcrumbs and sugar. When well mixed, put the marmalade in the centre. Beat up the egg and add some milk as required, and mix all, together. Put into a greased pie dish and bake in a moderately hot oven for about one and a-half hours. - Brown bread pudding: Take Jib 6tale brown bread, 2oz flour, 6oz suet, Jib glace cherries. Jib raisins, 2oz candied peel, 1 lemon, jib sugar, some grated nutmeg, 1 egg. Put the bread into a basin, cover with water, and leave to soak until soft. Then strain off the water and squeeze all the. moisture out of the bread. Turn the soaked bread into a dry basin and break it up with a fork. Wash stone and chop the.raisins, cut. up the peel., and. cherries. Chop the suet finely. Add the flour to the bread, also some grated nutmeg, lemon rind, sugar, and prepared fruit. Mix all well together, then whisk the egg and stir in. Put into a greased pie dish and bake in a moderately hot oven for about one hour and a-half. Brazil pudding: Take 9oz of flour, 3oz of shelled Brazil nuts, soz margarine. 1. teaspoon of baking powder, Jib of sugarj |lb of apricot or-marrow jam,, I egg, milk; Grind two-thirds of the nuts to a powder and mix with the.jam. Rub the margarine well into the flour. Gut the remainder of the nuts into small pieces ..and add ,to -the flour, with the sugar and baking powder arid mix all together. Beat up the egg and add with some milk as required, and mix well. Grease the pie dish and put half the mixture in it. Then add the jam and ground nuts and spread over evenly. Now pnt on the, remainder of the pudding mixture. Bake in a moderately hot oven for about one hour and a-half. Coconut pudding: Take i!b flour, Jib margarine, 1 teaspoon baking ', powder, 3oz castor sugar, 2oz desiccated coconut, 1 egg, milk to mix,.Jib of apricot jam. Grease a pie dish and put the jam in the bottom of it. Rub the margarine into the flour, then add the sugar and the eocpanut. Whisk up the egg, and add to the dry ingredients with some milk if required. Beat well, then stir in the baking powder mixed with a spoon of flour. Turn into the prepared.dish, dredge on-some castor sugar and desiccated. coconut (extra t to that given in the recipe), and, bake in a moderately hot oven for about threequarters of art hour. Serve in the dish, with some more apricot jam (heated). :

TRY THESE

Dainty Snaps.—Brandy Snaps: One lb of flour, one pint of treacle, two tablespoons of ginger, two tablespoons of carbonate of soda, 4oz each of butter, lard, and sugar, one cup •of sour milk. Melt butter and beat in sugar, treacle and :ginger; add milk when the soda has dissolved, then beat in flour (if required add a little more flour), roll out and cut into cakes. Bake in a slow oven until snappish. Ginger snaps: Half a cup of lard, half a cup of butter, one cup of brown sugar, one cup of water', one tablespoon extract ginger and cinnamon, one quart flour, 1J tablespoons of baking powder. Rub to a smooth paste lard, butter, and sugar, then rub in flour and powder sifted together; mix into a firm dough with flour and extracts. Roll out the dough thinly on a flowered board, cut into shapes, and bake in a steady oven for eight minutes with an almond on top each shape. Oatmeal Dainties.—Oatmeal shortbread; Take two cups flaked oatmeal, one small cup sugar, one small cup coconut, Jib melted butter. Mix dry ingredients together, Add melted butter, flatten with a spoon into square dish, and bake slowly until a light brown. _ Gut into squares when cold. Munehies: Take two cups rolled oats, three-quarters of a cup of flour (plain), Jib butter, threequarters of a cup of sugar, two tablespoons boiling water, one tablespoon treacle, half a teaspoon soda. Mix dry ingredients, melt butter, water and treacle, add soda and add to dry ingredients. Bake slowly in spoonfuls on oven tray until light brown. Date crackers: Put lib stoned dates, one cup of sugar, and half a cup of cold water into a saucepan and boil for a minute or two, add a squeeze of lemon juice. Cream one cup butter and half a cup of brown sugar, add 2J cups rolled oats and 2J cups flour and mix bv hand. Moisten with half a cup of warm water in which half a teaspoon of bicar. soda has been dissolved. Roll out mixture, spread half with dates, cover with the other half of the dough and bake in a moderate oven for 40 minutes. Cut into fingers. French Pancakes. —Ingredients. Two ounces of flour,.2oz of butter, 2oz of castor sugar, about four tablespoons of jam, two eggs, half a pint of milk. Method: Heat the piilk in a stewpan. cream the butter and sugar together until smooth, beat in the eggs and stir in the flour lightly. Now add the warm milk, which will slightly curdle the mixture, beat well, then cover and let it stand for one hour. Have ready six buttered plates or -large saucers, put an equal quantity of batter into each, bake quickly until the batter rises, then more slowly for about 10 minutes. Spread five of them with jam, which should be warm, place > them on the top of each other, with the plain pancake, and dredge . well with castor sugar. Serve quickly.